I'm a retired aerospace engineer who is on a mission to build a car. One that is a close replica of a 1950's MG TF. I have never built anything like this before, but I strongly believe that it's all possible (DOABLE) if you just put your mind to it.
Join me in my successes and failures as I show you how I take on different challenges and when it all goes wrong, I will help you look for those often elusive “Silver Linings
Remember this " There's never enough time to do the job right, first time, but there's always enough time to do it again".
@@grahamlisburn4063thank you for your comment. I'm glad you found it helpful. You will still need to clear the error codes as simply replacing the sensor will not clear the code. You can use the iCarsoft code reader to clear the codes.
Metalastik bushes are also known as compliance bushes. Poly bushes are a lot less compliant than nitrile rubber, and if used widely will mean increased noise-vibration, and in most applications will wear out quite quickly. A good idea for competition cars where noise and vibration doesn't matter much, and suspension is regularly overhauled, but not a great idea for a road car.
@@battlebbot I totally accept what you say. The problem is where to buy good quality rubber bushings from these days. After the original manufacturers were forced to change the way rubber was made, the really good quality rubber just isn't available anymore so PolyBushes or similar from a reputable company seems to be a more acceptable option.
@@itsalldoable Poly bushes are fine if you are ok with the short service life and the possibility of increased NVH. Metalstik bushes are widely used in many other applications other than automotive, and it might be worth checking if anything good quality is available at all?
@@battlebbot I will see how the project pans out. Once it's on the road I may change the rear end completely. Besides, the PolyBushes are used extensively among the Triumph clubs, so time will tell.
I've said this many times regarding poly bushes. They can be great, but It would be a mistake to believe they are the holy grail and replace all bushes on the vehicle with them. Too many do that then find it has an adverse effect on the ride but no idea which ones ruined it. Very important to do them over time. That way you can deduce which ones are having a negative effect (if any) and then either revert back to rubber ones or a different composition. Its generally a no brainer with swing axles but droplinks for instance, can be troublesome.
@@Ralphs-House That's an interesting point of view. Most points of application are pivot points, so I would have thought that changing the spring rates would have more of a change than changing the rubber components for PolyBushes. But then again you can get a harder composition than the one I fitted. So there must be a difference 🤷♂️
My bike has the same kind of alarm and it seems to do the same kind of thing. Sometimes the alarm just seems to go off for no reason (I'm sure there is) and I don't know if it's linked to a low battery???
I think that I wasn't as conversant with the alarm when I made the video as I am now. You press the black button so the indicators flash twice, then the gray button and they flash 3 times. This disables the alarm so you can swap the battery in peace and quiet.
Nice video, nice work, I like the underfloor chassis brackets, but I would make them a bit wider, so you can use wide, 'penny' washers below those nylocs. Also, use red loctite in addition to the nylocs, to add extra 'stayputness'...
Hi Leon, I have copied you in on a FB post which shows more detail. I raised it as a material thickness question as I think going to 4mm for everything would be better. I will have a look to see if I can get a M12 penny washer into the existing bracket dimensions. Thank you for leaving a comment as always. Kind regards Paul
@@uroshavalon thank you, I always try to do my very best with all aspects of the project. So there will no doubt be a few more as this journey continues 🤔😁
I totally agree. But this is just a collection of RU-vid shorts that don't go out to me subscribers. So I just strung a few together for their benefit. A lot of people do consume content in portrait on their mobile phones. There will be a lot more of these as I have been making quite a few daily updates.
I don't use modern rubber bushes, because of the low quality of modern rubber, they only last a few years, instead, I only use superflex Polyurethane Bushes, never cheap Polyurethane Bushes
Glass beads work great for this. A commercial customer put an order for this machine to prep clutch plates in bulk. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gS16rdGXNww.html
Another important tip: The roof can't be put up while the dash board is lit up like a Christmas Tree...!! But a "SmartTop" module overrides the vehicle speed - So just need to remove the key and lock one's R172 three times ..!!
