hello again....my repair was a total success...thanks for the in depth videos....i was in control....split the valve body and replaced dampers and end seals along with separator plate and solenoids....and did not loose any check balls....trans is what i would deem almost new....clutch pressures are great...shifts are fantastic after the adaptation drive....thanks again
Great Content. I am doing some service to my 07 LR3 6HP26. Being a retired Rover tech, this is pretty straight forward but its been since 2012 due to retiring. Trans is in limp home mode (3rd gear), P0964 code and leaking fluid. Fluid is dirty as well. Im doing the following: New seals, rubber tubes, bridge seal, dampers, separator plate, solenoids and Type B trans pan and hardware. Thanks for the walk through.
Hi Gary. Very informative and helpful video. I am in Turkey and recently have rebuilt my 6hp26x on my e53 by ZF in Turkey. The problem was my car was 220k km and after i changed the oil 3rd time, i resetted the adaptations (i should not have done), although i followed zf adaptation procedure problems started. From 1-2 sonetimes it was reving up and suddenly change with a huge bump.Problem was e clutch and all flattening seals. All changed. It was very exciting to see the whole process in your video. Btw, you are are really kind to answer all the questions, keep up the good work!
Hi Gary, Great video. Thanks. I have a 6HP26 in a Ford. They were used on local product down here. The trans has an issue with slippage in 2nd gear with medium to high torque. Also, it will not shift from 3rd to 4th with zero/low torque. Gears 4, 5 and 6 are fine. As it attempts the 3-4 shift, it tries for fourth, does not find it and goes back to third. When driving it, I use the manual shift. I take it easy in 2nd then when changing from 3rd to 4th, I press a little on the accelerator to increase torque or do the opposite which is lift off the pedal completely. Thus the trans has either positive or negative torque going through it. Like this, it shifts OK. I too changed the bridge seal,the cylindrical sleeves and new fluid plus filter. It did not make any difference. Later, I reset the adaptives and it made it a whole lot worse. I have another trans for it. I was contemplating either swapping the valve bodies or the complete trans. I saw this video and it was swaying me to swap out the valve bodies until I saw your comment that in your case it didn't fix it. Oh well... In the meantime, it has just done a 2,000km interstate round trip like this in very hot conditions > 45 deg C. Like I said, gears 4 5 and 6 are good... Didn't get any worse. Your comments would be welcome. Thanks.
Gary Ferraro Hi Gary, Sorry, been busy of late. The codes are: p0732 2nd gear incorrect ratio P0783 3-4 shift There are no codes for the engine. Thanks
Hi Gary, great video! Thanks for taking the time to put out such great content. I have a 2011 E70 X5 M with the 6HP26Z transmission. It's not throwing any codes, but it has become a problem where under normal driving conditions the car shifts from 3 to 4 to 5 rather rapidly without building RPMs much through each of the gears. If I get my foot in it, then the problem never shows up. But if I don't, the premature shifting occurs and then I really have to step down to get a downshift. And then off like a rocket it goes. The way it's behaving, something just doesn't seem quite right. I don't know whether all is normal and it's just the car trying to eek out some kind of fuel economy (cough - 12 MPG) or if my gut is right. It's time for transmission service. I'm planning on dropping the valve body, and replacing all the seals and the solenoids since I've now hit 80K miles. I'd much rather do this right once than have to do go back in to do something I could have easily done the first time. Is there anything else I should/could do based on my problem description? Do you have any thoughts on what the problem might be? I really appreciate it if you are able to reply. Thanks again for the great content!
Greetings. After repair with hard drive and shock when shifting down from 5th to 4th gear. Replacing the valve body and booster valve did not solve the problem. The clutch air check is excellent. There are no error codes.
Super informative! Did you say you 'wet sand' the valve body halves to clean them? Also, what are your thoughts on the foam strips that may come with a new ZF solenoid kit? THANKS!
