IFSC Worldcup Report 2024 - Innsbruck Lead Finals Women 

With regards to the ai mori speed, she rested a while just before the dyno, meaning she had to race through the rest of it to ensure she topped on time. Janja didnt rest before the dyno, just went straight through, so was pumped and had to intermittently rest throughout the top half of the route putting her in time trouble. Very entertaining for the viewer, however disappointing to see it decided on previous rounds. Janja has been critical of routesetting before when its not hard enough to separate the climbers so I'm sure she would have preferred it didnt happen like this. Interestingly Ai maybe wins if theres a harder move further up as she seemed to have more energy left for the top section

I agree the separation wasn't good, but for me watching the finals live it was really exciting, first if Ai would do the dyno, then if Ai would top, then when Ai topped whether Janja would top as well, which became a race against the clock at the end. I was at the edge of my seat for those last two climbers.

Definitely among the worst separation of recent lead finals and I totally agree regarding the aesthetics of the route 😂 Regarding the different pace between Janja and Ai Mori: In the post comp interview Janja explained, that she took a super long break at the end because she didn't remember whether the hidden hold on the volume was good or bad and tried to calm herself down and prepare for whatever it would feel like. Here's some speculation for the difference in the last part. I'd expect, that for the Kilter section Ai Mori planned to go pretty fast because it seems to have been the steepest part of the route and must have looked fairly straightforward at inspection already. Plus she will have realized that she took a lot of time for the start. Janja on the other hand is probably a bit more comfortable on overhanging terrain but usually not quite as good as Ai Mori in finding weird rests/regaining some energy on the final crimps of the head wall. She also knew that Ai Mori had topped the route and with tons of time remaining after the jump it might have been a conscious decision to climb very controlled in order to avoid mistakes. Even more so if she was confident that she can top the route with some energy to spare - so she climbed in order to not fall instead of trying to get as much distance as possible.

consider writing a script. it would make it easier to follow the video