Hi, yes, all the microphones that I have used and had 3.5mm TRS connection required ~5V plug in power, however I have not tried all possible mics out there and there are exceptions but for the most part they do require power. As for which of the two is the better one they’re not very different, that said the pro provides a balanced output, providing a cleaner output in situations where there may be interference, thanks.
I have used a dummy battery for years and never had an issue with it. Provided it’s a good quality one I think it should be fine. I believe Sony makes one as well. If you want to be sure your camera won’t sustain any damage from it, then perhaps you can go for the Sony one, it will however be more pricey.
Hello, great video! Do you have any opinion on the quality of the H4N Pro as an audio interface? I'm waiting for my new XLR t.bone sc140 and i wonder if i should also get an audio interface or if the H4N pro will be fine 🤔 Btw, my h4n pro recently also doesn't want to turn on sometimes and if i try 2-3 times it eventually boots up normally even without the battery trick. I suspect its a fault with the usb connector or with the cable.
I own this camera and it's wonderful. Nikon, add the ability to record 6K 25/30p video to the new firmware, once you have added a recording to N-log. Let connoisseurs of classic ergonomics unlock the potential of the camera to the fullest!
Love my version 2. Would have got X2T, but gets in the way a bit when shooting and being a bit older now, screen is a bit small. For me, build quality is fine.
Hello. I bought the Zoom h4n pro and when i push the trs in it goes most of the way but not all the way. I dont want to push and force it but it seems like it really needs alot of force to push in. Am i doing something wrong???? Its the plug for my electric guitar??
Hi, the plug should have around 31mm(1.2 inch) in lenght and 6.35mm (1/4 inch) width. If yours is the same size and wont go all the way fully make sure there's nothing jammed in the socket, if it still doesn't go in there may be a problem with your recorder, cheers.
One issue I had with the XPro-S was that it simply did not work in TTL mode. Exposure was completely unreliable. At least that was the case with my A74 & A7R4. I would like to know if this problem was resolved with the new trigger. Anyone know for sure?
It works with both, can’t remember if it makes any difference in terms of noise, but it works with both. As a rule of thumb household electricity is ac( alternating current) and anything the comes from batteries, power banks, etc is dc( direct current). I’d be more concerned about finding something that’s around 5V-2Amp. Those cables that fit the power supply can be found on eBay/ Amazon. They are called ‘USB Type A to 4.0 x 1.7mm Barrel Jack Connector ‘ here are some links >> Amazon link: amzn.eu/d/fQCxeaT , EBay link: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134953421677?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=TrmQ51h5R1u&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=dH95ykkhSPW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY. Thanks 👌
I've read that the adapter is working with the a7 IV, but only in AF-C, not in AF-S mode. Can you confirm that and tell something about the performance? Thinking about that adapter for my a7R V and a7 IV is the closest generation of the AF algorithm
At moment the only camera I have available to test it with is zv-e1 my A7iv is not available. As far as compatibility information from the manufacturer they do not mention any Sony camera beyond a7riii/a7iii. When I tested it on my a7iv it did not work. I will update you when I find out more, thanks.
@@florinG Even better, because your ZV-E1 is the same generation as my a7R V with the same hardware (BIONZ XR and AI processor + same firmware). So if it will work with the ZV-E1 with AF-C at least, it should also work on the a7R V and most likely also other models of that generation. It's said that it will only work exclusively with phase-AF on the a7 IV. The AF-C is pure phase-AF, while AF-S is contrast and phase combined.
I have tried it on the ZV-E1 and it does work in continuous AF it's a bit slow but does work it even picks up the eye, but only in photography. when used in video it automatically turns to MF and if try to switch to other focus modes while in video it says !LENS Invalid with this lens. Hope this helps, thanks.
@@florinG Great news. I've ordered the adapter and will try it with the a7R V, so the big brother of yours. I don't care about the speed as long as it's working (I've heard only the latest firmware slows down the AF). What I'm more curious about is: Does it even focus well at the edges and corners? One general issue with Sony cameras is, that most adapters only focus well in the mid frame/center but don't work in edges and corners. I have a Techart LM-EA9 manual lens autofocus adapter that makes allmost all manual and vintage lenses become autofocus lenses (with limited focus range, so you must prefocus a bit with long (over ~50mm) and wide aperture (depends on focal lengh, Helios 44-2 works perfectly) lenses). It only works in AF-S and AF-C, only in photo mode and only focusing well in the mid frame. Another Viltrox Canon EF adapter also only focuses well in the mid frame. At least even if the Commlight would focus only in the mid frame with my Nikon 135mm F2 DC, it's still somehow usable with the full autofocus range with some limitations. But it would be great, if it works in the edges and corners as well. I really love that DC lens. For now it works almost perfect in the center and very limited focus range with the Techart adapter. Can you please confirm, if the Commlite adapter focuses objects in the corners or at least edges as well?