Hello Gary, I wrote to you a while ago about a 08 impala 4T65E issues. I lost first gear, I could drive the car if I manually shifted to second, then shift from 2nd to 3rd etc.. while stopped I would have to move it down to 2nd.I did some basic checks, harnesses were good on the outside, cleaned grounds. I added some seafoam trans fix and more fluid. After a few drives, first gear came back, then it went away. When first came back, it would shift 1 to 2 then 2 to a hard 3 after 3 there was no 4 or OD. Other times from a stop it would shift 1st to second have a delay then slam into 3rd. Then I would only have 2nd. Only a few times did it drop 3 and 4th gears and rev high after 2nd reached its shift point. Other days it was no 1st but could manually get the other gears to work. Then I had all gears working as long as I had low rpm range. Now you asked me then for codes. There were none as the battery was changed. Well it has taken this long and many long trips to get this damn light to come on. Tonight if finally did. Tonight after a 2 hour drive I stopped and it felt as if the trans was trying to apply a gear and was popping in and out. So what the codes read is a P0700 and P0977 so I ask you expertise. Sorry for posting on this video. I can't remember how to send a DM
@@GaryFerraro Definition I got was Shift Solenoid B Control Circuit High. This make any sense to you? Weather has been to cold to work on the car outdoors. What I found tho that was interesting is that freeze frame data said the car was in open loop.
Hi Gary, Good to see your videos, Gary I am finally going to fire this thing up and see how good of a job I did on my 05 545i 6HP26, replaced Bushings, solenoids, intermediate plate, Bridgeport seals. I even replaced all seals on leak prone areas on the engine, now I need instructions on how to reset adaptations on this transmission I was told it's like a drive cycle that's got to be completed. Do you Know where I can get that information Gary, please. I will keep you updated on how it all came out., Oh I forgot to mention I have INPA Thank You Gary Best Regards
Make sure no codes are present in transmission or engine, trans temp needs to be at least 130F, after the adapts are reset drive the car and let it upshift through all the gears. do like 15 to 20 start and stops
Good morning Gary. Thank you for Your reply and getting me in touch with Nat at Erikssons. Hope all is well Gary. as I mentioned before I'm looking to do the same trans service to my 2007 530xi with 2004k mainly as preventive maintenance. I recently got this vehicle and although I'm Not showing any codes at this time I'm experiencing a jolt as I'm coming to a complete stop its Not always it's kind of like when someone rearends you from behind and I also noticed something similar as I drove up to 90 mph then it felt like going over a potwhole, it completes the shift and goes on after that. Being new to the Beemer community and through lots of RU-vid videos I'm wondering if once I'm done with this service do I need to have this Reset? I hear a lot about this IMPA BMW Software that will also also amongs other numerous things with completing the filling of the trans fluid at a certain temperature and also with the resetting once I complete this service. So I guess my question is, Is this resetting necessary? I asked a local mechanic who advertised himself as Especialicing in German vehicles. His response was that as long as there were No codes showing up on the dash, this was Not necessary. Would you agree with that Gary? Looking forward to hear from you!
Hi Gary, is there any difference between the 6hp26 and 6hp26X valve body or its solenoids? Also would a bushing kit for a 6hp26 fit a 6hp26x. I have an 07 X5 E70 3.0d I'm rebuilding. love your videos and thanks from here in Australia. Cheers Jake
Mr Gary.!!! I need your help! 2008 535i LCI 6hp21. Rebuilt gearbox, but will not go into PARK. THE gears engage, that’s how I got the 9 liters of zf fluid back into it. But it’s up on jacks, so haven’t test driven it. Tested the Mv2 & mv3 solenoids it drew the correct ohm reading. But I noticed that when I stuck the screwdriver in the emergency park release in the gear selector switch, there was so much more slack, like it was too easy to move around… could this be the culprit??? Thank you for your reply!
