A group of us used to bash there around 8 years ago and some other guys used to aswell. Some just gave up the hobby and dont really know what happened to the rest of the guys. I bash with west London bashers and london all star bashers now as they meet up often.
Yer me still into 1/5 had to give it a break because of poor weather but back on it now as was out last sunday with it as weather is getting better now. The first field where I was breaking it in was purley way old air port playing fields and second field where I was going full throttle is Parsloes Park in dagenham as there a group of them that link up there most sundays.
I don't deal with "break in" for an engine. I just get the carb tuned well, (of which you should be doing full throttle to set the H jet), and go run it. I just want to get the ring sealed to the cylinder wall as quickly as possible, and that required high cylinder pressure, (where torque is highest). That way, you reduce the blow by of a new ring that can build tarnish up on the cylinder walls. I put brand new engines on my dyno, (harder than in the field), get the carb tuned, and beat the heck out of them. There is no such thing as a engine failure because of an improper break in for these engines.
That is interesting and good to know. I almost was gonna say your talking a load of nonsense but then I clicked on your profile and seen your the man be hide the product so your advice must be right.
@@nolimit7 Well, I think my advise is right, but I do reserve the right to be wrong too, (but should be corrected, right?:). There are 2 things I see about these engines that circulate as mysticism more than objective reasoning. One is break in procedure, and the other is what kind of oil and mix ratio. For break in, I go by what made sense to me, and tested it. And for oil, I go by the testing Quick Draw has done on their dyno. They found to date, that the Klotz supertechniplate oil, and the expensive Motul Kart GP 2-T, are the best oils they tested, and I trust those guys on those tests. Zenoah is good at a 25:1 mix, (with a good oil), but I like to run 20:1 for reed engines, (they get more piston wear on the intake side), and the G320 based engines, (they have a bigger crank/pin/lower rod bearing that does not like rpm over 17,000). If you take your used G320/G340 apart, and see that the lower rod end is blue, it would be a good idea to get a new crank. The same thing can happen with the Gp290 and smaller rc engines, but not until about 21,000rpm. The Zenoah owners manual for air cooled engines has some great engine information in it, but does not mention a break in procedure. The Zenoah PUM manual, (water cooled boat engines), actually says a break in is not needed. I have read other tech articles talking about not running a new engine easy, (for motorcycles), and it made sense to me, so I tried it. It looks like Zenoah agrees too. Thanks for using my stuff man, I appreciate it. I am easy to reach by phone too, 9am-9pm Eastern standard time, I answer the phone 7 days a week.
@@EarthSurferUSA Back in my 2takt days we had to break in engines that had an iron cilynder. when u place an aluminium cilinder it has a nicasil layer and it,s so hard u dont run anything on it an its just the piston ring that has to set. So indeed i think also that those rc engines don,t need break in
i see a lot people on here that think they are breaking a nitro motor in. gas the only moving part are the bearing races, ring to jug. when i rode dirt bike we used to say, beat it ,to seat it. i have one of these true 32 esp motors built myself. from ddm . id say almost 2 x the power of stock g 32 . very happy with it in my 5t.
