Hi my name is Taylor and I'm Tech1968. I am a Chrysler dealer technician as well as a college automotive instructor in southern California. I created the channel during the COVID-19 lock down to give my students some real world labs while they were stuck at home. The videos are meant to be an alternative to lab activities in the college automotive courses that I teach so that the students could complete their course work. With that said the videos I have put up are rough, very rough. I have never filmed or edited any type of video before so I am learning slowly as I go. I hope you find the videos helpful and thank you for taking the time to watch them.
Great video. I am looking for a way to tell if my gasoline is bad. I am trying to look for that table you referenced online. Would you be able to point me in the right direction?
@@JayfromdaLow Yes, that could cause it to slip. Check the level and the condition of the fluid. If the fluid smells burnt there may be damage to the clutch packs. Good luck.
@@Tech_1968 yea I thought my transmission was overfilled at first when it started doing a lil uprev changing from second gear, I had a tiny transmission leak from a rusted line and was adding transmission fluid overtime until my mechanic had time, I had let some out and it got worse when I drove after to the point 4th gear didn’t work at all but just rev and when I parked it, it wouldn’t move or anything in any of the gears, I walked to the store to get a bottle transmission fluid and it started driving regular since but I still clean the connectors on the solenoids for the gears because it was gunky and dirty to
Where is your shop? My 07 dodge ram 2500 4x4 5.7 has been suffering the same issue since I bought her 6 years ago. I'm going through front tires every 4-6 months. She has a 6"pro comp t kit. There's not one shop in NYS that knows how to fix my truck.
Thank you for the nice detailed video. I need to do this on our 2008 jeep liberty. Question: What do you call the tool you used to press on the out bearing onto the pinion ring (14.10 in the video time line). Thanks
Thank you for watching and for the great comments. The tool is called a flange installer. It is part #C-3718 from Miller Special Tools. Hope that helps.
@@fogstain Yes, but it is tight when used on the back cylinder head (right). Loosing the engine and transmission mounts just a little helps with clearance.
Hi Great video! in my case the Neutral safety switch is the issue. Is necessary to open the pan to verify the neutral safety switch or can I just remove and put the new one neutral switch? Thanks for the info!!
@@Tech_1968 That's for D44 though, the 8.25 is 10-20, is it still safe to run that tight? asking because i'm in the middle of building a rear with locker and 4.57's and can't quite get it right.
@@mattmcclelland6423 Thank you watching. The tool is from Miller Special Tools #9360. There are some generic versions as well. The one from AutoZone is from OEM Tools #37308. Hope that helps.
Dude... You tend to TALK too much about what you're going to do and why FIVE and SIX steps ahead of where you're at in your video! Just focus on where you're at - at that moment in the video... All that babbling about future shit doesn't mean anything to the viewer, if they're not actually seeing it being done in the moment! You're welcome...
@@sugargoldy I have also seen the pressure switch above the neutral safety switch leak as well. It leaks onto the neutral safety switch. It is the connector pointed straight up.
@@irnfocus It could be the same concern. In some cases the noise can come and go. You could have valvetrain issues as well. It would be best to get it diagnosed by a trusted mechanic in your area. To give you an idea of coat though for a broken flex plate, parts is $100-200 dollars with labor being around $1000-1600. Labor will depend on if your truck is 4x4 and what type of shop you take it too. Hope this helps and good luck
@@EricHildebrand-l2m What turning torque also known as angle torque is turning the fastener to 180 degrees after the initial torque of 27ftlbs. It's a way to keep the fastener under tension. It's also known as torque to yield
I subscribed a while back and get notifications. I’ve been teaching myself small engine work for three years. Of course much of the basics of automotive carry over to OPE.
Thx for this video, Taylor. This is the best one I’ve seen on the Time Sert so far. Makes me much more inclined to use these as opposed to HeliCoil, which seems to have a tendency to back out sometimes. What’s the incidence of backing out for these? I’m very curious about how the insert can be stretched out to lock into place. Are these inserts created from a slightly softer steel than one might expect? Do they crack at all due to the forced expansion? What is their overall failure rate in your experience?
@@Rein_Ciarfella Thank you for watching and commenting. If red thread lock is used they stay in place. The only time I have seen them come out is if they are installed crooked. Haven't seen them crack either. Hope that helps
Hey bro great vid! Hoping you can help me out with something, so I pretty much got the same lift on my truck, went to get an alignment, originally caster was 4.7 left side so in the red, and right side was 4.2 in the green. When they finished the alignment left side caster was 4.4 red and 4.6 red. They said that the red dont matter that it's just a number and that what matters is the distance between the 2 numbers that if I wanted it back in the green I need to go back stock ... is that true ? Or do I need to back and have them try to put the caster back on green ?