Hi Gary. I have a 6hp21, changed the oil, pan, the 4 sleeves, and the square one. No errors. After the car is sitting for more than 6-7 hours, i shift it in D, stay with my foot on the brake for like 20-30 sec and release the brake to drive, it freezes like for a half a sec and then is like someone hits me in the back of my car. If i shift in D and i go straight driving for 20 min, at the first full stop and go it doesn't do that anymore! Any suggestions? Many thanks!! Keep up the good work!!
Gary, very informative for me in Australia. Can you explain the purpose of the rubber dampers that were in such poor condition here please. I would like to understand what they actually do in the system.
im going to drop the valve body again this Saturday, the previous owner said the hard shifting started after the solenoid replacement so i am going to check the wiring and the connector and pins. would you happen to know the pin locations and valve locations for 3-4 shifts so i can check the valves? zf6hp26 -053
Hi Garry, I have a problem where my zfhp26 transmission slip in all gears including reverse after driving for about 5 minutes. All works great if i turn car off and let it sit for about 10 minutes. Then problem occurs again after 5 minutes of driving. All shifts smooth. No hard jerk . It just happened then feel like neutral
Thanks for sharing Gary. Not too much of a setback as the valve body needed done also. Any good reason why these transmissions wear the bushings out? TakeCare, Bill
Awesome videos on this 6HP trans, but you might consider a video camera upgrade for better quality. Thanks for the info you are sharing. Also, how come arent you using a Sonax ZIP kit in front of new solenoids. Ive read it helps a lot. Is that worth doing ? The check balls and dampers do they come in a kit ?
Thanks for watching, i have upgraded since, got new PC and extra lighting. I never really used the Zip kit, never really had to, i overhaul the trans with new solenoids and bushings as well as a master overhaul kit, reset adapts unit works great, If you purchase a TransTec kit the small parts should come in the lit
@@GaryFerraro Considering upgrading to exedy 6hp28x clutches, bushings, solenoids and changing all parts in valve body. its drag racing diesel 500hp 900nm. So these videos are very useful.
Sure, i did a video, Victor's ZF6HP26 at the end i showed how to reset shift adapts with scan tool, Would you like to know run-in after adapts are reset?
Hi Gary, do you tasting this VB on vacuum. I have 6hp28 transmission with damage lubrication valve in VB. He has only 2 Hg of vacuum. It’s very small numbers… PR valve has 13-14 Hg… What do you think? And what can I do to correct this problem?
Gary you are awesome and an expert. Where can I bring my car for service at your shop? I dont trust other shops. My range rover sport 2008 4.4L will need to be serviced. I had a leak in the transmission years ago and due to timing didnt stop the leak. I did eventually change the filter and pan last year. Since then had issues like flaring 2-3 gear and and sluggish on 1st gear. Funny part is that when cold car drives normal. I'm in nyc.
hi great video can i ask the transmission solenoids you have 3 yellows 3 blue and one black {eds1 yellow eds2 blue eds 3 yellow eds 4 blue eds 5 blue eds 6 yellow and mv1 black does each one control a certain gear thank you
Did you get to document the pressures on the clutches? Were the adaption pressures and temperature so high they extruded the damper rubber right through their access holes?
Hey Gary, my box is having issues with the torque converter lock up bouncing on and off increasing and decreasing around 200 rpm when cruising at 80 to 100kph at 1500rpm, would this fix my issue?
Hi Gary great video certainly got a ton from it. I'm in the process of getting this trans service done on my 530xi I'm just wondering if you can share where to get the components you replaced on the valvebody the dampers, 2 little filters valve & springs as well as the 9 check balls. Im having a heck of a time finding those. Seems like everyone is trying to get me to buy the whole unit. I'm not ready to dish out that kind of money. Hope all is well, Looking forward to your response. Cheers from Chicago!
