This is a great video and deserve much more attention. I have a different car, but even so this video contained a wealth of information. From the way the synchronizers sit to the issues that can arise for various shifting problems, to the tools necessarily to properly take apart a transmission. Thanks for the detailed explanations and inside look!
I've got a 2005 that I pulled the nsg370 out with 180k miles and swapped in a nv3550 that a shop rebuilt. The 5 speed has begun to fail with 20k miles and I've all but decided to build the 6 speed (that I miss) myself. Your video helped give me more of an idea of what I'm getting into. I appreciate the technical explanations and reasons for what you did!
Very useful information. I think a have a similar problem with the 4th gear where it’s engages only after applying a lot of force on the lever and with grinding noise. Thank you for the video.
The anaerobic sealer is used because it doesn't act as a shim, allowing the case halves to seat completely and all the axial mating surfaces to be within the correct tolerances.
Thanks for the video! I was very confused on how to properly remove the synchronizer hub. I took the detents and slider off before removing the hub, and now I see that it needs to be removed as one singular piece from your demonstration. You're the man. Any advice on removing a roller/spring pin?
Thank you for the compliment, I'm glad the video helped. To remove roll/spring pins I have used two methods. The first is a roll pin punch, but that won't work in all applications. The second is as long as the pin isn't too hard is I find a machine screw that is slightly larger than the i.d of the pin. The machine screw needs to be long enough to thread into the pin and go through the length of a socket. I then use a #1 or starting tap the correct size to the machine screw to cut threads inside the pin. I then use a socket that is larger than the o.d of the pins bore and place it with the drive end out. Thread the machine screw through the socket into the newly cut threads. If the pin isn't too tight it will get pulled out when you tighten the machine screw against the socket. This method requires a lot of patience and luck. I hope that helps.
This is a great video! Learned a lot. Do you or did you check for any lateral play on the input shaft bearing? Is any play allowed or any limits? I’m being told that my input shaft bearing is bad. I inspected it myself and in my opinion it has about .20-.30 thousands lateral play. I’ve also heard this isn’t a concern because it’s locked in by the pilot bearing so it can’t move. What advice would you suggest? Also there’s zero fore-aft play with smooth rotation no slop gear mesh seems great.
The input will have play up and down, around the 0.020"ish. The factory manual doesn't have a spec for input shaft play other than there needs to be some. The input shaft could be bad for a couple of reasons. The first could be worn dog teeth for 5th gear. 5th is direct drive (1:1) so if there is an issue with 5th gear synchro it could damage the input shaft. The other reason is damage on the pocket bearing outer race due to excessive thrust load. The third can be damaged clutch disc splines. Other than that the input shaft could have external damage as well. Hope that helps and good luck
@@Tech_1968 it’s a long story but bottom line my transmission has no shirting issues whatsoever. I took the Jeep in to the shop originally to have the clutch pressure please throw out bearing replaced since my Jeep has 120k with the original parts still installed. I got it back with a loud whine. Took it back now I’m told I need to replace my transmission due to the input shaft having lateral play. Also turns out that the shifter wasn’t installed correctly and leaked fluid out . My guess is that there’s nothing wrong with transmission other than low on fluid that leaked out. Thanks for the feedback. You’re awesome for taking time to answer. Thanks, Brother!
Amazing video! All your work looks so clean! I just bought a FIAT Mobi and it rattles audibly in 5th gear, but only when RMP is low (2~3K) and load is high (like going uphill). I was told by a Fiat mechanic that this is because I was forcing the car at low RPM and the transaxle isn't designed for that, which it doesn't feels right (in all other cars I've had the engine will stall before the transmission/transaxle complains, and that only happens if the revs go below 1K), but since the rattling does dissapear as soon as revs are higher, I have to agree with the mechanic, since I can't either think of any component that could be damaged and only show at low revs/high load. Do you think we could be missing something? Also, working at MOPAR, do you know what transmission number/model goes into the 2020 FIAT Mobi?
Not sure on what model trans the Mobi has. Your issue might be due to excessive shafts or gear clearance. I would lean towards a roller bearing with to much clearance. It shouldn't hurt the transmission to run the transmission in 5th gear at low RPM.
Great video - very informative, thanks for posting. I have a 2015 JKUR with the NSG transmission and I have difficulty coming out of 1st gear. In your experience, would that be a worn 1st synchro or maybe something wrong with the dog teeth on any of the 1st components? All other gears shift smooth as butter. Thanks in advance.
Yeah it could be a 1st gear synchro or speed gear dog teeth issue. The other component to look at would be the shift fork assembly. As you saw the plastic bushing breaks easily, this can cause the forks them selves to bend. The only other thing I would look for is a worn clutch disc but, that usually makes it difficult to get into/out of all gears. Good luck hope that helps.
@@Tech_1968 Cool thanks, I thought a 1 synchro/dog teeth might be some of the potential issues, but I wanted to try a few other things. I recently changed to Royal Purple Synchromax in it, and even though I filled it to around it's capacity of 1.6Q, I feel like even that might be overfilling it, so I'm going to switch to the genuine Mopar NSG fluid and maybe try running only 1 quart, since 1 quart was roughly all that came out from the factory when I originally changed the fluid. I've heard that these gearboxes can be a bit sensitive to overfilling. I'm wondering if 1.6Q is too much and it's not allowing the fluid to work properly, causing this issue.
