You don't need a block-plane (believe it or not!) 

This gets put in my recommended RIGHT after I buy a block plane for the first time.

To confuse things further: The German name for Block Planes is Hirnholzhobel, which means end grain plane. But the Swedish name for them is Stödhyvel, where Stöt means to push, and is the equivalent word to "shooting" in this instance. If we prod a little further we can notice that the Swedish name for a Shooting Board is "Stötlåda", which basically means Shooting Box. So I guess (not an expert) the block plane was at one time considered a tool for end grain work on a shooting board. And as Rex has shown in later videos. The shooting board was originally used for long grain work.

Spot on. As a retired carpenter/remodeler I kept a block plane in my tool belt. Now, as a woodworker/hobbiest in my shop, I can appreciate having a much bigger tool available when needed.

Dear Rex, I had a low angle block plane for 30+ years and whenever I tried to use it gave up. It simply didn’t plane wood no matter how hard I tried. Recently, I have had to learn how to properly condition planes and sharpen the blades. It cuts beautifully and with a fresh high polish is a joy to use. I use it proportionate to its size - for small jobs like putting bevels on the ends of a piece or to chamfer the sharp edges of wood one will regularly handle. I wouldn’t use it in a shooting board because there is simply not enough meat to get a good hold for this job. For that, I use a low angle jack plane. One surprise discovery is having properly adjusted a wooden block plane and given its blade a proper sharpen, does a magnificent job in first dressing of rough wood. I did a length of Jarrah, a medium density wood from Australia. The surface finish is a beautiful smooth and level finish, quite remarkable. The beauty of the large block planes is that unlike their metal equivalents, they are quite light and easy to push across your work. You don’t get puffed like you do with a Nº 5 or Nº 6 steel plane. Once you take the time to learn how to adjust them, their entirely manual adjustment system is not a major drawback. Happy carpentry.

Hi Rex, I'm a UK Carpenter and you're exactly right - I have exclusively used the same basic, standard Stanley block plane for 40+ years because it fits in my pouch, is easy in the hand, always convenient, easy to adjust and I have no need to carry a collection of heavier Bench Planes to jobsites (where such tools frequently go missing). I've used the block plane for both ultra-fine trimming and hogging off loads of stock over the years because I found a sweet spot in the setup that allows for both. It is only now, as I am returning to home workshop projects nearing the end of my career, that I am buying Bench Planes (again). I can honestly say that for over 40 years, the humble block plane has served me well - I love using it! NOTE: It still has the original iron, which has shrunk due to sharpening but it doesn't need replacement yet. Should you buy and use one? Yes, of course you should...!

You need every plane, all planes .... He who dies with the most planes wins 😀

I'd have agree with you. Block planes are painful, but, a block plane fits in my apron or tool pouch, so I have one :D, otherwise, I would not bother with it, I'd use the bench plane. Yup, as a carpenter, doing door setting, trim work, the block plane wins, it's also only $25, and if someone takes it or I misplace it, I can't cry too hard. You are 100% spot on.

The little guy fits well in your pouch and is quieter than the electric tools,I wouldn’t be without one

they are for carpenters, specifically trim carpenters. i keep a block plane in my tool belt and use it at least a dozen times a day plus i use it mostly for face or edge grain trimming. beautiful tool

As you note, the block plane is portable and convenient, great for little cleanup jobs. I also just find it nice to use, personally - I like the one handed use, and the simplicity. More importantly, it just feels nice to use. A bench plane is just big and heavy - great if you work mostly in a woodshop, but I don't.

You are absolutely correct. Block planes are s trim carpenter’s tool NOT a furniture maker’s tool. Block planes fit in your nail bags and do quick one-handed chamfering fitting and trimming when you’re trimming out a house or hanging cabinets. It would be my first grab in those situations but my last grab if a vice was available.

Antique furniture of 40 years, block plane is an essential piece of kit, sharpness is key ie: mirror finish (finished on a slate stone) and so sharp you can wet your forearm and shave hairs off, this done it will slip through end grain like butter, try leveling a protruding tennon joint with a smoothing plane without biting into the surrounding area. Personally my block plane is an extension of my arm. Daryle UK.