The small parts came in the overhaul kit, but if the springs and filters are ok, you can reuse them. The only part you may have to change are the rubber dampers, the rubber insert is not sold, you would have to purchase the whole damper assembly(small little thing may 5 or 10 dollars each, could be 6 or 7 of them depending on the generation of your transmission. There also is a company called Sonnax that sells valves and springs in place of the rubber dampers that work well. If the dampers are flat they will need replacing, everything else you can reuse. If you want the rubber dampers, there is a ZF distributor in CT called Eriksson's industries, very good people there, if you need the phone number let me know. Greetings from New York, stay safe out there
Hi there On the E53 we have the 6hp26 with 7 solenoids on the valvebody, on E70 first generation (i think)we have the same box-6hp26 with 8 solenoids on the valvebody...Now the question is, are those two pieces compatible? Can we put the valvebody from the X5 E70 2006 on E53 Facelift? In my case, on my E53 after the oil warm up , i have a "hard shifting" on 2-3 and on 5th gear my transmision surge (smth as loosing power and gain it back in a second) I'm asking you that because i have a E70 for spare parts Greetings from Romania
Mine it surely is M shift , but i'm not sure about the X5 E70 valvebody - i know the code from it - 0260550024 Bosch with 8 solenoids. Thank for your reply
@@ciprianciprian1540 well if the other has more solenoids it may be an Eshift, if this is the case will not interchange, Are the solenoids the same color?
@@GaryFerraro Thank you for your cooperation, i didn't quite expect that...the last two solenoids are orange, color that i don t have on my valvebody...i ve reached the sonnax site and they provide good information overthere, so i found out that the 2 pieces are not interchangeable. I think i found out my problem also, i need a over-sized pressure regulator valve or probably a Sonnax ZIP kit ...
Hi Gary, thank you for sharing your videos!!!. I have a ZF6HP26 that is on a 2007 BMW 550i. A few month ago the car was stuck on third gear. I end it up replacing all solenoids with OEM ones, all slevees seals, the bridge seal, the oil pan and the oil. The transmission worked good for three weeks. Now, after driving in traffic for 20-30 minutes starts overheating and goes to limp mode until cools down. This morning on a cold start it went into limp mode right away and I couldnt get it out of it. I never reset the shift solenoids when I work on the transmission, could that be a problem? .I was thinking about buying the Sonnax kit and finish replacing all the parts inside the valve body. What would you recommend? Could do give me any ideas?
Hi Gary, thanks for your fantastic Videos! I’ve learnt so much from you 😊. I have a BMW ZF6hp26 off a X5 E53. I’ve rebuilt the entire gearbox and valve body with Sonax kit. I’ve replaced all the bushings as well. I’ve even replaced the valve body thinking I’ve done something wrong on the rebuild. The issue I’m having is that it has a vibration that gets worse as it warms up. In Park and Neutral NO vibration. Vibration is noticeably worse at lower revs while driving, over 2500 revs it goes away. Almost like a humming sound/vibration. I’ve even changed the torque converter - still same problem. Any suggestions? Regards Warren
@@GaryFerraro Hi Gary, with foot on the brake in Drive or Reverse I have the vibration. While driving as well under 2500 Revs it vibrates. Under high Revs, no vibration. Shift Change is smooth through all gears. Very responsive after the valve body repair and clutch/steel changes.
Gary, do you recommend changing the fluid in ZF transmissions with lifetime fluid at some interval? Some people say to change it at 70k, while others say never change it.
Hello every one. I have 2010 BMW 550i M-Sport 4,8L with 6HP26 transmission. I have two code 4F8F and 4F81. Replacement bridge seal and 4 sleeves make better drive feelings but not for long. After accelerate up the hill road codes come back and limb mode ON again. Any idea what to do? Thing to change all solenoids but it is no solenoids error code.
hello Gary, you ever try transgo parts for the valve body? there is two part numbers associated for the valve body. transgo parts; sk6r80a for the shift kit and 6r80vbrwt associated with the cluck, the lube regulator repair kit which requires to ream the location? anyone on here have input? I have the clunk from second to first if I do not make a complete stop and go. it will clunk into first. The oil didn't show signs of heavy debris or metal and the seals from the valve body to trans where replaced as it seems from the previous owner.
