Terry I was able to finally get the clock adjusted, and the time format set, and the calendar but getting the light bar set to ECO eluded me. As I am a day off on the calendar, I will get some more practice. I did all of the adjusting with the engine off, but with the bike electrical system on. When I made the electrical mod I hooked it straight to the battery.
When you mention the light bar do you mean the the light on the right that changes colour with your riding style. I.e green for economy or something else? If so, on my manual it's linked to the riding modes and doesn't work in sport and I think rain. You can change the lights to the revs although I've not done this myself.
Color me dumb, but I cannot get the time the line, or anything else on my 2022 NC-750XDCT, to adjust. Perhaps I need to disconnect the battery to return the meter to what it was from the factory. I was at one time able to set the time the light bar, but now I can't. Where things went wrong was when I disconnected the battery in order to tie in a wiring modification. I believe there is some nuance in the adjustment sequence my 78 year old mind is not picking up on.
Hi Harry leave that with me and I'll have a look over the weekend and come back to you. Can you adjust any other functions on the dash? Also, when you fitted the modification did you splice into the loom or just connect straight to the battery?
Hi Harry I'll reply to this in two parts and in two replies. The first is the Clock Set Procedure the second is some things to try if this doesn't work. Clock Set Procedure 1. Push and Hold the SEL and MODE buttons until the ADJUST menu is displayed. 2. Push the MODE you should then see the 12/24 hr Clock the mode use the up/down buttons to select what you prefer once happy press the MODE to move on to the date setting. 3. Use the up/down buttons to select year and MODE to move on to Month, repeat up/down plus MODE to move on to Day. After pressing MODE you move onto set TIME. 4.Use up/down to set hour then push MODE repeat for minutes after Pressing MODE to set the minutes the clock is set and moves onto the back-light settings. 5. Push and Hold the SEL and MODE button and you should return to normal. If you set the back light you will then need to cycle through the settings to the end of the menu.
second bit. There’s little in the manual regarding faults with the dash unit other than earth issues and how to remove it. If the dash is working fine other than the time setting check your fuses there’s a 10a clock fuse that may have blown. Mines a manual not DCT and the fuse is located on the left side of the fuse box, which is next to the battery. If you can set other functions on the dash, disconnecting the power may reboot the unit and reset things. Another potential issue could be the dash rear connector is not seated correctly or may need a clean. i.e. the signals from the buttons are not reaching the unit, also check the button connections and spray some switch cleaner on the connections. If the buttons are functioning fine then they are unlikely to be the cause but something to eliminate. The last thing I can come up with is a potential poor earth, although I would suspect you would experience other random issues with the dash but once again worth checking. The big electrical connector on the back of the unit is a bit of a faff to get to and requires removing the front cover but to get to that you need to remove other body work, hence I suggest you first double check the time setting sequence process - you need the ADJUST menu - second check the clock fuse, then disconnect the power - then clean the buttons and if that doesn’t work remove the front cover to check the rear connector, but as I said that's a bit of a pain. Please let me know once you get things sorted.
Hi Terry, I have a 2023 DCT. Due to illness I've only put about 4k miles on it and only in dry weather. About a month ago I noticed the mpg drop by about 5mpg. Did the usual checks - tire pressure, chain tension etc, all good. A mate mentioned valve clearances. Given the low mileage, I thought it unlikely but as the bike had had no service since the break in service, I thought I'd check and do the oil/filters etc. FYI it’s not a difficult job, just a bit fiddly. The inlet valves were noticeably tight on both cylinders but the exhaust valves were on the loose side. Put it all back together and the engine 'feels' much looser and the mpg is back to 80+ again. The engine also sounds more 'mechanical' which was a bit disconcerting at first but I guess the tight inlet valves were making it a bit too quiet? It's a cracking bike and thanks for your videos.
Pete, thanks for the info, really interesting. I'm quite shocked that the valve clearance needed adjusting so quickly. You might want to mention that to the dealer. If you do please keep me updated. Hopefully the illness is temporary 👍
@@terrysmith-NC750X I rarely use a dealer and bought the NC because of the ease of service. I've had dozens of bikes of all types since the early eighties and I've always done my own maintenance. My Royal Enfield Himalayan valves needed adjusting three times in a thousand miles! I got shot of that sharpish. I'm on the mend now I hope but thanks :-)
Just bought a NX750 DCT. I hadn't a clue what what those levels were on the ride home, but the bike was set up as you've just done. Is the USB a mini USB on the bike?? Thanks for the info.👍
Hi Dave, the usb is indeed the mini type. I believe its a type C. The same that the Samsung phones take if that helps. Hope your enjoy the new bike I've been pleased with mine.👍
I have this box. What I did was to buy the matching inner bag that goes inside. With that you probably won't be taking the box off all the much, but if you do, you can just remove the inner bag which will basically make the box weigh next to nothing. The locking mechanism for the opening of the top box itself is however frustrating and not intuitive.