@@schildzilla it did glitch on one my attempts to focus in the corner(screen froze, had to turn the camera off), but yes it does seem to focus in the corners, it does it in steps so it's kind of sluggish not instant like with native lenses, probably just as slow as anywhere else in the frame. that techart LM-EA9 is cool will have to try it out one time. At the moment I'm playing with a Megadap ETZ21Pro probably one of the best adapter I have used so far, it allows Sony lenses work almost just as good as native.
Linear is 24 Bit, float is 32 Bit. 24 bit allows a limited dynamic range audio to be recorded, which can clip and distort if an unexpectedly loud sound is being picked up by the mic, or if you go very close to mics that are sensitive. 32 bit on the other hand allows a higher dynamic range which eliminates the risk of running into such issues. I usually keep it at 24 bit in the studio for speach and have it at 32 for any other application, cheers.
It allows audio input straight to headphone output without passing it through heavy circuitry hence providing low to minimal latency, that in turn gives a better experience when monitoring your audio, thanks.
Hi, is the motor noise and ambient noise picked up by the camera mic's in the footage, ie. like in a room or studio environments, I have the dl100 and the motor noise is picked up and its bad
I've tried various dynamic mics, but I choose definitely sE Electronics V7, it requires only a bit eq versus other brands, even I bought a V7 capsule for my Sennheiser wireless mic
Hi, yes the same setup should work if your Panasonic has a mic/line in port. I’d make sure to enable a limiter for that scenario and also if you can test it before hand in case adjustments need to be made, thanks.
It depends where and how you use it/what modifiers you use with it. It can somewhat be used(as direct flash) but, anything like high speed sync, used with umbrellas,softbox it is on the weak side from my experience it does not provide enough power for outdoors use during the day, I usually take at least an ad200 or higher when I shoot outside, thanks.
when using v860iii off camera, you won't need the modelling lamp, so it being blocked is a mute point. The modelling light is for dark clubs where the flash is on camera and helps with focusing.
"Optional features" has been moved to system section is Setting App recently. Open Settings > System then scroll down to the button, you will see "Optional Features".
I bought rhe F3 but am disappointed in the archaic menu system and Bluetooth not being able to do file transfers to the computer; so I am thinking of getting a tascam X6. But you say thar the f3 is quieter, but shouldn't the highpass filter and noise gate make the X6 better sounding? I really like the look of the X6 screen as the F3 has a lame menu and button system. Thanks.
I have nothing against tascam but unfortunately I cannot recommend it over the F3, the preamps are a bit noisier the noise gate on it can introduce distortions, the screen is laggy,( plus it has bugs, like making random sound when stopping a recording, not showing the right battery percentage, or inconsistent touchscreen) build quality is poorer, battery life isn't as good, and menu isn't any better in my opinion(it's also confusing). The x6 may have some additional options/functions, but I'm afraid I cannot recommend it in fact I sold mine. I prefer the f3 for my personal use. Ultimately it's your choice and but i would get the f3 unless you need those additional options/functions on the x6 specifically. By the way if you decide in to get the f3 i can send you those diagrams i made for the menu, also have a look at zoom h4 essential. At the moment I have the h4 essential but didn't get to test it/ review it(I'm planning to do ASAP) but check some reviews maybe that could an option as well, anyway thanks for watching and hope you choose the one that fits your need best, thanks.
Well I bought the X6 on sale and I guess I will find out which suits me best. I have and hate the F3. I record on my Canon R8 czmera and I send the audio into Screenflow which has a great comp/eq feature which takes away any hum; so I am hoping the do all on one screen rather than the 8 button convoluted menu system of the F3
I just received the Tascam X6 and find it sounds much better than my F3, The screen and menu are fantastic, the abundance of features is amazing, the mics sound great, and it is much quieter than the F3 and it cost less...X6-A+ vs F3-C-. I'll keep the F3 for my 4K Canon G50 camcorder, and the X6 for my Canon R8 & YT videos.
I honestly don't see the appeal of V1 at all, sure it has an even spread of light compared to V860III which I don't really see mattering that much to begin with, besides this the magnetic gel attachment is cool and quick but that's it.
Yes, I agree for me I doesn’t matter much because I do not shoot using direct flash but it matter for some other people, and attaching things to a rectangular flash can easily be achieved through adapters, it could also be a marketing strategy for Godox to diversify their products I guess.
Hi, while charging the motor stops and won't start again till charger has been disconnected, it cannot be controlled through the app either whilst charging, thanks.
