Zoom F3 user guide, best settings 

Thanks for the feedback ✌️

Thanks 👍

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks👍

Glad it helped

Glad it was helpful ✌️

Thanks, will do!✌️

You're welcome!

Glad it was helpful, cheers!

Get the F6 if you can afford it specially if timecode is part of your workflow.

You're welcome!

Thanks 👌

Thanks for the visit👍

You're welcome!

So because it uses dual ad converters, it uses one converter for the quit sounds and another for the loud. So like I explained to someone else in the comments 32 bit provides a large dynamic range but not unlimited. Ultimately louder sound will have less noise when brought down to match audio that was initially recorded at a lower amplification setting and then amplified in post,( it’s usually a small difference it won’t be night and day, but also relative to how much you amplify it) in theory you can keep it at any amplification, however it is good practice to set it according your particular situation. Definitely I won’t keep it at x64 all the time, if used with a highly sensitive microphone while recording something that’s more loud that usual may cause it to actually clip, making it unrecoverable. Every 32 bit device has a limit in terms of how much it can go over 0 dB. The Zoom F3 can handle really loud sounds that is until you pair it with a highly sensitive mic and the audio source in close to the mic. Hope this helps, thanks.

@@florinG thank you so much for the detailed explanation!

@@florinG One last question if you don't mind. Taking the sensitivity specs of a Sennheiser MKH 416 (which I'll be using as a boom on talent for short films) What amplification would you recommend? The mic will likely be 2-3 feet away from subjects mouths. I think right now I have at 16x. Thanks so much for your time :)

Thanks, I’ll try add some download links for those files, cheers 👍

Here is a Link that is valid for 7 Days(we.tl/t-5ZWtTnK2hq), cheers.

Thank you very much. Tonight the link worked. I greatly appreciate your skill and effort. (The link earlier didn't work.) I look forward to using it to learn how to really operate the F3.

Thanks for the feedback, have you tried push and pulling with a pair of tweezers?

I have nothing against tascam but unfortunately I cannot recommend it over the F3, the preamps are a bit noisier the noise gate on it can introduce distortions, the screen is laggy,( plus it has bugs, like making random sound when stopping a recording, not showing the right battery percentage, or inconsistent touchscreen) build quality is poorer, battery life isn't as good, and menu isn't any better in my opinion(it's also confusing). The x6 may have some additional options/functions, but I'm afraid I cannot recommend it in fact I sold mine. I prefer the f3 for my personal use. Ultimately it's your choice and but i would get the f3 unless you need those additional options/functions on the x6 specifically. By the way if you decide in to get the f3 i can send you those diagrams i made for the menu, also have a look at zoom h4 essential. At the moment I have the h4 essential but didn't get to test it/ review it(I'm planning to do ASAP) but check some reviews maybe that could an option as well, anyway thanks for watching and hope you choose the one that fits your need best, thanks.

One thing to consider, the f3 doesn't have a 3.5mm TRS in if I remember right, cheers.

Well I bought the X6 on sale and I guess I will find out which suits me best. I have and hate the F3. I record on my Canon R8 czmera and I send the audio into Screenflow which has a great comp/eq feature which takes away any hum; so I am hoping the do all on one screen rather than the 8 button convoluted menu system of the F3

I just received the Tascam X6 and find it sounds much better than my F3, The screen and menu are fantastic, the abundance of features is amazing, the mics sound great, and it is much quieter than the F3 and it cost less...X6-A+ vs F3-C-. I'll keep the F3 for my 4K Canon G50 camcorder, and the X6 for my Canon R8 & YT videos.

Hi, it really depends on your budget, how many inputs you need and the microphones that you’ll be using with them. The F3 has slightly cleaner preamps and can do 32 bit, and can be powered by a power bank but has no built in mic and no 3.5mm TRS input, thanks 👍

@@florinG Thanks for your comment. I'm just diving into the audio equipment world. Does the F3 require some audio software wizardry, or does it already deliver charming recordings straight out of the box?

Linear is 24 Bit, float is 32 Bit. 24 bit allows a limited dynamic range audio to be recorded, which can clip and distort if an unexpectedly loud sound is being picked up by the mic, or if you go very close to mics that are sensitive. 32 bit on the other hand allows a higher dynamic range which eliminates the risk of running into such issues. I usually keep it at 24 bit in the studio for speach and have it at 32 for any other application, cheers.

Hi, as far as I know the F3 can be used with time code via Bluetooth only using the Atomos ultra sync blue. The Diety TC-1 sends the signal via TRS, BCN or 5 Pin. A workaround could be possible if the Diety can send it as audio signal(I do not know if it has this function) in which case you will have to sacrifice one of your inputs on the f3, otherwise time code jam between the two devices isn’t possible, if you have any doubts or further questions, you could also try contacting the manufacturers, thanks✌️

Each channel has a dedicated + and - all you have to do is press the moins until its is reduced. Make sure the source inputs are set correctly. for example if you have getting your audio from a line while your recorder is set to receive from a mic, you will see the exceeded limit warnings. Hope this helps a bit. thanks

Hi, depending on what you’re recording I suggest you adjust the inputs so that you can accommodate both the loudest and the quietest sounds within the same recording(if that’s what you aim for). For example if you’re recording a party and things are not so loud(just people having chats and laughter) but all of a sudden there’s fireworks, it’s best to adjust your levels lower(in anticipation/preparation) for the particular event), the preamps although they can record in 32 bit float which gives a large head room in terms of dynamic range it’s not unlimited and they can still be clip especially if you’re shooting with a highly sensitive microphone, what I would do is set it lower than usual because it shouldn’t introduce much noise if any when bringing the quiet portion of the audio up, and if it does it can easily be cleaned with a bit of de-noise in post. But I’m most situations just adjusting it following the steps explained in the video works just fine, thanks.

To record stereo you need to utilise both XLR inputs.

It allows audio input straight to headphone output without passing it through heavy circuitry hence providing low to minimal latency, that in turn gives a better experience when monitoring your audio, thanks.

It would have to be an XLR lapel. It can also be used with a 3.5mm lapel but it would require an adapter such as a Rode VXLR+/PRO because it does not have a 3.5mm port, thanks.

From my experience as I only do speech (voice/dialogues) it doesn’t make any difference, however some musicians claim that it does in the high frequency spectrum especially when recording instruments, now I’m not going to say that it doesn’t because I don’t have a much experience with music. Scientifically it’s not possible to hear anything beyond 20kHz. Musicians claim that mastering and mixing can be handled better if recorded at higher samples rates, so if you plan on mastering or mixing I guess it does help recording at a higher sample rate. Hope this answers your question.

@@florinG thank you!

@@florinG most microphones will cut off at around to 20 kHz, but not necessarily with a steep slope. So there might be signal components which are beyond 20 kHz, say 30 kHz , which is only half an octave above. So it would make sense to sample at more than 48 kHz. A word about our auditory sense: if you would not hear beyond 15 or 20 kHz, why are you able to tell the difference between a sine wave and a square wave at these frequencies?

100%, it should be built in, it costs close to nothing to do it.

@@florinG I wouldn’t mind paying $40 if it ONLY did data transfer. Who wants to plug shit in or remove cards all the time? I can’t believe Zoom. This sucks