Hi actual comfort is difficult to judge as I've got used to it. I would say the improvement is minor but it does raise the seat height a little, which helps me with knee angle slightly. But my knee isn't the best so any small help is appreciated. The cover does drain water away really well. So when others are wiping their seats down in the morning you don't have to, plus the air flows better so the seat is not so hot. But in UK this isn't a issue but will be a benefit in hot climates. In summary I'm pleased I have the cover but if your looking for improved comfort this is not the answer, for me anyway. A comfort seat or seat pad will probably be a better option. I'm sure others will disagree but that's my opinion.
Boxes like this is so cheap to make and they cost alot that is the problem as i se it the topbox there must cost 10 euro to make and sels for 200 euro or some i guess! Not to be negative only to let you se the greed from those who make those, the same goes for all mc accessories and some mc companies sell their bikes with almost no accessories so you must purchase it other places and the mc company get some money from this too it's a big bussiness this i think. Honda is one of them ! Why do Honda sell a 500 cc bike or some with not even a 12 V or USB outlet? who cost them 2 dollar to get on the bike from the factory? when they can get maybe 19 dollar for it if is the sold as accessories ?
Another great video Terry. I really appreciate your time in producing it, especially as I requested it 😊 It looks like I need to buy a torque wrench for starters. I’ll be watching the video again … several times … before taking on this task 😊
wrong on tip 8, coasting WILL improve fuel consumption - your ECU analysis is rubbish. Risk to rider control is another issue all together. Strange that you never mentioned changing or creating the engine performance. surely power, torque and engine braking control will effect mpg ?
Great review, thanks. Nice to see a blue one with the fogs. Ive just put a deposit down on the same one and cant wait for a delivery date. Ive opted for ALL the packs so like yours but top box and panniers as well. So many bad comments about the screen so I've been looking at the Puig touring screen, which seems to get good reviews. We'll, see. Anyway, after a year, how you getting on with the bike? 👍
Firstly welcome to the channel. I love the bike and I'm really pleased with it. In my opinion it's one of the best bikes out there for me and looks really good. To help I'll focus on the bits I'd improve on mine. 1st. I fitted a side stand foot to mine, with the luggage on the bike it feels a little unsteady on the side stand. I never had an issue but on certain ground it makes me nervous it will fall so I use the centre stand. 2nd getting the bike onto the centre stand is easily doable but fully loaded does take some effort. Other bigger bikes I've had seem easier. Not a real problem just an observation. 3rd the seat is not the best and could be improved its hard and needs improving. 4th Suspension was hard and crashy when new. Its got better with age and I don't intend changing it. Give it a few thousand miles to bed in before making any decisions. 5. Having the fuel filler under the seat is a pain. Something to tolerate. You have to get off to refill and strapping any thing to the back seat is doable but annoying having to remove and refit to get fuel in. 6. Power is fine although it's no race bike. It copes with everything and you can crack on particularly as it handles well, although at motorway speeds it feels like it needs a little more power. It has more than enough torque to still be fun fully loaded. Other than that it's perfect for me. I really like the bike its better than the sum of its parts and very easy to ride. Regarding the screen I had the taller Honda screen from new and I have no issues or complaints about it, but I suppose it depends how tall you are. I'm sure you'll be really pleased with yours. Let me know what you think once you get it.
Watched the two vlogs wrong way round lol, should have watched this one first , still very informative and always nice to know if you have this bike and need to eek out a tank until refuelling 👍🏻
Hi Dave would be good to get a few more subscribers another 1/2 a million would be good 🤣 but hopefully it helps someone thats the main reason I started this. 👍
Good test mate and very informative, my fuel economy being a BFB on an St1300 being progressive in my riding returns about 40 mpg , fully loaded panniers and top box returns about 35 , but with both I get a big smile 😃
I am 16 stones. I ride a 2017 Honda NC750X. Mine is a manual bike, with no luggage. I reset the trip every time I fill up. On a recent ride around the Cotswolds (2 weeks ago), doing 60 on main roads, and not breaking the speed limit on the 50mph country lanes the bike returned 104mpg. The previous tank saw me average 100.1mpg The most recent journey I did included a pillion (my 16 stone son) and we did 80 miles (Sunday morning just gone 02/06/24) and involved country A-roads. The bike returned 83mpg. The worst I have seen was 80mpg.