I have yes, as long as it's a gen one, i install the shift kits. I have the transgo kit for the solenoid reg and lube reg valves but have not used it yet
Hi Gary, I'm having a 4E89 solenoid valve 1 or 2 mechanically jammed issue on my 2008 750li E66 LWB . I am wondering would doing this service to my valve body fix the issue? the issue does not always appear on a cold start, after driving around and car has warmed up, but as soon as I turn off the car and start it back up I get a transmission fault error and it will not pass 3rd gear when driving. Also my functions to switch in sport mode/manual mode no longer function when it shows transmission fault error.
Hey i have fault code in my bmw E60 5088 and 5F2F what will that be? It drive and shifting gear as well when its cold, when its hot it going in limp mode
Hi Gary, Have a '04 525i 110k miles. Zf6hp Never changed fluid/filter. Slight clunk from 2 to 1. Went into limp mode 2 times on 3-4 with higher rpm in the last year. Got e clutch ratio error. Less than 2500rpm all smooth though. Trans temp is good, 70c or less. Adaptations are all around +50 to +100 but c clutch is -400 and e clutch is 0. Shouldn't the fill pressure be ramping up if there's slipping? Heard some people see +600 before the clutches actually give out. Was planning to do fluid, filter, solenoids, sonnax kit and sleeves/seals. Is that a waste of time?
Clutch packs may be ok, i would say you either have a mechanically bad solenoid or a worn rear stator bushing, The 2-1 clunk could also be worn bushings. Does the car upshift 3-4 ok when cold?
Great video Gary! I have heard that when removing the valve body, care must taken re static electricity effecting the the solenoids. Would this be the case or not?
Hey Gary, Please give your opinion : Had some slamming problems when cold 2y ago from low oil level, changed filter and all the gaskets, cleaned the solenoids with break spray, new oil, reset adaptation, was going great until I had some engine work and took off the transmission, mechanics told me I had an oil loss on the trans from the cable sleeve. After 1 month I completed some more oil than after a hard hill it slipped in a gear, driven good 100ml then on manual from 2>1 huge slam (no slamming until that day). The next day on cold was running very smooth until it got warmed 50-60c and the slamming started to feel more and more 3>2>1. If I wait some seconds before 2>1 it feels light, if I change right away boom car moves with breaks pressed. I'm confused about what it could be cos the mechanics in the area don't know to repair this models. It started after a hill and slams only on hot. Do they put too much oil ? Too little? Some solenoid broke or clogged? Something inside meca broke? Some internal trans parts maybe? Any advice is appreciated Thanks
What i would like for you to do is scan the car for codes. If any engine codes are present that would explain the hard down shifts, i see that a lot with these units. What type of car is this?
@@Wso_live Well, if there are no engine codes and all values are ok could be bushing wear, did you say this happens only hot? have you scanned the engine?
Gary I have an issue with my Range Rover it throws out code p0735 after driving it for like 15 to 30 minutes and it basically doesn’t upshift I already changed the sleeves cleaned out the valve body and replaced the solenoids with new ones now the transmission shifts much smoother but has the same problem and the p0735 code pops up and I have to turn off the car and turn it back it on so it can shift normally and it runs fine after that n then the issue happens again and I have to turn off and on the car so I can drive it bcuz if I don’t it doesn’t upshift anymore
@@GaryFerraro is the e clutch in the transmission because the transmission was rebuilt also what I did notice today is when I took it out to test drive it because I had someone do the relearn on it the temperature was pretty high and the p0735 popped up again I let the car sit and took it out again and was monitoring the temperature and the control module temperature was about 215 Fahrenheit and the trans fluid was about 220 221 Fahrenheit so it wasn’t running as hot as the first time I took it out today and I was able to drive without any fault for more that 30 miles and then code p0730 popped out so I’m a bit lost right now and the first time I took it out the temperature was about 245 Fahrenheit
Hi Gary, I'm removing my zf6hp valve body so that i can clean it and inspect it. what can i use to wash or soak the valve body with? can it be water and soap or brake cleaner? or does it have to be a solvent? Thx in advance
Gary Ferraro hi... I’m getting error 4F89 - speed transmission ratio 3-4 and 507C - defective parking lock put in. I’m having surging issue and when I slow down feels some rear ended me. Should I replace all the solenoid, parking wiring harness and rebuild it with sonnax zip kit? Please help!
