In my lifetime I have learned a lot of trades and skills including, pipe welding, pipe fitting, electrical, HVAC, MVAC, automotive mechanics, plumbing, carpentry, and all around maintenance. This channel is for anyone wanting and willing to repair most anything in their home from their appliances, electrical, A/C systems, drywall, flooring, etc. I will also be showing some automotive work as I have the opportunities.
I’m a retired Union pipe welder and have been retired for nine years. I had an older Miller Econo Tig welder, but the board has went out and parts are expensive and pretty much not available. This Prime Weld machine looks pretty good thanks for the video.
Thank you! Most HVAC companies would not go to this extreme but since it is my own equipment, I wanted to make it user friendly. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it!
Thanks for the suggestion. I'm actually doing a how to mirror weld video this week, and after this suggestion I think I'm going to include the basics as well.
@@SkillSavvyDIY I was thinking of the people that will follow along. They are going to want to be able to burn some wire. Perhaps some of your projects could be videos that do flux core. I am a looking forward to watching the content.
@@SkillSavvyDIY I think that’s wonderful. I plan to break out my flux core and follow along. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. On a side note… I am seriously considering taking the plunge and ordering the Pitts and Spits Adjustable charcoal grill. Thank you for making those videos.
Hey Rus what a great troubleshooting tool. I had no idea something like this existed except at automotive repair shops especially dealerships. It's so hard to diagnose vehicles these days with all of the technology. This seems to be a great product. Thanks for another awesome tip!
Hey Rob! Yeah it really amazed me that I could literally look at every system in the car, plus the ability to turn things on and off through the app is really beneficial while performing any diagnosis on the car. Can't beat it for the price point!
I set my scanner up to read in Fahrenheit instead of Celcius, and it will read in American English rather than Metric. I do like the Grams Per Second on the Mass Air Flow meter. Information is the key to success in any diagnostics. Great tool!
Yeah I need to do that to this one as well. I have a unit converter on my phone, but I rather it just read what I'm use to. Yeah not a bad tool at all especially considering the price point. Thanks for watching Stephen!
hi, Russ,Greg here.i just found your video while researching a new Tig machine for myself.i have lots of welding experience but none with a Tig and want to learn.i think it will be a big help and a good addition to the Lincoln mig i have now.like you i was impressed with the Prime weld machines and will buy one,just deciding on which one to buy,a DC machine or the AC/DC 225X.none of my old cars have any aluminum but you never know what's around the corner i guess.well done.great video.
Since you are already a welder you will pick up tig welding fast. As for me, I wanted the aluminum option, mainly just to have it incase I ever need it. Thank you, I appreciate you taking time to watch it and comment!
Thank you for this video! I just purchased this welder today, excited for it to arrive. I would love to see more tig videos with tips included! Time to hunt for argon!
Good stuff man, thanks for sharing. I've got a 36v club car that's not charging... gonna try to charge the batteries like you said with a normal charger first and then see if the golf cart charger starts charging. One question, I have a normal battery charger that has a 6v option... so I'm assuming I can charge them one at a time on 6v, correct?
Yes you can either charge with the 6 volt option on each battery or to speed things up a bit, do two batteries at the same time using the 12 volt setting as I did in the video. Hope it solves your problem and thanks for watching.
Russ, Good video my question is i have very similar chest freezer I converted to a cold plunge I filled with water about half way. My water is only getting to 50 deg! Last year it was getting all the way down to 29 deg! Ice/Frost forms above the water line but for some reason its not cooling below 50 this year! Any tips? The only thing i did different this year was coat the inside with pond shield! Your advise would be much appreciated:)
The only thing I can think of other than a possible loss of refrigerant would be the pond shield you used, could be causing to much insulation between the evaporator and the water to achieve the colder temps you had last year. If it doesn't have good thermal conductance then that could possibly be your issue.
Thanks for getting back to me I had been thinking the same thing! Last night i filled the freezer to the top of frost line and it actually came down to the set point of 40 degrees. I also had unplugged the freezer and turned the switch to the off position for about ten minutes hoping it would do a reset! This morning i got in to allow the water to over flow for my normal body weight. Now will see if it controls!
Which shipyard did you work in building the aluminum super structures for the Arleigh Burke class destroyers I was with the US Navy supervisors of shipbuilding overseeing the construction of those at the Ingalls shipyard in the 1990s
I worked and retired from Ingalls Shipbuilding in Pascagoula MS. Ingalls is now Huntington Ingalls shipbuilding and is combined with the shipyard in Newport New, VA
I was with US Navy Sup. of Ship Building at Pascagoula from 90-95 as an active duty sailor. I worked the LHD, destroyer, and cruiser program as an onsite inspector. My son is a paramedic with the Harrison County fire dept. I have the same welder. I was wondering I could email you from time to time to get advice on using it. I have not TIG welded since I was at Jefferson Davis Community College back in the 90's. medliningmachineworks@gmail.com
A bad control valve will have the same symptom and they go bad very often. It's a lot cheaper to replace a defective $30 control valve than an expensive compressor and it is a lot easier.
Yes I said that in the video but I also explained why I would never change just the control valve if it was the problem, especially on a 9 year old compressor
People must not buy cars that is costly and difficult to fix like cars with dryer that attached to condenser that can not be replaced separately ask mechanic which car is good and easy to fix before buying it I have Nissans and I am not happy with them to replace PVC valve the is about 10 dollars I have to pay 500 dollars to replace it because there is no way to reach back or the engine the head has to come off before changing PVC Valve some other parts are designed the same way.
