eluminerRC is created to share my ideas and work with all of you passionate about RC. It's all about customising, upgrading and taking my RC stuff to the next level giving you insight into every step of that journey.
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Thanks for this, worked great but had some trouble getting the correct dye - locally available dye was not suited for synthetic materials, could be worth keeping an eye on if you cant source the Rit dye - if it doesnt say universal or specifically list Nylon it might not give the best result.
I think all the wiring rework was not necessary and actually adds a slight bit of weight. I've never had any issues using them exactly as they come from the factory. But its personal preference. Good idea with the vibration damping for sure. They are good motors although the price has been creeping up steadily as they've been becoming more known and popular. If they go much higher, I'll just start buying cobras instead.
Hey bro its Rudy....I still have Rusty and he's doing well. I would like to communicate with you but I've lost email contact to send pics. Please advise...still quite proud of this build. Would love to share with you
Nice placement of the escs so they are under the props and get lots of cooling. If you want to have your escs away fro. The motors and all that electromagnetic and static interference, use longer motor wires insyead of servo and power leads. Then cut a square in the heat shrink on yhe heatsink of the esc. Then get some heatsinks for computer graphics cards. Another possible fit may be heatsinks for computer motherboard northbridge and southbridge chips. Use heatsink adheasive thermal paste or thermal grease and zipties to hold them in place. The heatsinks don't have to be a perfect fit. A bit bigger or small (not too small) are fine This will improve the effectiveness of the manufacturers heatsinks. If you really know what you're doing you could completely remove and replace the factory heatsinks and replace them with better ones or even consider liquid cooling. Of course that would be better suited for large escs. The hardest thing would be keeping weight down. Liquid cooling isn't the lightest of options and definitely not for small drones.
Hey @eluminerRC, I want to buy these motors as well but for a fixed-wing model. Can you tell me how long the motor wires are and what bullet connectors I need for them? Thanks!
Did anybody try to follow this video and success? I feel like it missed some part, the wiring system seems didn't correct. This is the most confusing video I have watched
hi how are you . how can i connect a hexacopter to T10J FUTABA RADIO S2008SB OF THE RECIEVER, (, A DRONE APM, BUILT IN ) MAY SEND ME THE SETTINGS , ON HOW TO CONNECT FUTABA I AM TRYING TO CONTROL BUT IS NOT WORKING. YOUR ASSISTANCE WILL GREATLY APPRECIATED
So I'm hoping to start my first build soon, but I don't want to make the same mistakes others have by buying the wrong components. It seems that you and some of your followers are pretty knowledgeable about this stuff. My whole goal once it's finished is to be able to fly a 6 pack to my buddy's house about 6 miles away, fly it home, and to learn how to build and fly these things. I don't really care about the cost of the parts (within reason) but pretty much have an unlimited budget as I will be doing this over the next 6 months or year or so. I notice that on the motors there is usually 4 digit number and then another number that is assigned a kV rating, how do I translate that? what is a ridiculously bad ass motor for a 1000mm or 1500mm hex. Is there anyone out there that wants to kind of help me through the build?
I like the text labels for the measurements. What software did you use? I'm thinking of doing that on some of my videos. (I initially thought I'd just write on my white table top with a whiteboard marker...)
why is most videos with drones having naza ,i have seen many other sorts. can any one answer,,is these naza better, i have seen other drones howering better with other fly program then naza. whats the deal.
