You Won't BELIEVE why this Volvo Doesn't Start... (Part 2: XC90 Long Crank/Stall) 

I cannot thank Ivan enough to fix this car and gave it a new life. The days of not knowing when/whether it would start were gone. It was embarrassing to keep cranking while at a gas station or anywhere else for 5+ minutes without success. I wish I had sent the car to PHD 3 years ago. I think very few mechanics have the patience, skill and talent to handle tough-to-fix cars. Ivan is definitely one of those.

Ivan, if there’s only one thing I ever learned from watching you, is to CLEAN THE GROUNDS!

I am 78 years old. I learned when I was around 12 that good grounds mean everything when you are dealing with a mere 12 volts. Resistance can defeat 12 volts, and newer cars use a lousy 5 volts for a ref voltage. I remove and clean the ground straps on my trucks every year. I coat them with anti-seize and tighten them securely.

I am glad there will be a part three. I thought there is probably more mistakes made by the previous mechanic.

For all the DIY mechanics out there, the first thing I do when I get a new/used vehicle is locate ALL the grounds I can get to. Remove them, clean to nice clean metal, lube the connectors and the body grounds, bolts, etc., with NO-OX-ID and re-attach. Unless the cables snap off, or are cut off, you've eliminated any grounding problems forever. When you replace starters, etc, use the NO-OX-ID on all those connections as well.

Crazy how sensitive some components can be to ground current flow. Nicely done Ivan.

Many would throw parts in...many would call it a bust, no fix.......This proves the need for thinking outside the box...ground control to Major Ivan...well done

Poor grounding is always a lurking problem, especially up there in the rust belt. Thanks for the lesson, Ivan. Love your channel! 👍

Great diag and partial fix Ivan. One quick, cheap, and not so dirty way to test for a bad or inconsistent ground connections between the engine block, or transmission case, and body is to take a bog standard jump lead, clip one end to a clean spot on the engine/transmission and clip the other end to a clean bolt on the body, or even directly to the battery negative terminal. If that works you can chase down where the ground straps are and clean/replace them, or even add some more if desired.

Talking earths reminded me of a mistake I made replacing the starter on my Metro (UK). All ok till I went out in the evening with the headlights on. Next thing I know, the throttle pedal gets sticky so without thinking, I gave it a tap with my foot to rev it. The pedal went to the floor and stayed there, the car accelerated of down the road at full throttle, eventually I stood on the brakes but it still kept going. Just before I ran off the road at a corner, I turned off the ignition and just ran up the verge a bit as the steering lock came on!. After changing my trousers, I found that I had not connected the starter earth causing the current to flow up the throttle cable. OK till I turned the headlights on, causing it to get so hot the cover melted seizing the cable at full throttle. Could have quite serious but now an amusing story for the lads. Enjoy lol.

So the initial look saw no hacks jobs like the other Volvo, but it was even worse when it's not obvious. It took time and all is well. Great job Ivan I enjoyed this journey

Ivan, you definately a Master Tech and has so much patience. Excellent video and learned so much from your previous videos. Plase keep it up. Absolute genius.

Quite common on European cars, the ground cable goes from battery earth to the body then continues onto the transmission or engine block. This is a failure point because the engine rocks and gradually the strands in the cable by its fixing start to break (Audi VW group, Peugeot Citroen Renault and Nissan ). In virtually every case I had to deal with a new battery had been fitted. On my own Citroen as a precaution I installed a cable from the battery to the cylinder head and one to the body , I did notice the lights were brighter.. Also Volvo were close to Renault and shared some parts. It was quite common to have bad crank sensors , easy to diagnose as there was no rev counter flicker, so much so many kept a spare sensor and 10mm spanner in the glove box !!

It is nice that your friend could give you some insight to the cause of the problems plaguing the Volvo. Now, I hope the owner will address the rest of the issues caused by the former work done to the vehicle.

Maddening! I'm sure owner paid good $$$$ to get the rear main seal fixed, only to have a half-assed repair. Bolts left off bell housing causing other issues. smh. Fortunate to have other Volvo there and helpful to have friend to drop some valuable tsb knowledge on you. Kudos to the commenter on first vid mentioning ground contacts. I'll be checking next one. Seems you may have a Va. Volvo diagnosis/repair pipeline going. 😀

Ivan, you impress with each diagnosis and repair. I really like that you typically wrap up with careful thinking … like a lessons learned session. Also, I would never have thought to epoxy that broken holder for the crank position sensor but it makes sense and saves your customer the cost of a replacement and the time to source one. Thanks for bringing us along for the ride.

