Endurance bike for speed you wonder what am talking about? It's Endurance bike 7.484 kilo without pedals 53 teeth gropset and extremely responsive to speed in comfort everything
I built one out of what was originally Sirrus 4 from Specialized. Changed out everything to make it more like a road endurance bike. It's been great for long tours over the last couple of years. This year I am looking to purchase one - the Vitus Venon looks amazing (if I can get one in the states).
All bikes should be designed with aerodynamics in mind. Its just the better shape. And if you can ride in the drops comfortably your fit (stack) is ok. Be it race or endurance.
The right bike is whichever bike will make you want to ride it more and makes you happy. Doesn't matter if it's an aero, lightweight, endurance, gravel etc.
With all the ‘race’ marketing in road cycling, some people who purchase TCRs, S6 Evos and Dogmas must be aware that the geometry isn’t designed for leisure or exercise, which of those two activities the ‘average cyclist’ is majorly riding. I suppose everyone has to do their proper research and chat with experienced cyclists, not just agree with the posters in their local LBS.
@@peggz223 This is where proper bike fit comes in. I was eyeing an endurance bike (Giant Defy) then, but I decided to consult first a fitter prior to purchasing one. I've found out that the TCR is much comfortable, hence I purchased one and it has become my "endurance" bike ever since.
@@rdr33 Good point, usually I’d assume more relaxed frame geometry is a better starting point than going with something more aggressive, but I’m glad you found a TCR more ‘rideable’ by consulting a fitting expert and asking good questions. Ride on man!
Experience has taught me when you are no longer a slave cycling marketing hype or aspire to perform like a pro despite age or suboptimal genetics, is the point you can truly enjoy road cycling.
Also, just stop riding with people who are slaves to cycling marketing theology. When you've been riding for 20+ years longer than them (even if you are similar in age), your intuition is better than theirs.
Im 61 and riding bikes for more than 40 years,i have 6 bikes but just one is more aero(scott foil),witch by the way is the one i ride less,since i prefer more hilly rides and mountain rides,ive been like the majority of amateur riders across the world a slave to cycling,but since i started riding more alone and chose my rides,i enjoy much more riding,and without so much stress.
100% agree. When I got my first Trek Domane in 2015, it was a total game changer for me. I no longer come back from rides feeling like I just got beat-up by my own bicycle.
I got a trek emonda alr6 and people laugh at me that i got alu over carbon in that price. Untill it turns out it got better wheels, groupset and weights less than their carbon shits :D
I have a Rivendell A. Homer Hilsen. Goes anywhere and perfect for everything! I'm glad that people are figuring out that you don't need a race bike unless you are actually in a race. If you are out for exercise, those few ounces are not going to hurt anything. Reliability, versatility, and comfort are much more important than getting to your destination 2 minutes sooner.
Thank you so much. Two years ago I bought a red Giant Defy, Ultegra Di 2 with power meter. I am now 76 years old and since 2 yaers in love with my Giant doing up to 140 Km. Started cycling one year earlier with a Cube Nuroad Gravelbike. I use this bike only in winter. I am so happy that I followed your advice 2 years age thanks again.
Hallo Markus, ich wohne am Bodensee und liebe es überall hin zu fahren. Habe letzten Herbst zum ersten Mal am Bodensee Radrennen teilgenommen was mir viel Spass gemacht hat. Danke für Deine Antwort.@@fahrradmarkus
7:30 I’m so glad you highlighted that. When your hobby is your passion, any sense of practicality and logic go out the window. Look at cars, we’d all be fine with a VW Golf tsi but tell me you wouldn’t rather drive a Porsche. You’ll put up with the harsh ride, no back seats and terrible storage all so that your commute can be every bit more exciting. Same story with bikes.
Got about 50K miles on my 23-yr old Trek 1000 road bike. I’m 63, riding about 3K leisure mi/yr and, while I can easily afford to upgrade, just don’t have a good enough reason to do it. 😎
I first bought an endurance bike based on thinking I wanted to be more relaxed but several fitters recommended a more aggressive bike for my next bike. I’m 5’7” 185 lbs and 42. Moved from a Roubaix to a Soloist. It has added prob 2 mph to my cruising speed, better handling, better climbing. I ride 30 tires tubeless and it’s more comfy than the endurance bike road vibration wise. Part of it is if you’re willing to put the work in to be able to handle the more aggressive position. It takes practice. And if you like going as fast as you can. I do, I’m always trying to go faster in the same routes I do. For me, I’m super happy I moved to a race bike. Others may just wanna get out and get in some miles without obsessing over speed. Others don’t have bodies that can contort to aggressive positions. But if you’re like me and love the speed, I wouldn’t rule out a race bike or aero bike.
