good morning! thanks for sharing your thoughts on setting up a boat shop.. i thought that I recognized the boat that you have in the video.. Harry is a legend - a number of years ago some friends and I got together and built 3 boats to his Daisy design. I love watching his videos. Nice work on the canoe! i will enjoy watching your other videos :) jt
Great video , for a smaller boat doing it by hand or even an electric plane goes very well , some use a jig and router and it amazes me how they must enjoy the sound of a router enough to do that 🙂
I only just started woodworking after buying my first wooden boat. I needed some 85x75mm length of oak for a cockpit repair. I went to the woods, found a dead standing oak, cut it down, cut a big section of log out of it. Took it home, flattened it with a draw knife, cut it to size with a saw and hand planed it flat and square. A lot of work but very satisfying!
Excellent! It gave me some good ideas on how to scarf the planks that will make the siderail, or whatever it is called...that vertical positioned plank at the bottom of the guardrail on my Colin Archer. Thanks!
I enjoyed your cross planing with a scrub plane to remove the initial wood. You will throw up, but I use a grinder with a 36 grit disc made from the fossilized particle remains of the elbow callouses on a stegosaurus. It goes zoom and I'm 90% done. When the dust clears, everything has a fresh pine scent. Later on when I dig through the dust to find my pencil, I just grab another one from the large pencil barrel had to buy.
Flat sawn lumber was often used in lapstrake planking rather than quarter sawn or rift sawn as it was more split resistant especially at the garboard and next one. But your rift sawn sure looks nicer and is more dimensionally stable. I would prefer it for the sides in boats with more strakes. Also the poured boiling water method which I have done (not my favorite) works much faster and you also get more time to do the fitting. But you can get burned easily. I steam in a plastic bag sealed with aluminum HVAC tape. Gains are cut different ways but I cut my gains the same way as you.
I have watched this video many times. It inspired me to buy a small wooden boat designed by Paul Gartside. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3XNgZrok3fQ.html
That's a great idea. A jumpstick with one pointy side and a sightline along its top. The drilling side is offset by the drill radius. Something along those lines?
Exactly what I was thinking. You could even make the offset adjustable with a sliding wedge but I find if I can get a 3mm pilt hole through, I can chase it with an auger.@@SmallBoatSchool
wow awesome video ,I live in north east Ontario Canada I ve been milling some wood from my land ,many pine, white cedar ,red oak and Tamarack which is similar to Larch .It would interesting to make a cedar strip canoe (a common canoe round here)but make it from tamarack .thanks for the ideas and thoughts
I sailed the western Swedish coast on a 14 foot boat, when I was 19. After 5 weeks, I met a couple from Bremen on their 38 foot Najad... Their only fear was, if there are any rocks `hiding` under water... In the evening at the harbour I told them my adventures from those 5 weeks, meeting Swedish people, kind, helpful, interested... Instead, the couple of Bremen only met harbour-masters on their 5-week-trip, kicking with their feet to the bow in the morning, taking the cash for another day in harbour... that was all. My conclusion since that time: the lower your planks are, the more you get involved into the area, you entered ! By the way: one of the kindest meetings I had with a couple from Denmark, who invited me for a wonderful dinner on their boat. Next morning they took a picture from my boat and me... and sent it to me later. Well.., what to say under tears: it is right in front of me on the wall ...since 40 years now... Love to Denmark, Sir. Love to the north... we got damned fine neighbours `up there`:) Thank you all !
Plywood is very dimensionally stable because it's made up of several thin layers of wood that are at 90 degrees to one another. Shrinkage and swelling is generally negligible. So sheating it with fiberglass and epoxy is not a problem - it actually makes it a lot more rugged and keeps water from getting to the wood. The biggest downside to it, in my opinion, is that it's messy and toxic to work with. So when I build boats I try to use these kinds of materials only sparingly and only where they add significantly to the boat in terms of longevity, performance or wood consumption. For example, if I can seal a loose knot with epoxy, I do it. Because otherwise I would have to discard the plank, which would be wasteful. Or if I can seal a plank seam with a flexible caulk which keeps water from getting into the boat when it has dried up over a long winter, I tend to do it too. Sealing seams with a compound that keeps water from getting in and causing rot is a strong contender, too, because it can add significantly to the lifespan (and thereby long-term sustainability) of the boat. But again: I try to keep it reasonable. For me, boatbuilding should mostly be a fun woodworking job. Not something I do wearing a respirator and a hazmat suit. Cheers, Mikkel
I love it, too. It's really well thought through - down to the oar leathers that protect the oars both when the boat is rowed and when it's being used in wheelbarrow mode.
@@kurthougaard557 Det kan jeg godt forstå er ærgerligt. Men som jeg har skrevet til dig (en del gange efterhånden) bliver jeg nødt til i første omgang at lave kurset på et sprog som flere mennesker forstår.
@@kurthougaard557 Måske - men ikke lige i første omgang. Det er et stort arbejde at oversætte videomaterialet. Men jeg vil sagtens kunne give hjælp og vejledning på dansk. Det lyder som nogle gode projekter, du har lavet. :-)
Hej Kurt, det kan jeg godt forstå. Men det er et meget stort arbejde at oversætte. Og dansk er så lille et sprogområde at det desværre ikke er førsteprioriteten. Men hvis du gerne vil bygge en båd, kan vi måske finde en løsning alligevel, hvor jeg kan hjælpe dig - på dansk? Ring eller skriv. til mig, så kan vi tale om det. Vh Mikkel
Hi, sorry for the late reply. An epoxy coat is extremely hard and inflexible, which makes it great for plywood and other materials that don't expand and contract with changes in humidity. For natural wood, generally traditional finishes are recommended, because they allow for some shinkage and swelling. Traditional finishes are not quite as durable, though, but I find they are easier to apply and to maintain. Both options could probably work well with this boat, so I guess it's a matter of personal preference. :-)