As a subscriber i dont know why u dont get a million views i remember seeing you on SMA 8 yrs ago good work

I wrenched for 45 yrs. plus and learned you can't take nothing for granted. Who would have thought the starter cranks over fine but it still wasn't a good enough ground! Good job!!

Ivan! As working in automation industry from long time and plc programmer i noticed proximity sensor is mounted in a plastic housing instead of metal..as i know these sensors if you mount it in a electrically noisy environment it gose nuts even small magnetic field disturb its performance thats why 3 wire proximity switch is better and most use that now.cheers waiting for final results

Great case study Ivan. I really enjoy watching you apply engineering logic and principles in your work. It’s fantastic. I’m guessing very few auto techs would be able to track down a bad ground like you did even if you got a tip from a friend.

Ivan, I have a 2004 Volvo V 70, a few years ago I had a cranking starting issue. I searched it, and finally came across to one Internet conversation that said the starter when it wears out, starts to draw more amperage and interferes with the crank sensor wire, I replaced the starter and all the problems were fixed. Anyhow the crank sensor wire is very close to the starter and the electronic interference causes crank issues. The ground for the starter and shielding for the crank wire is important. You stumbled on some thing that not many people know about at all, very good diagnosing skills you have.

You are a 'tenacious kind of guy'. Many, and that includes me, would have given up a long time before we went that far. You're a good technician. Two thumbs up.

The rabbit hole of bad power grounds, but this was very elaborate, because the sensor was right in the middle of the ground path. Great job, Ivan! Now on to problem #2 - start/stall. It sounds like fuel thirsty but, who knows - you always surprise me with odd causes :-)

Good hunting Ivan! I often will add additional grounds, especially with trunk mounted battery, on older vehicles (Miatas).

I suppose I shouldn't be. But I'm amazed at just how many cars you repair that come down to almost criminal work from another shop/mechanic!

Had a Subaru setting a code for the upstream 02 sensor which the dealer replaced. Car ended up here & i found both engine to subframe grounds rotted off. Replaced both grounds & the O2 sensor cleared! Nice diag Ivan I feel your pain!

Wow) the extra injectors pulse surprised me, never seen that before (diesel engine -yes, gasoline- no). It’s good to know. That’s why PHAD is my favorite yt channel. Free awesome knowledge, who wouldn’t like to get it?

Eric O is really good with finding ground problems but I think even this one would have had him stumped.Cheers. It will be good to see what is stopping it idle now.

Thanks Ivan, another good example of logical circuit analysis. Two symptoms pointed toward that degrading circuit (aka ground): 1. The problem degraded with time, 2. the problem changed with temperature of the engine. (These are small signal sensors, so the signal strength seen at the computer was degrading by means of common mode noise.) When the customer paid for an oil seal and received the car with an issue ( long crank time before start ) they should have insisted on analysis. Of course, with the sloppy work that you found I expect the customer may have not received any satisfaction.

Morning dude ! Good old fashioned sunday morning entertainment good to see someone whos walks the walk..

Great video Ivan as always, it's good to have people in the industry that we can talk to. Todays vehicles are so complex that even the simple bad ground can cause so many issues. Going to watch part 3 .

My wife's 2004 Volvo XC90 has been having the same issue you've discussed.... you provided an excellent detailed approach to diagnostics. Thank you so very much! ROCK ROQUÉ

Great diag. Supports importance of good grounding with all the electronics on new cars. 1 volt drop on ground during crank was a clue. Wonder what that would have been if scope ground was at Battery? Ivan usually shoots for less than 1/2 volt ground drop. Adding another ground strap to engine bolt may be beneficial to prevent future problems when age and corrosion come to call again. Maybe also check ground wire to ECM ground point from body and ground at Battery to body. Can’t wait for part #3.

Ground problems. Good old ground problems! Throw in electronics with a "sensitive" ground point or "must see this absolute no-higher ground point"(such as no higher above ground than 10mv) and here we go with "not-so-fancy" brackets allowing extra micro volt and micro amp drops, all equaling a long crank/hard start. Where others would have quit, YOU are persistent! Very Good Fix Ivan, Very Good Fix ! ! ! I need to make a diagnostic chart for a hard or no start, using this video's steps. I've only seen a few like this at work before retirement, but when dealing with milivolts, miliamps, micro volts and micro amps, every electrical connection is on the list of potential problems. ESPECIALLY DURING CRANKING! My apology for the long comment.

