Hello everyone, welcome to our Beta Routesetting channel!
We are a crew of route setters working and traveling all over the world creating boulders and videos. We don´t care wether competition or commercial setting, world cup, hard moves final, regional or fun cups - we do everything!
Enjoy our world cup reports, travel & setting videos & feel free to ask us whatever you want!
With regards to the ai mori speed, she rested a while just before the dyno, meaning she had to race through the rest of it to ensure she topped on time. Janja didnt rest before the dyno, just went straight through, so was pumped and had to intermittently rest throughout the top half of the route putting her in time trouble. Very entertaining for the viewer, however disappointing to see it decided on previous rounds. Janja has been critical of routesetting before when its not hard enough to separate the climbers so I'm sure she would have preferred it didnt happen like this. Interestingly Ai maybe wins if theres a harder move further up as she seemed to have more energy left for the top section
Sometimes I do. For lead… idk I think you felt that I wasn’t really into it unfortunately But for the Olympics I’ll be more organized. Thx for your feedback ☺️
I agree the separation wasn't good, but for me watching the finals live it was really exciting, first if Ai would do the dyno, then if Ai would top, then when Ai topped whether Janja would top as well, which became a race against the clock at the end. I was at the edge of my seat for those last two climbers.
Definitely among the worst separation of recent lead finals and I totally agree regarding the aesthetics of the route 😂 Regarding the different pace between Janja and Ai Mori: In the post comp interview Janja explained, that she took a super long break at the end because she didn't remember whether the hidden hold on the volume was good or bad and tried to calm herself down and prepare for whatever it would feel like. Here's some speculation for the difference in the last part. I'd expect, that for the Kilter section Ai Mori planned to go pretty fast because it seems to have been the steepest part of the route and must have looked fairly straightforward at inspection already. Plus she will have realized that she took a lot of time for the start. Janja on the other hand is probably a bit more comfortable on overhanging terrain but usually not quite as good as Ai Mori in finding weird rests/regaining some energy on the final crimps of the head wall. She also knew that Ai Mori had topped the route and with tons of time remaining after the jump it might have been a conscious decision to climb very controlled in order to avoid mistakes. Even more so if she was confident that she can top the route with some energy to spare - so she climbed in order to not fall instead of trying to get as much distance as possible.
this is so cool to see. loads of chinese competitors really have been shining in the world cups in the recent years! they are amazing to watch! just like the tour the france! :D
As someone who normally skips to the action for climbing, listening to you both speak about the trip was super entertaining. Combination of your humour, chemistry and insights work really well.
I have a broad question regarding setting. How does one get into setting? How do you learn? Could I go to my local gym and just offer to learn and set for them for free like one day a week? Cause if Im not looking to do this for many hours since I have already a full time job, it seems to me from their point of view that Im a poor investment in time. Whereas if I offer to do it for free, it seems more fair to everyone. What do you all think?
Routesetter here 👋 From my experience, routesetting is a niche job that's often quite gatekept-it's hard to break into the industry without knowing someone from the inside. I recommend getting to know the setters and building rapport with them. You can offer to help forerun or wash holds and eventually ask if you can set a boulder with them. Some gyms also offer setting apprenticeships, which can be a great way to get your foot in the door.
Bobas? answer is quite right I got to admit. It's s mixture of gatekeeping and not many ways how to get into it. talk to your local setting team, ask for hold stripping & washing or how to get onto the crew. Some people also offer one time only workshops. We do in Germany via beta route setting & frankenjura academy / climb holds. we talked briefly on our new podcast about it as well: open.spotify.com/episode/7gactTMnXu8Dn5LvDRqtuB?si=a20dd69157dc46c5
feels like it's already a million years ago... China Part 2 Ningbo - AGholds boulderfest: That was dope! Somehow I didn't record that much setting footage but in my opinion some cool insights from Kevin about China. Enjoy & don't miss out on the Tour de France, it's INTENSE! Niki
@@BetaRoutesetting yeah there's a lot going on, but I think you should watch the womens final for sure. You can skip all the talking in between, just the climbing from the 8 competitors is good enough but it ended up being really really tense and exciting, incredible final. Might just be the most exciting lead final I've seen so far.
