Hi there, I had left a comment yesterday pointing to a video of mine, but it has disappeared and perhaps it is not allowed to link to outside media in comments. Anyway, my questions stands, I have a 2021 4x4 Sprinter with 30k miles and I have a loud noise coming from the rear wheels/brakes that squeal when drive normally and then stops when applying the brakes. Is this what you are referring to in the beginning of your video as a typical issue with Sprinters? Thanks for your help (my dealer already made me change my front disc and pads for $1500 for nothing and wants to charge me $2500 for the rear not being able to confirm whether it is actually the brakes...)
That's so weird - I didn't see your comment at all! Sorry about that. Comments aren't super reliable all the time. But anyways, it sounds like you have the same symptoms as we had. Regular driving, usually after a short warm-up period, it would start to squeal in the rear and would vary with vehicle speed. If we applied the brakes, the squeal would stop. I believe I narrowed it down to a design flaw. I don't have any confirmation of this, but it LOOKS LIKE when they changed the parking brake from cable-actuated to electronic, they didn't remove part of the casting on the axle flange that was part of that system. If you take your rotor off, you'll see a big nub sticking out that does nothing. On our van, that nub had clear signs of metal to metal contact. It was rubbing against our rotor inside face ever so slightly. Whenever we'd apply the brakes, it would move the rotor just enough to break contact and the squeal would stop. I put Power Stop rotors on and applied some grease to the worn part of the axle flange nub and it hasn't made a noise since. If you're at all inclined, you can replace your brakes for way less than $2500. That's ridiculously high in my opinion.
Thank you so much! I think MB knew all along, but still pretended they didn’t and made me change the front at only $1500 to “isolate” the issue. They am not sure I visualize what you are describing, I would be curious to change the brakes myself, but I have never done it on a modern car that I use on long distance with the family, so I am a little scared. When changing the rotor, how can I know the noise is not going to reappear? The grease is enough? Isn’t there a part that is better designed?
@@EdTwoMRif the rotor offset is slightly different, it could alleviate the issue. It could be as minor as machining tolerances. I'm not really sure that the grease did anything at all, to be honest. You could file down the nub if you want to be totally sure it won't come back.
@@robertwcote Thank you so much for these answers. It really helps me understands better what is going on. Overall I absolutely love my sprinter, but MB is a real pain to deal with and between the EGR valve getting clogged, the automatic sliding door not always working fine in winter and now that brake issue, I am quite annoyed.. I wish Toyota would make a good looking van like the size of the Sprinter.. 🙂
For the front diff, I was able to cut out a piece of cardboard and fit it under the drain to direct the fluid off the cross member. It made for a very easy cleanup. Thanks for all the service B videos, they're a big help!
As noted above the brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmosphere thru the reservoir vent. The fluid level goes up and down while driving and braking. The vent allows moist air to enter the reservoir and contact the fluid. Not only is internal corrosion a concern, but the fluid in the brake caliper rises in temperature during braking. Braking on a long downhill and when towing a trailer increases the heating of the brake system and the moisture will boil at 100C or 212F at sealevel and lower at higher elevations. When the moisture goes into a vapor phase when heated, it increases in volume and becomes compressible. This makes the braking system weaker and the brake pedal requires more travel to get the same braking effect and may need more travel than available. That can lead to damage to the van and worse to people inside and outside of the Sprinter. The Higher DOT leval means the brake fluid itself boils at a higher temperature but it also absorbs water easier. No right answer.
If the torque converter does not drain after removing the drain plug, turn the torque converter either direction a couple of degrees to let air in and oil out.
🤔If you had got some cheap cupboards about 40 inches high, you could have built the bed on top of them. Like those IKEA beds with cupboards underneath. That would have given you storage space without the big closet and would have left room for a small kitchen,where the large closet now stands. Next to the bed, instead of the open shelves, add a narrow, tall, inexpensive all-purpose closet and you would have even more storage space without losing any space. At the foot of the bed, where the base units leave a free space between the right and left "underbed" units , you could store an extendable table and with two folding chairs that you can hang on the wall, you would also have a place to sit😉😘
i am gonna do mine on my 2020 sprinter next week only question ihave is buttons to reset parking brake motor would be nice to have videoed that cause weather its sound i cant make it out claearly ty Bro
Thanks for the video. 👍 I just finished the transmission and differentials. I couldn't believe how tight the rear plug was. King Kong must have been working at the Sprinter factory that day! After breaking loose it was still very hard to turn for about 5 revolutions.
Very Excited about your post! Can you provide info on how you modified brackets for the Sprinter van install? Secondly, does the front of the bed need to be supported by a counter?
It is easier to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter AND the cooler by filling the new fluid the undoing the return line from the cooler and then top up the fluid and continue until CLEAN fluid arrive up that line, the refit and refill the fluid through the drain hole until the oil just co es out of the plastic level plug, then check the fluid temperature on the computer. Check the level at the right temperature then seal the filler/drain plug. You can buy a dip stick marked in the right levels for temperatures, they are on eBay and consist of a looong flexible rod with a plastic stick on the end with the marks for levels.
Thanks for posting a review of a bit of an unknown product! After the bed is up and resting on the front stops, you mentioned in your build video, the ability to lock it in to position "for travel". I would assume at this point the weight of the bed is/could be supported by the rear locking pins and the front bumper stops. My question is this: what is the possible feasibility of using some sort of removable "quick connect pins" such as a lynch pin where the struts meet the bottom bracket, allowing the user to disconnect the bottom of the struts and move them up and out of the way? At that point, I'd imagine one would have to figure out how to store and retain the struts to keep them from moving or falling down. Just curious to know if you'd have any insight on this idea as it seems it would clear some room when the bed is up. Thanks for your time!
