Im a 30 something living on the east coast of the US. I make videos of just about anything but for the most part this channel is for airsoft and firearms.
FYI, I found if you put that blower air on the back side of these compressors to "assist" the bulit in fan it cools way better. Blowing in front like that cancels both. I would mount that blower direct to cage on back at like 4 points with zip ties and remove the duct. Try it you will be surprised.
thanks, check out the more recent video I have about this pump. I changed my process a bit to keep it cooler and prolong it's service life. a proper moisture separator is pretty important I think. I wouldn't use the one that came with it anymore
Your set up is unnecessarily too complicated to put in place Looks expensive and time consuming You don’t need all that to be in the safe and efficient Zone Air flow in the exterior does cool down faster than cold water flowing in the compressor head
I see an waaaaay overkill set up Just immerse the pump into a cool water bucket filled with ice and run the pump 5 minutes before starting the compressor Then monitor your compressor body temperature I’m literally doing it as I speak The temperature will never go higher than 47 degrees Celsius I’m doing it in my garage
I fail to see how overkill is a bad thing when trying to maximize the lifespan of a 4500psi pump. if that works for you that's great but I get temps higher than that on the top cylinder and the fan helps keep it cool. also it takes awhile to fill three large bottles and I only have so much ice.
Oh, here's one for all you geniuses out there. Find an old working refrigerator that works. Drill 3 holes in the side of it One for power cord. One for air intake. Run a tube for fresh air to outside. Then, finally, one for line to tank-gun being filled. Put compressor above the water container. Set refrigerator as low as possible with freezing water in tube. See if that keeps everything cool enough. Just a thought.
Mine seized on the crank so i machined it to fit a bearing and it runs way quieter and cooler now. I also added a countertop icecube maker that was modified into a chiller and its mint!
@@pootinhammerhad it about a month or so but i used the wrong oil and its an aluminum piston arm on a hardened steel crank shaft so the heat gauled up and seized. I also added a solid state relay cuz the factory one was arcing alot
Not going to lie, I want to do something very dumb with these compressors. I wan to use them for compressed natural gas. The active cooling seems to be the way to go. Would it struggle with large tanks at 300 psi, such as a propane tank with a liquid volume of around 25 gallons? How about a welding gas tank at 2200 psi? How long do you think it would take to fill something like that?
I don't know enough about the mechanics and material compositions to know how 8t would behave compressing a gas into liquid but 300 psi would be child's play for this, 2200 might be pushing it. depends on how the seals tolerate compressing a gas that will become liquid at the end of the stroke and I'd imagine the heat generated and the danger of escaped gas igniting from sparks in the motor make that pretty dangerous.
@@pootinhammer It would stay a gas, NG needs to be at -450 f to turn to a liquid, no amount of pressure will make it liquify at room temperature. As a pure gas would 2200 psi work well?
Why not are you not drying the intake air to keep the entire system "dry". Sucking the intake air through molecular sieve or silica gel should remove a great deal of the humidity!
DONT BUY THOSE TUXING Steel dessicant tubes... I bought the same setup. It nearly broke my GX compressor. I never had water come out of any of the gold painted TUXING "WATER REMOVER." There are compressors under $400 with oil/ water remover. Also, there are many ways to get the humidity of your room before you fill you pcp gun. Google: "get my room humidity free"
Please explain how the addition of a water remover set up could possibly cause your compressor to break. If a $400 compressor comes with a moisture trap I can almost guarantee that it doesent work. those small tubes stuffed with cotton do not remove moisture, they might catch some oil though.
Great idea with that check valve. yeah the best way to get maximum longevity out of one's tanks regardless of what they are made out of is to only compress the driest of dry air. Nice vid, just found your channel and will sub.
I've tried that and while it is effective, spraying it is slightly more effective and I don't leave it unattended while in use so I prefer the spray since I'm watching it anyway
If you are asking about my add-on regulator then No, it doesn't matter because I can turn it on or off at will without removing it from the tank. It's probably better to bleed the line before unscrewing the regulator but also it doesn't really matter It will just bleed the air as it's unscrewed. The connection to the tank has a screw That pushes the tank pin so you release that first then unscrew the regulator to waste less air
Cut the barrel down so the extensions not rediculously long #1, #2 open the blanks, insert a 40grain .22 airgun slug inside, crimp shit, then throw a bunch of foam rings around a 22lr barrel and inert that into the aluminum barrel thing. You only need 4-6in of bb gun barrel and 14in of 22cal barrel to get enough from the bb to set off the cartridge and 22lr tends to max out speed and power between 12-16in long barrels. My buddy threw a 38grajn in a blank out a similar bb gun usibf 14in barrel at 2400fps. Double the speed of a 22lr and more akin to a 22magnum, since your using a 22lr barrel to its threaded and will be usable and accurate
Why aren't u throwing a tube from the hole in the open chamber that sends the air out when firwd all the way to the end of the rimfire? You could make it hit hard enohgh to explode a rimfire qith 4.5-5in of tube kr barrel. Meaninf you could cut your bbgun bareel down to 6.5in then throw on 14in of 22lr and yove got a badass gun especially if you make it braak barrel so u can slide a new 22lr in a drop a ne bb in pretty quick. The full and semi auto bbgubs would work better u cut the barrels down and shit have a 14-16in 22lr barrel. Then have a grav fed 22mag there. and a little finger hole u can pullback on which pulls the spent round back out of the barrel and pver a open hole having the spent round fall out. The main problem worh these is ejection which makes mags a problem. Semi autos will not getin the way pf the 22lr carr and barewl ans bw far enouh to be strong enough tp set them off n go boom. By pulling the round out the next grav fed round fals into place and pushing the finger lever forwars inserts the next round. You could probably take $50 and a couple hours to prgram spme motors to operare it autonomously making it semi auto.
ported barrel, tru glo glodot pro bead. it's a hollow tube with the fiber optic Brad at the end, helps block the dot from view of your other eye when shooting with non dominant eye.