When I was working as a floor mechanic I saw lots of finish carpenters carrying a block plane in the pockets of their bibs. They used them often when adjusting trim bevels. In a shop environment i can't envision needing a block plane. Great video Rex. My advice is that if you are planning on building a house start to finish then you might need a block plane. I carried one when doing hardwood floors but haven't used it since the late 1980's when I quit installing oak floors.

I'm a retired Carpenter from the 70s. I used my Stanley 60 and a half block plane for scribing wood to the wall many many times. I even used it a lot to fit plastic laminate tightly. I still like to use it in my shop. Keeping it sharp is the key.

That intro. The classic difference between a _need_ and a "it is still convenient/nice/cool/practical/you might like it better to have" thing, and people's even more classic difficulty to understand they're not the same.

I just bought a Trojan block plane for 13 dollars. The old guy next to me in the shop said it was a good brand. I've tried to sharpen it up and it seems to be working. It's my first plane.

I really thought that I would be completely disagreeing with you, but I think you hit the nail on the head. I didn’t get A low angle block plane for several years after I got serious about woodworking, and although I use mine all the time, it’s exactly for the purpose that you mentioned- trimming or rounding over edges, usually with a piece I’m holding in my left hand while I use the block plane in my right. Although I do disagree with you about the number five jack plane, the low angle Jack plane completely replaces it and does a much better job in my mind. But yeah, a No. 4 smoother covers the vast majority of my face planing needs.

Lol! My block plane is in the cabinet. It comes out on final fit/assembly for any furniture I build. Like twice a year...lol! When I was 16-17 the school district re-did the old counter in the AdminsOffice. Really. Our H.S. was a NHR building, then, 44 years ago. We all knew the senior carpenter at the central shop as he came in for a few hours out in our wood shop classes. He KNEW stuff, lol! We chatted, and he didn't use or carry any block planes in the field (the one was in his tool chest room at the central shop), and he showed me the way to do fine trim/clean up/smoothing with (very old) Greenlee 3/4", 1", 1 1/2", and 2" long detachable handle chisels. To this day I will always appreciate his taking 20 minutes after school and showing me how! I have a handmade leather chisel roll with a similar set, plus a 1/2" chisel. They take a lot of time, it's flat work, no gouge, and it's next to something that already has a prepared surface: marble, granite, custom laminate, metal. Just whip out the sandpaper or block plane there, lol! Doors, drawers, bread boards, etc. yeah, block plane, chisels on the rest! JMHO as well! Great info! Keep it coming!!

Hey Rex! Thanks for all you do! Your videos have helped me out a lot. I decided to try to build a violin with hand tools, and your videos have been a great resource. Just thought you’d find my situation with block planes interesting - I have one from my grandpa, one from my dad, and another smaller violinmaker’s block plane that was given to me as a gift. I’ve found specific uses for all three! With highly figured maple, I need a steep angle as well as a toothed blade option, and it’s nice to keep all three set up and ready to go. Once I’m done with a couple violins, I want to build some Queen Anne style furniture. Keep up the good work, and thanks again!!

Possibly the most useful and most used tools in my toolbox, whether for carpentry or cabinetmaking. I have the little Lie-Nielsen bronze block plane, which is a jewel.

Paul seller touched on this also. He agreed in so many words. Said the number 4 was the all around plane you "need"

For this furniture maker, the block plane has an inverse goldilocks problem. Too big to be small, too small to be big. For one-handed trimming I use a smaller, nimbler, cheaper apron plane. For almost everything else I use a bevel-up jack, which is so versatile that I would recommend it over a smoother.

I agree with you Rex. I find a no4 plane much easier to handle and the weight helps it to plow through the wood. I use my block plane almost only for chamfers, and even so I miss the chipbreaker a lot

Looking forward to the Great Neck plane review.

Thanks for the information. You make a lot of good points and I am looking forward to the review.

I just bought my first block plane. I'm primarily power tool so it's really only for breaking edges or some end grain so I believe it's a helpful tool.

