Love Z hop. Use it nearly every print. A tip: you could just comment out the part of your end gcode that turns off bed heat. This would make it so you don't have to be next to the printer when it finishes the first color print. Might be helpful on a longer print or multiple color swaps. Love the videos on stuff like this!
OMG. You saying that out loud makes me wonder why I have never done that. That is a great idea. On the buildtak style sheet its fine but for PEI which is what I usually run that is great to have set to prevent accidentally having the plate cool before you catch it. Thank you for that tip!
@@ModBotArmy been absorbing your content like crazy lately as I just got into 3d printing, great to see someone so knowledgeable still get excited to learn a new trick. I'll definitely be using this one too.
WoW I can’t believe this it just happened to me 10 minutes ago my tip hit my build and moved it off the build plate I wish I knew about Z hop 20 minutes ago!Thank You that’s why I always look for your channel!
For the alignment, ideally you should model mating parts in the same coordinate system, then you can ctrl-A to select all and then right click and select "Merge". Then orient your print the way you want it, right click un-group and then delete all but one color, then CTRL-Z to undo until you have your colors back and then delete all but a different color. Then you're not manually aligning. Also, sometimes it looks like they won't merge properly but they still will, I'd always try merging them before giving up and manually aligning them.
Honestly had never tried Z-hop until I got my tiny kingroon kp3s and the default profile had it enabled, when it first started hopping I thought WTH then I noticed it was actually helpful. Thanks for another great video, your tips are awesome 👌 👏 👍
Lost in Tech's video from a few months after this says the filament stickiness when starting a layer is much more likely to pull off a print than the nozzle bumping/scraping. Great video either way.
I have a box of failure in the garage dedicated to the time printing before I found Z-hop. It is definitely required on some printers… for better or worse it was the one I quite literally picked at random because they looked like a fun hobby but I didn’t want to labor over the best price and endless features before I even got my hands on one.
Word of warning, be careful upping the z hop speed on a leadscrew machine. I just tried doing so for the first time the other day and managed to accidentally guess the exact value that a third of the way through the print the steppers didn't have enough oomph to travel that speed going up, but they did going down so it kept going back down. It crashed the head into the bed, and then into the side of the part bending the heatbreak and ruining a revo nozzle (ouch...)
Sorry to spam the comments, but I recently developed a workflow to allow you to do these "multiple colors on the same layer" on the top or in the middle of the model. When you model your parts make sure to export them with the global coordinate system to make merging easier. The issue you generally run into with multicolor in the middle or top of the part is that those "floating parts" cura insists on dropping (regardless of preference settings) to the build surface unless you use support (which you also don't want). To get around this, you model a small feature for each color on the base layer so that base feature keeps cura from dropping the main part down to the build plate and you don't have to use support.
I cant make Z hop work in small perimeters, the stringing is enormous. But on big perimeters it works very well. For things like wolverine claws, Z-hop don't have enough perimeter to stabilize the pressure, then it gives a lot of ooze. On mechanic parts, that tend to be more squared and bump on some materials, than Z-hop is a no brainer.
I was having issues with the nozzle dragging on my print with my Sovol SV06 plus. Z-hop @ 0.4mm seems to help, I didn't realize the downsides. Thanks for the info!
Hi thanks for this video, I have been looking for a while how to solve a problem I had with two tall objects, and this is the solution I was looking for they kept knocking over but I did not how to solve it , again thanks,love your videos easy to follow for a novice
I think I read somewhere that a combing setting may disable Z Hop in Cura. I haven't confirmed myself and don't recall that mentioned in the video, but might be useful for others in case it doesn't seem to working correctly.
Before Z-hopping was a thing i had to check where the model could curl up and the movements before the print. I kept to nozzles with a very wide profile to be able to push down the filament rather than crash into it
I do use z-hopping, but use many different materials where it is rather difficult to "tune" the string out. I don't like the feature in Cura 5.1.0 for retracting ( Maximum Retraction Count and Minimum Extrusion Distance Window ) as it is equally difficult to tune. I am currently printing multiple colors (7 colors) with 3 x 0.16 layer height on a Creality CR10S - a binding/frame color/layer with a 0.4mm nozzle, and the other 6 colors also 3 x 0.16 layer height but with a 0.2mm nozzle........ fingers crossed!
Thanks for the video! I appreciate the explanation for this particular setting and would love to see more setting explanations. Thanks again for the awesome job!
I was told anything but z-hopping, when I asked for help regarding my printhead hitting the model with the Elegoo Neptune 2S. Bad leveling, too much material, wrong temperature and so on. It was none of the above, since I did and check everything. It's a z-hopping issue + the printer moves too fast on the Y -axis- or better said the print bed moves too fast + the extruder does no z hopping on by default. I figured out to slow the printer down a bit and do a minimal Z-hop. It could literally make or break the model with this printer.
For anyone attempting this with a Creality CR6 (-SE or MAX) utilizing the stock strain gauge leveling probe, be sure to position the models in the slicer such that the center of the bed is not obstructed by any part of the first model when the machine probes the bed at the start of printing the second model. I almost forgot to do this. 😱
Great video. Appreciate your help. I am trying to print multi-color inlay print and I get trouble with the homing. I have a Creality ender 3 v2 printer upgraded with BLTouch prob. First, I canceled the G28 homing command in the G-code from the 2nd layer and on... but when I do so, the Z axis is getting into the bed and hit it. but when I returning the G28 command, then the Z axis homing occurs in the middle of the print on the printed previous layer and messing all homing and printing. What should I do? Thanks in advance
@@ModBotArmy I haven't find that option either in Prusa Slicer. It would require modyfing the gcode itself (removing all the uncesessary retractions, or changing their value to the default one) - it doesn't seem to be worthwhile.
In Cura you can add a support blocker, modify it to the height of the logo, change it to a cutting mesh, and use setting modifiers: z hop over printed parts & z-hop height of logo+. I haven't tested it personally, but should work in theory.
Yeah it sort of blows my mind. Sometimes printers that I would think should have no issues do a terrible job. It must come down to weight/rigidity of the moving mass but sometimes machines I would think would do a poor job do great and vice versa haha.
I am having a problem with batch multicolor printing with my Ender 3 v2 neo. That is because it has autoleveling and when I change the color (using a different gcode), the 3D printer starts "the leveling" process and when it moves to 0,0 location clashes with what has already been printed.
I use the "Change Filament" Post Extension Script in Cura. It stop before layer N and parks the hot end till you replaced the filament and hit continue
Hi there! I ended up next to your father on a flight from Gothenburg to London in July. He and your mother transferred to LA and I stayed in London. Yoir father told me about you r channel and I would like to ask you a question but privately.
I leave Z hope On, and Hop for the better. Edit: silly jokes aside, I'm experimenting with z hop on and off and I lean to leave it on since It gives me a little peace of mind about not having the nozzle crashing the printed parts.
Personally, I only use it for the *_First Layer_* when doing Multicolored Inlay Prints ( like those soon to be installed *_Voron_*_ V2.4_ Z-Axis Belt Covers i.imgur.com/z84orE6.jpg ) to ensure the Nozzle not contaminating itself again on an already laid down color when returning to the part after purging itself on the Purge Block as even the tiniest speck of black or red can easily contaminate a color like white. I also found that 2x 0.2mm Layers ( for a total of 0.4mm ) are enough to have a color like white become opaque enough to the naked eye for black printed on top of it not to show through so 0.6mm is something I'd already call unnecessary ( well at least on the *_Fiberlogy_*_ ASA_ that I use... )