At minute 6:29 I see Ivan you had the ckp sensor inside a magnet tray, that is very danger for the sensor I have seen it multiple times before whem you place them near to any magnet devise , the magnet on the sensor can chage polarity and give you inverted sigal messing with the computer clock programming. Nice case study thanks for sharing 6:29 g 👍

I've got similar signal codes from the crank sensor and coil packs when I purchased it. Currently tracing all wires from sensors to the ecu to check for continuity issues. But this video was helpful to add some depth to the task and avoid missing important checks, especially the ground wires. Much respect from Cape Town, South Africa

I can’t believe the shoddy mechanics out there. When I was in business and had a shop I took pride in my work. Maybe it’s because I was an aircraft mechanic before I worked on cars and had extreme discipline in reassembly. Now I am too old to do this work and I have to rely on Mickey Mouse to fix my cars. I would go nuts thinking they left bolts out of my cars. Ivan I see you were raised right and have the same ethics that I had. If you were an aircraft mechanic I would never worry about the plane I am flying in. You are one heck of a great mechanic.

Even I as a woman know to stop when the temp gauge acts wonky. I had a leak in the coolant reservoir and found it quickly cause my temp gauge started dancing around, never to the point of overheating. I pulled off at the next exit and put some water in. As they didn’t have antifreeze. I know water is better than nothing. When running low. I made it back home and found micro cracks in the reservoir.

Grounds, and electrical connections in general, seem more important with all the computers nowadays. Great work, Ivan!!

There's an old TSB about this, I couldn't find it on VIDA, but its there. EDIT: never mind, just read the video description and got to 16:45.

As a tech myself. Mostly ford. I really enjoy your videos. Please please keep filming !!! We need you !!

First of all congratulations, you fixed it, this is a totally surprising one where any part can be replaced easily, bcuz of no service info😇 Great work as usual BRO😍

I have seen a bad ground cable/connection or even a failing starter motor cause a long crank and or not start on volvos. But I have never seen missing eng/trans bolts and poor contacts causing it so that’s a first for me. I’ll keep it in mind when doing things like clutches or diagnostics 👍.

I have watched all your videos since last December, you live in a salt state or heavy corrosion area, I don't remember you ever adding any redundant grounds or jumper cables from the battery GND to the engine block for example, maybe you have? I lived in Japan for 20 years and repaired many ground problems with an EARTHING KIT and found the problem by jumping the engine to the battery or body/chassis and the Tokyo area is more famous for salt sea air and surface corrosion. Throwing on a set of jumper cables is one of my first steps. Thank you for the hundreds of awesome videos, hope to meet you when I move back to the USA someday in the near future, currently in the Philippines. Out of 200 technician/diagnostician (no DIYers) Channels, you are my #1, cheers.

Not that I would have ever found this... My 2010 Yamaha fjr1300. As a known similar problem to such an extent that the previous owner to me had the entire wiring harness rebuilt ... My bike has like 7 known ground places that you have really have to watch out for corrosion... I also used to own a 91 Corvette... It was also known for a few suddenly had problems with the engine not starting you had to really take a look at the ground first.... Again I would never offend the problem you did on the Volvo even with this information in the back of my head. Awesome job my friend

Its always convenient when you have the right tool in stock to make a job go smoothly like the pilot brush and ratcheting end wrench. That pilot brush might just be the norm when cars come in for repairs...first thing, clean up those grounds once determined by visual inspection. Time for an oil and filter change and maybe a fresh tank of gas. Tire pressures likely need looked into.

Nice find Ivan. I'm shocked that this is not a TSB. Because it happens A LOT. If you separate the engine from the trans, you absolutely have to clean the mating surfaces before you put them back together. And securing all the case bolts is necessary. All the engine electronics get the bulk of the ground through that mating surface. Sure, there are a couple of support grounds from the valve cover to the body, but they are not enough to overcome the draw from the starter. I've spent nearly 13 years working on nothing but those Volvo's. So if you need a spot of advice, I believe I can be of help. The last issue has to be one of 2 things. Either the MAS is bad. Which is kind of rare. Or there is a massive air leak somewhere after the MAS housing, to the throttle body. Most likely, one of the boost hoses have come off or has broken. I'm really looking forward to part three. You're in my wheelhouse now and this is great stuff for me. Thanks for sharing Ivan.

Great video Ivan and I have already checked my Volvo 3.0 -ve straps! All good thankfully and no bolts missing from my bell housing! 👍

Powers and GROUNDS 🙂 Great vid, Ivan!!