I picked up a "seconds" Varitas block plane a few years back for a steal and while it is a lovely tool I really don't use it much. I basically just use for very small pieces of project or to chamfer corners in a very controlled way. Basically anywhere the #4 plane feels too bulky. I did just pick up an old apron plane that I will clean up and sharpen though and I expect it may take the place of the block plane for that role, it just feels so handy being even smaller. I'm glad I have the block plane, it is a lovely tool, but I also wouldn't miss it that much if I didn't have it.

i've done fine joinery for nearly 20 years and never really NEEDED a block plane, they're "handy" because they're..... well..... better fit in the hand so theyre good in a tight spot. theyre good on site, when fitting things like stairs or kitchens. but tbh a good sharp regular old bench plane is the only plane you would ever REALLY need. a jointing plane too for prep maybe, but again, for finishing, shaping and sizing, a bench plane is the only plane you would ever need for none specialist work. although ..... obviously , we could get into rabbet planes, hand routers, edge planes, chamfer planes, profiling planes with a dozen different irons, plough planes, ect ect ect. and these are all useful of course, but if i personally could only own a single nonstandard plane it would be an edge to edge bench plane or No10 rebate plane, which is effectively your normal bench plane but the iron reaches both sides allowing you to use it against a stop and cut rebates. although its perfectly usable for regular smoothing.

This is a personal choice. I have found uses for a block plane on nearly every job for 40 years!!!

Very engaging--kept this pro carpenter/woodworker interested. . . And you made very good points!

Great vid thanks Rex, I use my block plane (Stanley) daily it is my go to plane on site as you pointed out, in fact you hit every nail on the head in this vid, one of my fave channels,thanks again and keep 'em coming

I just received 2 block planes and a #4 and a #5 from my uncle, the thing that I like about the low angle plane is that it's great practice for refurbish before I go onto my larger planes. Also block planes are also super cute and that's important :)

My first plane was a old Stanley hammer adjustibg block planei got at a yard sale long before I was ever interested in actually doing wood working. I just recently got a smoothing plane. You're videos have been amazing thank you.

What they're handy for is making small boxes. For cleaning edges of thin boards (1/2 inch or less). It can also be useful in finish carpentry for doing things like rounding over an edge of a trim strip - I've got over 60 feet of hand rounded-over trim in the living room and all done with a block plane. Fitting drawers as you pointed out is also a job where a block plane is handy. The individual strips were up to ten feet long. I stumbled into woodworking because my wife had a bunch of jobs around the house that involved finish carpentry jobs and I found the block plane much easier to use when you're sitting on the trim on a saw horse rounding over an edge and blending it into previously worked edges.

I understand your video and agree. Personally use my block plane for the control I have over it. By virtue of being less clunky I feel more connection between plane and wood with a block plane. It also helps that the dark gray patina on my Stanley 62 knuckle block plane is amazing looking. I bought a Veritas fancy skinny one this February and use it on every project. The machining for the adjustable throat and blade adjustments is a threat.

I'm glad you brought this up! When I was first gathering my tools, I bought a block plane at an antique store because everybody said it was essential. But after restoring it I kept wondering, "What on Earth do I use this for?" I ended up using my No. 5 for everything, and am ashamed to say the block plane ended up being a paint scraper (it's low quality, don't worry. I didn't ruin an heirloom). I'm really looking forward to the review! Good quality vintage tools are very hard to find in my area, and it's often prohibitively expensive to ship here. I have been keeping my eye out for an inexpensive way to get a good smoothing plane.

Thanks for another great video Rex! I don't to a LOT of wood working, but after you did a video on planes, I found a very small one that is great for taking the edges off my knife handles! Shout out to a fellow Clevelander!

I just bought you ebook off Amazon, it took me a bit but I finally did and boy wish I had it before getting into starting my lathe hobby started, but I'm glad I bought this ebook for all the great information in it ,thank you for taking the time to make it . -CJ

I have just sharpened my ancient Stanley block plane on my original re-dressed 33 year old Indian oilstone and put it in my door-shooting box. It gets used daily for arrising and touching up where the electric planer won't do. It essential AND LIGHTHER THAN A 3 OR 4.

Another great video, very interesting indeed. Thank you.

Agree with you. Very good video and enjoyable to watch. Thanks

I've seen a few guys on RU-vid knock off corners with their spokeshave, too. Probably still awkward one-handed, but it's smaller than a bench plane and can do other work a block plane can't.