On the last camping trip , achieved 75 mpg. I’m 16 stones, I’m carrying 10kg of camping gear, the bike is fully loaded with extras, 2022 model. A mixture of motorways, A roads and Pennines hills.
very good analysis, thanks. But i have a request - can you give some tips on riding economically ? I have an identical bike ('23 reg manual) with the only luggage a givi 36 litre top box and can't get better than 85 mpg even in perfect conditions. do things like foot wind deflectors, hand guards, crash bars, fog lamps, screen deflectors, front mudguard extender make a difference ?
Hi I'm no expert on riding economically and I'm sure there are loads of key board warriors who will disagree with me. But I think that riding economically comes down to riding smoothly and planning ahead and avoid braking heavily. Rather than type a novel here I'll try to do a short video later and post it here to share my thoughts.
Riding smooth and avoid constant braking (as Terry mentioned) in as high a gear as possible (without it chugging like it's going to stall) will always be the main way to achieving highest MPG as you're reducing engine rpm. Studies have shown that the ideal economy speed for majority of vehicles is between 50-65mph. Anything more than that and the air resistance increases dramatically. I was getting 85mpg on average with mine. low 80s in town. high 80s/low 90s on A-Roads and motorway. If I decided to ride fast, you'd see the average would drop to 30s/40s! I found changing to a performance air filter and exhaust made the bike less economical in town (high 70s), but on a & b roads, and motorway, it would get low 90s. Also, your economy really depends on the kind of roads you ride. Town/motorway, in quiet or busy traffic etc. loads of factors out of your control that play a part.
Or I was just a bit more enthusiastic with the throttle without it fitted, who knows. I have a 4 day trip planned later this week so I'll see what mileage I get to gallon with all the luggage fitted and see if it differs from test. 😀
First time on your channel, new subscriber. Nice informative video! I've the same bike as yours, with Honda top case, but DCT model. Had to make some math's because in Portugal to consumption measure we use liters by 100km. So 91 milles per gallon is 3,1 liters by 100 km. The best I did till today, was 3,3 liters by 100 km, in Rain mode and country roads, always below 60 km/h. Regards from Portugal 👍🇵🇹
Very informative Terry As an Australian adventure bike rider I'd love to know how such a test would differ in my country with much higher temperatures and much longer distances. For example my daily work comute is 50 miles each way and our acceptable riding temperatures are between 30 & 40 degrees Celsius in the summertime. The bike doesn't need any time to warm up and traffic congestion is never an issue, therefore my economy tests are always over 100 miles to ensure a balanced spread of environmental and motorcycle conditions. Excellent video nonetheless.
Aerodynamic drag increases with the square of the velocity (i.e. double speed means 4x drag). The A road speed limit is rather low, hence the small differences in economy you recorded. It would be interesting to see the effect at motorway speeds, and during a longer run 50+ miles just to even out differences in traffic conditions and driving style between the runs. And yes, the rear pannier is behind the air wake of the rider, so its effect is negligible compared to the side panniers. But nevetheless it's an impressive economy with or without panniers!
Very good video and thank you for sharing; weight and riding styles as you say at the end are indeed equally important if not more. You mentioned the changing color of the dashboard LED and that you tried to keep it green - I seem to have unknowingly disabled mine and now i can't get it back it again, would you be able to share how that's done. Thank you again for the video and have a great new NC week 🥳
I'll see what I can find out for you. What year is yours? On mine the economy lights only work in standard mode, which it resets to each time the ignition is turned off/on.
@JulianPurcaru hi I've had a look at this. The handbook indicates that the colour mode can be turned off via the screen menus. Mine is a manual and doesn't seem to have this option. It may be available on the DCT. To access the menus hold the select and menu buttons together. Then use the select key to cycle thru the menu sections. To enter the menu press the mode button. You can then use select to change and mode to save and move onto next. I think you want the SP menu the colour off/on mode should be in this menu, but I'm unable to check this on my bike. If its not in the SP menu try the LINE menu. Sorry I can't be more help. If you don't have access to the user owner handbook you can download free online.
@terrysmith-NC750X Terry I appreciate your taking the time to reply and in such detail too. I am currently traveling on the NC taking the long way from Romania to Portugal and I have sporadic access to wifi along the route or I would have replied sooner to say thank you. I have not had a chance to try what you recommend but I will give it a try to see if it works and get back with feedback. Many thanks again and all the best to you 🫡
Yep nc750 is so economical but I avg high 70s low 80s the 90s was riding economically, on roads without traffic so not truly representative of real life. 👍
Hi Terry. Not being particularly mechanically gifted/confident would be grateful for a video on chain adjustment. I have the 2023 DCT version of our bike and don’t know this would be different to the manual version.
