Zero Breeze Mark 2 - Night Test - Closed Vehicle - Full Yeti 1000 Battery - Normal Mode - DC Power 

You might want to check out the owner reviews first. Customer service is as bad as the reviews.

You're welcome. Yes, you're right that couldn't have helped to have the battery exhaust port so close. While using "real world" I have it all separated, and have, as you suggested, considered installing a wye to the Mark 2 exhaust hose and exhausting the battery hot air also. During the day it's just so hot in the car I don't think it would matter, but at night it could make a difference.

You're welcome, hopefully I get some testing in soon now that it's heating up again. Zero Breeze sent me one of their batteries, can't wait to test that too. Hopefully I'll get to a sleep mode video also.

Can't argue with that. Don't know if it will make much difference in the summer in the sun, but every bit counts for sure.

Actually a few examples of this over at the Mark 2 facebook group. A lot of insulation in custom van builds, with small areas closed off. Many good reports of being able to cool off spaces even during the daytime. There's one video in particular of a dog left inside one of these "cocoons" sleeping soundly.

Drakilicious yeah it does seem like a coffin. Definitely very claustrophobic if built to the extreme. Probably would need to be at least tall enough to sit up to be useful. Ideally, there would be some space for storage and a slideout monitor/table/keyboard for work. With enough insulation, such a space could be very energy efficient

I can't say I've tested it while moving. Not for any length of time. I've driven off, and reached back and shut it off with the remote. I've also read posts from others saying it stopped working when used while moving. I've driven many miles with it off, then turned in on soon after parking. I do have it strapped down. I haven't had any issues with it and have not waited 30 minutes many times. But if Zero Breeze says to wait 30 mins, it's a gamble to do what I do.

About the same size. I never had much chance of cooling the interior during the day in the sun as that's too large a space for this many BTU's, but I only bought it to keep me cool, so it worked out.

For sure. It does what it does well. It's when people ask more of it than it can deliver that they get disappointed.

Ambient temperature. The Mark 2 adjusts itself given the conditions of the space. When it's hotter, it works harder. The garage in the first video was under 80 if I remember right, the temp in my vehicle in later tests was much hotter. Hope that helps.

Maybe about 160 cubic feet. With minimal insulation, much too big for the 2300BTU Mark 2 to be effective on a sunny day to cool the entire space. Others have reported good luck at night however in "smaller" spaces.

I got my answer. Thanks

Yeah, 1 and 3. They made it super easy with the little diagram on the power brick that I almost didn't notice at first.

Great question. I was not in there much of the time so I could have made a difference if I was. I can say however that the several times I hung out in there while it was running, the ambient air inside felt considerably cooler than the outside which is in contrast to the daytime tests in full sun where the inside ambient air was suffocatingly hot any time I moved out of the Mark 2 air stream. It may not meet everyone's needs in stifling hot humid nights in a larger space, but in my opinion night time is where this really shines. Check out the Mark 2 facebook group where many talk about their experiences and tests at night.

According to what I've read on their website and the Facebook group, no. It's either use or charge their batteries, not both. Part of the reason I went with my own power supply. As far as connecting in parallel, not natively as far as I can tell, but what a great idea it would be to be able to stack them like Legos.

Great question. I used the same wire reluctantly. I would like to use larger gauge wire but I'm limited by the opening at the base of the connectors they use on the Mark 2. I have found it difficult to find any (by the foot) wire online that is a larger gauge AND fits in the connector. There is a DIY cord on the zero breeze website but it doesn't list the wire gauge so may not be bigger than what I'm using. Being 24V and a very short run I think I'll be ok though. Nothing in the system is getting extremely hot since the converter upgrade.

Do you mean sucking inside air in through the condenser coil in the back of the unit? Or are you just talking about recirculating the inside air through the evaporator in the front of the Mark 2? It does recirculate the inside air through the evaporator in the front (the intake is right below the outlet), but I have fresh air coming in from outside to cool the condenser coil and then exhaust out the other hose in back. I have tried using inside air to cool the condenser also, even though doing so creates a vacuum in the vehicle so I have to crack a window. But at 100 degrees inside the vehicle I can always get cooler air from outside to cool the condenser.

I have a video wiring up a 12 to 24v converter. I've upgraded to a 20amp model now which I recommend. For ducting I have both a sheet metal hvac 4" starting collar, and a 4" plastic drain that you would set into concrete which I cut the plastic grate out of the opening. You can also look into 4" dust collection fittings that get attached to table saws and other tools.

Agreed. As soon as I realized it wasn't going to cool the interior ambient air on a hot sunny day, I started to crack side windows to purge some of that oppressively hot air. I have also experimented with using inside air to run through the intake at the back to cool the compressor coil which in turn creates negative pressure to suck outside air in through the cracked windows. All depends on the conditions outside. But yes, getting that hot, heat loaded air out is good.

12V to 24V DC converter. I bought on Amazon, and needed to upgrade to a 20amp model to get it to run the Mark 2 well in a very hot environment.

Absolutely! It's going to be a bit less efficient use of power as you are converting that DC battery to an AC plug, then back into DC with the Mark 2 plug in power supply as opposed to just wiring it up straight DC. But yes you can just plug it into any power supply out of the box that has a 120V AC outlet. Run time is just dependent on battery capacity.

It comes with an 840 watt hour battery. You'll pay 500+ for most battery solutions approaching even close to that on Amazon. Just FYI. And if you wanted access to 6 to 8 thousand BTUs like a Window Unit you'd normally find in someone's home (up from the 2300 BTUs of this unit), you'd need a much larger battery than that to power it for any meaningful amount of time. lol Here's some example rechargeable battery solutions for you to ponder (you won't find 840 watt hours for cheap lol) $559.00 for 622 watt hours www.amazon.com/Portable-Station-MILIN-Generator-Emergency/dp/B08YRFLSR3/ $129.00 for 166watt hours and limited by 200 watts peak output (not enough output to power 2300 btu air conditioner) www.amazon.com/Generator-Flashfish-45000mAh-Portable-Emergency/dp/B07SG4QG47 $649.00 for 720 watt hours www.amazon.com/EF-ECOFLOW-Portable-Multiple-Recharge/dp/B08T1KY8SG And even if you wanted to buy something a little less ready-made so you can cut corners in all the fancy addons like a USB charger or cigarette output, etc, that comes pre-built in a lot of these battery solutions, you've got options like this 12V (125 Amp hour) battery that you'd need to buy two of to run in series to get the 24vs (or to run on only one of these batteries you'd need to buy an inverter to increase the 12volts to 24 that can handle the load you want, but then you'll have some inefficiencies with the power conversion), and these batteries are $300.00 each and you'd have to at least buy some kind of charge controller to go with them, unless you have that already. www.amazon.com/Vmaxtanks-Vmaxslr125-rechargeable-Solar-Inverters/dp/B00ACNO2AO