Correct are you! I've been a carpenter since 1970 .A toy model builder since mid 50s b 1952 .The block plane,r anything is up graded by You. The metal is the foundation,no matter its malleable efficiency ,inefficiency. You can change,carve,and shape the handles.Owning multiple planes with different shape handles gives leverage most suited to particular jobs. Just leave yourself a note for its use, because you Will forget.

I have a dozen block planes and I love everyone of them. While you may be right , but I’m keeping them.

A block plane was my first plane. Purchased only because it was the only plane I could afford at $12. Only last week, I finally upgraded to a Stanley Bailey no.5 salvaged from a scrap metal dealer for $10 and refurbished. Thanks Rex for the advice on how to do the refurbishment.

I look forward to seeing you next week. Thumbs up to crush a troll.

Nice work Rex

I just started finer woodworking after doing rough carpentry for a few years. I was just given a 1930’s Stanley Bailey No 4 and a small Stanley block plane from the same era. Both were a family members grandfather’s tools and he built furniture for a living. I can’t wait to get both new irons and put them to work. The block plane iron has been used so much it’s totally out of space and won’t event cut and the no 4 iron is almost used up too. I guess both have seen a lot of projects. I’m sanding and cleaning the no 4 while I watch this. :)

Your videos are always great to watch and you’re completely correct in my opinion, I’ve never even owned a block plane and really don’t think I have a need for them. Even if I had one, Id grab a bench plane every time because I have large hands and a number 4 already feels quite nimble and easy to use for most things in my opinion.

Agreed. I prefer my #6 for shooting board. I just have a special blade for this kind of job. Moves smoothly, comfortable to hold and easier to keep parallel to the board, because of its length. Or #3, if 6 is overkill.

I've been using my Stanley block plane as a carpenter for fifty years,I'll be using it tomorrow and using it till I no longer can.

I'm convinced that there are only two real advantages to a block plane: 1) They're less intimidating to sharpen, so they're mostly kept sharper, and 2) They're more maneuverable, so they're great for small things like moulding, which is likely to be where most people first use them. Other than that, I really wouldn't miss them if I stopped using them tomorrow.

I have that GreatNeck #4. It works fine to me. The lever had to go over to the right to get the blade square, so I adjusted the frog a bit. The only problem I had was the handle getting loose. The handle is free to twist a bit and the bolt holding the handle on would inevitably loosen over time. I noticed that there's a square cavity in the casting directly underneath the handle that is not utilized. So I added a bump to the bottom of the handle to fit in this cavity. Basically, I cut about a quarter inch from the bottom of the handle with the bandsaw. Flattened and slotted the bottom of the handle so I could glue on a mating extension. Got that back to the original shape except it fits down into that cavity just so. Ne'er another problem.

But dad, I want shiny bronze and brass on my tools!

I am going to disagree. I love my block planes as I have more control while doing fractional work (less than an inch). They also are essential when I need to make a new fishing pole. :-P Otherwise I use it to help out the neighbors where my #3 plane is overkill. Yes, you can get by without them, but it really depends on the work you do.

Thanks for the really great instruction on tools.

I just got a rusty pre-WWII 9 1/2 for cheap, and when I cleaned it up I found that it had no signs of use, and the iron had never been sharpened, still had the factory grind. I measured it, came up with 37 degree single bevel grind, 24" diameter perfect circle camber. Seems like what you would want on a jobsite for tough use.

Thanks for this. Very informative!

Awesome video Rex, I was actually on the fence about that Great Neck plane after watching so many of your other videos! It should be noted that a lot of the house brand planes on the market are also made by Great Neck. I know they make them for Ace Hardware, and I'm pretty sure they do for Home Depot as well.

Thanks, Rex!

My experience backs up yours, Rex.

Excellent !!!! Only use my # 3 and # 6, most of the time.