Thanks.. I'm in a similar situation. I am very much looking at the Merida Reacto (current riding a 2016 Scultura 300 but wanting to upgrade). I absolutely love getting down in position and giving it my all (5'6.5" & 160lbs here).
After 14 years riding Roubaix endurance road bikes, I switched to an Emonda and love it! It’s so much fun! Quick accelerations and responsive steering is a blast. Trek’s “1.5 geometry” is reasonably relaxed and fitted with a few spacers is comfy, even for me at age 68. The 51 mm deep wheels with 31 mm external width pair perfectly with Pirelli P Zero 30 mm tires set up tubeless. I’m geared down when needed with a 10-36 cassette. The old slammed stem paradigm isn’t the only road bike option.
reminds me of setting up Tri bikes in early 90s everyone had to have flat backs. for average person this meant slower times and more pain. by late 90s we were setting them up to be as comfortable as possible, a couple 60 plus guys were almost upright in aero bars, but they finished faster and happier. comfort is key
I have two race bikes - an aero bike and a hill climber and had them fitted so they are comfortable. I’m 60 but my back is still fine and I LOVE to go fast. I tried the Defy and honestly it felt slow to me. At the end of the day ride what you love!
I tend to be in the speed = comfort school as well. I often ride alone at a brisk base in windy conditions. Being in a tucked position and having that snappy feel from a racier bike is nice.
Yes, agree that wider tires are better for sure😃... But like my stack on the low side. It's been extra 🌬️ windy this year and being tucked definitely gets you through the wind easier/faster. If you're riding 400-500 miles per month that definitely adds up to time/watts saved so glad I still have my old Trek 1400 zx "Race" Bike... Plus it's light and easy to chuck around... Guess if I really wanted to make life easier, I'd just drop $$2.5k on a higher level electric and be done with human💪 powered cycling for good!!👍😮 ...Aaaahhhh, so much easier!!😅
I'm 60 as well. I'm fit and flexible and it's not my back on those bikes, it's my neck! My body feels great on those race bikes, but by the end of the ride the back of my neck is destroyed.
I think we need to get away from titles like "endurance", "gravel" etc. My last 2 bikes were based on the geometry and tyre clearance I wanted, along with things like frame mounts and the ability to fit mudguards. I couldn't care less what category the manufacturer put them in. As it happens, both were sold as 'gravel' bikes but that was irrelevant to the purchasing decision.
I agree with you, in parts. I think you should start the video by saying: if you, like me, only use bicycles for leisure, never participate in competitions, don't go after KOMs...You should consider an endurance bike.
I build my endurance bike and is very good when I build that it was 8.600 kilos now its 7.483 with the upgrades that I did I can.easily hold 42 khm in the straight keep on mind the wheels is aluminum everything is how you choose your components and how aero frames is not that much faster at the best the gave you 0.4 kmh per hour in the straight with the same watts
I agree with whatever opinions result in road race bikes staying long/low. More riders choosing endurance bikes is good. Fewer riders being shamed for having 50mm in spacers on race bikes is good too.
You can race and take KOMs on an endurance bike - a lot of good endurance bikes are neither slow or heavy, and also have aerodynamic features. Riding a bike that fits you properly is almost always faster. It’s not a case of choosing between a fast bike and a slow bike, both types of bike can be fast with the right rider.
I’ve never looked back after switching to mechanical brakes, friction shifters, 650bx 47mm tires, square taper bottom bracket with sub compact gearing all on a super comfy steel frame and fork. Coming in at a respectable sub 21 lbs.
@@einundsiebenziger5488 Got Dia-Compe ENE Power Ratchet Friction Shifters on my commute bike. Buttery smooth, allows me to use flat steel chainrings on my triple chainset. Durable, reliable, needs very little maintenance. The clunk of indexed shifting is great on a race bike but feeling/hearing your way through the gears with friction also is worth doing, it's the cycling equivalent of sailboating.
@@einundsiebenziger5488The channel Path Less Pedaled has some videos about friction shifters. On my bikes I have one Rohloff and the others are indexed but I get that people want something that's simple and compatible to different cable pull ratios. Btw for me if I had to pick something, it would be hub dynamos and LED bike lights.
Great point, well made. I ride a Canyon Endurace CFR and absolutely adore the bike. Super lightweight and easy on the eye. It makes me smile whenever I look at it, and I can never wait to get back on it for another ride.
Most people just don't have anywhere to ride a gravel bike. Most places the roads are paved and trails are single track. So it's a bike that worse on pavement than a road bike and worse on trails than a mountain bike. Sure if you live somewhere with miles and miles of dirt roads then I'm sure they would be the best thing ever.
