Some cars don't lend themselves well to heel-and-toe outside the track. Pedal spacing is the main concern, but sometimes it's the brake pedal itself being over-servoed and making consistent pedal pressure hard without unintentionally upsetting the car with more brake. This is the case with my Honda Jazz (Fit). I've campaigned it on time attacks and heel-toe is much easier on track. By contrast, on the road it's too easy to suddenly introduce more brake than intended while rolling onto the throttle to blip. Anyway good video and agreed on Chucks being great driving shoes.
Ahh I see. I can definitely see that being an issue. Hard braking on track would go through the full range of motion of the pedal, making it easier to heel toe. Whereas if the brake pedal is already touchy and sensitive at the top, it’d be hard to heel toe safely on the road. Thank you for the input. And thanks for watching the video! I’ll probably ask you for track tips soon.
Honestly I’ve given up trying to heel toe my GT86. In normal road driving I just can’t reach the gas pedal while on the brakes without jerking the car around. I’m six foot and it’s just not feasible with the positioning of the pedals. Maybe when I get the little extension that raises my throttle a little higher but until then it’s not worth it to add into my daily driving routine.
Is your foot hitting the side wall? I can see if you’re tall enough, your knee being bent despite sliding the seat all the way back can cause some problems. Try doing more of a roll with the side of your foot until you get an extension? Sorry, it’s hard to help when I can’t physically see or simulate what you’ve been experiencing.
One of the better demonstrations of heel and toe downshifting I've seen on YT, very well done Sir! Only issue is for us vertically enhanced folks where our long legs (36" inseam) are splayed outside around the steering wheel and our right foot toe cannot be rotated to the left without rotating the rest of our leg to the left which is blocked by the steering wheel. Instead I have to brake with the left side of my oversized foot and rotate the right side of my foot to blip the throttle. It's very tricky to get right... +1 on the shoe recommendation. I've switched to skateboarding shoes now for driving which help a ton.
Thank you! Haha I’m a staggering 5’6” and when first learning, I was experimenting with how far my body should be from the wheel. So I definitely understand the limitations. Luckily for my height, I guess I fit the demographic for a small Japanese 2+2 coupe lol. I have seen people actually get a small extension for the accelerator pedal. Maybe that may solve your issue by not having to rotate the foot as much by effectively having the brake and gas pedal closer together. Side note: I’ve been meaning to try some old pair of Vans, but I can’t seem to get away from the Converse.
Thank you, Kevin! Yeah I probably should’ve kept the standard gauge since I wasn’t keeping RPMs high enough. But you can hear me tapping that throttle into the floor to try and get revs up 😅 Honestly, the phone mount you gave me is an underrated interior mod. I was just gonna suffer with putting it in the cup holder until you saved me 😂
Even smoother heel toe is to double clutch. The reason is the engine revs up faster in neutral vs with the clutch depressed. Also a good thing to mention is that your rev match changes depending on how hard you brake and the differential between the speed you end up at and the gear you go into. A bad rev match can be less efficient than just dropping the gear after you’ve slowed down
double clutch is quite a bit outdated atp with relatively "modern" synchromesh transmissions, its definitely smoother but for the most part its not needed unless skipping gears (double clutch rev matching every down shift is a massive flex though 😂) also the engine is effectively in neutral with the clutch disengaged the reason its smoother is because when you let the clutch out in neutral all the synchros reset before going into the next gear which is why if you want to skip gears going down you should double clutch it EG 5-neutral-3
super super super SUPER nitpick but you are catching the revs with the clutch on their way up (from what i can see in the video), for the smoothest "nicest" on your bushing rev match you want to catch them on the way down so a slight overblip and just as the rpms start to fall catch them and engage the clutch smoothly, nice video 👍
I’ll definitely give it a try! I always thought catching on the revs up would reduce wear because the flywheel and clutch would “accelerate” rotationally in the same direction and speed.
@@LEEMWEEZY As long as you dont get a kick in the butt or lurch forward it probably doesn't matter, its like a 500ms difference between when the clutch disc rpm changes and when you re-engage the clutch and your vehicle speed changes about 2mph which means the clutch is actually decelerating by the time you begin to release the clutch pedal an overblip of a maybe 100-200 rpm gives you that 500ms delay to complete the downshift and start engaging the clutch at the exact right rpm, hopefully that makes sense
kind of depends on your body as well.. I cant do the traditional heel-toe (ball of foot on brake pedal and heel on gas).. I have to do the inverse, heel on brake and ball of toe on the gas.. my hips are pronated (or the other nated, lol), so if i try to do it traditionally, i look like i have a wedge or something lmao.. moving in my seat all weird.. the inverse is more natural for my body.. it helps having size 13 feet though too.. i wear chucks and vans for driving as they're cheap, last a long time, and have thin soles that provide great pedal feel.. I dont know how ppl drive in AF1's n shit lol.. sooooo much sole I cant feel a goddamn thing.. although in the new twins, you cant really feel the anything anyway lol.. the clutch felt like a logictech pedal when i test drove one
Good question. Heel toe downshift should actually prolong your brake pads. Remember, you only need to heel toe when you’re slowing down. When you rev match into a lower gear, you actually use some engine braking as well. If you just cruise in neutral and brake, you’re using all brakes with no help from the engine.
you're essentially sharing braking force with the engine and brakes so it should actually put a little less wear on the breaks at the cost of slightly more gas. the other upside i can think of is when traffic starts moving again you're already in gear and less work is needed to get moving
