We are a small Christmas tree farm in Western Ky. We planted our first trees in the spring of 2019. We will be bringing you some of the everyday chores from around the house and farm . Hope to see you around Christmas and enjoy the content!
I got ICOT L2501 it in April 2023 and I got 580.3 hours on it and it is so light I we ny to go on my building and rolled iit over and it’s not steep and it rolled over I had my first L2501 burnt uu in our 4 stall garage and 4 other buildings burn up i To lost everything and that Kubota L2501 I have 33 acres farm and I took it over every hill that I thought it would roll over and it never came off the ground but my new one I can’t keep the rear tires on the ground and I can take Garden crashers I put them right in my building and they never rolled this when I can’t keep on the ground. They made it light a lot lighter than the other one. You might wanna try a new one for you. Bye. Have a good day, buddy. Thanks a lot.
Hi great video been tree farming long a lot work there with mulch and irrigation both is there a reason you’ve chosen 2 gph emitters ? Seems excessive idk maybe real porous soil ? Thanks
For you guys that have an L2501 HST, could you please measure your hydraulic level for me? I need to know the measurement on level ground left to right and front to back but even if sorta level would still help me. I need the measurements using a clean straight wire down the fill hole at the back below the seat back. You'll need a wire at least 17" plus more if you leave a big hook on end so it can't go anywhere if you dropped it. On mine I played only a bit taking gentle jabs until I got it to sink to the bottom of the transmission case. It was easy to get it down to bottom. It does hit something sorta soon after sticking into hole but was easy to get it past that obstruction. From top of neck mine was 16.25 " or so to the O-ring on filler cap, my fingers sorta big so that's not exact. If you could tell me your dip measurement from bottom of wire to your oil level, I'd appreciate it. Especially if it's right after you did a service and it's showing near the top of the site glass. My site glass is on the left side behind where there's a slight cutout at the bottom on the vertical tranny tunnel. Some are forward from there below the clutch pedal. Not sure if that'd give me an accurate enough dip measurement, so prefer if yours is back behind the clutch pedal too. I discovered a leak and not sure how much I've lost, leaked onto gravel. Not sure source of leak yet either. Somewhere up centre of tractor about inline with where the filter is. I need to use the tractor to clear some snow but can't get any UTD 2 Super fluid yet. I need to clear snow to get out to purchase it. It'd be great to know my level is just shy of it showing in bottom of site glass. I've jacked right side up a bit and still not seeing it yet in site glass. If mine is too low I don't want to risk damaging the hydrostatic drive. (I know it's hydraulic fluid, not crankcase oil). Thanks much if any of you could help with this 👍
I have a b2320 and am working with the dealer to upgrade to a L2501. That little b2320 is a lot of tractor for such a small package! I’m excited for the upgrade too!
I have a 4060 and did a bunch of dirt work just today with it and the R4s are impressive none the less. As far as hooking implements up, you have no idea how much the QH15 quick hitch is worth. It is worth its weight in gold. You are almost foolish to not want to use a quickhitch.
Be careful pushing your hydraulics that hard. Those cylinders and lines are rated for a max pressure and you were easily exceeding that vastly. Go check out Messick's video on cylinder pressure spikes and the damage it can cause.
Nice tractor. I like the improvements. Nice sound. One suggestion. You should wear your seat belt when you have your ROPS up. ROPS down, the dealership said no seat belt. Problem of not wearing the seat belt with the ROPS up is in a roll over you get thrown out of the seat and the ROPS pins ya. Check your manual and see what it says. Only reason I mention it is the owner of the business I got it from made a special point of going over the ROPS with me and he emphasized this. The L4060 is really substantially less noisy L3800 three cylinder diesel. When I blow snow with the RPM set to deliver 540 RPM at the PTO I use a gallon per hour. Mine is a 2013 model and it doesn't have the DEP addition to clean the exhaust. That was required on the 2014 models and since. I really like the pivot steering column. For short guys like me that is a bonus. I purchased my tractor in Feb, 2014, a 2013 model and really like how it handles everything. I also got a set of forks for it. They are really handy. I have a crate with a 4' x 6' piece of 3/4" plywood attached to the crate top. I use this as a portable work bench whenever I have work to do outside. One stopped up and easy clean up after the job is done. When the tractor is shut down the hydraulic pressure has a tendency to slowly drain off so I carry a 36" leg I can slip under the forks to hold the front up. That alone has saved me countless hours of extra work running around and looking for my tools. Ya. I am very pleased with my my new later model tractor, the L3800.