@@victorortega2718 Thank you for the compliment. The alignment shop isn't wrong. The color coding on the machine is for quick reference. Aligning the camber and caster with eccentric bolts can be a give and take based on a lot of factors. The primary goal is to get the total caster straight on these trucks. Caster for an individual wheel will not wear the tire out but cross caster, the average of both side, will cause the truck to pull one side or the other. If the lift is newly installed I would drive it for 1000 miles to let everything settle, then get it aligned again. Hopefully then the truck can be adjusted into spec. Hope that helps and good luck.
@Tech_1968 thats exactly what is doing it pulls me left or right dang ... ok sounds good I'll drive it some more and take it to get looked at again thanks alot 👍
On this particular transmission it's highly probable that what you're experiencing is hesitation, not slipping. Most common cause? Dirty shift solenoids. The screens get clogged up, and sometimes you can get it to work by taking off the shift solenoids and cleaning the screens of debris. Other times you will need to replace the shift solenoids altogether. There are easy diagnostic procedures in the service manual for testing the shift solenoids.
Not really, the one for overhead cam engines might work. They are around $40. But the head needs to be off and you may need to grind down on the adapter for the valve spring.
Hello I’m hoping to contact someone in the USA. My name is Steve and I live in the UK. Wondering if it might be possible to ask for your help. I currently have a lovely 1999 . Honda Accord 3ltr Coupe which has been my pride and joy for the last 15 years. Unfortunately Honda only exported about 1,500 vehicles to the UK. One of the problems I have is the parts for this car are very hard to come by in the UK. I now have a problem with the automatic transmission. I am finding it difficult to find someone over here who can carry out a recondition. Everyone is saying that the parts arnt available. So I thought I would try and track down the parts myself. What I am after is some kind of reconditioning kit for this vehicle. Was wondering if there was any way you could possibly let me know of a parts supplier for this car in the USA? It was the USA where this car was manufactured not in Japan. I know this is completely a shot in the dark but am hoping someone somewhere may be able to put me in the right direction. Would really appreciate it if you could get back to with any information please. All the best …. Steve
It's the updated replacement from the dealership. Any Ram dealership can get it for you. Depending on your trucks info it's part # 68338342AD or 68338343AC. But don't take my word for it double check with your VIN at the dealership
So you are right. An open 8 1/4 has only 10 bolts. However as I explained in the beginning of the video this is a 8 1/4 that has a factory electric locker. The cover is a different shape than an open version. All exact diff designation from Jeep is C213RE. All the specifications are the same for the open version and the electric locking version.
@@Tech_1968 Thanks for the response. It was a good vid, my mind's eyes saw it first. I was taking a break from putting my '01 Dakota 8.25 together. I could've worded it a little better, I regret that. After doing a simple 8.25, I envy you the knowledge.
@@djinhelo Thank you, I really should fix the video title. I made it during the pandemic form my students so we could do remote lab for class and went a little quick with things.
Straight Axle Dodge, O.E.M. suspension. I adjust right toe, then when I adjust left, throws right. 1.8 degrees off. Back and forth for hours. Using Snap On Hofmann alignment system. Needless to say... it's trying to turn me into an atheists.
Is it really? And broken trans mounts will cause slipping? I got an 02 accord v6 and the front motor mount was gone, and I ended up getting a good deal on a pack that came with all engine and trans mounts, but I only replaced the front one that was visibly gone. But anyways, my car is slipping like this one as well. None of the other mounts are 'broken',, but they're all original still.
Great video. I just installed the Fox 2.5 Elite on my '19 1500 DT and the Icon upper control arms which correct the caster. After installation knowing that none of the tie rods or eccentrics were messed with, the truck was driving dead straight. Took it in for an alignment check and they messed it up, pulling to the left and the steering wheel pointing 8-2 orientation, rather than 9-3, if you wish. Isn't it mandatory to lock the steering wheel position inside the cabin before you turn the tie rods? Thanks in advance
Great video! I'm surprised it hasn't garnered more likes. You seem to really know what you're doing and what you're talking about. I was wondering if you could answer a question for me. I bought a "deal" drag link from a Mopar dealer on eBay. Because they didn't protect the rod ends very well, it looks like they got somewhat damaged in shipment. It's possible the damage is only cosmetic. I thought at first the orange colored rings on the cone end of the rod end boot were damaged because they both look like they're bent over. But looking at the new drag link end you show in your video, it looks like it's bent also. Is it just crimped over to keep it attached to the boot? Also, one of the orange rings -- what looks like rubber -- is actually split where it's bent. In your opinion, is that likely to affect the performance of the ball joint? I would send you pictures if I could.
Is there a need to add longer front end links after this lift is installed? I noticed a lot of after market companies offering longer end links for leveled trucks ...
This kit isn't that tall to need them, but it would be a good idea more for quality improvements. The stock links aren't that strong and wear out kinda quick.
So transmission slipping? Can it be fixed? Or do you have to replace the transmission I have a Honda accord year 2000 looks very similar to yours. Also what might the cost range around?
The transmission will be getting rebuilt. Honda for a while was replacing some Accord transmissions under a extended recall/warranty. The rebuild will be around 2k parts depending.
