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Take out the filler bolt also after opening drain. This will facilitate faster drianing and the faster flow will hopefully push out any metal particles
I have been having the same problem after the fan broke and hit the radiator. Changed fan motor, fan and radiator. Did a pressure test holds 15 psi, did combustion test all good. What to do now. There is some oil around the oil cooler but no coolant. Seems like air in the system although I bled it many times. Could it be the oil cooler even though it holds pressure in pressure test when the car is switched off
if it has resistance going from the pcm to ground isn’t that a good thing? all wire has resistance so i’d like to think it doesn’t tell you much aside from it having continuity. wouldn’t you preform a voltage drop test or smth to check further?
Hey bud, I’m looking to delete my rear air system BUT I like the ride height when set to HIGH. Any recommendations on a conversion that will give me that HIGH look or higher
I don't see any data or information that premium is any cleaner than 87. The octane rating, or the pressure at which it detonates, is the only thing guaranteed.
Thanks for this video . I have a 2013 GX 460. I couldn't get a wire up the drain from the wheel well. I dropped the panel as you said NOTE - on the 460, there is some kind of sensor with two thin wires. There is enough slack to carefully drop the panel. I was surprised at how many 90 degree bends there were. No wonder I couldn't fish a wire I blew into the hose and confirmed that it was not blocked. Odd thing is I don't see any condensation dripping and it is humid.
I poured fuel in from a gas can and had to also improvise since I didn’t have the OEM funnel, since then every time I start I get the fuel fill inlet message, but no MIL and no drivability issues that I’ve noticed. Should I do the same procedure anyway?
we dont do them anymore...better off to get a new motor, better for the shop because they take to long to do...quick money is better...long term jobs take up bays
#1 selling vehicle in the worlds second largest car market is junk new? I bet you don't even own a truck. Probably never driven one. Wait wait wait. Your a NISSAN guy calling Ford junk? 😅😂 Oh man. That just made my day. NISSAN. 😅
I have a 2006 F150 w/ HD payload package 8ft bed ( bought new) with 125k miles and the frame was rusted to swiss cheese. I found a 2005 with 274k miles with a perfect frame but a bad cam. I paid 2700$ drove it home and swapped my good engine into the 2005 truck frame/body in my driveway. I did the timing job while it was on the ground and have had no issues. Its got 133k miles on it now. the only issues i noticed when doing it were the tensioner seals were bad but they hadnt caused any problems yet. I considered it a maintenance item at 125k miles. I bought the FORD timing kit and it went together flawlessly. i also changed the oil pump while i was in there. Its a good engine and sicne i paid the truck off in 2012 i figured it would be better than buying a newer truck. I still have the other truck and old engine for parts if I need them. I had to swap the dash and engine harness too since one big electrical plug was different from 05-06.
The fact that you have the skill to do that is awesome. Keep that truck!! The more I learn about newer vehicles, the more I love the old ones! I'm too chicken to do engine work, but I've been keeping my old Ram alive rather than buy new. The cost of anything else is insane these days, and my Dodge has proven itself for 30 years and 350k miles. :)
My issue was actually a loose worn out belt - had intermittent squeaking, but then no start a few times. Had to boost it. Checked Voltage running from alternator - only 13.2V - After new belt - 13.9V - much better! and squeaks are gone, tensioner and idler pulleys still fine too btw!
Yes it would be if you are driving said vehicle and have that information beforehand. When they come to our shop or are traded in like this one with the complaint of “bad alternator” it’s not drivable so we didn’t have it on the road to test. This was my first time running into that fuse being the culprit
A really informative video! Thank you for putting something like this together! Do you flip these? If so, do you have any that you are currently selling? Thanks again my friend!
Thumbs DOWN. It never ceases to amaze me how so many people make these videos and do such a poor job of conveying information about the vehicle. I watched the entire video, and not one time does he say the year of the vehicle. Not one time.
Well.. the GX470 was produced from 2003-2009 so you have a 7 year window to choose from. Since it matters that much to the year vs the genre it’s a 2004 in the video
There’s much more than this video shows. You also have to get in front of the wheel well liner to get to other screws. Also have new clips to replace the old ones, since they’re going to break from being old and brittle.
Thank you for the advice. Quick question: battery indicator is on. Went to autozone and got the battery and alternator tested. Battery is fine but the alternator is under performing….13.4 voltage. Literally about to buy and replace alternator in the morning. Could it still be the fuse you have mentioned? By the way, The driver’s side daytime amber light keeps going out. Thanks in advance
The owner of the company I work for finally got his brand new GMC Denali pick up about a year ago after waiting almost a year for it to be delivered. Now, with less than 8000 miles on the truck, it has a total engine failure due to lifter failure. What a joke GM is now.
Awesome video buddy! Thank u. I am literally going back and forth right now between a 06 gx470 , 06 sequoia sr5, and a 07 fj cruiser. Vehicle would be for roadtrips and occasional off the beaten path. Here in Maryland its hard to find because either the clean ones sell fast or ridiculous over priced or rusted out underneath. 😢 i liked the natural light 🍺 box in the back 😆 🤣 😂 😹 awesomeness 👌