Yo tenia los 30 años en el oficio del calzado en el área del pespunte hasta que la pandemia lo vino a arruinar todo. Este vídeo me trajo nostalgia,siempre me gusto mi oficio ☹️
Pero no cocieron la suela de caucho del final 😕 eso es un punto negativo que implica poca durabilidad y mediocre construcción, porque la suelas pegadas pueden desprenderse si se usan en ambientes de alto impacto que requieren imprimir fuerzas cambiantes, bruscas y constantes sobre sus pies, como el hiking (¿que se supone que es el ramo en el que se especializa esta marca no?) O peor aún, simplemente con que el cliente viva en climas de calor extremo, las suelas pegadas se desprenden con mucha facilidad, a simple vista todo muy bien pero una decepción al final del video.
@@richterbelmont857 Видел видео производства ручной работы. Там рант и подметку пришивают вручную, а каблук крепят шурупами. Японские и корейские мастера.
Well, firstly all stitching is made by machine, which makes Goodyear welt last sightly shorter time, secondly adding so much glue to boot upper makes it as breathable as a rubber ;)
That welt stitching machine is awesome! I feel like y'all should use cork under the footbed though... rubber isn't the same over time. Beautiful products
I agree, Goodyear Welting prccess gives space for cork. But these shoes aren't really made the same was as a cork bed shoe. These shoes are from fashion brands who still do goodyear welting, but decide to lack in proper cushioning so customers come back once a year when the cheap foam has gone down.
Leather is ideal to fill that space. Rubber will never conform to your foot like leather will and cork will flatten and get pushed to the sides and possibly form lumps as time passes.
google translate No need to glue the lining to the top before tightening. From the beginning it is necessary to tighten the lining. Then spread the glue. And only then glue the top. So on the lining there will be no defects and puffs that sometimes happen when tightening the skin with an already glued lining. не нужно клеить подкладку к верху до затяжки. С начало надо затянуть подкладку. Потом намазать клей. И только после этого приклеить верх. Так на подкладке не будет дефектов и затяжек, которые иногда бывают при затяжке кожи с уже проклееной подкладкой.
Ok for an Italian boot, I guess...but those prices are 20-30% higher than Danner, White and Red Wing for comparable boots (that use a cork bed, instead of a rubber bed). VAT is brutal, I guess...
it's the strip that the used to stitch down the top part of the boot. The leather all curved at the bottom, but wasn't being held by anything. They put a strip/lip/welt thing over the leather and stitched it. They then stitched the sole to the welt.
goodyear welt is a combination of 2 main things, a welt, which is a strip of (usually leather) thats sewn around the bottm of the shoe, and a raised rib on the perimiter of the insole that allows the welt to be sewn to it (and through the bottm of the upper) by machine instead of by hand. the welt is then stitched down to either just the midsole, or the midsole and outer sole. hand welted is the same thing, except you sew the welt through the upper and insole at an angle, this allows for less volume on the bottm of the shoe / boot. welted construction in general however is prone to the welt stitches rotting because they are basically between the sole layers
Stitched sole I guess. I'd rather have these cemented ones. When they wear out of shape its much cheaper to get a new pair put in. I would only want them stitched on if i am gonna get put on a deserted island for 20 years where there are no stores to buy glue or a shoe shop.
@@Esuper1 The 'stitched sole' constrains the shoe's flexibility, but an alternative is to have a rubber sole added (ie glued) to the existing leather sole. This is about a 1mm thick, and can add years to the life of a shoe. Many people do this with leather-soled shoes (stitched sole or not) to extend the life of the shoe, but more importantly for traction.
so the rib is not fixed anymore on the inside sole , maybe the reason in to make the process cheaper , but this means that this is not anymore the real goodyear welt process, regards robert
Why oh why don't they make beautiful boots like this for women. Loved the video, but had volume down so didn't hear the 'bad' music....informative enough without commentary, so thumbs up from me.
Because most women are too stupid to buy well made shoes. They put a higher priority on number of shoes vs quality of shoes. They want to have a pair of shoes for every outfit that they wear whereas men are more likely to just have a couple of pairs of shoes for different activities -- sneakers, dress shoes (maybe brown and black), boots (hiking, cowboy, hunting, depending upon what part of the country you are from). Women will have more than that in just the same color. Women will think that each of those styles are completely different whereas a guy just thinks that the woman has 20 pairs of black shoes that all look alike. Women dress up for *other women* not for guys. Guys just don't notice such things. We might notice whether a woman is wearing clothes / shoes or not, but that is about the level of granularity that we notice. You can't say that we are "shallow" since that implies that we have *some* depth. :)
Nothing wrong with the idea of using a glue to bond the 2 pc 2gther, but goodyear welted is all about stitching leather to the sole. Hes used more glue lol
the idea of a goodyear welt is to create a sturdy sole that is weather proofed, AND easy to replace. the rubber is an artificial liner. its not a true part of the sole. the actual leather sole is there and welted, and will likely never see the light of day again. as the rubber wears and tears, it can be removed and replaced. you cant stitch through most rubbers as it will just promote tearing in the sole. and in the case of a boot that will spend most of its time in mud and dirt, you really dont want any holes for the mud and dirt to get stuck into.
No he hasn't. You need extra adhesive when using leather as its very porous and absorbs the first coat completely. Single coat of adhesive required for rubber after preparation depending on the kind of sole material.
...how shoemakers and cobblers work: Hmm... this full size painters brush is not quite alrigh where did I put my... aah there it is... my sturdy ol' porch broom *dips broom in gluepot, eyes shoe* Hmm... now this might just do the trick. But I better be really sure... *puts brown aside* wouldnt want this thing to come undone would I? *grabs and dips shoe in gluepot* aaah now that is what I call the just right amount of glue.
the outside sole is not stitched to the welt so the quality of these boots will not guarantee that the sole will come of , this means that this is not a real welted boot
pues la suela si esta cosida sobre el welt , solo que este tipo de welt no es el normal , este tipo de welt es mas barato ya que el rib no esta hecha via hendidura en la planta o via una tira de tela reforzada cosida sobre la planta , un saludo desde leon gto donde hacemos 260 millones de pares al año
oh....now I can't help myself. Look at the image at both the beginning and the end of this video for "Goodyear welted technology". The red stitch for the welted portion is there. The red colored stitch in the image is not correct! You only stitched to the mid sole and not all the way through like your image has. I hope this is not the untrue logo for your company also.
I’d you want a clean to the point video about the Goodyear welt construction process, then just go over to Redwing’s channel. And you’ll see better made shoes to boot.👍
