I received a fed 1 camera, and it is exactly the same!, I had wondered as to how I would work it, it bieng from 1934, but this video saved me, thank you very much for making this
Dear Seasun5242 Suggest take to camera repareman. You might recock shutter and press shutter release several times. BUT don't force it. Make sure there is no film in camera or count number of frames and rewind film before you play with shutter. You might twist shutter speed dial in opposit direction and release shutter to see if that clears it. You lift knob and feel for pin to locate detant hidden underneath dial. This is very delicate and could break spring so go gentle. Use intuition and a couple hail marrys.etc. if your too afraid take it to camera repareman. I had same issue with nikon S shutter. Shirt a little ronsknol lighter fuel on shutter gears under bottom plate. Watch out you don't get fluid in range prism or lens. Remove lens first. Use these procedures at own risk. Best take to repareman. Hope this helps. Also tripod can damage bottom plate and crimp the shutter gears. Go light when securing to tripod screw. Thin block of wood with hole may prevent distorting bottom plate of camera. On mine I suspect it dragged on shutter gears thus slowing shutter. Each camera different. Hard to tell that's why repareman a good idea. Don't force it! If your conscience says no, then don't. HOPE this helps. Remember use at own risk I'm not an expert just a tinkered. A watch repareman or camers.repareman probably best bet. Or if you have owners manual. Best of luck.😅
Thanks for the great video with detailed instruction of operation, I prefer the Fed 2 more due to the more practical design especially in film loading.
Dear Bangwillies I'm not Demetrius but do use a rangefinder nikon, I believe it is to reckcock shutter and reset shutter speed. Evertime you want to take new picture u must record shutter. Then shutter speed, focus w. Range..compose thru rt.hand view.f. etc. Remember to use light meter. Light meter read use arrow position. Read scale and corresponding combinations available and transfer to aperture ring on zorchi 1 c, then cocktail shutter chose shutter speed fom meter and set camera shutter dial to match meter indicated speed f.stop combo. Fred swedlands fotography for everone, good book. Or leica manual book should cover basic use. Hope this helps.
Dear Nadish, take it into dark room and set the camera t o rewind. Do it in the dark. If camera fights you take to repareman. Use at own risk. Hope this helps bye😅
Dear Xjayom, it's important because Rick breaking shutter spring etc.your exposures will be way off if not black. Or half a frame etc. On mine I was able to flick the dial in the opposite direction but remember cloth shutters very delicate risk snapping the spring or gears. Each camera different. If your worried best take to repareman. Or consult owners manual I'd available or maybe on internet. Find so Someone who has same camera and pick their brains. If it's an expensive camera send it to camera repareman. It will probably be very expensive. But you might luck out.use at own risk.these are just some ideas to consider. Hope this helps.
Thank you for the video very Informative! My camera shutter seems to be out of whack the selectable slots are not aligned with the shutter speeds on the wheel. Is there a way to fix it?
The shutter speed knob numbers are properly aligned to the arrow only after you advance the film. Before cocking they look as if they are out of order. If the misalignment also occurs after cocking, then it seems that the camera must have been used for a long time improperly. That means that the shutter speed was set before advancing the film. See 5:54 . Try using it properly for a few times (first advance, then choose speed) and select all the speeds randomly several times. This sometimes fixes the problem by itself. if not, you need to take it for repair. Another solution, is to keep it as it is, but you need to note or remember the re-arrangement of the speeds on the dial, the way they are now.
Dear NezloBoris ech camers different hard to say. Try small square black electrical tape over rangefinder or viee finder window. It may help contrast and focus. But this is just something i read. I dont actualy know for sure. If you cant bring the two images togetheter you will have trouble focusing. Suggest clip on range findet will attach to cold shoe? If you have one. Auxhiliary clip on rangefinder may help. I only know about nikon S and early leicas not so much becsuse i dont own one. Sorry im not much help but would have to see the camera. Best take to technician or scan the net for your particular model. Hope this helps. Als camera repare in grants pass oregon used to work on nikons. But i think hes out of business. Try Portland camera repare. It will be expensive probably but may be worth it i dont know. Sorry not more help. Keep looking for your model on internet and see what othet owners doing about same problem. Use at own risk! Bye
The winding knob is also the frame counter, but you'll have to set it to "0" before starting taking photos, so as to count properly the frames (see 4:23 )
ive got a quick question- while going through the video I was playing around with the shutter speed as you were explaining it, possibly breaking both warnings before I got to them. There is no film in the camera or anything, I was just trying to figure out how it works and I am currently slightly worried if I have broken it without realising. Is there a way to check if I have ruined anything, or did the fact that there is no film in it save me?