@@sevenrats you have a point but the times when I want to do gravel I don't need to take a train or go by car I can just ride to the trail. That is the good thing about gravel bikes. It's not about fast rides but flexibility. Going to reach the trails 60/70 kms away I don't even think about using my mtb but with the gravel bike I can. Having two road bikes (winter and summer),gravel, and mtb i never get bored. Of course city bike for commuting... Life is never boring
@@sevenrats the closest gravel road to my house is about 1.5km and I can do hundreds of kilometres locally on gravel. I have a road bike, but my gravel bike is actually better suited to most road riding (due to road condition and bike comfort) and the performance quite comparable.
I have a 2016 Giany Defy Pro. Endurance bike of the year 2016. Its very good. Still my most used bike us a All City Gorilla Monsoon complete with racks, suspension seat and stem, Selle Anatomica saddle, 47C Goodyear Connector tubeless tires. The bike is my Cadillac and the Giant feels like a race bike in comparison! But the joy of riding any road surface in comfort is my jam! I came from steel frames, friction shifters and 11/2 inch tires on steel rims. There is joy in a simple do everything bike! Race bikes are narrow focused but beautiful too! It depends on the ride. Your favorite bike is probably the one you are currently riding!
I can relate. Many over-thought, over-priced bikes, over many years, many disappointments, and it boils down to one question: is/was/were there favorable kinetic feedbacks that made a bike part of the experience
At 75 with arthritis I have a Cerevelo Caledonia with a slightly small frame, an extended head tube to limit neck estension and a prostate protecting saddle. Its very comfortable and I can easily get into the drops, although I try to avoid that these days!
I'm 57, just got my 1st road bike since I was 15 years old. A Bianchi 928 carbon L, 2 weeks later pick up a Cervelo RS. 6 weeks today there is a Daccordi Vinci on its way to me. I bike to work 6 days a week. About 20 minutes away. I gave up the truck. When I comes home, I can't wait to go back out and ride more. At 1st I was worried about the leaning over. Now I love it and prefer it. Each bike weighs less than 17lbs. This low weight, thin tires makes the bike go up hills by itself. The roads where I live are horrible. I have Campanology Ventos, Shimano r500, both are bulletproof. I'm gonna stay with what I have until I can no longer ride
Had a Cannondale SuperSix for several years and ended up with a cracked frame. Got it warrantied and found myself with a carbon Synapse frame as replacement. Found out that was probably the better choice and I didn’t know it until I could compare. Endurance frame with race bike parts is awesome.
Completely agree! I switched from a road bike to a Parlee endurance bike in 2017 and will never look back. The carbon lay-ups, the shorter wheelbase and cockpit make for comfort be in a 25 mile short ride or a century.
I have a Cube 2021 Nuroad C:62 SL. It's marketed as a gravel bike - but the frame looks a lot like other "tags". I absolutely love it. Some scoff at the single chainring being used on the road - I've never had a problem with it on my club rides. The 10-50T cassette has dropped a lot in price since I bought it and that "dinner plate" let's me tackle pretty much any climb I am faced with. On the high end it's usually me that chickens out before the capability of the gearset. The eTap AXS kit is just brilliant. I have the Schwalbe G-One R tyres - 40mm wide on this. I love them. We have some pretty terrible lanes around here in the Cotswolds and that tyre is defo needed a lot of times - plus it has surprisingly good rolling resistance. Only downside is price. Two recent club rides showed that big-time when we came across some very un-roadie friendly terrain. I love this bike - feel I can do anything I need to on the road - but can use it on tracks and gravel without any qualms.
I have a Boardman Cx Team 2011 that I bought on eBay 11 years ago. I've used it for L'Etape du Tour several times, cycle touring with panniers, Paris Roubaix, Tour of Flanders, cyclocross, Mt Ventoux via the woods and round the Bugatti circuit for the Le Mans 24hr velo. Oh.... I also use it to go shopping. Does me just fine. 👍
I like what you were saying there, my new Salsa Journeyer gravel bike could almost race a crit. Put a set of slick tires on it and 48 tooth chain ring on the front boom you're ready to go. Yes I did get this gravel bike with two in the front; I'm still a roadie 😎.
As you point out, the difference in geometry between the tcr and defy is small. It’s actually this small that the only significant changes are the stack, wheel base and tire clearance. You can easily make up stack and if you don’t need more than 32mm tire clearance, you would be hard pressed to notice the differences. BUT the defy has internal cable routing and is on average 1000 more expensive. So I chose the tcr, am riding 28mm and couldn’t be happier.
The all new Defy has slightly more aggressive geometry to the 2018 era one I have. Unfortunately, my 2018 doesn’t have the tyre clearance they have now….
