I used to make videos about miniatures, a mix of tutorial videos and product reviews. I haven't made any in a while, and probably won't be in the future, sorry.
Some people like my voice, some people hate it, you should watch a video or two and decide for yourself.
This will be my first time trying something like this. I'm just waiting for some clippers I ordered to arrive in 4 days. Really appreciate this video. Please wish luck.
Did this last night as I'm so fed up of dried paint wasting away my money, so glad I did it, I used just the flow aid and it worked perfectly, I like to add my thinner to the airbrush cup before the paint and when I'm using a brush I like my paints to sit up a bit on my palette so they don't dry out but its not only so much better to use it also looks so much nicer on my paint shelf having the bottles match the rest of my paints.
The first miniature I painted was a warhammer mini and now he sits on display at my local game store in the diorama they made along with a few other minis i painted after him
great tutorial, Thank you! You sound so similar to another great teacher of a different hobby on youtube @phillygoldenteacher accents probably different but.....
I don't think I had a particularly specific strategy when making the notches other than trying to keep them vaguely even. I may have compared them to the distance on the actual blood bowl boards to get a vague idea of the size that they're supposed to be, but basically just went along perpendicular to the popsicle stick cutting in deep enough that I had clear seperation between the bottom and top of the notches and then used my knife to pop out every other tooth.
Depends on the look you are going for. If you are wanting really trim and well kept grass that is all standing up, then yes. For something like Blood Bowl bases, where it will have being trodden upon so should look a bit squashed and unkempt, I generally don't, and just use an old brush to fluff it up if it is looking to flat before the glue dries.
I also dislike green stuff liquid, i roll a small piece of 2 part green stuff putty. I tried miliput, but its too sticky to start with, but after a bit loses some of the stickyness. As a note, you can also use thin superglue to fill a seam. Just add some into a seam, then add more after to fill up the seam or gap. It can be sanded down or scrape smooth after
A lil tip. If possible use that glue on the gaps before you prime or paint it. I touched up some spots I forgot and got paint on my Tamiya glue brush !. I rushed to clean it so the bristles are not stuck together and painted.
It is possible. The potential issue is going to be that now you are glueing the model to paint instead of the material of the base itself. This isn't too much of an issue with traditional paint jobs because the paint is normally pretty secure and/or plastic cement will melt acrylic paint too, so you can get a strong bond. That being said, when using a crackle paint like this, since it tends to be more prone to flaking, I would attach the model first, or use a bit blue tack or something to mask when painting the base to leave where the model is going to connect free of paint, so you can get a strong bond there.
I am not definitely sure, but I suspect not, for using gesso as a primer on minis. Gesso is generally used for priming canvas and boards, aka flat surfaces that don't get handled alot after painting. It is composed of chalk/gypsum, binder, and pigments, so tend to be inflexible. Primers used for minis are often a mix of acrylic and polyurethane, so are more flexible and designed to chemically bind with plastic. I am pretty sure this video is my best video on priming.
Ok so I got the assault intercessor pack will that paint last me awhile for space marines I'm gonna get nuln oil and a red silver and blood for the blood god cause I'm new
I know this is an old video but I gotta say thanks showcasing how to go around painting minis, one question I have is alot of tutorials regarding the stormcast eternals is no one covers the ones without helmets, do you know what kind of paint to use on their heads because the only one I have seen so far is cadian flesh something and that doesnt come in the starter set
Glad you found it helpful 😄 If you have just the 6 paints from this kit, I think you're going to have a very difficult time trying to paint any type of natural human skin tone. This is because there are no reds or even warm tones in this and that's pretty essential for painting skin tones. You might be able to pull off an other worldly tone using white with a bit of blue, but that could go sideways pretty quick. If you have access to the paints from the Orruk starter set, that includes a light brown and a red. So combined with the white from this set, you probably could start mixing to get something that would be a usable skin tone. But in general skin tones are one of those paints that you end up with a lot of different variations of because the human eye is really good for picking out issues with skin tone. So you just end up with a lot of them to make up a good looking skin (I normally build my storm cast with helmets on to avoid painting faces 😅). The classic tanned caucasian skin tone recipe using Citadel paints is Base in Bugman's Glow, Wash with Reikland Fleshtone, Layer with Cadian Fleshtone, Highlight with Kislev Flesh. If you want lighter, start with Cadian as your base, if want darker start with something like Knight Questor, or even darker, and adjust your layer and highlight appropriately.