Having a film inside won't make any difference than not having. Now you should check if all of the shutter speeds are working properly, following of course those 2 "caution" rules! Start with '60' and see if it fires, then choose the fastest '500', fire the shutter and afterwards the slowest '20' and fire the shutter again. The sound should be slightly different, with the '20' sounding a bit slower. Then choose 'Z' and use it as if you were taking a long exposure (see 6:13 on this video). If that works, it means that there is probably no problem. If that doesn't seem to work (for example, if the 'z' works as a normal speed and not long exposure), repeat checking and firing with all the available speeds, including 'Z' from time to time. You don't need to have film inside for all of that.
Hi. I have a question regarding the Industar -22 lens removal, without screwing up the rangefinder. Do i have to focus to minimum focus distance just like when removing Jupiter 8 or do i have to focus the lens to infinity?
These videos are relaxing as they are informative. (: Could you tell me if the Zorki-1 (and FED-1 specifically) can take the same battery? If so, any idea what that might be, a little button cell maybe? Do these older models even require a battery, I know they don't have a light meter?
If by "film speed" you mean the shutter speed ( 5:40 ) then the speed is set according to the lighting conditions and the aesthetic result you need in each photo. If you take a series of photos in the same environment, then most probably you won't need to change the speed. By the way, the term "film speed" means the sensitivity of the film to light, which is actually the ISO (ASA). In film photography this is standard and cannot be changed as it is a unique chemical characteristic of each film roll.
It won't be a problem. There are a few variations of take-up spools. In case there is a problem, you can always use some tape to keep the film on the spool. But in this case you won't be able to fully rewind it.
If you can't see the yellow circle and the alignment of the images as you turn the focus ring, it means that there is a problem with your rangefinder. But your lens should be fine and you can take photos by calculating the focus distance yourself. A broken rangefinder doesn't affect the actual lens focus.
Hi there, I have accidentally rewinded the film wrong and now the film is stuck. Is there any way that you can provide tips on how I can remove the film? I don’t want to force it as I’m worried I’ll ruin it.
Make sure you have the rewind switch to "B" position (see 8:47) and then try rewinding. If it doesn't move, try setting the rewind switch back to normal and try gently to advance the film forward. If it moves forward, repeat the procedure of rewinding and see if it has been released. If you can't move the film at all, then you'll have to open the camera in a completely dark room or a light sealed bag and try removing it with your hands, with the rewind switch always to "B". If nothing happens you will have to cut the film and rewind what it is left to save any images, and the rest, unfortunately will have to be removed in light. And generally don't force anything if it is stuck. Camera mechanisms are easy to break if forced.
Why is it important to first advance the film and then choose the shutter speed? I know it’s not the same camera but I have a Zenit with the same shutter speed knob and am now wondering why this is so important..?
This is because it could cause damage to the mechanism or desynchronize the shutter speed. In Zenit cameras this is not the case and the speed can be changed before advancing. But to be certain you should advise the user manual.
It is exactly the same (with minor exterior differences). They started as FED-Zorki, and then the production split in two different factories and two different names. But both are copies of Leica.
Great video and so very helpful! I've just bought a Zorki 1 and there's just one point of confusion, which is setting the shutter speed. After winding the film forward, I lift the shutter knob and align the desired shutter speed number with the arrow mark but I am unable to push the knob back down. If the knob has to go back down, then the shutter speed number and arrow are not aligned. In your video, it appears that you don't push the shutter knob back down after lifting it to turn it. Shouldn't the knob be pushed back down at the point where the shutter speed number and arrow are aligned?
The shutter speed knob has a spring that forces it back to place when you lift it. You mustn't have to push it back. There must be a problem with that. But if the speeds work properly you won't have an issue taking photos. If the speeds do not work, then there is something broken. Also make sure you don't turn the speed knob between 500 and "Z" (bulb) (see 6:04) and finally check the rewind switch is not at "B" (see 1:23).
Thanks! For the Zorki 4 take a look at this one ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0tX1KFX2j2c.html It is very similar and it might help you.