Thanks for the shoutout Ivan. I’m a Volvo fanatic and I’m glad I could help. Awesome video!

Great work, including knowing who to chat with and the need for more info! Think about this: in our daily lives, what do we interface with that is more complicated than a vehicle? Computers and cell phones operate in much more ideal conditions, and don't interface with anything mechanical!

Ivan, your channel and your humility are infectious. I came across an s80 with the t6. And as it came out of your mouth about the tsb, I went "oh, yeah..I remember that." I had the same symptoms. However, I gave up on it because I didn't want to reseat the transmission which is what the tsb says to do. And, I'll be damned to find you discovered it was just the shitty ground wire connections. I didn't fix it and donated the car. Arrgh I with I had it back now. It was mad fast when it worked.

A wise -old- young Russian gentleman once had a RU-vid channel, and he often said *Powers and Grounds* . Hmm, who could that be. 😆 - I'm enjoying this one Ivan. Good Job!

Ground is ground the world around....except when it isn't ground! Great job.

Ivan, I see this issue becoming more commonplace as auto technology advances. Noise on the line is corrupting the data feeding into the ECU. It becomes worse when the impedance for the data inputs at the ECU are higher. Ferrite beads, twisted pair and bypass capacitors are often not designed into the circuit due to profit margins. That starter is producing a ton of noise from the brushes arcing and Volvo is relying solely on the ground connection to shunt that noise. I might suggest a ground strap between the transmission and the engine and also a 0.1uF capacitor right at the positive connection of the starter and the other capacitor lead connected to a ground bold (again at the starter) to give that noise a dead short. This will keep the noise from propagating through the data lines. It forms a RC type low pass filter. Without that capacitor (actually should be one inside the starter....but that's another story), it is up to the very low impedance of the ground connection to provide an easy path for the noise to go to ground an not to the ECU. The problem is, even if there is a low DC ohmic value on the ground, there is generally higher ohmic value at RF (noise) due to wire length (inductance). This was a GREAT video series. Wishing you continued success. 😎👍

Years ago we had a 4.6 in a mustang come in after an engine install we found the wiring for the can link to close to the alternator moved to the correct routing and ran fine

Great diagnostic. You called me the regional Saturn Astra tech. I think you have become the regional Volvo tech.

It’s nice to have a known good signal for scope work, more so when your working on something unfamiliar.

Also, pls think about Installing some "Ground Strap" connectors between the engine and the transmission housing....amybe a few more locations....You Decide! You never quit, you always WIN!!!

Interesting. Reminds me of an exhaust gas temperature (EGT) sensor in an airplane that works on millivolts like a flame sensor in a furnace. If you have a bad ground anywhere near that thing, it will let you know. I wonder in modern cars with all the electronics if checking and cleaning grounds goes near the top of the diag tree.

I would add another earth from main earth to bell housing with jump lead. Bad maf can also make car run poor . I know you're a top notch tech .But I like to add a comment every now and then.😁

Well, it wouldn't be PHAD if there's part 3, lol. Interesting diagnosis! Bad ground! Not bolting up all the parts back in is sloppy work!! Great to see it fired right up! Awesome part 2!! Great video Ivan!

I like the sound of the good old volvo 2.5 5 cylinder engine. My dad had one in his Renault safrane it was 170 bhp none turbo but went well. I had an intermittent fault crank sensor on a 2.0l hdi Peugeot 406. You could move the body of the sensor and get the resistance to change when you measured it with an ohm meter. But the fault code was crank and cam sensor so I just replaced both with genuine Peugeot ones they were about £50 for both and it's just not worth getting stranded. The good thing was the fault appeared on the drive on starting than goodness.

Had the same issue with my Xc70 It wasn't a ground cable that caused the issue. It was the missing bolt. In my case all bolts were there but not tight enough. Added extra 30lbs to all of them and cured the car

Interesting case, nice to see the ground fixed but I guess there's more problems.

Maybe I’d run a #4 wire from the engine block to the batt neg, bonded to the trans and body along the way.

It would have been interesting to put the scope between the engine block and chassis ground, see what voltage drop / noise developed there in addition to transmission to chassis.

That has to be the most humbling diag ever! Great job!

Great video! I think I'm experiencing the same issue with my xc90, and your reasoning is very helpful. Would you mind sharing the oscilloscope channel to sensor setup so I can compare what I'm seeing? I'm new to this, need a little bit of help!