@@jasonbuenviaje6250 Those issues with the 3-4 slip and the downshift bump I have traced to either solenoids or worn bushings, if you change the solenoids first, make sure you reset the shift adapts or the car will work the same way
Gary Ferraro No cigar Gary, I rebuilt the valve body with sonnax zip kit, new matching separator plate, new solenoids and new complete seals. Now it’s probably boils down to worn bushing on the stator were E drum is sitting or just replace all with the complete bushing kit?
i need help, i changed the 4 seals along with the bridge seal. turns out i have a A053 model. the tranny is still slipping and shifting hard. next will be the separator plate and dampeners.... is that what i should try next? the previous owner already replaced all the solenoids.
@@shanewhaler If your going to split the valvebody to install a new plate, i would recommend a trans go shiftkit, very easy to install, with 053 plate, should be a Gen 1, oil level ok?
recently having issues while on motorway at about 40-60 the gearbox will jolt and i hear a clunk and then revs go to 0 and the car is just coasting until i brake to a stop then engine goes off , if i restart its fine but happens randomly
I am working on a 2011 BMW 730li, when I start the engine in all numbers, it is normal but from D to P, I get jerky, R, D to P have the phenomenon of the machine used as gas suffocation. What's the problem?
Good afternoon, Mr. Gerry, I'm Portuguese and I have an Audi A6 2.7 TDI C6 quattro 6hp19 HXM and I've already spent a lot of money in a mechanic's garage and the problem is that it slips in 3. Could you help me? Thank you Helder Ribeiro
@Gary Ferraro Hello Gary I truly enjoy these videos they are very informative and detailed I have the exact same vehicle and transmission can you direct me to where I can acquire all the necessary parts used in this rebuild Thanks in advance
@@GaryFerraro there really isn’t a problem now per say but the truck has high mileage and is starting to shift a bit harsh no codes stored so I was thinking of doing more of a proactive move to get ahead of the potential problem
Very informative video! Hopefully you might have some idea on a problem with my E60 with a ZF6HP26. It takes a while to engage a gear from a cold start. If I start the car in the morning or after sitting all day at work and I immediately select a gear D or R, there is no drive. If I give the car a small rev it thumps roughly in to the selected gear (I don't do this anymore, just an observation). If I start the car and wait 20 seconds then select a gear it will go just fine. It otherwise shifts and drives great, I have replaced the fluid and transmission pan/filter assembly as the fluid was also very black looking when I purchased the car. One other small thing I something notice is at very low load and RPM the car kind of surges sometimes as if I was pulsing on and off the accelerator pedal lightly (could be related?). Appreciate any insight you might have. Thanks in advance.
@@GaryFerraro it has a history code 4F81 EGS ratio monitoring clutch A. I checked all the fill pressures too as follows A=234 B=174 C=40 D=243 E=293 and all rapid fill times are 0 except B=13. All those adaptions were cleared when I replaced the filter and fluid. Thanks
@@GaryFerraro OK, I'll drop the valve body and replace it and the sleeve seals and mechatronic sleeve while I'm there I guess. Hopefully that will be the case. Thanks very much, appreciate your reply.
