Thank you for checking my channel out! Hopefully you find things here helpful for all your DIY journeys! This channel will include travels, mechanical repair, fun, and more!!
@@PinoyStyleDIY ah mgsend kc ko ng pic nung speed sensor ko... nka h22 swap kc ko... e parang convert kc gus2 kong makita ung buong assembly ng manual speed sensor kng ano itsura.. hehhe
Just ordered one for my 99 model from Rockauto, 50 bucks. Autozone wants $101 for that duralast. Mine is intermittent right now. Works about 99.9% of the time then it will fail for about 5 minutes then start working again. Hope this fixes my issue. If not, I'll have to start hunting wires. I'm thinking this lil part was probably not intended to be used the way I use my car. Cruise locked in at 85 for 3 hours at a time....with the occasional angry foot to 150 to get away from the morons. Car only has 97k miles on it.
RockAuto hasn't failed me yet! I love shopping from them too! I wish we could drive those speeds here in VA.. In my area, we're capped at 60mph.. little over that, in most cases, is a ticket.. If the replacement part works intermittently, check on your wirings.. you may have an open, short to ground, or loose connections..
Hey man thanks for all the videos on this swap it’s helped me a lot swapping a h22a in my prelude type sh and did you solder everything from obd2 to the obd1 harness?
I had to reflow the pins to correct flickering lights on the climate control of my 4th gen. I got this same problem on my 5th gen. I reflowed the pins. It fixed the problem just long enough for me to get very happy and proud. Then the problem came back and crushed me. I might try to reflow them again, but I’m concerned that I might add too much solder and the points begin to touch. I took off the blend door actuator and tested that the motor does work… but I don’t know if maybe the motor has gotten too weak. Replacement actuators are not available, but replacement motors to swap into the actuators are readily available and cheap.
hello Pinoy-Style-DIYer!! i just wanted to say i LOVE your videos. im currently doing an obd1 to obd1 (4th gen Prelude) engine swap from an H23A1 (1994 Prelude Si 4WS) to the JDM H22A Black Top (which doesnt have the CKP as in your video, since you cut it off), and the wiring diagram you provided is SO crucial for anyone with OBD2 (5th gen) Preludes. Again, I really do not mean to offend in any manner, but I dont know what it is about a rather larger man doing an engine swap (alone).. and your very "simple" directions with the monotone voice (or maybe i should say calm voice?)... but it really helps calms my nerves and lessens my anxiety when tackling the same jobs. its very soothing watching these videos. you are really appreciated and i really hope your videos blow up!!!! you deserve every bit of it. thank you for all the videos and taking the time to record, edit, and post them. they are really helpful not just in information, but relaxing peoples conception that it takes a "professional" to do the job. I LOVE YOU, MAN!!! lol 👍
See i keep getting told i cant pull it thru the top since i have the auto. I just need to get it all out. I dont have room to drop thru the bottom in my garage.
I’m at the point of putting the trans back on and the dowel pins line up but the black bracket that connects to the intake manifold doesn’t line up to the trans anymore. Any reason why the black bracket with the 4 bolts aren’t lining up even tho the trans lines up to the engine?
It may line itself up once some of the mounts are installed.. definitely check the bolts that connect the trans to engine.. make sure they're lined up really well..
@@PinoyStyleDIYdo you put the trans mount first and then line up the trans or the trans first and then the mount to line it up? Also the top and starter side lined up but the black bracket didn’t, not sure if it’s because the trans was on a angle
You should be good if you have both dowel pins lined up to both of their holes.. Once the shaft is in, try to turn the trans left to the right / up down motion to seat it in while you make sure that both dowel pins line up before threading your first bolt.. Transmission first, then mount..
My son has a 5th gen prelude. He said his RPM gauge stopped working, any ideas what to check? I am not finding anything on youtube. Thanks in advance. We used your videos to replace the clutch on his car. Bro those were on point. Thanks in advance
These are the things you want to check: There's a capped connector close to the fender. Check the continuity with that blue wire to your distributor. There's a small blue wire in the dizzy connector. That is your rpm signal wire.. Remove cluster, make sure all connector to cluster is intact and clean.. It could be a dizzy failure, and / or ecm.. But most of the time, it's just an open circuit between the blue wire from the dizzy to the tachometer [cluster].
Thanks for posting this great video. Will those internal O-rings fit the Japanese version of the Accord Euro R, which has the same H22A engine? Also, if possible, what is the part number? Oops, you explained the part number at the beginning of your video, sorry. But when I search for the O-ring, I only find a single O-ring on the camshaft side. Does the single part number for the internal O-ring exist in your country? In Japan, that part number seems to be the single part number for the outer O-ring.