HOOOO BOYYY...after 69-years of cycling, nothing has "ruined" my love of cycling than looking at YT-vids on the subject. Ughhh......blah blah blah. Happiness does NOT require all the hype. sheeshhh....
I own a Tarmac SL7 and bought a Roubaix last year under the promise of more comfortable rides. The comfort was barely improved but the bike just felt so lazy. I didn’t enjoy it nearly as much. I think a race bike can be just as comfortable in an era of wider tyres and lower pressures, unless you’re offended by stem spacers or are a nervous descender.
Good advice. When I was racing years ago and rode a Pinarello with the same goemetry as the Deutsche Telekom team bikes at the time. It was so uncomfortable that I finally stopped riding it and then moved over to MTB. Too many people buy into the marketing hype generated by the TDF riders and the bikes they ride, but as you say, they don't think through enough about what they really need. Endurance bikes are great, I rode a Cannondale Synapse across the Italian and Swiss Alps in 2020 and agree that the more comfortable you are, the faster you will ultimately be in the end.
Even gravel bikes are becoming stupidly racier nowadays, what a shame. They just don't work with my super long legs and quite average/short torso and arms. I ended up designing a Titanium bike that I would call an Endurance Gravel bike (super high stack of 600mm, short reach of 379mm with top tube of only 540mm, upright seatpost at 75 deg, relaxed steerer at 71.5 deg, clearance for 50mm tires). The bike I have dreamed for years. Hope I can build it over the next few weeks, and this time with an almost slammed headset ... Because the frame allows :)
Finally the right way! I'm proud to be une of the first one that had buy the first Trek Madone model back in 2012 ...also made in USA with life long warranty! It was very more comfortable than the madone and since than I had very good ride over many mithic roads across Alps and some gravel not programmed stuff all with great confidence. I'm very happy not to be alone!
I'm in my late 40's and I still ride a bike with fully slammed stem at a negative angle. Would I be more comfortable in an upright position? Sure. But that's not why I have a road bike. If I want comfort, I'll take the beach cruiser out for a spin instead. When I'm on the road bike, I'm looking to go fast, comfort is a second priority. If my road bike was more comfortable but less speedy, I'd enjoy it *less* and probably be *less* excited to ride it. I think that applies to most roadies, in fact. After all, this sport is type 2 fun, we relish the soreness. As long as my body is still able to ride for 3-4 hours at a time in this position, I'll keep this riding in an aggressive position.
I'm 69 ,there is 10cms between the top of my saddle and the top of the stem, always on the drops, if you're flexible as i am from the hips, you're OK !😊😊😊
The only bike I’ve got with a slammed negative stem is a Giant Defy that never leaves my trainer now. That does look better than my TCR with spacers. Next time I need a road bike, it will probably be endurance geo, as long as it’s still a fast bike.
I bought a Rondo Hvrt a few years ago based on your great review and Bike of the Year award. I absolutely love it - the adjustable Endurance or Race setup choice makes it so versatile and I love putting in the 650B wheels with super wide tyres for wicked gravel rides. I love it! I've ridden 100plus miles in great comfort.
I just got a Trek SLR Domane last June. Came from Cervelo S2 the last 8 years. I could never really get comfortable with the Cervelo, but it was fast. Usually got neck pain even with the stem flipped. NO neck pain with the Trek, nearly as fast even with 32mm tires and A LOT more enjoyable to ride. Also I ride 50/34 11-34. I crack up seeing guys with bigger chain rings nearly cross chaining riding cadence way too low.
Completely agree.. And it’s frustrating that some endurance bike are still getting a bit racy. For me, the Defy is now a touch to long and low. I went from F8 to Domane.. Okay, the Trek does n’t have zip the Pina has, but I tend to be quicker over all, as the Domane floats over the rough and is so easy to descend fast on. I look forward to multi days on the Trek, unlike the Dogma.. Unfortunately the pro peloton sells more bikes than a bike fit 🤷🏻♂️
Endurance bikes are made to suit different types of riders, some like the latest Defy are tailored more towards the sporty rider who basically wants a race bike but with a bit more comfort for going fast over long distances. There are plenty of young fit riders now competing in ultra distance races for example, where a classic race bike isn’t quite ideal, but a sporty endurance bike is. Others like the Domane or Roubaix are more relaxed geometry that’s more suited to less flexible riders and those who ride at a more leisurely pace. There is plenty of space in the market for different types of endurance bike, not every one has to be really short reach and high stack.