The Turbine speed sensor is part of the TCM, I send mine to Europe, there is a company called Softelectronic that repairs them, just had one done last week
@@GaryFerraro nice thing is that the speed sensor is sold on ebay, amazon, etc, and it is only a 50-60 bucks part. Comes as the whole brown assembly, or just the black tip which is the sensor itself. Now, that brown thingie attaches to the black thingie, either through soldering, or replacing the green circuit board or just clamps onto the black computer and is held together by a clasp, and the metal pin and all the bolts which come through it. Im curios to see what makes it stick together (since the brown part is sold separately) before taking the mechatronic and computer apart myself. (It will most likely be a DIY job )
how much does it run to install a bushing kit in a 5 series with the 6hp19? I have one with e gear faults when warm, and im assuming the stator bushing is worn. =(
@@Stridenttube5 The front assembly will come out as one, if your problem is only in the higher gears 4TH,5TH and 6TH, just replacing the rear stator bushing should fix it. I would also look at the E Clutch, they like to flake off and check the drum for cracks while the trans is out and apart
@@GaryFerraro I tried to rent a car lift from a shop or anywhere & do it myself but no luck... There used to be a few garages that cater to diy guys but there out of business now..
@@GaryFerraro intermittent limp mode when it gets hot... We talked about this several months ago.. I forget the code.. and its the cheapest route Im willing to go so Im keeping my fingers crossed thats the problem.. I wanted you to look at it but you're not local.. Im in SanFran..
Amaaaazing videos. Thank you so much. I have a 6hp26 valve body on the bench and I have a couple of quick questions. In your experience, while the valves/pistons (including solenoid valves/pistons) are in place and in their slots in the valve body, should I expect to get slight spring loaded movement from them (all*) using a finger to push on them? On mine, a couple don't seem to have a spring loaded movement at all - don't push in. Others don't feel as if they are spring loaded and move in and out slightly by hand with no spring load... Is this normal? Should I be able to get a SPRING loaded movement from all of them or do some have spring from the outer edge of the VB, while some have no spring feel or don't move at all? The VB halves are still together, plate in place, etc. I do have the solenoids out. Some of those valves don't seem to have any movement either with pressure applied. Any suggestion advice would be greatly appreciated.
Some of these valves, may or may not have springs, some do just float in the bore, better off checking the valve for movement since some do not have springs
@@GaryFerraro Maaaan,,,, thank you! The problem I was/am having is a p0782,,, 2-3 or 3-2 shift issue. Don't know why or what to think... Was going to replace usual soft parts and solenoids, filter and fluid. Maybe even the separator plate. Car is a 2004 Jag XKR Supercharged Portfolio Edition. Nice car, lots of headaches.
Hello, I have a 2008 LR3 Landrover 4.4L. I’m having a delay shift when the truck is cold, when it’s warm that’s gets a little bit better. If I’m in manual mode it’s fine but In auto sometimes it doesn’t shift from gear 5 to 6. What do you think could be the problem, and is there an email or number I can can contact you at?
@GaryFerraro No codes. D6 light won't come on when shifter is in D6. The D4 light comes on instead. Switching from D6 to D4 is no difference. The light showing it's out of overdrive on dashboard doesn't even show up when switching shifter from D6 to D4. I can't keep it in D5 while towing. It seems to just keep shifting into overdrive
@GaryFerraro I had the battery cables off of it for about a week. I did take battery cables off and on during that week to listen to the radio. I had to remove the entire head liner to repair that dreadful Ford poor design of using plastic parts in their sunroofs. After fixing it and driving it is when the problem started. Oh yeah, I did have a used rear end installed in it, too, but the shop tells me they never touched the transmission or battery cables. No more than the drive shift.
My car jaguar xf 2010 6 speed problem shaft from N To D and from N to R delay 3 second with clicking , if do rebuild the valve it will solved the problem
@@GaryFerraro well first I want to tell you I'm a fan of your work.i just bought a 2006 bmw 750li 87.000 miles clean as a whistle, you described in one video about how a trans with dhit down as you are coming to a red light or stop when I notice it shift from second to first its like the car is wanting to still pull, and if I don't come to a complete stop and try and go lightly on the gas and I mean lightly it slams in to gear .I know how to stop completely now so it doesn't slam or jerk you may say when I am at a light and take of it shifts smooth ,I am going to rebuild the valve body is there a complete kit I can get with everything .I am trying this route first I already have the 4 inserts coming and bridge.i am going to get numbers later for separator plate when I take off or can I order everything and have it ready ,I understand there might be a tag on the transmission that might save me a lot of time. THANK YOU.