This is like the Nissan Maximas , don't remember the years but the fix was to remove transmission and clean both mounting surfaces.

Your Mastery of skill in diagnosing is mind blowing! You are a master diagnostic super hero!

I don’t know about this engine but earlier I think in part one you mentioned about crankshaft oil seal, when I bought my Volvo with a D5 engine my mate who’s a Volvo tech/ manager told me to be very careful with the oil level and told me NEVER fill beyond the full mark infact a little below is best because you’ll blow oil seal’s if you do 😱

I had all sorts of different issues with my 2006 P.T. Cruiser ended up being a bad ground >> one bolt with all the connectors located under the battery tray on the fender well > I added extra ground cables i purchased on eBay >> been perfect ever since ...

The 2.5 VDC bias voltage means the VRS zero cross detect circuit uses a virtual ground at 2.5 VDC (which is one half the 5 VDC supply). This is done to avoid having +/- power supplies on the VRS conditioning and detect circuit. However, after designing several versions of this interface circuit on the bench, I really like the split supply versions because they also support a bi-voltage noise blanker (+/- comparator supply with symmetric hysteresis) which I think is a much better approach. Meaning, the VRS is an AC signal sensor (voltage above and below ground) and it makes more sense to condition the input with an AC type interface circuit. To verify engine positional inputs you should look at both the CNK and the CAM. If the vehicle has variable CAM timing then look at the base or reference CAM signal as a base line. I think the MAF sensor is critical for the cold start strategy. The ECM might use a MAF multiplier based on engine coolant temperature for enrichment during cold start. To not have a dedicated starter return ground wire going back to the battery in the trunk is just crazy. You cannot rely on a chassis return for starter currents. I have never seen this in a post 1990 vehicle with the battery in the trunk. In fact this is one of the very first thing harness engineers (usually as a starting intern before graduation) learn when they start working at the OEM. That is, always establish how load return current flows, especially for heavy loads like the starter, and if you use the chassis as return you essentially do not know the return path, or if the return path is even stable when the body flexes. In fact in moving a battery from under hood to the trunk the starter power feed and return are usually 1 AWG copper. High stranded welding cable is very popular. But, you can also use high stranded tinned marine wire, which is more corrosion resistant. For electrical noise you would want to run the red power feed and the black return next to each other. That is, minimize the circuit loop area. The question I like to ask is why is the unitized steel body shell considered an adequate ground? Steel as compared to copper is not a good conductor, especially for a starter current return. If you modulate the reference ground because of a high common ground impedance (bad connections) and high currents (starter) you will not be able to pick out the CNK signal from the common mode noise. This is why it is crazy to not have a dedicated starter return cable to the battery in the trunk. A good test would be to temporaraly add a large 1 AWG cable from the point on the chassis under hood to the point on the chassis near the battery NEG, essentially shunting out the steel unitized body.

Well SMA worked on a 2018 GM truck with all sorts of problems. Turned out that a breaded ground strap from body to frame corroded so bad it didn't have enough ground. Replaced it with a battery ground cable and it fixed everything. So I'm not suprised this one is having problems because of a ground.

I had a similar ground happen with a 03 Ram that had a Daimler PCB. The grounds had to be impeccable for it to start. The least bit of corrosion and it failed to start. Cleaned the main Ground from frame to engine block . . . and BINGO it started and ran like new.

Your patience is extraordinary.

I'd definitely torque to spec all accessible bellhousing bolts, given that some were missing altogether... Great work and diagnosis!

This is what separates diagnosticians from the hacks that either cause these issues and can't ever solve them or take on the job of fixing the issue only to rack up a huge bill and still fail to solve the issue. A friend and I were just discussing the other night that grounds are nearly always at the root of electrical anomalies, too many mechanics never look at the grounds and therefore never find the problem. In this case @29:35 the anomaly was the fact that the ckp output was correct yet the ECM couldn't see it, and you were intermittently missing injector and coil pulse. And I think if you look farther there were other electrical codes seemingly unrelated to the crank no start that you dismissed early on to focus on the ckp code. Some times trying to evaluate all the codes to find the problem leaves you with no direction, but sometimes only focusing on one code leaves you with tunnel vision blinding you to the big picture.

A PHAD morning video is always entertaining. Thanks Ivan.