I have a Ribble Titanium Endurance bike, after having a Cannondale Super Six Evo the Ribble is such a blessing, so comfortable and nice to live with. There is no question however over a timed, uniformed course at the same power output the Cannondale was faster about the equivalent of 2 minutes over 40km. FYI
90% of my riding is on my 'endurance' bike. But only because I don't want to wear out my nice race bike components for commutes. So it isn't that it's not as comfortable as I'm just as comfortable on both for all day rides, but that I consider it better so I don't want to use it for usual rides. Almost like a nice suit. Doesn't mean it's less comfortable...but wearing your going out suit to the office makes no sense. I've got $30 wiggle tyres on my endurance bike. I've got $80 ones on my race bike. To say, I don't think it's as black and white as endurances get used more because they are more comfortable. if money was no object I'd ride the race bike everywhere.
I agree for most non pro riders. I just bought a second hand bmc team machine while im in Toulon for a month. Its my first road/race bike in a while, at home I have a trek 520 disk and love it. Its a completely different animal but if i was out for a big day solo would 100% take comfort and sacrifice speed.
I have a bike custom-made based on the Soma Wolverine 4.0 frame design: RD Broski sliding dropouts, split in chainstay for belt drive upgrade, monster cross, off road touring, road and gravel riding. It fits all these categories. I guess it's also endurance, the frame is Ti.
I think that the recent bikes change the feeling on the road. The large tyre of 28 or 30 mm with low inflation (4 at 5.5 bars) make a general impression of feeling a smooth bike if you compare with the 23 mm type at 7 bars. The confort is now also on the race bike except some aero models. Because the last question is the drop who depend of flexibility, age, osteoarthritis, and off course duration of ride. I have 57 i run the Giant Defy 2020 (endurace bike) with the most low position of handelbar, 28 mm tyres and 1,5 kg wheels Mavic Ksyrium SL. When i'm good i run at 28km/h during 2 hours. I think that the limit is not my bike, but my 82 kg (1,73 m) and my âge. I think that the TCR (race bike) would'nt do me any good. I agree with bike radar. Thanks.
thanks, I was thinking my RC520 lack in performance, your video made me realized, comfortable equals efficiency equals higher average speed for the most of us.
Remember when you buy a bicycle, you are not Greg LeMond and you will never be Greg LeMond. For most of us it’s not about speed, it about comfort. The more comfortable you are the more you will ride and that’s what it’s all about. Don’t bother if you dig your bike out, dust it off and go 5 miles, a couple times a year. Try to ride 3 to 4 times a week. Give yourself time to notice the difference and your improvements. You will get better. When you do you will ride more because you will love what it does for your body and mind.
I just got a new Scott Addict 10 and it’s a total game changer, loving the endurance gearing and geometry. My other bike is a Giant Revolt 2 gravel bike and it’s great for those windy days when I want to hide from the wind in the trails. No aero bike here!
Great video! I totally agree with it. I'm the proud owner of a Bianchi Infinito XE. Very comfortable, not sluggish at all and can take 32mm tires if you are so inclined.
I agree. But the question will always remain ' am i going as quickly as i could be? Is this the fastest tool for the job?' While these questions are present , Endurance bikes will never truly be the one and only option.
If speed matters to you then it matters to you. It’s absolutely legitimate! I have two race bikes - an aero bike and a hill climber and had them fitted so they are comfortable. I’m 60 but my back is still fine and I LOVE to go fast. I tried the Defy and honestly it felt slow to me. Ride what you love!
At 63, endurance geometry is my first choice. I can still go plenty fast on a bike that's more stable and a bit cushier. I have a 2000 Allez Pro M4 with 39/53 and 11-21 9-speed. It's fast, stiff, twitchy, and really gets power down; it's a lot of fun to ride for 90 minutes or so. Its chainstays measure 400mm and its wheel base is not quite 1000cm. My favorite road bike is my Battaglin San Luca with 36/50 and 11-27 11-speed, in Columbus steel with 410mm chainstays and a 1030mm wheelbase. The longer chainstays and especially that additional 30mm of wheelbase make a big difference in ride quality but give away nothing in terms of speed or perceived power transfer. Or maybe it's the Columbus steel. It's all the above, no doubt.
I'm only in my 40's, and got a steel bike with "sensible"/"middle of the road" geometry. After getting steel, I'm never going back. The bike itself soaks up the poor surface roads I ride on, and my position gives me a good balance between efficiency and comfort. Even if I give up a little speed, the comfort that combination gives makes everything so much more enjoyable; I can comfortably go farther and for longer. It's great.
I have a 2019 Cannondale Synapse and it's by far the most comfortable bike I've ever ridden. I do 95% of my riding on it these days and, if I ever upgrade, will look for something very similar. My other bike is a 1988 Colnago, however, and it's notably faster and more lively when I take it out. Were I racing again, I'd want the modern equivalent, but suspect I'll never see a peloton from the inside ever again.