@@richyrich5080 Those 2-1 downshift bump, i traced back to either worn bushings or solenoids, On the side of the trans, there may be a number that may begin with 1068, that number tells a lot about this trans, sometimes hard to read the number, the number would have to be decodes by ZF and they may be able to tell what the plate number is. I have some connections, if you can get the number i will see if i can call to get some info. if you need parts, i may be able to help you too
@@GaryFerraro I will be under the car tomorrow afternoon and will get back to you ,yes I will look up any numbers and we can make this happen ,thank you .
what is the problem with the trans? I will call tomorrow, sometimes i hear from them same day or the next, They should be able to tell me the plate number
@@GaryFerraro when I am just driving and if and when I need to slow down to about 2 mph and then give it gas lightly it jerked on me a couple of times and I mean a couple of times scared me a bit ,so thats why I have to come to a complete stop and then go ,it shifts real smooth from the start and even if I am in traffic ,but if I have to get the car down to shift from like 2nd to first the way I feel it it hesitate a Milla second ,and when I do come to a complete stop its almost like the trans is still trying to pull in first for a Milla second then its fine when your just standing there with your foot on the brake and even from the start it shifts beautifully so I am leaning towards rebuilding the valve body ,its a 2006 750li with a v8 trans serial number is 4092828. Model is 1068010123 its a 6hp-26 I believe we spoke about getting some parts and you would be able to assist in providing me with the right separator plate and a soonax kit a possibly a solenoid kit let me know thank you.
@@GaryFerraro my gearbox slips around 1500-2000 rpm in 2-3-4 gear with 20-30% thrtole ,with 10-15% no slips. So much fuel compsomation in city... Change oil zf , and correct level.Reset adaptation ,and relearn to new. Just change gears much better,but geabox slips again. No fault codes!! I think to clean valve body and change rubber parts in body,maybe clutch pack E ,becouse hard to relearn to new value. What you think?
@@GaryFerraro hi, i think find my problem.Check pressure clutches ,all in normal.Torque converter didnt lock only in 2200-2700 rpm is locked.after 2800-3500 get in "regulated" after 3500 get closed and car go fast on full throttle.I will change all rubber dampres, and other rubber parts and clean valve body.And change only 1 solenoid ,who control tcc(torque converter clutch). Is it problem with electric that i change only 1 solenoid ? Because other will be old and 1 new.
I have a ZF 6HP26 on my 07 Range Rover. It had P0730 code . i pulled E clatch and replaced all friction and steel plates since they were all burnt out. i also replaced bushing. after assembling everything together i still get 3-4 gear slipping and then puts it on failsafe gear 3. what will be the issue? please help
@@GaryFerraro Thanks for your respond Gary. am your #1 fan. I did not replace the seal but i checked the drum is good. i will replace the whole valve body with new solenoid as well. i will get back to you when i replace it.
@@GaryFerraro No i have to take it to a nearby jaguar land rover expert. is it possible to reset it without going to the expert? i saw online procedure where you reset by pressing accelerator pedal all the way and ignition on II ? i have a simple i car soft scanner LR V2.0
Ничем не удивил, может закусить резинки, нужно вставлять с проворотом, ебу подковыривать нежелательно, можно повредить пластик, этот блок имеет множество проблем непосредственно по самому телу блока и как таковой диагностики небыло. I wasn’t surprised by anything, it can bite the rubber bands, you need to insert it with a twist, it’s undesirable to pick the fuck up, you can damage the plastic, this block has many problems directly on the body of the block itself and there was no diagnostic as such
this is an easy job u can do just be patient doing it as these parts are very sensitive. even if a backyard mechanic is doing it , just supervise it and make sure they are taking their time and not rushing it, else when u done, u will probably end up ruining the entire transmission