Thank you for shooting this detailed video. I was confused when I came across the drivers side axle, I have never seen a setup like that before and wanted to watch a video of the removal first before I screw up anything. Thanks again!
I originally used advance auto parts car quest platinum ceramic pads when I did the front brakes on my 17 stx but they were horrible, they made noise and vibrated, and they caused so much dust all over my front wheels. I switched back to oem pads, and haven’t had any issues since. Lesson of the year, always buy oem parts, you will thank me later.
I know it's been a while since this post but could you tell me which way the wires are going into the plug on that vss. My plug caught fire and melted. I bought a new vss with pigtail but wires are different colors
This is from Shimee at Prelude Power: The BLU/WHT goes to the gauge cluster, the BLK/YEL is (+) and goes to fuse no. 14, the BLK goes to the ground. Download the Helms manual from here (www.preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312936) and turn to pages 23-62 for more information.
I have a 96 5 speed manual,Honda prelude s. My speedometer isn't working,when I scanned the car the code said it's the vss. Is the vss in the same spot? I had a transmission shop tell me that my vehicle does not have a VSS because it's a manual
I saw another video where it shows a 25 amp fuse being used on the external obd2 harness plug. Also. I checked rywire for their 50$ harness like the one you made in this video and they say on the description that usdm ecu will throw a cam sensor code and that they recommend an obd1 ecu . On my state they have emissions testing I bought a 01 prelude with a H22A but overheated I bought a new H22A and I’m thinking of going the route you took . What do you recommend. Love your videos . Thanks!
I know several guys in Cali who have emissions. They use obd1 ecu and did the wiring I have here.. they said it all passed emissions testing.. the method i used here shouldn't throw any cam sensor issues as it is getting signals from the dizzy.. unless you swap the obd2 components to the obd1 to have the plug for it and use stock harness and stock obd2 ecu..
@@PinoyStyleDIY thanks for the reply. So did you use 25 amp fuse on the obd2 ignition harness to jump the two thick gauge wires on the external coil conector?
Base, easy peasy. Prelude SH, with the axle is SEIZED into the atts. Not so easy. Spent 4 hours removing two front bolts holding the atts to the engine block. Because I had to notch the driver side axle inner cup with a flexible Dremel attachment so that I could squeeze in a socket. For the upper front atts bolt. Only way to remove the axle from the atts is to destroy the atts by cutting the output shaft.
I did a similar swap. H22a in my 2001 prelude. Obd1 ecu. Obd1 dizzy. Obd2 to obd1 jumper. Now my mail relay won’t click on. And car won’t start. But with the obd2 ecu main relay clicks on and gives me fuel etc? Do I have to bypass immobilizer since I did obd1 comversion\jumper
ECU: Obd1 ecu doesn't use immobilizer. You need your Obd1 ecu chipped and socketed to get that to work.. obd1 prelude ecu won't work well on obd2 chassis. You need a p28 ecu or similar to it and chip it.. IMMOBILIZER: Immobilizer bypass will also work. www.hamotorsports.com/pages/97-01-honda-prelude-starter-bypass-information
Hey bro, thanks for the video. I ended up reflowing the board and still have the same issue. Just bought a used replacement climate control unit and will try that in case I soldered it wrong. If this doesn’t work, do you have any other suggestions? I verified the blower motor is working as I can feeling it vibrating when on and air does come out of the defrosting windshield and window vents.
I keep reading you have to remove the balancer or it won't come out. You proved that wrong, but did you time the replacement motor and put it in with the balancer on? I had read a post its hard to do in the truck because the back plug/bolt to stop the crank at TDC is hard to use once the motor is in the car because of little space between its position and the axle shaft/carrier bearing bracket. Can you speak to that? I'm on the verge of this swap, but I'd like to time the replacement motor and put it in with the balancer already attached.
You don't have to remove the balancer.. it's tight, but with just the right angle, it'll give you enough clearance to lift the engine up.. As far as the replacement engine, it's always good to time it, then install.. The balancer is installed when I dropped the engine in..
Help needed...I have leak from my distributor .I order and replace o ring ( Honda Dealer)...I had the same issue..Then i bought new o ring next step thicker than the original one..Same story again😥I remove the distributor cap so i will check if the leak is from inner seal but inside the distributor there is NO any oil is clean like new...So i guest the inner seal is ok Is it possible inside cup to be clean without any oil but still my inner seal to be faulty? Thanks in advance
