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Located on the east coast of the USA in a little state called RHODE ISLAND 401 I specialize in car builds mostly Honda's/Acura's I created my own youtube channel to educate and share my experiences with my own personal builds!!! Most if not all the work is done entirely by myself with help of friends and family here and there. If you have any questions or concerns please send me a messaged!!
The END goal with this channel is to make lots of valuable content and ultimately get a sponsorship to upgrade parts at a discounted price to keep awesome content flowing throughout the year!! Thanks for watching my channel!! As always Drive Safe, Drive Smart and DON'T text and drive!
I don’t understand your question? If your taking off brake lines it’s best to just cut the brake line then put a socket on the fitting then break them loose.
Great Video.. Can I ask you a question. My daughter has a 2017 ford explorer and she just had a new AC compression installed, belt and tensioner . When the car is on and in park the ac works fine( cold) and quite. However when she is driving the car is make a whining noise. do you know what the problem might be. If the ac compressor is bypassed there is no noise. The person that installed it thought maybe he new compressor was bad so he installed a second new one, we still have the problem any ideas? Thank you !
Thanks for watching!! It’s hard to make a diagnosis but if the A/C and tensioner have been replaced I would rule those out. There are many idler pulleys on this truck and one of the bearing could be failing and that’s why is sequels under a load. So it could be a few things idler pulleys as there are 3 I believe and or it could be an alternator pulley or power steering pulley. The way I check noises in that area is with a mechanic stethoscope and check each pulley until I find the noise/loudest pulley noise.
@@builtjfilion934 Thank you .. I'll check those but what's strange is that if we bypass the a/c compressor pulley , the car is silent ( idle and while driving)
Yes sir any 96-2000 civic should be interchangeable. Try and stick with 96-98 or 99-00 depending on your set up. Most people change their 96-98 rad support for a 99-00 rad support for the 00 front conversion but either front end will fit on either rad support with slight modifications
Great video. I have a 2011 June and the mess of wires always makes me think someone has completely taken the car apart. Then I watch another video and see that all of them are like that. I can’t believe that came from a factory with wiring like that.
me and my dad got new knuckle and ball joints, but we might expanded upper control arm hole when we tried replacing the ball joint. thus having to get a new control arm. this helped out a lot tryna figure out the best course. but since we are gonna be back in there might as well get a new suspension
The j32a2 is what everyone wants because it’s a cable throttle body like B series but the j32a3 is drive by wire so that’s the only option I had running a stock ecu
@@NastyNaj1 no I’m running a stock ECU. Maybe Kpro has the ability to delete drive by wire but if you do have a stand alone system like AEM fueltec or haltec you can probably run the cable wire if the tuner can tune it for you but I’m not 100 percent sure you’d have to check with your local tuner.
Where did you get that universal brake line? I just paid 40$ for an oem one cause mine rounded over and i have to do the other side so i was gonna go ahead and order another brake line for that but i see youre using a universal one howd you know it would fit?
On my 01 the brake line rounded and the 10mm wheel clyinder mounting bolt rounded now i have to take the backing plate off and drill the 10mm out or use an extraction socket with an impact. I took all 4 bolts off the backing plate and it feels like seized i soaked it in wd-40 and penatating oil and tomorrow im gonna wack at it and pry
DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE A COMPUTER TO TUNE YOUR CAR… YES You need to Dyno after this the car will choke & just bog out do to high air intake & low fuel intake the fuel rail is only going to help but so far
Can you show me where the wire is coming from that plugs into the radiator please. My radiator didnt come with a sensor and i dont know what wire to plug in. Is it a certain color or a diagram i can find please help.
Depends what ecu your running. In my case I used the y7 throttle body & y7 ecu that looks for the 3 plug signal. So yes the other iacv that sits on the back of the sk2 mani is useless just loop the hose from one nipples to the other to prevent a vacuum leak. If your using it with a y8 5spd ecu then you use the iacv on the back of the skunk2 mani and run the coolant lines to the water pipe on the block and the other one to the intake/ or thermostat housing( each set up is different).
Engine degreaser and a nice soft mare free rag. Some use a wire brush but it could cause small scratches throughout the head so try not to apply hard pressure