Although I’m not cycling much now due to health reasons I have loved my only drop bar leisure road bike, an All City Mr Pink, 48/34 Sugino, SRAM Force gearing, 30mm Strada tyres… it does exactly what you are advocating and I had that set up a decade ago for the rough old roads here in rural New Zealand. Plenty of oldies like me out there on carbon bikes and skinny tyres, they need watch this video.
100% Correct. I have been riding racing configurations for decades and almost annually ripped the rear derailleur off the frame sprinting up hills. I also break spokes every season due to the rough roads I ride on. In addition, I tend to jump the curb on the city streets around here. So, after a mechanical failure in a group ride, a Trec salesman sold me a Domaine, and I was delighted. I agree the ride is comfortable and I have fewer mechanical issues. I ride in the A/drop groups and have no issue staying in the pacelines and little peletons that develop. I see many guys/gals with race configurations with carbon fiber rims who clearly are not racers. They are (ahem) a bit tubby. These wheels' "Aero" benefits only kick in at about 20mph. Instead of spending several thousand dollars on fancy aero tires, they should get a personal trainer and try to drop that belly.
Well said. I personally ride a 2020 Giant Revolt Advanced 2. Over the years, it has been kitted out, and the only remaining stock part is the stem, lol. 650b Hunt Mason X Adventure Sport wheels for the dirty stuff, Zipp 303s for the tarmac. The only handicap road or gravel is me, lol.
Incredible! Great post/video, w proven facts and thorough explanation. And I’ll share (briefly) my own experience. I “accidentally” bought an endurance bike- (not knowing) “exactly” what I was specifically buying. But having read the specs, and test ride the bike- and….Aaaaand logically “buying into” the style it self-I went: well, I want longer comfortable rides, Endurance bike is what I want. Right of the bat- the bike/frame-felt incredible. It was like-as if I was flying, on a flat road, not a descend. I wanted to test a true race bike-for comparison, honestly-not even close. The best choice I’ve made. And this post proves it!
I got properly into cycling in lockdown. My hybrid commuter took me so far and then I had the long wait as road bikes were in short supply. The power of marketing is phenomenal. I ignored pure aero and tourers. After that I did my best to pick my way through the reviews and had a Boardman SLR 9.4 and a Vitus Vitesse lined up. The Vitus won as it was in stock (and I was seduced by the romance it was Sean Kelly’s brand). I’ve no idea how my reach and stack match up to an endurance geometry. I thought those two were pretty similar. I do know my bike is great fun and I’m happy.
When i got my ORRO Venturi STC i realized i had the perfect bike that was both comfortable on any ride and aero. After not using it for full 6 months I ended up selling my canyon endurance. I totally agree that for us mortals comfort is what we should prioritize if we can also have aero and a great looking bike as in my case then i think it's optimal.
I agree on the gearing. I'm 60 years old and my FTP is around 200-215, somewhere in there. I never use my hardest gears. Usually when I'm descending I'm freewheeling, recovering from the climb I just did, not cranking down the hill! I would be better off two teeth less in the front and two teeth more in the back! Hahaha!
I bought a Domane last year and had the bike shop exchange the factory standard 11-34 cassette with an 11-36 as I live in a quite hilly area. I love the comfort of the endurance geometry and I love the fact that I can spin up most hills without completely knackering myself. I don't know if that is considered cheating, and I don't really care either as it means I get out there much more frequently and enjoy it so much more.
I currently own about 40 bikes... and have owned roughly 400 to 500 bikes in my life... most of them in the past 15 years... most of the carbon road bikes. I agree with most of this video but of course it depends on the rider (age, speed, power output) where they live (flat or hilly our mountainous) and what type of riding they mainly do (solo, group, road, gravel, touring, racing, gran fondo, centuries, etc). One reason I have so many bikes is that I have homes in 3 different states--all with completely different climates and topography--ranging from beach house in Hawaii to a city house in the Rockies... so I need a pretty wide range of bikes. I do fast group rides in the city--with sprint zones up to the mid to high 30 mph range--and solo canyon rides from 5000 up to 10000+ ft--with descents up to 45+ mph on twisty mountain roads. And of course mountain and gravel riding as well.. and some slower century rides through the countryside or along the ocean. So, yeah, I agree that the "average" non-professional rider--if having to choose just ONE bike--should probably choose something in the endurance / gravel capable orientation... but if you have the means and the garage space and you do a variety of different riding, a nice, fast racing bike never hurts--for the shorter, sprintier group training rides--and a nice, ultra-light (15 lbs or less) climbing bike with the right gear ratios (50t up front with 11-32 in the back) is a must have. One thing I would add to the video is that you don't need to go out and buy an expensive new bike. For $500-ish you can buy an AMAZING bike--Tour-de-France / pro-level bike--from 10 or 15 yrs ago--that is STILL WAY MORE BIKE than most of us need. I pick them up all the time... Trek Madone 6.9 w/ full Dura Ace... for $500... $600... $700-ish if you want nice carbon wheels. Or a smokin' hot S-Works Epic for under $1000... full carbon / full XTR / full suspension / under 24 pound rocket... etc. In America at least there are TONS of amazing used bikes for sale at GREAT prices. So... why not have a really sweet bike for all occasions?