Nice interview, great performance by Elias at the finals. It being his first (or one of his first?) worldcup final, it wouldn't have been surprising if he got outclassed by the other guys, but he certainly kept up, got pretty close on several boulders even though it was 'only' enough for fifth in the end.
Really interesting! Half way Elias mentioned how others did a boulder. That makes me wonder, did he rewatch the whole competition and see how others did? Must be weird to have no idea how the competition actually evolved after it's over. Then again, it's over so may not be that interesting anymore. Do you know if it is normal for the athletes to look back, or not so much?
They talk a lot afterwards and exchange experiences & betas with their coaching team. Don't know and I doubt that they look back on the whole competition - maybe at their attempts to analyze them but not the full stream. I'll ask some of them to be sure ;)
I’m a Medji fan, but he didn’t climb his best while Sam and Paul did a little more. I like combined but hope there will be speed, combined, bouldering, and lead at LA Olympics.
Ulrich is back??? Gut das du das hier ansprichst, sonst wüsste ich es nicht. Wir waren mal mit Deinem Vatter klettern, in Göttingen am Kollos (jetzt natürlich total Verboten:)) Alles Liebe an euch beide. Micha
I think the last move on m4 was really cool, really was a nice last move of the competition, very spectacular but not too hard. However I can see why it might be too easy considering how hard the rest of the round is. 4/32 tops is not ideal, I think like 10/32 would be better, altho as you say a hard round is better than an easy round and it's how hard to get it right. M1 final move and M2 2nd part could have been a little bit easier
Planning to open a gym in the future, so I have been studying route setting like crazy. Great job on this video. With the crazy costs of building a gym, especially those that are invested in the walls, I want to avoid chewing up the wall with endless amounts of screw holes. Does that make sense? With this in mind, I like the idea of your “working jug”, but why would you not simply use a bolt on hold and avoid the unnecessary screw damage. Serious inquiry- not a jab. Thanks.
The wear of the wall is part of the job your wall will get old and boring long before it's destroyed by set screws. Don't worry so much, because when you do your setting will suffer from it. It's pretty lame when routesetters are kept on their toes because management doesn't want screw holes. Setters should be responsible and conscious of what it is acceptable or not, make them think before doing anything as it should be, but don't police them too hard as their final product will suffer from it.
No you are totally right. Usually we use designated down climbing jugs but on the other hand a wall with the size of studio bloc lasts another ten years before any of the panels need to be replaced because of too many holes. But in general we use down climbers or a M10. Was just too lazy in the moment of the video tbh
I hope wall owners (some do) tell you it’s forbidden to put screws ons in. If you got questions about walls or wall designs let us know. A lot of mistakes can be avoided and money saved ☺️
As a routesetter I have to say, screwing in testing jugs with spax instead of M10 makes some gym owners re ally not happy. Also if you search positions for holds I would use M10 first and then for fine tuning if necessary use the spax. Like in this boulder both starting holds are very close to M10s and as far as I can see in the video they dont even tried them. But all in all a good tutorial :)
As always it depends on the gym. If it’s unnecessary screwing yes - like our testing hold, we should have used a normal axis downclimber with a M10 but we’re too lazy and too focused doing our video. The two side pulls maybe could have been installed with a M10 but we go by feeling and found optimal positions quickly with screw ons only. Usually we adopt to the gym we’re setting at and studio bloc is fine with using screw ons only if we want ☺️
When you moved the jug down 13:55 (to make the fly-by dyno with the right hand easier) could you have instead added a foot-chip on the left to be able to launch higher? Or would that have potentially broken the toe-hook start?
Potentially. But then you’d have to stomp your left foot higher out of the toehook with the right which makes it usually a very tensiony powerful stompy move out of the difficulty range. But would have worked as well
Looking at the first version at 7:00 I was wondering whether it's possible to put the hold somewhere in the middle between those two, and use it both as starting hold and as the toehook hold. So starting quite low with a double match and then exploding and catching it as a toehook.
The Orginal big starting handhold could have worked - problem was that the depth of it and the incline wasn’t as good as the big macro. The toehook would have not been as comfortable and secure - which we were looking for at this point. But in general if you can use one hold as start and the toehook? That’s champagne ☺️
