Links in the description for halogen and LED replacements

@@Realpreshaanbthe LED one is not working for me…

@@markomarkovic5638 geni.us/rMO1yUE confirmed that link is working correctly

High chance that even if i mention where it is now, odds are we're not going to be here

Cool. I have a 120d e82. Would be refreshing having someone meticulous working on my car

@@andrerenejames8319 my journey here on RU-vid is to help people work on their cars and to document my journey... Its not to work on anyone's car... If i did, it would come with a large price tag

Does your car have iDrive?

@@Realpreshaanbappreciate the quick reply! Yes i have a 2008 E90 and it does have idrive

Then its correct... Because everything that i mentioned in the video can all be done through the iDrive system. Which is why you don't see it on your dashboard cluster

@@Realpreshaanbokay, that's good as i was scared i didn't have the option at all. Is there a hidden menu somewhere or just in the normal vehicle settings?

The hidden menu for the dashboard cluster is accessed through the cluster itself... I've made a video on that. But other than that there's no other hidden menu's

I'm happy its taken care off... More to come soon😁 thank you💪🏽

These were those crappy cheap C6 LED bulbs... Biggest mistake I've ever made😬

Skip these and go for HID's

Unfortunately its not worth the effort to replace with LED's unless you change the whole unit itself. i'd suggest watching the full video for a complete overview ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5fP87Zs5dZY.html

It could be a range of possibilities such as loose bolts, a failing wheel bearing or a warped disc due to manufacturing defects. I'd advise having it looked it ASAP

I'm quite sure that the process for the e90 and e91 are the same, i could be wrong though, in terms of the FRM, it would still require the correct coding to disable the bulb checks, since anything before 09 has halogen bulbs in the taillights which have a higher resistance

Hi, in my case, I was still able to drive the car but in limp mode. Your Case is more an electrical failure either the ground cable is loose from the ecu box, a failure in the Valve Body Round cable, the ground straps on the car need to be renewed or an internal TCM Failure - Diagnosis is required to find the fault

I would suggest going down the route of HID's its a much better option with a much better light output... I've had these LEDs for a few months before upgrading to HID's and its hasn't had any issues since installing them in 2019... But if you want to give it a try, you can do so🙏🏽

Its probably triggering the anti trap... You will probably need to have the car relearn the stop points. I'm not sure how its done manually, i only know via a diagnostic tool🙏🏽

@@Realpreshaanb ok thanks I'll look more into it on Google.

There's no gasket or seal on my downpipe, just straight metal and v-band clamp🙏🏽

@@Realpreshaanb and i assume you dont have any problem with exhaust leaks?

@@cristiannatea4932 that's correct, maybe try tightening up the clamp more or an exhaust sealing paste

@@Realpreshaanb i will remove that stupid gasket and try again without it

Glad to help🙏🏽

You just had to be that guy right?

Ensure the switch is in the correct position and you are using a quality OTG adaptor... If all fails, you can connect wirelessly with a Bluetooth OBD II adaptor... Mine is all the way to the far left and it works... It must be a K+Dcan Cable

Im using a Samsung phone with an original Samsung OTG adaptor. I tried the switch in all positions - still no luck. I have the VGate OBD dongle, which also does not want to connect to the Protool app. But the OBD dongle does work with other apps like car scanner.

@@reshenkowlasser9784 You can get in touch with bimmergeeks and they would advise you much better

@@reshenkowlasser9784 did you find a solution ? im having the same problem

Yes. 1,3,5,6,7 series

Putting it bluntly, not really, i mean this was done almost 2 years ago and when you're in an environment where a car parked in a bay for long periods of time isn't bringing in money, so i got everything done and captured as much as i could... Probably not the answer that you were expecting but I do have a spare motor with a damaged crank and damaged pistons that i want to eventually rebuild. That would probably be a very in depth video

I purchase my spares from any store that HAS the parts in stock or from my local BMW Dealership

You can purchase the thermostat using the link in the video description alternatively at your local parts store or nearest BMW dealership

I can speak for myself since my car is tuned to handle it

Deleting the code for the swirl flaps won't make a difference when it comes to the physical part breaking... So yes it can still happen because its an actual part not a sensor that can be coded out👌🏽

Around 235000Km (bearing in mind that my car is tuned)

1 - its an M47* 2 - it was a faulty injector 3 - its been addressed in the comments 4 - its doing over 250 000 km and the chain is still fine👌🏽

At the time of this rebuild, i used all standard bearings, ARCO brand. The main bearings were untouched since the only damage was to the pistons since the swirl flap injested itself. So i replaced all 4 pistons and rods with the 2nd hand set, all standard big end bearings and the car was perfect. I didn't follow any colour code since everything is all standard sizes

@@Realpreshaanb Thank you for the quick reply, is much appreciated. I have no choice on my car but to change the main bearings as they’re completely wore out, as I said. I couldn’t find many videos about the M47 engines, although for N47 are hundreds on RU-vid, which is weird. I’m planning to reinforce the flaps from the intake manifold using some permanent thread locker, hoping I will avoid any engine damage. 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼

@valentine0606 if you need to put bigger bearings, you will need to send the crankshaft for turning down maybe 10 thou (0.25) so its correct... Your engineer will advise you best... As for the swirl flaps, get rid of them all together, you'll be doing yourself a big favour

@@Realpreshaanb​​⁠I don’t have an engineer, I’m doing the rebuild myself, as I said I did rebuilt two years ago my other BMW E60 with the N47 engine and I never had any issue since. About the swirl flaps, I’d rather keep them as they are because I did try on my N47 to remove them and the car lost power, so I had to buy another intake manifold with the swirl flaps in place and ever since the car drives very good. It’s true that on N47 the flaps are made of plastic so it won’t damage the engine if they break, but for M47 if I will check every now and then to see if the flaps are getting loose and keeping them tight, I don’t see what harm it can do if I will leave them in place. I don’t intend to install oversized bearings as the crankshaft seems to be within specs and I did not do any modification in regard to the cylinder head or engine block. My only concern is in finding the right main bearings and con rods suitable for this engine, as there’s contradictory informations all over the internet about that.

@@valentine0606 Una consulta me compre un serie con m47, pero no encuentro sus partes, Solo consigo kit de reparacion del n47 las partes internas como pistones y kit de empaquetaduras seran los mismo ?

Yes

Tak, przetoczyłem cylindry, wspomniałem o tym w filmie. Cylindry nie zostały powtórnie wiercone i wciąż używają standardowych tłoków o standardowych rozmiarach. (Translated Via ChatGPT)