yes! these are Hedman 66003 sbc 1st gen camaro headers. the 67-69 camaro is a “rear steer” car just like the impala, so the headers are already in the correct shape around the steering box. One bend hit the engine mount bolt, cut a few mm’s off of the bolt and it was plug and play after that. the angle around the transmission mount was awkward but due to the ball-seat collectors I could clear them. passenger side was plug and play too.
@@BaasYT nice good deal .and what response did you get from the headers ? How much of a difference do you feel ? And what engine do you have ? Sorry just I’m strongly considering doing the same thing but need a lot of information first lol
@@southsidehtx1 I expected a low-end torque loss, but to my surprise it was equal if not better. Mid to high end is crispier and feels much stronger, but the previous manifolds had an awful exhaust made of scrap stuff so thats no surprise. I have a 350TBI with modified 305 heads with bigger valves, flat-top pistons, stock TBI cam. CR should be about 10:1 - 10.5:1. It runs on LPG fuel only, so no gas or hybrid G3 fuel system.
@@BaasYT wow that’s sweet man ! my mechanic was able to put the Doug D308SS stainless long tube headers on my 65 327 Impala I was surprised he said he didn’t have any trouble just had to modify the engine mounts a bit Haven’t driven mines yet he’s still adding trickflow heads and a camshaft and he put a hei distributor hei spark plug wires some accel header spark plugs and a edelbrock air gap intake and a old school cherry bomb glasspacks ooooooo it’s gonna wake up big time !
@@BaasYT mines is also going to be about 10 to 1 with the 60cc heads and the flat top pistons with valve reliefs that’s more that enough compression for me !
thanks! its a 350tbi crate engine that runs on LPG, modified 305 heads and flattop pistons. my previous 68 caprice had the original 327, fun little motor
i am looking to decat the car but i don’t want it to sound any louder , i am thinking to put a mid-muffler in the same spot that i remove the middle cat do you have any suggestions ?
Why do you want to decat the car? If you want to, the older K6 regulated 300e does not have a cat and uses a muffler in the middle instead of the big cat. if you still use ke-jetronic you need to have the different EZL module and possibly ECU. Ignition timing and fueling is slightly different, as is the warmup procedure.
Ik heb de w124 recent verkocht, dus kan er geen goede video over maken. Het is niet zo 123 gedaan, zeker zonder ervaring. Er zijn veel Engelstalige video's alsmede facebook groepen die je een beter beeld kunnen geven.
Yes, it for sure does! But you get less engine braking and less pops on an auto like mine. This was for testing purposes only, I have a full stock exhaust on again
@@BaasYT nice. I live in iowa so we don't have any inspections and we aren't required to have a muffler so I may just straight pipe it. The i6 sounds so good in these.
Hi Felix! This is just the exhaust unbolted up to the manifolds. In my other video's I have a mix of the rear muffler deleted, which is on most video's, and some without any mufflers, so straight from the mid section after the catalytic converters. It is back to full stock system at the moment. For the best sound, you could remove the middle resonator / muffler and use a sports rear muffler.
So Im not an expert but i have the same setup ms3x 2.6. From my experience, m103 timing chains stretch alot so make sure you have a new one. There is a fair amount of valve overlap so it might help to delay injector timing. The o2 values at low rpm need to be fairly rich and the spark plugs may not like that. I assume your using the oem idle air control passages for the iacv, those can be really picky and you may want to just get a different iacv, e46 bmw valve is a 3 wire and i had much better luck controlling it.
Thank you very much! I am aware of the chain issue, mine is a 1987 engine so without the dual row chain too. I calculated my injector timing to be finished 10 degrees before the intake valve opening up at idle, increasingly earlier up until 3500rpm where it has no real effect anymore. I will try doing this a little more later, I did not take in account any intake timing drift. How does overlap affect the injector timing? I thought it was better to have the fuel spray against the closed valve just when it is about to open, or earlier so it sits there for a brief moment. Injecting fuel with open or opening valve means difficult tuning, correct?
@@levideboy7029 Vreemd, wellicht had je andere uitlaat een afwijking waardoor die anders afgesteld was dan je zou mogen verwachten, denk aan een los binnenwerk of een originele oude met katalysator. Succes!
@@BaasYT In my country, the upgrades are overly regulated, so cannot tune or change inside. But still looking forward to install a spoiler, exhaust ends and bigger wheels. The 87Hp really makes it a quick one
@@botondtiboldi8109 Go for 15” wheels with 195/50 tires, its the best and widely used. Remove bench seat, its 38kg and makes the car much quicker! Rear swaybar also does a lot for handling, same with Tein lowering springs. Best mods you could do!