They are purposely making cars more difficult for your every day backyard mechanic to fix. So you have no choice but to bring it to the dealer. They are way over complicating things for no other reason than “the more parts on a vehicle that can break, the higher the chance you will bring it back to the dealer”
Just curious, but method do you use to flush? Our shop uses that flush in a can that comes with a hose and nozzle. Our new R1234yf machine has a flushing option that i believe uses refrigerant to flush the system. I hate the messiness of manual flushing. Also found if a system grenaded and there is rhat pasty antiseize coating inside the pipes, flushing dowsnt seem to do a great job. Had to replace the entire system on a Pilot because of that. I guess flushing could have its own video....lol
@@SkillSavvyDIY I love working on this stuff. I’ve done it on the side for a few years and have done hvac for the past 2-3 years and I’m done with hvac. HVAc industry is so corrupt. I just quit my job and I’m trying to dedicate 100 percent on automotive heating and air doing something I enjoy.
Have you done the mult- meter test from HF? I have several free meters as gifts HF. Sit as many as you have an rest off same battery at same time to see how accurate they are to each other?
I think you worry too much for a little freon to the air. Thousands of car leak freon every day and even the shop release it to the air when their machine is broken but have you there paying to recovering. Are they going to tell you the machine is Broken? They think about money, and everyone is thinking about saving and make money.
It's not about being worried, it's about being educated. The penalties for any violations of the Clean Air Act include: Civil fines of up to $44,539 per day per violation (as of 2017) Criminal prosecution in US Federal Court (5 years, or double if it’s a second offense) Confiscation of violating substances (refrigerants) Loss of certification to handle refrigerants In addition to the Clean Air Act, which is a federal law, many state and local governments impose additional restrictions. These regulations may be equally or more stringent than those of the Clean Air Act. There is also a sizeable reward for whistleblowers. Of course cars, homes, and buildings leak refrigerant, but laws are put into place to account and minimize this by putting timelines on repairs depending on the size of the leak. It is the act of purposely releasing refrigerant that gets you into trouble. It is impossible to prevent all leaks that happen daily throughout the world and that's exactly why new environmentally friendly refrigerants have and are being developed. I just hope they get it right this time. I can't tell you how many systems I have retrofitted from R12 to R134A through the 1990's to save the ozone and it's like an instant replay because R134A is now being replaced with R1234YF to reduce greenhouse gasses.
Rus thank you for putting out this video my wife was in a frenzy 😅 we were about to spend another $200 on a freezer. I did exactly what you said and got the part from Amazon and im up and running thanks again...
I've looked at this welder very seriously, but I absolutely suck at TIG so I've moved away from that skill and more toward perfecting the various wife-feed processes. Can you answer whether the PrimeWeld 225 runs A/C stick? Seems like I read somewhere that on "stick" mode, it's D/C only. Also, are you here on the MS Gulf Coast?
Yes here on the Mississippi gulf coast in Biloxi. Far as I know it welds stick on DC, only but I haven't tried in on AC. I personally would not want to weld with AC stick. About the only stick rod you can use on AC with any good success is a 6011 and perhaps a 6013, but they both do better on DC. When it comes to stick, I prefer 7018 and it is a DC rod as well. Tig is not that hard, it just takes practice. It's definitely my prefered process over all of them.
I am going to build one of these myself. Thanks for the video! I do have a question regarding positive vs negative pressure systems. Mine is a combined HVAC/Furnace in the attic and I have been told that it is a positive pressure system. There is a small trap (not as deep as the one you show) at the exit of the Coil Exchanger and there is an uncapped vent / clean out pipe rising up next to exchanger and before the trap (ie. drain water passes out of the exchanger, past the uncapped vent into the trap out of the trap to the drain line which ends just like yours does, without a 4-6" rise on the outside). However, the vent next to the exchanger is left UNCAPPED and I can feel air passing out of it when the compressor is on. Should this be capped or left uncapped? When I install the type of p-trap you show here, there are caps on both pipes leading up from the trap. Should both be capped? or both be uncapped during normal operation. Or should the one closest to the exchanger be uncapped and the other one capped, or vis-versa? Hope my equation is clear! Clearly I am a NOOB but I believe I can do what you are showing in your video. Just not sure if your system was a Positive or Negative pressure system and which caps to use when it is a Positive pressure system like mine? Update to my question: At the very end of the video you mentioned your setup was also a furnace, so I am thinking it is also a POSITIVE pressure system like mine. In which case I should cap or turn-off the valve going into the 1st vent of the trap and uncap (ie. open the valve) after the trap. Is that correct?
The vent for the drain line should be just past the trap heading downstream and the clean out should be just ahead of the trap or I should say between the unit and the trap. If the shallow trap you have is holding water then you should not be feeling air coming out of the vent, but you would feel air coming out of the clean out if the cap is off. You need to only remove the cap from the clean out while actually using it to clear a clog in the line then put the cap back on. The vent line always stays open since the water in the trap will prevent air from blowing through plus it can’t drain properly if it’s not open. Similar to drains in your home. They have to have vents. I personally don’t care for those type of traps but if it’s holding water then it’s doing its job. Hope this helps
