This channel is for the DIY car enthusiast out there. We do things cheap to get the job done. It's all about saving that money, and enjoying life. Most everything we do here is a learning curve, and we look forward to the shenanigans we find ourselves in.
Just bought a 1999 LX470 with 147k miles for $1,000. Needed a battery and could use new tires, bc the others are older. Everything works as it should. A wealthy family kept it since new and rarely used it.
Anyone who says that they’ve had a difficult time hasn’t worked on a Landrover discovery 4 (lr4 in the us). However there is no nicer luxury 4wd that can go everywhere
Another couple reasons it may not be as "loud" as before 1) newer speakers like Skar Audio have much lower sensitivities (in simple terms sensitivity is a measurement of decibel output; taking the reading 1m away with the speaker @ 1 watt) so with stock amplifier power it may not be giving the speaker as much power as it is rated for. 2) the enclosure fasteners might not be adequate for the higher weight of the speaker over time it may crack the edge so i'd be weary of that, as well as, the enclosure may be not sized appropriately, not much you can do besides a custom box but those are pricey. For bass on a budget I think you did a fantastic job.
Great video man, def reached a bass head's RU-vid recommended. Ohms are a measure of impedance, or impedance to electrical current flow. A larger Ohm rating equals a greater load impedance. A higher impedance load will result in less amplifier output for that impedance, for example an amplifier will output more power at 2 ohms than at 4 ohms. The wiring you did is called "Series" and wiring + to + and - to - would be a "Parallel" wiring in your case being 2 ohms but you wired to 8 which is correct for your vehicles amp. Your factory "sub" more like a midrange it seems disconnected from the surround of the woofer. Cheap speakers can do this from playing over the years but that Skar EVL 6.5 should do and sound a TON better. Great video!
Great video! Check out the diagram for your cars fuse box and see if there is a fuse that is linked specifically to the windshield wiper sensor. Not totally sure if that’s something that would work but it’s a good place to start!
I have both. Both are excellent . For long driving distance 100 series. But the 80 series has better capabilities off road, and the cool factor and 30 years from now will be unavailable and unattainable, just like the 40 series now. But awesome trucks nevertheless.
Clean the steering wheel buttons with a bit of acetone / nail polish remover. That sticky stuff on the buttons looks and feels awful, and after cleaning they are just smooth and feel like new.
Congrats on your beautiful LX470! Awesome find! Very clean too! I’m also in the market for one, and would like to do the exact same thing! If you don’t mind me asking, what’s the mileage and how much did you have to pay? Prices on these are all over the place. Thanks, subbed and will be following your build.
Love to hear it! Thank you. This ended up being kind of pricey at 19k. It was definitely at the top of my budget, but I wanted ZERO rust. When I bought it, it had 188k miles. If I were to do this again, I’d maybe shop around a little more than I did. I’m happy with this one, but there have actually been a few (according to pictures) since I bought this that look just as clean, have fewer miles, and costs less. Only by a grand or so, but you never know without going to look at one. Some looked great, but in person showed there were many defects. Even this one after owning for a while has some issues that need to be addressed. I’d definitely shop around, and find exactly what you’re looking for. Prices are hard because you’re right. They are all over.
1:10 is where he shows how to open the trunk. All the repair videos on this for this model fix it with the trunk open. Not much help if the trunk is closed and you don't know how to open the trunk to get started on the fix. Thank you for that tip!
How can I get this on my driver side ?? I have this happening with my left side so driver side. Replaced bulb didn’t work. A mechanic said he suspects a module . But after my last Mercedes I’m good on modules man…
I have replaced the hatch motor and the unlock mechanism. It works one time to open and then it locks. I have to disconnect the battery every time I want to open the back, because it only unlocks 1 time. Anyone have any suggestions? I have a 2006 4Runner Sport Limited
In MB world form it was mentioned the casing for SAM, we call it the fuse box here, had pressed onto the bundle of wires under it. Over time the physical pressure from the hard edge of the box/casing had damaged the wire. In MB world to they even posted the schematic of fuse box and wiring to the right head lights. With the fuse box cover opened you could trace the wires from the headlights as a bundle & going under the fuse box/casing. Today, without unscrewing the fuse box casing, I pressed down the bundle of wire with finger tips and saw what looks like a bit of damage wire. I shim the bundle of wires using a piece of soft rubber. I am not mechanically inclined. So I will get my workshop to have a look and also for them to learn and benefit their other clients.🤔🤔🤔 Regards
This has sorted my cls 320 2007 diesel right out in the UK..! Thank you so much for this…an electrician couldn’t figure this issue out so one has to assume it is the headlight module box issue