@@Trev5 yes I agree. Fortunately our roof was up when it failed. So we didn't risk putting it down. I didn't know that about the Smart top. Thank you for sharing this.👍
On this; I’ve got the esp and abs inoperable warning light currently. The roof is up currently but until I replace are you saying I shouldn’t operate the roof?
Great video on how this very common problem is fixed - And I'd go as far to say that any SLK owner who goes on Road Trips should carry at least one spare, as road side recovery would be able to fit this part.. 👍
@@Trev5 that is a great idea although I think the rear sensors are different and handed. Not 100% certain, just something in the back of my mind from when I was looking to buy my sensor. I did about 1200 miles on the faulty sensor so I wouldn't really view it as an emergency roadside repair. Although, you lose cruise control. Ours would work for about 50klm each day then failed again. Bit of a pain but still something we could copy with. Glad you found the video helpful and thank you for your comment.
@@dominicagbata5995 easily. It runs a much hotter flame than a conventional blow lamp which would be enough for what you need. It's a truly great torch and safe to use if you don't lock it on.
Very good point. However, I have a very old mig and some of the functions don't work. So I need to adjust and practice before hand. I may treat myself to a nice new R-Tech machine one day 🤷♂️
I've actually used some wood on my Vitesse! The mounting blocks for the oil cooler radiator are treated Oak, and the mounting for the 12 fuse box beside the battery is Mahogany!
I wasn't sure myself so I looked on the Canleys Classics website and that is what they called it in their detail parts list. But I agree with you on friction plate. Ah well it's done now 🤷🏼♂️
That's easy, my workshop is humidity controlled at maximum 50% it needs to be above that for rust to form. I have had bare mild steel sitting around for years and no rust on them at all. 👍
Yes, I had worked out a way of closing the bonnet halves with some latches that were kind of suitable. I now have a full set of the proper bonnet catches. The square tube will be a lot stronger if I can make it work with the proper catches.🤷♂️
😂 I like to do my bit for the environment. Mind you, all of us with classic cars are doing our bit as keeping old cars running is far greener than buying new ones 👍😎
THX for this Video, very Detailed and helpful . Will do the Job on this Weekend. Interesting I buy the ATE Sensor because of the good Brand Name. Price here in Germany is 46€ incl Shipment. Also got the Icarsoft. Next Job, after the Sensor on the Car is the R/H Xenon Bulb wich will be Tricky but the SW show me sometimes Fail and on an 10 Years old Car it will. However THX for the VID, the first here on YT wich is so Detailed.
Thank you David. RU-vid is probably my biggest challenge. I invest a huge amount of time and effort in the videos and I am now trying different editing techniques. Hopefully the future content will be better and more engaging 🤞
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284973803625?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=iSkTUatNSCe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=leOCCdh8Rfi&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY Make sure you get the charcoal filters and some pre filters so they last longer. 👍
Thank you for leaving me a comment. I'm really pleased you found it helpful. One thing that you should pay close attention to is the Dew Point on the day you decide to spray. I have seen a lot of paintwork spoilt because of water in their system.
Thank you for leaving me a comment. I'm pleased you found it interesting. I haven't heard from David for some time now. I'm trying to think about the bearings I have spare as I did buy 4 of one even though I only needed 2. They are TIMKEN bearings.
@@itsalldoable many thanks for your reply. It’s a job I would like to do, particularly on the N/S. So if you have 2 spares, available I’ll have them off you?
Thanks for making these. I saw you post on Facebook with a link today about your videos (and then couldn't find the post again, but did find your videos). Really helpful to watch - I'm about to do this on my GT6.
Thank you for leaving me a comment. I hope you find them useful. The Rotoflex rear end is certainly a bit unconventional and tricky to get it set up right. But "it's all doable" and you don't need any special tools as I show in the video. Feel free to ask me any questions if you get stuck. Kind regards Paul 👍