Great video, Rex! Looking forward to the review next week!!!! I like my box planes, where they're useful... BUT my opinion has long been "get the tool that suits the job"... referencing most specifically, "Scale". Big hefty planes are needed for most of the work of a plane. Little clever lightweight planes are nice for little clever lightweight work... more (in my experience) suited to minor parts of the furnishing or an instrument, where lighter stock is chosen to start with, and there's just less material to go around (including to the mistakes monsters). Sure, portability is worth valid mention, but in the end, it's about a quality job getting done. The little slats in the back of a chair might be worth trims and casual repeated fit and reshape with a block plane, simply because you can keep repeating that cycle for a couple hours at a time... or worse (longer?)... or for fitting together a violin or guitar, where it's got to be "tight tight" but you can't afford to break anything either. ;o)

Rex, I truly enjoy both your approach and your videos. And you're absolutely correct about planes: for the non-professional woodworker to get a decent quality plane, a significant investment in time or effort is necessary. In my search on Amazon for a quality plane I could actually afford, I came across Taytools (Taylor Toolworks). They sell all kinds of woodworking supplies, on Amazon, and thru their own website, including planes. I took a chance on a #4 smoother, for $79, and am very happy with it. Nothing else I found approached their quality at this price point.

Thanks for the knowledge Rex

We used the Stanley low angle block plane all the time, but it is because you could carry it in your tool belt. Easy to fix miter , finish a new hung door touch up a base board, but this wasn't high end work this was getting stores, malls and other places up and running, always a minimum amount of time to finish a maximum amount of work. You hit it all right. Good job , I have full sets of planes and hand tools hardly touch a block plan any more . But its still in my tool bag.

Thanks Rex - enjoyed that!

Rex that was another great video! I agree with everything you say , especially with the fact that bockplanes are typically outperformed by a well tuned regular smoothing plane. And I also agree with the fact that y they are good alternatives for those who have to carry a lot of tools to job sites, and for beginners as well. They are so light, versatile, and , for most of them inexpensive that their choice makes sense; I will add that I use block planes in two more occasions: -At the lumberyard, to check the wood quality ( and sometimes the seller 's quality). -For working on greenwood. The simplest model, without a mouth adjustment, is perfect for shaping chair parts out of greenwood, like sticks or spindles , after roughting them out with the drawknive . I find it outperforms other tools like spokeshaves for that. ( Sorry for my English mistakes) .

Nice video, thanks Rex.

Well argued as always Rex.

My use for block olanes, When Installing things not in the shop as you touched on. Taking off the sharp edges of board at the jointer or planer or off the table saw so I don't cut myself on them. Sometimes smoothing small areas when the bed legenth and width of a smoother won't fit in. I also like as you said a really small block plane often called an apron plane. They aren't adjustable mouth bit their small size makes them really easy to be on hand.

I like how you challenge common conceptions, then back up your words with a demo. I use my block plane to flush trim screw plugs and not much else because as you pointed out, it lacks the mass of a smoothing plane. It works trimming plugs better than flush saws and is easier to use for this purpose than a larger plane would. That’s about it though.

but you want one...mostly a field tool i've found , rarely do i grab one at the workbench. Great video

Sorry but I’ve been a carpenter for a little over 40 years, been trimming most of that time and you darned well better have a block plane. My favorite is the little LN apron plane. I have several and they are absolutely essential. There are two block planes and a shoulder plane in my tool bucket. I have transferred the use of these over to woodworking as well.

Awesome stuff Rex. I agree we don't really need a block plane for most jobs. That said I actually pulled out my old Stanley 9 1/2 because I needed to break the aris off the edge of some shelves. I wanted to be able to control the mouth opening and since I didn't have a vice a plane that I could use one-handed. Keep up the good work!

One of the most common planes I see at flea markets is a Stanley block plane. I haven’t paid over $10 for any one of them with an adjustable mouth. Once fettled, they are my most used planes.

I use my woodpecker EZEdge for chamfers and roundovers during finishing. I got a block plane, but it chills in my to-go tool box for fixin' stuff.

I really like the wooden coffin planes I find here a lot, especially the ones with a bit of wood behind the blade on top, fits my hand real nice, and easy to h9ld one handed. They can be found for less than 5 bucks in 2nd hand shops. Good quality blades often, easy to sharpen.

YES! I do some woodworking, but I'm currently employed doing home remodeling, mainly carpentry. I'm trying to practice my hand plane skills for the job sites when I just need to true up a bit of a edge or end grain. Sometimes I need to cut to fit and it's just a hair too big, or my circ saw cut is slightly crooked. So many times I see videos of people like Norm Abram just make it look so easy. Then again, can't expect much from low end (low budget) planes without the time and effort to tune them properly.