Bike fit specialists recommend that riders with proporsionally shorter legs and longer torso take a race geometry bike. For example Tarmac instead of Roubaix.
100% agree. The only thing is on my defy I changed the 11-34 cassette to a 11-30 because on the 11 speed the 11 13 15 jump in ratios on the top end drove me crazy. On the new 12 speeds it's not an issue. Run a compact 50/34 crank
Canyon Endurace 2018 model with disc and a 12mm stem. 52/36 and 11/32. Its geometry is basically identical to the Ultimate and it’s a race bike with 30 mm tire clearance. I’ve also ridden light gravel with it on 25 mm tires with no problems.
I have just bought the new Giant Defy Pro 0. As it s winter here in Canada I have yet to try it. My other bike is a Giant TCR Pro. As I am turning 70 next fall I wanted a more comfortable bike for long rides, especially on the poor condition roads in Quebec.
I agree on the fact that comfort makes most of us faster. However, after riding a year of races on a Canyon Endurace I switched to a gravel bike with similar geometry and I love it. I do retain the comfort, but I also have two wheelsets that allow me to fit 28mm tires for a gran fondo, or swap in my 38mm’s to take a good amount of offroad. Best balance in my book.
You're right. I've owned all type of bikes in the recent years, all carbon with ultegra level builds. After riding for years and trying different bikes, I'm convinced that I need a modern endurance bike, nothing Else. Comfort and distance riding is key. The whole nimble handling and aggressive position is only for racing conditions, which few people do.
Thing I found I bought the race bike which was an amazing tool of torture same as sports motorbike too, I’m 50 years old and have accepted I’m fat slow always last in the pack regardless of bike so I ride what’s comfortable now and I’m not obsessed by watts or power or speed and cycle with people of similar mindset. Forget the latest trends go out and enjoy your ride
I have owned two Domanes and recently bought a Giant Revolt gravel bike. Truth is, the more comfortable the bike is, the more you will ride it. I am 61 for reference.
Sloaping top tube is the best thing ever. You can get the cockpit higher, but don't have to look at a spacer stack :D I only have something like 10mm of spacers under the stem and I can ride on the drops for ages. In fact, I have all positions in full use and alternate between them all the time.
This is incredibly sensible and logical advice for (dare I say +90%) of riders out there. However I am equally certain that +90% will ignore it. “Looking pro” on a Sunday morning ride is the most important thing to many. We all know the rider with the lateset gear getting dropped and then claiming a heavy night out or that their CTL, ATL, TSS are slightly off that day…😂
I like to have a cx bike for gravel. An endurance like roubaix for commuting not to be afraid of sidewalks etc. And a proper road bike a bit less relaxed. Everything over 10years, for less than 1000 dollars
Have the same year TCR and DEFY and honestly...couldn't tell the difference between them on 300km+ rides. So there goes the whole comfort thing. I'm not enough of a rider to push the TCR to where it'd probably need to be to see the difference in speed/feel re crit racing though. But marketing is marketing and everyone is everyone.
A +17 degrees 90mm stem on my Emonda made the bike more comfortable than my Giant Defy with a +6 degrees 80mm stem on it. Both have uncut steer tubes. Emonda has a smaller setback on the seat mast at 10mm. The defy D Fuse seat post is 14mm setback.
I have ridden a Specialized Secteur for more than 10 years and updated to a Rose Pro SL. Both endurance „entry level“ bikes with 105 gearing and relaxed geometry. I can still ride plenty fast if I want to and achieved decent fitness, which is more than enough for me as a dad of 3 with limited riding time available.
In your example of the Giant, the smaller large chaining (43) with even smaller sprocket(10) is a misguided way to weight-savings, not needed in this category. A 53x12 weighs only grams more, but a 11t or 12t starting sprocket is more efficient (the other sprockets will also be the next size up, so same gear range). It also makes for more durability where the deivetrain has longer wear. Durability here, and better efficiency as a free benefit, seem more important in this category. In case you're unaware, when you get to 11 and under, the sprocket is less round and starts to cost in efficiency, 11t having been chosen as the smallest for this reason, and has remained so for a very long time. This "compact" setup is a fad, thanks to ignorance and marketing.
