Greasing a 2008 F-250 wheel hub bearing using an ABS block-off adapter from Riff Raff Diesel. Link to product used in video: www.riffraffdiesel.com/front-...
No good. My passenger side hub crapped out after a few years. New hubs (OEM, mind you) went in summer of 2018 and I started noticing a rhythmic "wah, wah, wah" coming form the right side in Feb 2022. I just replaced it last weekend (Oct, 2022). I don't believe adding the grease caused the premature failure. I think these are just prone to fail. I went cheap this time and only replaced the pass side this time with an aftermarket from 1A Auto. We'll see how that holds up.
Haha. Thank you. And for the record, this is a worthless service as you can see in some of my previous responses to comment. Hub still failed eventually. But appreciate the watch!
You have successfully greased the attenuator for the wheel speed sensor. The attenuator requires no grease. As far as the Archoil in the knuckle fitting. What were you hoping to accomplish? That area is the cavity for the vacuum actuated ESOF. There are no moving parts within that cavity with the exception of the special pressed onto the axle bearing portion of the inner seal of the knuckle's inner seal which is installed with the OTC 6697 special tool. The outer portion of the cavity is sealed by an O-ring (usually yellow) installed in the groove allocated for it on the wheel bearing hub assembly. The stub axle passes through the cavity and rests on a replaceable sealed bearing that is C-clipped into the wheel bearing hub assembly. The vacuum reaches the hub assembly through 2 machined grooves in the stub axle. Nothing requiring Archoil lube. That's it! When installing the wheel bearing hub assembly it is a good practice to lube the O-ring prior to installation onto the wheel bearing hub assembly and also lube the outer edge of the knuckle cavity to facilitate installation into the knuckle cavity. It is also good practice so as not to pinch the O-ring, to tighten the 4 wheel bearing assembly nuts equally until it is torqued to 133 ft. lbs. torque as recommended in the Ford service manual.
for some reason the tapered roller bearings in these have a plastic cage (even the Timken U.S.A. units). If someone were to cross match a steel caged bearing , I think the hub life would be far better.
On my 02 F150 it came with Timken bearings with plastic cages which I thought was cheap, at 300,000+ miles I changed the rotors and installed some bearings with metal cages , the original bearings were in perfect condition. Then I read the reason for the plastic cages is less friction and wear, when I changed rotors again I went back to the Timken bearings with the plastic cages.
I noticed on my 17 f250 I have a humming noise that comes on for about a second then goes away for a second or two and it does that the whole way down the road. I lifted the truck up yesterday and the passenger side wheel feels good when turning but every few rotations I can hear a slight grinding noise. Unfortunately the motor craft hubs are back ordered so I had to get a master pro brand. Never had a hub bearing sound like this one it’s like it’s on a timer comes and goes at the same rate the entire way down the road. Just hummm…….hummm……….hummm
Where have you been!!!!!!?????whats the next remodeling project?????....I love the needle grease fitting, I refresh my balljoints and tie-rod ends with them works like a charm....but I don’t have to worry to much about that for a while ...I just splurged on a 2019 f150 😬
Hey I have a grand caravan and can't find anything about repacking the bearings, because it is a sealed unit, and the dealer wants $500 a piece for these. Can't afford that, vehicle isn't even worth this much for new hubs, and brake kits. The bearings are sealed inside the sealed hub, so grease is not going inside the bearings. Did it help you much?
Did this the other day but now when i turn full lock right my abs light advancetrac service warning comes on then goes out after wheels straight any ideas what it could be?? 2015 f250 6.2l
Check that the ABS line is properly routed and seated back onto the sensor. Insure that there are no kinks in the line when you turn the wheels that far. Aside from that, perhaps the grease just needs to be worked a bit into the hub, away from the sensor.
That won't do anything for the bearing the 08 don't use needle bearings they use a roller and it's sealed the grease won't get to the bearing that's a waste.
Your assuming that the sealed bearing is open on one side so I DON'T UNDERSTAND how grease this way will get into bearing and not just an open cavity inside? If you have evidence of one take apart I could possibly believe this works.
@@DieselMikethey are designed to fail, gone are the days of clean, lube, adjust bearings - it was a bit of a chore but way simpler and satisfying than the rusty hub change. The bearings are nowhere near as robust looking at the tapered roller bearings on the spindle design was, it is safe to say the mfrs saved lots of $$$ switching to this design
I hate to tell you this but you're really accomplishing nothing besides wasting Greece and maybe screwing up your sensor. those are sealed bearings and you're not going to get grease in there doing that the only way you can get grease into those bearings is to jam and needle through the seal and pump some grease in. sorry to be the bearer of bad news
Thanks for the comment, Chief. But if you scroll through some of the previous comments, this has long been covered and acknowledged by me. And Greece is an island country in Europe. Grease however is extremely cheap and I’m not too concerned about a few squirts of waste. Thanks for watching!
Well you must not have done any research. No this will not repair an assembly that has gone bad. But it will prolong the life of a good one. They are not sealed inside they are only sealed from outside contaminants
Had my 99 f350 since new. Today, I'll replace the passenger side. In 25 years I've probably replaced a half dozen. I'm going to try this. Hopefully I don't f**k up the ABS sensor.
You are correct. This method only adds grease to the outside splines of the bearing. I still believe it is good maintenance. That said, one of my new OEM hubs failed after 3-1/2 years (see response I just posted above to Soldiers Craft comment)