I would say it you r4 tires are limited on the type of terrain you have but you have your reasons and that's cool to nice tractor I have a l 4701 gear drive with ag r1 and love it .nice tractor you have wish I could have kept your other along with that one also
Just wonted to say I love your tractor I'm waiting on the same one . Also I am fixing to start a tree farm early next year waiting on the land to open up it's leased out to a farmer right now. How do you go about watering your trees.
I have a L2501 HST, which is also being sold. It is an AMAZING machine! I moved up to a LS MT357 Shuttle Cab, which is also an amazing machine, but I'm about to pop, because you didn't say what your new tractor is !!! Inquiring minds want to know. : )
Nice to see a video with the same tractor I own (except I have the cab). As a suggestion, I recommend running the rpm higher when using the loader (or any other function for that matter). The power-up function is ok for intermittent use but if you read the manual and/or talk to the techs, running at least 1800-2000 rpm will not only maintain your hydraulic pressure but will also drastically increase the time between DPF burns. Moreover, contrary to popular opinion, it doesn’t burn any more fuel at higher rpm. Messick’s just did a really interesting video on fuel consumption vs rpm and proved this. Those engines are designed to run efficiently at higher rpm and use virtually the same amount of fuel as they do at just above idle. I have used my L4060 cab in the bush regularly in the 3 years I have owned it and I have never had an issue with catching the hydraulic lines on anything. The only issue I’ve had is bending one of the rear hazard light brackets on a tree branch (on the cab, the rear flashers are mounted at the top rear of the cab). I straightened the bracket and tucked them in a bit tighter - no problem since. As for that bucket level indicator, it’s easily adjustable. Put your bucket flat on the ground, loosen the set screw, and move it until it lines up with the calibration mark while looking at it FROM THE SEAT. I have also added permanent black marker lines to line up my pallet forks parallel to the ground - it’s not the same for each attachment. Do you have the tires loaded? If not, do it for safety. And as for rear ballast weight, don’t waste your money on a ballast box - just use a rear attachment like a box blade or whatever, along with loaded tires.
use your box blade with scarifire dig Your stump out / ez as pie / ANGLE YOUR BOX BLADE LET 1 OR 2 SCARIFIRE DOWN , YOUR WAY U CAN START DIGGING STUMP OUT
It worked well but sometimes struggles with more than one large log. The new tractor has more lift capacity and handles them better but of course it is a larger tractor.
Your complaint on fuel tank...I got a siphon hose from academy sports 7$ it was for boats...has a ball in a hose..very easy to use...made fueling tractor much easier
I’m glad to see these reviews. I’m in the process of getting a 2501 HST (I hope), lol. Have you ever thought of using the small hand pumps like we used to use for Kerosene heaters back in the day? We lost power for 11 days during Isabel, no electricity, no gas stations for a while. I put a piece of hose on it and used it to syphon gas out of my old truck but gravity works in your favor. This way it would be uphill so might be exhausting now that I think of it but I’m only 5’7” so I need to rig something up, maybe sitting the can above the tractor on a small platform or if it would stay, on top of a step ladder, then the kerosene hand pump would work like a dream, no scratching, no spillage, etc. thanks
I hope you don't regret the R4 tires. They were the biggest disappointment with my Kubota - they lack sideways traction (working hillsides the rear would slip downhill), and when they fill with clay or snow they're not so great even forward.
Ive had that exact problem in the past and just work around it when i can. I got them because i do alot of mowing and working in and around all the trees so its a trade off because of ground pressure.
I just got rid of my l2501 loved the tractor it just didn’t have the pto power for a brush hog in thick tall grass. Also I had the gear drive tractor and seemed like high was to high and low was to low good tractor though.
Its a whole lotta clay! After 6 weeks of drought i could still go out and find water standing a foot down. I turn the soil over 3 times before ever planting a tree now.
I don't recommend the HST there's nothing the matter with the stick. you have the wrong tires You should have got that AG tires. You also need ballast in the rear tires. The HST transmission whines All the time, and is annoying.
That level indicator is adjustable. Your bucket will be level with the quick attach plate tilted forward. Your forks will be level with the quick attach plate nearly vertical. So if it’s adjusted correctly for the bucket, it will be wrong for the forks and vice versa. I adjusted mine for the bucket (because I can’t see the leading edge corners at all) but I can see the forks enough to not worry about that too much. There is a jam nut on the bold that holds the indicator to the orange tube that you can loosen and adjust the indicator. Tighten the bolt first (I think it holds the long silver rod in place), then tighten the nut once you’ve got the indicator even with the orange side.