I got myself a combination block/shoulder plane. It’s quite a versatile tool and like you said, it’s mostly for small adjustments where you either have to work on an already assembled piece of furniture or just don’t have a vise to hold it. Using a bench plane with one hand is nearly impossible. For job site work it is essential though to be able to hold it with one hand and plane with the other. A cheap alternative might be a little wooden Japanese plane, though they’re sometimes more expensive than a regular block plane and like the saw, made for a pulling motion, which takes some getting used to. The problem with mid-range solutions in my opinion is that you never want them. Take the bench plane. If you can’t afford the 200$ Lie Nielsen, but don’t want the cheapo 37$ Amazon plane either and you buy something in the $100 price range, you’re kind of stuck with it. Because if you want the Lie Nielsen later, you already spent 100 bucks on a plane, so the total amount of money you spent to get the plane you really wanted is now 300, which just makes it unreasonably expensive. If you just spent $37 on a transitional plane it’s going to hurt much less. That’s kind of my approach. Either buy a cheap tool that barely does the job, or don’t buy a tool at all and save up for the one you really want.

Some where in my 30th year of carpentry my little Stanley block plane grew legs. It was very small. Not seen another. It's replacement is a Stanley folded up sheet metal thing. Banging around in a pouch it continually lost it's settings. About the only thing it is good for is cedar shake siding or roofing. Bevel siding strained me and it. Out with the skill knief. Now I am restoring a '32 Stanley #4 . I gtabbed it cleaning up ash from my chainsaw mill, just to get it ready for a circular saw. It works, I am hooked! Chris

I actually have more issues with keeping my smoothing plane oriented properly on endgrain because of the weight. But I think most of my problems with using them for endgrain are because I use them the most and don't sharpen them enough.

I totally agree that a block plane is for carpentry. Fits in a small tool box and in a pocket. It is great for knocking dovn edges or trimming drawers as you said. Even in a modern setting it is valuable. I have one and I wouldn't live without it, even though I don't use it too often.

By that argument, there's not a single tool that you actual NEED because there's always more than one way to do anything and everything. But there are some tools that are quite indispensible, particularly when you've worked with them long enough. The table saw is obvious in that regard for most people. For me, my Lie-Neilsen rabbet block plane is my most well-rounded, fast, and efficient tool for many tasks on almost any project I work on. It's also much more comfortable and manageable than a smoother for the tasks on which I use a block plane. The best advice when it comes to buying tools is to "buy them as you need them." This is the way "tool collections" are made. Outside of that, if you think you want to try a block plane, then get a cheap one. If you like it, then buy a better one. But I hope people don't decide against a block plane based on this video...a lot of people would miss out on the pleasure of using a nice tool.

"If you have the coin..." Khajiit has wares.

Like what you do Rex.

I tried buying one of those Great Neck planes about 6 weeks ago for $37 shipped and they sent me a plane body with no iron, chip breaker, or cap in a box missing an entire side held together by packing tape. Not wanting to source an entirely replacement assembly I just shipped it back. Kindof a wash. For $3 more I got one of the AmazonBasics #4 planes that came with all its parts and actually functioned for rough work out of the box. If it works decently well you can save a few bucks but some of the sellers definitely whiff it on that plane.

I am a carpenter; and likewise I have done and do cabinet work. It is true that the block plane does not get too much use most of the time. And it is true that "most" individuals go around trying to find the cheapest tool that they can get; because, they "cannot" see themselves paying for an expensive tool. mmmm!. Do I have a block plane? Yes. I have 5 of them. Mostly low angle. First, block planes are akin to a fire extinguisher. It just sits there till you "really" need it. And then when you do...you kiss its butt! What do I use them for? Small parts that I can hold in my hand, or fitting in a drawer, or knock down a sharp edge on a piece of woodwork "in situ". I find them so helpful in shaving to a line on contoured pieces; faster than sandpaper or a rasp; smoother too if your blade is really sharp. I will eventually get another one from Lie-Nielsen. And I would love one day to get a Stanley No 1 hand plane, and a Stanley 164. mmmm! And as far as spending top dollar for a tool. How many say that they would never do something like that; yet, spend top dollar on cable service they do not watch much at all, except for a few selected shows. Or constanly burn money on cigarrette's. Or on their car, or for every stupid doo-da of kitchen utensils. Come on...you know you bought yourself a Ginsu knife! Admit you did so. How about your Pocket Fisherman. Where is it? Or gamble away a great deal of money on the horses or the casino tables. Or fancy clothes, cheap jewelry for your wife. Expensive food and gourmet what-you-might-call-it. Or have food delivered because you value your time so much, that you do not want to go to the store for. When I buy a tool, it must be well made and designed, beautiful, and American Made if I can find it. I will not give my money to a foreign company. I would much rather feed an American worker. You do not do that by buying at Walmart. And great tools can be handed down to your children with pride. Not to mention the pride of using a great tool that is gorgeous and performs well. Maybe one day I will get a set of Preston violin hand planes. Oh well....!

