I am an avid DIY weekend warrior. From working on cars, diesel engines, small engines, construction, and general home improvement projects. I rarely will hire someone when I can do the job myself. I am self taught and will continually educate myself by learning from experts. Being that my channel tends to be a slew of different things, I group my videos in "Playlists", so please check that out when browsing. i.e. If you only care about my home improvement construction videos, you can view my Playlist which strictly deals with "Finishing my Basement" for example. My Hobbies/Interests will also occasionally show up on my channel, which include: Weightlifting, Landscaping, Roller Coasters, Pool Care, Vegetable Garden, & more. Each have their own playlists. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the comment. Absolutely no issues. Just cut them to the proper size as to not jam them in there causing the stairs to widen out. If anything in my case, it is an improvement on the stairs themself. When it was a raw, unfinished staircase, it squeaked when going up and down on them. This extra bracing actually firmed everything up and no more squeaks.
@@DieselMike yeah the bottom corners of each of my steps stick out a little past the stringers. I’m going to have to run 2x4 along under them and then put the 2x4 connecting them
Theres one trick a learned.. If you want to run them softer with lower pressure use WD40 to mount them, it bonds the tire to the rim, almost like glue, specially old trash tires
do you know which LED chip this model's stoplight uses, since my LEDs are dead inside, but wokring on the rear lights as they should. I found the chip for f25 which is x3 2015, and i have f48, x1 2016, do you maybe know, is the chip the same for these two models?
I believe you have the QuickJack raising it backwards. According to the instructions, the label on the QuickJack itself should be facing the front of the car and not the rear (with the locking bars pointing outwards of course). They will work either way but I just thought I'd mention this.
Awesome video. I just acquired one like this that will go in my yard. You helped set my goal of July 4th. Thanks for the tutorial and pictures. I need to make up that metal sleeve/lightning rod.
This looks great! For your wall, did you fasten the top plate to the underside of the stair or just attach it on the sides and bottom? I’m looking to do something similar under my stairs but looking to make a linen closet so my wall is gonna be further up. Thanks!
Yes. I did exactly that. I built it like any other wall, where I measured the plumb height directly under the stair I wanted to fasten to. Then framed out the mini wall on the floor, making sure to use a PT piece for the bottom. And finally stood it in place, nailed the top to the the bottom of the stair, plumbed it precision by moving the bottom into place, and shot the bottom plate into the concrete with a Ramset.
How can i actually make these pro-style dumbbells from scratch? I mean, with stuff bought from the hardware store (screws, washers and bolts that is) - clearly i will get the proper plates!
I would have just used a circular saw. Just because in my early years it was all I had. I also remember using my hand saw. I probably needed a new blade for my 8 1/4 “ worm gear. I bought this saw used and it was used a lot before I got it. It was my only saw for almost my first 10 years as a carpenter. I did have a jig-saw. I bought a used radial-arm saw that I used to set on horses when needed on a job and did rip and cross cutting with it. Things are really easier as far as tools go. Even with all the batteries, two chop saws, small light table saw and every tool you could need on my truck I still resort to my electric 8 1/4” skill worm gear for some cuts.In 1970 when I bought it I remember thinking how lucky I was to have such a modern tool. I must be getting old.
Couple pointers from a pro. I will say you didn't do bad though! Better job than some "pros" around here 33 inches is low and would fail inspection in alot of states. 34-38" is code in the majority of states, but is sometimes measured from the riser, not the nosing. I personally measure from the nosing and run my rake rail at 36" Easy way to determine where to cut your post on rake rail, set your post where its going (notch included). Lay your level on the steps, mark the bottom of the level onto your post. Measure from the bottom of your post to the furthest point of your mark. (Say 7 inches). Now mark your post where you want the top of your rail. Pull your preferred rail height down from that mark (36" in my case). Mark there, then add that 7 inches on. Perfect everytime! I screw my rosettes to my handrail through the back, then drill a ½" hole in the rostte above the rail and fasten it to the wall, with glue. Plug that hole with a wood plug. Same on bottom I cut my rail on the angle, let it but the bottom of the newel post while its laying on the wall cap. Let it go long past the wall and mark it. Subtract the difference if your post is thicker on the bottom like yours is. Check the wall for plumb though, may need to adjust your cut longer or shorter. Lastly, use glue on everything! Subfloor adhesive is my favorite, and will give you a rock solid install, especially on newel posts. I also glue my wall caps, balusters in rail, rail to post, everything 😂
Great tip on that small hidden tail light, mine went out on a 2020 X1. I followed your video, popped out the assembly from the interior tailgate opening (only two clips for my model year), and there it was. Easy enough. Many thanks!