Fajnie zrobione. Udało ci się ogarnąć już zapłon i będziesz zostawiał go na tej cewce? Zastanawiam się co wsadzić do swojego M103 2.6, bo czerwone cewkofajki VAG szybko padają od ciepła nawet przy zabandażowanych kolektorach. Myślałem o coil packu z Chryslera (56032520), jakbyś mógł się podzielić namiarem na twoją cewkę to byłbym wdzięczny :)
Dziękuję bardzo! Miałem również czerwone cewki Audi r8 i nigdy nie miałem z nimi problemów, ale chciałem tę opcję, ponieważ czułem, że mogą wkrótce powodować problemy. To jest coilpack VAG VR6 z lat 90-tych, ale odradzam go, ponieważ zaciski są bardzo trudne do zdobycia, są to złącza niegwintowane 4 mm zamiast normalnych złączy SAE około 8 mm. Po miesiącu w końcu znalazłem dobry typ końcówek kablowych, więc mogę robić nowe kable. Zamiast tego możesz użyć coilpacka Opla V6 z lat 90., takiego jak Opel Omega. Ma normalne złącza typu SAE, jak sądzę.
@@BaasYT same. I got like +-100kmph on stock 125cc + PWK28 + thin air filter foam. Been seeing people posting videos of it going 120kmph on youtube 😅. Just got it recently though so i don't really have experience on how should a stock bike perform.
@@datnguyener5722 stock is 90 - 95 km/h max best mod you can do is the Malossi variator kit and 12,5g rollers! after that, 172cc malossi. after that, ofcourse your carb etc, but longer gearing helps top end. with this all 135-140 is easily achieved!
It sounds like its shifting too early in first gear - maybe around 4k rpm, should be shifting much higher. If this is a 4 speed mercedes auto, then you probably need to adjust the transmission, early shifting from first is a sign of them needing some attention. That should bring down the 0-60 a bit
Thank you. The transmission is pretty worn. To counter the sometimes present shift flare, I put the amg spec spring kits in there, which worked great. I did not touch the bowden cable; isn’t this just a bowden cable adjustment?
I just tried launching with the shifter in "2", and then throwing it in D when its in second gear. This way it rvved all the way into the red, and along with a leaner WOT it pulls better.
Thank you! I’ve got it running better, and it’s on the road again :) I have thought about making some video’s about it, this is the second ECU and I’ve changed almost everything again (trigger, injectors, batch to sequential, wiring loom etc etc) so I know a thing or two now.
Sharp eye, its a wasted spark coilpack from a 90’s vag VR6 engine, and opel omega v6 spark plug wires, I have a standalone megasquirt ECU. New proper wires are on the way though.
Thanks! If you KE-Jetronic runs fine, do not touch it at all. It is only worth it when you have big performance plans, or if you did such a conversion a few times before. The original ignition system is pretty good, but just prone to failure with moisture in the cap.
I have also a M103 2.6 that had a moisture problem in distributor cap, i have replaced the cap 2 times, but after i had replaced a bearing on the camshaft behind the rotor the moisture problem went away (for now, knocking on wood)
It does! I think it's also due to the M103 being a 12 valve. There is a video of a m103 turbo in a volvo, untuned, and the choppy idle is exactly like a nice cammed small block chevy with big overlap
Hoe heb je die Turbokit op de juiste maat gekregen voor de aansluiting op de cilinder ? Heb momenteel ook een turbokit voor mijn 100cc zip origineel blok maar de aansluitingen kloppen niet
Je kan de gaten in de flens “open” maken waardoor de bredere tapeinden wel passen. Dan kan je hem gewoon aandraaien, let wel op dat de uitlaatmond exact recht op de cilinder moet. De eerste 2 keer lekte het bij mij wel
@@TheCluelessEnthusiast this is an n/a engine, 87 at the wheels yeah. Pretty fun due to weighing 870kg, but ofcourse there is no real performance, driving it on the limit is fun
Motorzip 100cc 4 takt uit Duitsland. 4 takt 2v dus gewoon, 50mm boring maar lange 49mm slag. Deze had een andere kop en de aansluitingen zijn zoals vespa 4v, en een 20,5mm carburateur ipv 18,5mm. Dus het is meer een koppel beest, de topsnelheid zat meestal tussen 80 en 85 teller maar als je plat ging liggen op een lang stuk ging je over de 100 teller👍 op de rollerbank ging hij toen 90, zaten zware rollen in dus met die lage weerstand kan ie harder dan tegen de wind in