Thanks for the video, I wanted to see what was the magazine about, I just started with a Necrons Warriors+Paint set and even though I haven't finished painting the three Necrons I'm already thinking on the next set, so I think it will be the Starter Elite, I like the Lore, I love the figures and painting them, but I'm not yet into the game, but that Elite set comes with a lot of stuff/figures so I think it is absolutely worthy
Good tutorial, really helped with my paint scheme. I'll also add that something that helps me with necrons is gluing the gun arms together, the head to the chest, and leaving the rest unattached. These skelly bois have some hard to reach areas and it definitely helps doing it that way
I agree that painting in subassemblies is generally the way to go. It is has been a while since I made this video, but I suspect I went with fully assembling in it either a) to make the steps simpler to follow for a new painter, or b) what little instructions were provided with the kit did full assembly.
This video is a masterpiece, thank you! I have a question, if I can: the "Death Guard Green" spray paint can be used as a primer? (or, are primer colours different from other spray colours?) Thank you!
I legitmately don't know for sure. GW doesn't explicitly say they are a primers, but does list undercoating as one of their uses, which sounds like they are supposed to be used for priming. And GW doesn't really have any other products that are a true primer. I think a lot of people are using them for priming, but I generally don't use rattle cans, so I cannot say for sure. I hesistate from saying yes, because in my understanding of acrylic paints, primers are chemically different from standard acrylics. Specifically normal acrylics bond with other acrylics better than other plastics (like the polystyrene of the model), so will have a tendency to chip and flake off of the model if directly applied to it. A primer is normally a mix of acrylic and another chemical/paint that binds to the surface of the model well, but acrylic paint also binds to it well. Think of it as kinda a glue between the paint and the model. Because GW isn't explicitly saying that their sprays are primers, I am unsure if that means a) they are just straight acrylic and are just an easier method for base coating, or b) they are actually primer, but they don't want to distringuish between base paints and primers for some reason. tl;dr I am not sure, and I don't want you to be led astray by me saying that yup they are a primer and then have models that wear easily. I think people do use them as primer, but I don't know how well that actually works.
Found this video looking for inspiration for kitbash challenge me and a friend doing and I wanted my guy sorta striding over lava and this helped a lot thanks!!
the two legs connecting together, theres a connection key underneath. Also, AoS: Dominion box set is still available and has better value than the starter sets.
White primer should work fine. You don't get 'free' shading from it, so the overall look might be a touch brighter than if you use a black. And missed areas in the recesses will be more obvious, since they will be white.
Probably. I haven't used it personally, but I am not aware of any specific complaints about it. I tend to use Reaper or Vallejo primers, but that is mostly what is easiest for me to get.
Thanks for the tips. Took 3-4 tries. You really have to apply a lot and very thick so that the crust looks like yours. It feels excessive how thick you have to apply. Underestimated how much. Now it looks great. Thanks for your video.
These specific models I ended up selling like 6 months after doing this video, since the army I was planning on building got shelved for other projects 😅 So cannot comment on their specific durability. Other models, like Space Marines, I have used the same style and number of magnets, and have been happy with them. If you try to pick up the model by magnetized piece they might come loose, but from general handling and moving they normally stay secure. Might get turned/need to be adjusted if they get bumped, but any one magnetic point set will be prone to turning.
The citadel paint pot choice is so stupid for such an "expensive" paint. I never buy for that exact reason, they want you to mess up and waste their product so you're forced to buy more. Shady business practice.