You can easily do this with just a Velcro strap if you wanted. In case you've never worked with gas struts before, the ends disconnect simply with just a small flathead screwdriver or similar prying tool. There's a spring clip on each socket, which just needs to be slid out of the way, then the socket can be pulled off the ball. I'd suggest disconnecting the lower joints then secure the struts to the bed frame with a Velcro strap. It might be slightly difficult getting the rear ones on and off the ball (those seem to carry the most load), but if you pick up on the bed while you do it, that should help make it easier. Good luck!
I like to follow existing cable pathways whenever possible because they're in areas deemed safe by the manufacturer. Also, it keeps the cable safe from road debris. Those were the main factors.
I think the recommended service interval is 40,000 miles. It's been a while since I looked it up, so I could be wrong, but I'm pretty sure it's commonly included in service B, which is a 40,000 mile interval.
Rear diff at 40k miles and again at 120k miles. Transmission can be done at 60k miles, but then you have to do a full flush, which is a lot of work and a big mess. If you do it every 40k miles, then there is a quick partial flush that is a lot easier and less messy; but you have to do it more often. (link below) Depending on how often you use the 4x4, the front diff and transfer case are typically done together, since they get the same amount of wear and tear. They are changed out between 80k-120k miles. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6e-0QtYDuos.htmlsi=UM-VIyo6LWel34ab
You could! Do we know who the OEM is for the air filters? I suspect it's probably Mann. The filters shown here fit correctly, you just have to not be an idiot like me as you're installing them. Once they're in, they're great. I just struggled to get there.
Try rockauto.com. You may want to know the part number on your original filter if you want to do an exact replacement, since there were different filters used for different regions of the world. The part number will be marked on the outside of your filter; you'll have to lift it out of its bracket to read it. The OEM is Mann, if you want to stick with the original brand.
Hi Rob, Im starting this transmission service and Im a bit confused about getting the new fluid into the transmission. I see you rigged up a pump,but Im not clear where you pumped it in. I looked all over my tranny and can't find a fill hole. And certainly no tranny dip stick to fill through. Im all set-up. Tools, parts and supplies. I've got the converter spun around and ready to drain. I purchased a garden sprayer to pump the new fluid in. TIA for your help John.....ps your videos are great. Ive used them to do oil change service, fuel filter service, engine air & cabin filters, differential. After tranny will come brake power bleed the fluid and coolant flush.
Hey John, so glad we could help you out. We love that feedback!! The transmission fluid goes in through the drain hole. Sorry if that wasn't clear in the video. There's a tube around the hole inside the pan (when you take the pan off, it will make way more sense). The tube sets the depth of fluid so you can't overfill the transmission. Just add fluid until it runs back out, with the engine running, and then replace the drain plug.
Great question! You can measure the rotor thickness to ensure they're still within the specified dimensions. If they are, best practice is to resurface them so they're nice and flat again. This allows the new pads to work properly with the old rotors. I always do both rotors and pads because it's only a little bit more cost, but less effort to not have to bring the rotors to a shop to be turned. Plus, new rotors will give a longer service interval over reusing the old ones.
Yeah it was out of control to remove the front rotors. The new stuff has been outstanding for about 25,000 miles! Very happy with the Powerstop hardware. It's clean, quiet, and stops great.
Hi, I just got my 2016 4x4 sprinter back from the 80000 mile service. Tech suggest replacing front diff sighting fluid leak, service writer quoted $12000.00 repair cost. It appears to be weeping rather than leaking I’ll be monitoring fluid levels closely in the coming months. And thoughts?
I'm not sure if the NCV3 uses the same front differential as the VS30, but there seems to be an issue with the front driveshaft input seal on the later models. The seal is not available to purchase anywhere. Our whole front differential was just replaced under warranty to remedy the leaking seal. I think the differential is around $4,000 If you can do it yourself, but it requires removing the entire front suspension and subframe.
4:27 Mercedes Benz has a service bulletin that says to not do exactly what you do here. Anytime that turbo Intake seal is disturbed you should replace the seal (clean and dry), and torque the clamp 3Nm.
Nope! I left the inlet pipe attached for the whole job. I merely loosened the clamp enough to rotate it up out of the way. It gave enough room to get the fuel filter out and back in without having to remove the pipe and potentially dislodge the seal.
Great question! I believe there are specialty pliers for these clamps, however I was able to complete the job without them. I used a small flat head screwdriver to open the clamps by prying up the lock tab. To re-secure them afterwards, I just squeezed the lock tab back over with pliers. They haven't leaked in 25,000 miles since.
How much oil did you get out of the front differential? I just did mine and I got ~550ml which is ~0.6 quart. That's what made it to the oil catch can (that I then poured into a quart measuring cup). There would be a little on the cross member that just got mopped up with paper towels. It took about the same to refill (so that it started to overflow the fill hole). I was expecting more and I'm curious why only ~0.6 quart. Also, I contacted my local MB, and torque spec for the fill/drain plugs of front differential are 10 Nm (which equates to 7.3 ft lbs).
Great work on this video!!! This will help a whole lot For the driver’s side step, did you custom cut it or is there a separate product for the drivers door?
Thanks for the feedback! The driver's door step is essentially the same as the passenger's side, except the step piece is shorter. The parts came together in a kit from Sprinter Store. I believe today you can also purchase it from the manufacturer - Amp-Research - directly. It won't require any cutting.
I was literally having this convo with the dealer today as I am at 36k the rears were done at 20k and are needed again, all do dragging, this is a rust issue which I would say is a design flaw, but they say is an issue with our road treatments in VT. @@OutofIpswich
I just changed my rotors and pads on my 2014 and the front were the most seized I have ever seen. I ended up having to replace the knuckle and hub on one side and used a 10,000lb puller on the other side which barely worked. This is bad engineering on Mercedes side.