I'm in this camp, just from the gravel bike as an all road bike perspective. Where I live in Ontario, the nearest gravel road is about 1.5 km away and takes me on glorious rides along Lake Eries shoreline. I've done long road rides with almost slick tyres, but mostly have a set of Rene Herse Steilacoom 700Cx38 tyres on that I'm too lazy to switch out. My bike is steel and a decade old now, but there's no reason it couldn't last the rest of my life. (Don't misunderstand that comment, it may not be my only or my last bike.............). I do get to ride in the UK occasionally (challenging as SW Ontario doesn't have hills) and your roads are certainly no better than ours, the condition of which means that you have to concentrate so hard on the road bike, to avoid the potholes and construction defects that it detracts from the ride. And the benefit of losing a few grams from a bike would be far outweighed by losing a couple of kilos from me.
Completely happy with my SL7; its the perfect Sportif bike. I have a gravel, Fat, mtb, zwift and trainer SL7 for everything else. The switch to 28mm tubeless and low psi is the key.
People have to be brutally honest with themselves about the type of riding they will do. Last year I bought an all-road hike with an enormous 1100mm wheelbase and forgiving geometry. Best decision ever. Plenty of comfort and all the speed I need.
Using trickle down racing bikes for recreational riding is and always has been ridiculous. I was a pro ultra-marathon cyclist using typical road racing bikes. Today as a recreational riding I rig hardtail mountain bikes with bar ends and aero-bars, use adjustable stems to find a compromise in height for the drastic change in positions. Comfort comes from 26x2 road tires at 60psi which are usually faster than racing 700c tires over the less than perfect roads I search for away from traffic. Finish the bike with SPD pedals a rear rack so I can carry rain and cold gear as well as tools, tubes and pump. Add some very strong heavy duty wheels and bottle cages. Then add my choice of gearing. These bikes are so inexpensive that I have 4 of them all set up slightly differently with different saddles handlebar widths and seat height. I also use different shorts from day to day. ALL this means I don't force the body into the same position for riding from bike to bike and from flat bar, to bar end, to aero-bar. Each bike when fully equipped costs $1000US. These bikes are built around the tires, important because I will only use Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires. I have heard people complain about these tires, but if you are using the 26x2 (which have a diameter almost the same as a 700cx25) even heavy riders have a full range of pressures. I am a bodybuilder today at 6 foot tall and 200pounds, and use 60psi. This bike also has a lock-out fork suspension that can be turned on when needed. The bikes is comfortable, long wheelbase, fast rolling and the strongest road bike in the world (after modifications). I live in the extremes of mountains where 4 mountain ranges meet with contrast from valley floor at 700 feet to 15,000 mountain top. So my gearing is 24-34-44 / 12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23 cassette. High gears for time trialing at 30mph and low gears for our 12 mile climbs at 10% grade. But this gearing is also perfect for cruising flats, there is always a perfect gear from one extreme to the other. DAMN those stupid 1X's, instead I have a full range with very tightly spaced ratio's. No hand stress with the aero position, and great control with flat bars from descents that last 20 minutes. Road bars, road bikes, thin weak tires, no space for rain/warm gear, I got rid of my last road bike last year, no need for that stupid bike anymore. Road, gravel, touring, sport,; doesn't matter what you call them they are all worthless to the rec rider who wants to do some long mileage in extremes of terrain or any terrain.
100% agree about the gears. It makes no sense, the gears that come on all road bikes. Normal people should have below 1:1 ratio. I meant to get a 32-48 chainring and ended up with 30-46 (32 cog on the rear) and I never spin out on the flats. Unless you ride in a peloton at 30 mph (99% of riders don't) then your gears are too big.
My ex's father changed my beach bike to a random mtb/road bike( it has suspention, thin tires) he had lying around his bike shop. It's been 10 years, and it's my main source of transportation, yes, even for cargo. Had to make a few changes and mods and it rides like a dream. 20-28 km/h on average is a great result for me 😊 i do think i have to change the suspention soon. The pipe is getting rusty😢
While I agree I still bought an Aethos, those endurance bikes are just heavier and just don't look as good, they should make an Aethos with a bigger headtube and those will sell like cake.
I am the commuter type of cyclist. For me it's just a mode of transport whenever the distance isn't too far. But expanding the "not too far" range is where an appropriate bike comes into play. I just got my eyes on a travel bike. Looks as comfortable as a drop bar bike can possibly be, with 29" by 2.25" tyres. It triggers a "must have" reflex. I just have to clear out my garage first.
Seven years ago, I bout a Cube Attain GTC Pro based on Warren's review. 50/34, 11-32 and clearance for 32c. Its as good now as it was then. I've upgraded the wheels to Hunt Mason X Four Seasons and plopped some ultegra level brifters on there. The temptation to upgrade to something with eTap or Di2 is there, bit the return on investment just doesn't justify it.