@@Tech_1968 Problem solved! Shift quality restored - smooth as butter into and out of all 6 gears instantly just like that. I drained my transmission of the 1.5Q of Royal Purple Synchromax that I put in there and I refilled with ONLY 1 quart of the genuine Mopar NSG370 fluid (part #04874464AC for anyone other owners reading this) even though the fluid capacity of the NSG is around 1.6Q. Turns out that my transmission really does NOT like Royal Purple Synchromax or Pennzoil Synchromesh or any other fluid - only the genuine Mopar fluid and only 1 quart is all I needed to run this transmission fine. 1st gear is still a big time granny gear so as long as I let the RPMs drop under 2k, it allows me to shift out of 1st smoothly. So for anyone with NSG issues, this is something you can try if you are having weird shifting or are using a non-Mopar fluid.
I have stripped the main shaft without a problem, then taken the circlip or snapring off the countershaft however I don’t see any splines and don’t want to put too much puller pressure on the 5th constant mesh gear if something else has to be done. Is there anything else to remove first? Thanks
The synchro hubs get really tight on vehicles with a lot of miles on them. If you already have the main and counter shift separated and the snap ring removed it should pull off. Letting it sit over night with PB blaster might help. Good luck.
I have a 1992 ranger that i recently bought for a fairly low price. When i am driving it i noticed that 2nd gear was hard to get into gear when shifting from 1st to 2nd. when i shift i have to step on the clutch and wait a few seconds before the gear actually engages. once its in gear it runs very well. i just recently removed the transmission. and realized it was leaking from the input shaft seal and was low on fluid. my question is do you think it can be a bad Synchro or just reseal and fill with oil. by the way there was no gear grinding.
Low fluid can cause a rough engagement in gear but it would be in more than one gear typically. A worn clutch or mis-adjusted clutch could do that as well but again typically in more than one gear. I would lean more towards a synchro especially if your new to owning the truck. I have also seen where the incorrect fluid type causes difficult engagement. Refer to what the factory service information calls for. If you just bought the truck it would probably be a good idea to go through all the fluids, you don't know for sure what the last owner used/maintained.
Low fluid can cause a rough engagement in gear but it would be in more than one gear typically. A worn clutch or mis-adjusted clutch could do that as well but again typically in more than one gear. I would lean more towards a synchro especially if your new to owning the truck. I have also seen where the incorrect fluid type causes difficult engagement. Refer to what the factory service information calls for. If you just bought the truck it would probably be a good idea to go through all the fluids, you don't know for sure what the last owner used/maintained.
How about some information on an older Mercedes Gegrag 4 speed transmission. I have a 1981 Mercedes 240d and may need to do some internal work on it as the shifts at times are not the smoothest and this has been happening for the last few months.
I'm not familiar with this particular transmission but a rough shift can be either the clutch starting to get a little thin or the synchro for that particular gear wearing down. Are you having rough engagement in only one gear or a couple?
What's some like that cost? Is a transmission replacement cheaper? I have a 2000 Ford, and 2nd gear grinds everytime going into 2nd. 4sp overdrive manual backing the 4.6L 281 horse power engine .
It really depends on the parts price for the transmission and the labor of the shop. The parts for the overhaul in the video were around $300 total. A new transmission would have been a couple thousand. A used transmission is much cheaper but you would be rolling the dice on if it's okay.
If your transmission won't engage 3rd gear it could be damaged synchro blocker rings or the synchro sliding hub. I have also seen on these transmissions the linkage get stuck due to a damaged plastic bushing in the center of the linkage. If you can get it into 3rd gear but it does not transfer any torque the speed gear could have broken dog teeth. It would be a good idea to first drain the transmissions fluid to look for metal. The drain plug has a magnet, if it is covered with metal then you have a gear issue. If the fluid has brass floating in it then you have a synchro issue. If there is nothing in the fluid a gear linkage issue. Good luck.
For the press I used a miller #1126. The 3 jaw is in a kit from harbor freight it's the 150mm or 6". The case puller is miller 9636 and the stand is 9633. Hope that helps.
The parts are not to expensive. It was around $300 in parts for this particular transmission. That is with factory part's, I'm sure there are cheaper aftermarket components out there. It just takes time to get it out and back installed again. Hope that answers your question.
This particular repair was done under factory warranty. It cost around $2200 with parts and labor. A transmission shop out here ( southern california) would probably charge between 2-3K.
@@tigresfc9441you could try to find a replacement transmission but that’ll probably be just as much unfortunately so yeah id just avoid that all together
Once the case is split the process is the same. The Lancer transmission uses a different jig and support plate to separate the main/output shafts from the case. After that though it's similar.
The tool is a Mopar Factory tool (#9633) you can find it at a couple of vendors. Here is a vendor that has it in stock www.tillmantools.com/Mopar-Tools-9633-Transmission-Fixture-p/mst9633.htm Hope that helps and thanks for watching the video.
@@Tech_1968 Thank you!, Just found that tool name on eBay. Could not find it under any other name calling it a jig or mount. Had to use Mopar tool along with model number 9633 fixture.
Most of the cost is labor. There is 8 hours of labor in just removing and installing the transmission. The rebuild is roughly 2-3 hours depending on cleaning of the parts. That job was under warranty and it paided a total of $1500. The parts are the cheap part of the job.