Good catch. I must have missed that during editing. Upon re-watching the video I think my "Swirls" wound up 1/2" lower than I anticipated. Let me explain: Actual distance from top of wall to bottom of handrail = 31" Add 1.5" to account for the amount of rod that will be hidden in the handrail. So 32.5" will be the length of rod. If there are no designs on the rod, it's simple at this point. But trying to center those swirls is a bit more involved and I kept saying one thing and writing another. Note at 27:56 I start taking measurements to figure out which was my longer side in order to determine which was the top. Notice I say 8 inches but for whatever reason I put text on screen of 8.5. And to make matters worse I do the subtraction wrong as you noted, but that is an irrelevant measurement anyway. What I should have said was 8.0 - 1.5 = 6.5. What does that 6.5" represent? It will be the visible part of the "upper" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the handrail to the top of the upper swirl..... At that point I would have realized my visible part of the "lower" portion of the rod (from the bottom of the lower swirl to the top of the slant wall) was only 6" and therefore I wasn't indeed going to be dead center. And in reality I now believe that is exactly what happened. I am going to measure tonight when I get home. Chances are all my rods are 1/2" too low, which luckily hasn't caught my eye yet! LOL So... 1. Sorry for the confusion, 2. Thank you so much for watching and pointing this out, 3. If you overlook my 1st grade math error, I hope the gist of the video was still helpful.
@@DieselMike thanks for the reply. And with the pattern being at a 40° angle it is not noticeable to anyone other than the installer even if not dead center. I have a flat landing so I want to try to get center and I was thinking the extra half-inch may have been if you were taking into account any play in the bottom hole but if I recall you pushed all the way to the top and then put the epoxy to hold it so you never utilized the extra drop in the bottom….Yes, very helpful. I have my layout and waiting for delivery. Thanks.
@@davidmarino9009 So, I measured and sure enough, they are low by about 3/4" (nothing that catches the eye). But you are right in that even though I shoved them "all the way up", the bottom part is still somewhat in the hole. My advice: Measure, measure and measure again. And then still cut a little long. If you can't get them in the bottom hole, you can always shave off a little more. And one last thing. I did not use epoxy. I'm sure you saw that method in other videos, but I'm the one who locked the bottom of the rod in the hole by wedging a small screw in the hole. Try my way first as it's not permanent. If you are 100% satisfied with the result, you can perma-hold it later on with epoxy and then back the screw out. Good luck. Feel free to post how you make out.
@@DieselMike got it. Thanks for the follow up. Yes, the screw to secure (instead of epoxy) is a great idea especially if styles change and you ever want to swap out. Last comment on a nuance that others may be getting tripped up on … I kept getting slightly different measurements on horizontal spacing (when dividing the total width by the balusters plus 1 vs total width of space less width of total balusters used divided by balusters plus 1 (for spaces in between). this is due to the first measurement being off the wall and not off the center of a baluster. So your movement up of 1/4-1/2 inch is necessary if you are using center measurements for your first and last space to be equal distance to the others. I know you did it to for other reasons, (and no one would notice 1/4 inch on the first or spread out over the others) but a slight movement on first baluster equal to half the distance of a baluster is needed for the math to work on the horizontal lay out. On to the next project…
I do appreciate the effort you put into this video. I also reapect you for doing the work yourself . It looks amazing. Im a 63 year old DIY person, and I work like you. Carefully and methodically.
Great video. The pro videos usually make everything look so easy with never a mistake or worry about a particular step. This is real world with real angst like the rest of us feel, and then it turns out great. Congratulations.
Thanks. I'm not a pro, just an avid DIY'r. The goal of my videos are exactly that. Showing real life situations of how I attempt to do get stuff done on my own.
Plug and play if you are just replacing the bulbs. But this was many years ago and I have since replaced the OEM housing with stand alone fog lamps which are brighter and much nicer looking that the OEM housing. You can probably spot the new lamps on one of my more recent videos.
@@DieselMike I did see the new ones. Would you happen to remember what brand and type you did? My truck is an XL and didn't come with the fog lights, so I'm looking for ideas on installation and good brands
@@jaredwatchman7333 The one great thing about Amazon is they save your purchase history FOREVER! Here they are. But look around as this was back in 2018 and the tech is always getting better. Good luck amzn.to/3UNw50X
I just finished my basement and at the stairwell point. Thank you for the video of this build from the start, I feel confident now. Your staircase looks great. I'm hoping to duplicate it down to the spindles, shadow box molding on the walls, to the carpet. It looks fantastic! Expecting lot's of trips into the garage. :)
I would have done something different with those electronic dampeners for my HVAC. Of the three I installed, the one for the theater room is buried behind drywall and stuck in the closed position now. Luckily the other two are still working and provide enough air flow. Other than that I am very happy with how everything came out.