Interesting theory of Block Planes coming from carpenters, every carpenter I've known has one. However, so do all the Fine Furniture makers. The reason block planes are essential is because of their versatility, yes they can plane a large surface of end grain but they're mainly for working on small surfaces, for example, leveling the bottom of a tapered table leg. You would not be able to shave the end grain of a 3/4" piece of maple with a #3 Box Plane, but you would be able to with a Block Plane. Anyway, nice video!

Looking forward to next week's review. I'm especially interested in if the blade holds it edge. See, I bought a cheap kitchen knife. It had a red handle that fits me well and nice weight. The only problem is that the steel is poor quality and every time I use it, I have to sharpen it. $35 is a great price but I'm hoping that they didn't cut corners on the blade. 💝☀🌵

I often use block planes for small areas. It's also easy to clamp in the vise upside down, if I'm working with a small piece of wood. I have an older Great Neck bench plane that I really like. It was my first plane. I got it on eBay for $20 (shipping included). But, I invested a lot of "sweat equity" to make it usable. It needed a lot of sanding to flatten the sole and the frog. Also had to file the mouth so it was actually square. As a hobby woodworker I understand that I may need to put in the effort of finishing the tool, rather than paying someone at Veritas to do it for me.

I'm lucky in that I love in an area with vintage bench planes available at estate sales. Not a lot, and not usually larger than a #5, but, still lucky. I have acquired 13 so far at very affordable prices. Just wanted to say thanks since you were the one to inspire me to even look.

Ha, a block plane is my one plane I never think I need until I hurt myself on a sharp corner and then trudge back to the garage to get the standard angle Handyman I found in a forgotten corner of my uncle's house years ago. I've been meaning to upgrade from it, but I'm just so used to it. Plus it was great to use when I was working on my workbench and was doing everything on the ground, Japanese style with no vises, but with western planes instead. It's also actually pretty useable when used like a kanna plane with how round it is. Man, that Handyman might never get replaced.

Another good video and observation Rex IMO the most important tool a Woodworker needs is a router with a good assortment od bits a router and a sraight edge can surface just about any edge i use mine as a jointer, Lamello cutter , surface planer, and of course a profiler all the time hand planes are awesome tools but not necessarily the most needed in a workshop another big issue that affects the hand plane is that it takes a certain amount of skill to tune and operate one in order to get. Good results in comparison to a router all you need to know is how to build the correct jig and the machine and bit does all the work for you And with modern technology you can find many great tutorials on RU-vid. Or the Internet. In general to guide you through what ever task you may need to accomplish like joinery Or whatever it may be

That Great Neck plane is the first plane that I got. Although, barely used it. There are problems with that plane so you will have to make some adjustments. The problem that I found was the chip breaker.

thank you Rex

I went to school for carpentry, we were required to bring certain hands tools, like utility knife, speed square, torpedo and 2’ level, saw, gamer etc etc.. the most interesting tool required was a block plane. I use mine mostly for installing doors.

I agree. My only block plane is a fancy Lie Neilsen low angle block plane. Nice tool, well made, takes nice shaving but I rarely reach for it. I usually reach for a #4 for chamfering edges or working on endgrain. My #4 is a craftsman brand that I got for 20 bucks at antique shop. Not a collector plane, but my favorite.

Haha! I had a Stanley 9 1/2 delivered just yesterday! Then I see this. Serves me right for not watching ALL of Rex's videos first.

If you're using a bench plane all day a block plane can be really good for me just to get something with a different hand position, but as a tool I probably don't need it