Now I see why hardly anyone gets into pcps out of ragular working people you gotta have funds or this hobby will lead you into a bunch of frustrations like me pump broke air venturi wont fix delays im out of air, This is what kept me shootin my gamo breakbarrel sold that cuz it was not it, No one will get into airguns unless they really get out of thair way no one accedently one day goes ohh I want a pcp airgun an goes out an buy all that shit, Nope this is the shit that detters 90% of people from those pcps.
Look at all that hastle man pcps are such a hastle I swear all this compressor pump shit I was worried about kept me away from them pcps lotta cost lotta hastle, My pump broke now I gotta research all this shit AHHHGGG damn pcp airguns man this hobby could get annoyin
no it was a random cheap part. literally just a male 1/8 foster with a small spring and ball inside. you'll find them easily on ebay or Amazon probably
Wow !! That’s a crazy amount of support and baby sitting on the air compressor. I’m looking for a way to recharge my cylinders for PCP. I have a fiber wrap cylinder but the local dive shop doesn’t want to fill it anymore. 🤷🏼♂️ So now I’m doing research for my own system..Your system is impressive, however I hope to find something a little more self-sustaining…
yeah it's alot of work keeping one of these cheap compressors in good shape but alot more expensive to have a true plug n play system. I wouldn't trust any of the other sub $500 compressors even if they claim to scrub all the water out and keep cool. none of them really have true water separators or decent cooling on their own. look into Alkin compressors if you've got the money for it.
Your tank carrier is genius! Only thing I would suggest is putting castors or wheels on the bottom segment, so you can roll it around to wherever you need it. So, sounds like you might recommend the Yong Heng compressor. I'm a brand new air gunner, so I'm in the market for a compressor.
I'd absolutely reccomend it. it takes work to make sure you're always treating it gently but if you do it will last you years. it's pretty well built compared to other budget options.
@@pootinhammer Can you speak a bit about your water traps? Are they identical? Who makes them? Did you plumb them together yourself, or did they come that way? Do you have to re-pack them? Sorry for the many questions, just trying to save some money. $2000 or $4100 is the price for what seems to be a good compressor. Trying to avoid that. Thanks.
@@daveyJ213 The water traps came already attached to each other and mounted to a small bracket The 1st stage is not serviceable and does not need to be opened nor should it be the 2nd stage contains a sleeve with molecular sieve and carbon in it to pull the very last bit of water vapor out of your air and that can be changed out whenever you want to although it's not really necessary unless you are compressing air intended for breathing then you would definitely want to replace the carbon every once in a while so it smells and tastes clean. As far as a brand name goes I can't really give you any information on that they are very generic looking and don't have any markings on them all it's on them all I can tell you is that I spent roughly $240 on them I think and they're probably an easy generic made in China find. I would post a link but the original listing where I purchase them is no longer up on eBay but if you search on eBay or Amazon I'm sure you will find the exact same thing being sold by lots of different sellers. some might be branded "Tuxing"
@@pootinhammer Thank you, sir. One last question and I'll let you be: I noticed you used a check valve between your tank and the compressor. In general, is that a good (essential) idea? Would you recommend that as a general modus operands? Much appreciated.
@@daveyJ213 I think it's pretty necessary for me now that I've started doing it although I may do without it before it just makes the process of filling large tanks a lot easier but you always have to make sure that the trap side of your line has its own bleed on it otherwise you'll be stuck a stuck unable to disconnect your hoses because you can't release the pressure in the line. If you don't plan on filling large tanks like I'm doing then it's not really necessary because most small paintball tanks and PCP guns if you're going to direct fill already have a check valve on them
At 0.23 you show the hose attached to the the main compressor on the output assembly block. When you attach the hose should their be a small white washer with a small hole placed inside the female hole where the male thread fits into??? I notice there is a bag of spare parts and orings etc but not sure where the small white washers fit. ny help would be appreciated.
@@pootinhammer Many thanks you are a star i could not decide if the white washer/ o-ring fitted between the hose and the high pressure output hole. I'm going to add a bigger pump i think or add a 2nd pump with a 3 way connector to increase water throughput and a 90l bin to reduce temp.
You need another oil water separator. That black filter is only good for oil and some water. Guarantee those tanks will have water still in them. There is additional expense to make the pump usable. The good filter costs about half of the pump. I know because I just have bought the pump and the gold molecular sieves filter this week.
One of my favorite acts to see at the Renaissance Festival in MN, we love their Christmas and will not be missing out on, 'The Danger Committee' this year
That was awesome and gave me some ideas when I watched it about 6 months ago. I'm using one of those fans that you use for drying wet carpets after water damage. And I'm running Amsoil compressor oil. My temp never gets above 110. This fan is like a freaking jet engine lol really keeps it cool. Thanks again for the tips!
