Helping Do It Yourselfers with home and automotive projects in a concise and informative manner. My name is Mike and I've been doing auto and home repair projects for over 35 years. I haven't done it all, but have a good working knowledge of almost any kind of home or auto repair. Thanks for watching the channel!
Would the process be similar for a 2014 Sentra SV? I can't seem to find the plug on the bottom of the engine. All the bolts just look like normal bolts!!!
@@MightyMemeKing yes, the process should be the same. The plastic drain cock should be at the bottom of the radiator facing towards the engine. Good luck with your project!- Mike
@Michael-db4sn Hello, rubber or silicone oil cooler lines are rated for oil and pressure, which should give them a 10 - to 15-year life expectancy. I would check them for bulging or deterioration every oil change, as you get close to the 10 year mark. Of course, this could be sooner or later, depending on weather, road conditions, driving habits, etc. Good luck with your projects!- Mike
The strut-to-knuckle bolt was the exact trick I needed to cleanly slot the LCA ball joint into the knuckle. Wasted 20-30 minutes rolling on the ground trying to lever the thing into place like some of these other weird ass videos out there.
Thanks. Just did my 23 and other than one module that partially blocked the filter went great. Module comes out with a 3 Phillips head bracket. No big deal.
@passatman1000 Hello, I thought the stance was better, but I replaced the rear springs only because the back end lowered/sagged a lot when I towed a small travel trailer. The springs made a big difference, and I was able to get rid of the air bags within the rear coils. It also seemed better riding when not towing anything. Good luck with your project!- Mike
Hello. I have a 2010 Altima 2,5L 110K. I cleaned my valve cover 1 year ago but there is again little oil on it and around the pcv valve. Do I have a problem or is it the same with your altima? TY
If you have oil around it, the valve may need to be tightened some more, or the hose on it may need replacement. You could try a clamp on the hose if there isn't any right now. Good luck with your project!- Mike
My problem is, there is years of mold inside the tanks in my building. The manager/maintenance have known about the problem and never properly cleaned them or replaced them. I live in a building for seniors and people on disability.
I would replace the whole toilet myself or have someone replace it for me if you're not able to. All you'll need is to be able to shut the water off at the wall next to the toilet, then you're able to replace it. The tools needed are sockets, socket wrench, or an adjustable wrench, and a flat head screwdriver. You might need a new hose or fill tube leading from the water supply going to the toilet. There are many videos showing how to replace a toilet. Good luck with your project!- Mike
I got them from a racing company that had them back ordered from the manufacturer. I believe they were a drop shipping type of company. Z-1 OffRoad is one website. Amazon or Ebay may have them. I think the company I used was from Australia. Good luck with your project!- Mike
I got them from a racing company that had them back ordered from the manufacturer. I believe they were a drop shipping type of company. Z-1 OffRoad is one website. Amazon or Ebay may have them. I think the company I used was from Australia. Good luck with your project!- Mike
Im have this system for a bed lift of my Riverstone, Im getting that same code, but everytime I go to raise it, the motor on one side seems to active, and when I go to lower it, the opposite side seems to only work, causing it to know be crooked and put me in a pickle.....any thoughts? Would greatly appreciate it being this system on a bed isn't that common and troubleshooting knowledge is limited.
I've never had a bed leveling system, only 2 hydraulic pistons with one on each side of the bed. I would say the jamming motor may need to be replaced, or look at the tracks on both sides and make sure there are no broken teeth, or check for a possible detached, misaligned or bent track. Good luck with your project!- Mike
@@mikesdoityourself I definitely appreciate the insight. After further troubleshooting it seems like the controller is bad. Was able to hotwire it using a power probe so the issues seems to lie with the controller. $500 bucks for a new one lol
I couldn't tell that big of a difference from a comfort standpoint of how it was riding before or after the coil change. It just rode a little higher for trailering. I felt it rode nice either way. Good luck with your project!- Mike
I don't have a video for it, but it could be an issue with the motor itself. I recently had an issue with water getting in between the slide and the wall of the RV, hitting the top of the motor. The motor had seized and had to be replaced. With some RV's, you can try to move the slide by hand and see if you can get the slide moving. With some RV's, there is a way, underneath the slide, to disconnect the motor to get the slide pushed in or out. Good luck with your project!- Mike
That was a fairly new unit you replaced. You also stated in a comment that in this installation that the hot wires are each 110. But your meter reads 120 volts and you are even saying 120 in the video. So maybe they are burning up those 208 volt water heaters with the 240? I’m not electrician. I came to watch this because I’m replacing an old one. The old ones are not volt specific and range between the 208-240. Must have been more expensive to manufacture so they went with specific voltage units? I’m just trying to figure out weather or not it’s safe to install the way you did with the 208 model on the supply of 240. Because the 208’s are readily available. Ty
In this case, I believe the units were failing prematurely because there is a separate water filter in this system that utilizes one of the water lines leading to the refrigerator. When this water line is shut off to change the filter, it's important to turn off the power going to the Tankless water heater. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the coils may go a few seconds without water and burn out. These water heaters are made to operate within a certain range, so slight differences in voltages should be OK for normal operations. Good luck with your project!- Mike
It could be too high of voltage going to your LED board, which could be from bad wiring or a bad circuit board. This would cause your LED board to fail prematurely. It could also be a bad batch of LED boards from a certain manufacturer. Good luck with your project!- Mike
You are releasing mold spores into the air when you scrub it with a toothbrush!! Mold spores are toxic and cause mold illness, which is no picnic, take it from me. You need to set up a containment area with plastic to seal up the bathroom so the mold spores don’t spread into the rest of the house and have HEPA fans in the bathroom. Also, you should be wearing some kind of a mask or ventilator, so you are not breathing in the spores that you are scrubbing out of the toilet tank.
Definitely! That's why I made sure to wet down the toilet tank walls with the vinegar solution before starting. That way, the scrubbed mold would fall down into the tank easier. Good advice on the PPE to wear and use. Thanks!- Mike
Yes, it is acceptable to use distilled white vinegar. It is recommended to use one part water to one part distilled white vinegar for your cleaning mixture. Good luck with your project!- Mike
Normal voltage at the fridge/freezer LED strip would be 5 to 12 volts DC. You may have an issue with your PCB (printed circuit board). You could have a failed resistor on your PCB that leads to your LED strip. I would check the wire leads going out of your PCB to your LED strip and see if that's the issue. Good luck with your project!- Mike
@@mikesdoityourself Thanks. I swapped LED's with a good one on from the fridge side. It light up and failed immediately. Now I have 2 LED's out haha. I ordered a new LED for the fridge. I found on another site that someone else had the same issue (31V at the freezer), GE came out and said something about bad wiring in the cabinet. I found the replacement harness that houses the LED connector and who knows what else. Now I just need to figure out how to replace it.. Thanks for the response!
Hello BP, you can try the wiring, but with a short to ground, or a broken/disconnected wire, you wouldn't get the voltage reading you're getting. I would start with replacing the circuit board, or you may have a power supply/transformer issue. Good luck!- Mike
So I did what you said in this video and my LED light bar turned on and immediately turned off. What would that be indicative of because I can’t find an answer online?
Bad LED light bar or printed circuit board that controls the light bar. A bad ground wire somewhere would do that, also. The door switch should be fine, but I would push it a few times and see if the light bar comes on. Good luck with your project!- Mike
On most systems that have backup or emergency heat, there is a brown wire that goes to E terminal. The white wire would go to the W terminal for primary Heat. In your case, I would try the white wire to the W terminal first. You can always change it up if it doesn't work at first. Good luck with your project!- Mike