I had a similar fight with a Nissan recently. Would loose signal to the back half of the truck . All grounds looked good all grounds passed load tests, but during cranking when i couldn't catch it on my testing equipment i would loose ground . Spent an entire day chasing it then just decided to run a battery ground back to the f.p ground and walaa . Runs like a champ. Ive now built an 8ag 15ft jumper to test with lol.

hi hey a have a question what software is that in your laptop? please help

NOW it really getting interesting,IVAN.I think for a minute there you were actually speechless when it started right up.I thought i saw your chest puff up and the LOOK of WONDERMENT.I felt like what the hell,it couldn't be just the ground could it? I'm guessing here but i thought maybe the flywheel is bent or rust or the sensor ? i would myself take a heat gun to the sensor while scanning it to see if that changes when heated.OH also did you test the ohms on both sensors?Are They only hall effect or what?This video is great cause we can see it's a very tough case to pin down a in your face cause like the crusty s or broken wire,it's how i learn the most,thanks buddy

Ground faults are always interesting. I once encountered that on a car of a friend - turning left caused it to misfire and eventually it also misfired when running. When I connected test probes it started to behave correctly and I finally isolated that to bad grounding of engine ECU.

My early Mazda's also have that low voltage signal on the cam and crank sensors. Thanks Ivan!

Have this cam signal error on my mercedes (changed both cam and crank sensors), mabybee i need to chase my grounds too, thanks for this!

I have concluded that it's a miracle these run at all.

Hey. I love your videos. I live in Cyprus but am from UK. I had years repairing tvs in my shop. You are very patient guy. I had so many sleepless nights thinking about issues I left in the shop which I could not diagnose. You are clever man. I wish I had your patience. Customer is always right 😂

Damn) I can’t believe that this xc90 has the same typical issue as ancient 850 had 🤯 mind blown

I had several R engine Volvos (aluminum 5, 6, and 4 cylinders from 1992 with aluminum block and head, not the new 😂2.0 4 cylinder that premiered in 2014), that would have no start and erratic crank sensor pattern. The cause was dirty bell housings surface. It would happen when trans and engine were separated, more likely when painted reman transmission was installed. The same failure would occur with faulty starters that dragged from bad bushings and had high current draw. The crank sensor and starter are 90 degrees apart. The suppression of magnetic field from starter affecting sensor afforded by aluminum block and trans was borderline and anything affecting it could give long crank or no crank. Usually when it did start it was when you released key from start and it happened to be at a moment when engine would have enough inertia to turn that wee bit more. The few manual trans models with issue would start with a fraction of a rotation when pushed and clutch released after failing to run with minutes of starter cranking. There also was a copper shield, basically a big washer, slipped under sensor bracket that was held in place on bell housing and sensor stuck through it to retain it. The FMEM for unplugged MAF on 99 and later is usually very good. The dirty bell housings cars would be fixed but loosening all bell housing bolts 5 turns and then prying the two apart. Then use a rifle cleaning brush and brake cleaner spray to clean all way around. Ground wires added would not fix these but cleaning bell housing face fixed them.

Working almost exclusively with body shops, I see a LOT of bad grounds, usually the result of overspray, painting where painting shouldn't happen, or bolts getting missed during reassembly. Excited to see what else is going on with this poor car! This generation of XC90 is usually pretty well behaved! Pretty pretty please though, get some bell housing bolts for this poor baby...

Fitting the missing transmission case bolts would sure help even further ....

I suspect the engine needs to be removed again. The carrier plate is probably installed incorrectly after the rear main replacement. All bell housing bolts need to be installed and torqued to specification. Also check the vacuum hose routing to the TCV. Since that rear main seal job seems to be when the problem started I think you need to do the job again to find all of the problems caused by the seal installation. Especially since adding a bell housing bolt in part 2 helped. 😢

Keep calm, and check your powers and grounds. 👑

Someone totally nailed the transmission ground being the problem in the Part 1 comments, seems like a relatively common issue on these cars.

amazing logic, that dc offset/mybe noise of increasingly bad earth affects TSC signal to computer. logically when you release the starter, with the starter current gone & dc offset gone, it should then start. but doesn’t. i can’t explain that. seems the tiny voltage of TSC sensor makes it super sensitive to offsets.

This is one of your best finds, I was so incredibly curious to see this part 2.

Definitely an interesting case study and shows the importance of good grounds. I bought a couple of those pilot brushes after your other video where you used one and have already used it a couple of times. It works great and I highly recommend getting one. I recently used it to clean up the ground connection on my flat bed trailer and now the lights work as they should.

Loyal fun and student from Kenya Your videos educate me alot

Dit is een interessant massa probleem bedankt voor de informatie ℹ️ geweldig gedaan ✅