Hi Terry. Not being particularly mechanically gifted/confident would be grateful for a video on chain adjustment. I have the 2023 DCT version of our bike and don’t know this would be different to the manual version.
Well, the top box doesn't come with the backrests, they're sold separately, or as if available, for a very small discount, they're offered as accessory kit with the top box. The top box carrier, called Top Master is flimsy, and you should find a good welder, to weld some reinforcing gussets on the carriers arms bends, otherwise, it would break, sooner, or later. The danger consists in having a passenger who would rest his or her back against the top box, too confident. The whole thing may come off suddenly, while riding, with serious consequences. Also you did a serious mistake by not installing a SHAD metal plate, on the two arms of the carrier, and then install the top box plastic plate on top of that. As I said the two arms of the carrier are flimsy, they flex, and put a lot of stress on the plastic top box plate, which may crack, brake and causing the fall of the top box and probably the passenger, off the bike, while underway. Watch this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L4mDH7MBzIw.html. From minute 36, you would see how this Greek dude understood that SHAD top box carrier is too weak, and he reinforced it. Even if the work he did is not the best, you'll get the idea. I, personally went for a genuine aluminum Honda carrier, on which I mounted the SHAD SH58X top box, but, I don't have, and I don't like side cases. Not even the top case is not something I like, but it is easily removable, and I used it only when going to shopping and when I had a passenger.
Hi. With the shad top box arms installed it will be an easy fit for the three point pannier rails. They simply bolt onto the top box arms using the two side holes in the arms. On the left hand side the pannier rail bolts to the pillion footpeg, and on the right to the where the exhaust box fixes to the frame. When you buy the 3P mounting system you are supplied with 2 x brackets, which you won't need if you have the top box fitted. Hopefully that makes sense if not let me know and I'll forward some pictures.
A nice looking top.box and good that you can get two helmets inside , plus good colour coordination with the rest of the bike , the removal and refitting seems a faff though
@@chrisyates3598 the rider version is fully waterproof and I've proven this as I've been caught in some heavy downpours. If your chosen a bike sat nat nav do some research. Garmin is an alternative, although bike sat navs are expensive. If you want to reduce the costs considerably a car sat nav, they will put up with light showers and are half the price. If they fail you can replace them cheaply. Ultimately you pay your money and get what you pay for.
Terry. If you do make it up to Scotland's west coast, consider making the crossing over to Harris and Lewis, let me know and we'll be more than willing to put you and/or partner up for a night or two on the Isle of Harris. Mike
Mike that sounds brilliant, I am coming up to Scotland on a Land's End to JohnOGroats trip but it's a full on trip with a group. However, I'm also planning a trip up with the wife, and would be good to meet up, even if its just for lunch etc. Watch this space 👍 and thanks very much for the invite.
I had sent an email to SHAD asking them about the SH23, they claimed that offically it wasn't compatible, but that some NC users added a washer to the 3P system to get the clearance needed (2021+ models). I wanted the 23's for the top opening.
The adventure pack includes the fog lights, the protection bars the comfort pack includes the heated grips taller windscreen and the foot deflectors. There's no usb as standard but you can get a mini usb, like that used on Samsung phones fitted in the frunk. I had to buy an adapter to take a standard usb but the adapter is very cheap unlike the mini usb. This may be of helpful motorcycleconfigurator.honda.co.uk/bikes/adventure/nc750x/#/
Try www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/750-MOTO/NC/2023/NC750XAP/Frame/BODY-COVER-LUGGAGE-BOX-LUGGAGE-CARRIER/105374/F4420/2/44681 I believe the clips you want are No 19 Part Number 90116SP0003. If you're not based in UK search on Ebay they are used on other vehicles and not just Honda. You can get 10 for £4/£5. Hope it helps. In fact I've just order some as spares - they are tricky things that are easily dropped, bounce well and hard to find. 🙂
I’ve got the 3p with the Sh36s on the Tracer 700. Just fitted them and I just love how discrete they are. When I bought the bike it came with the Yamaha OEM scaffolding for their tiny semi soft panniers which were quite rubbish tbh. Couldn’t even fit my son’s pocket trumpet for the school run and putting them on/off was a chore. Key was the usual naff Yamaha key made of tin foil which bent easily. Yamaha OEM hard panniers cost and arm and a leg and required new scaffolding, not having that. So off came the Yamaha kit and on went the Shad. Cost about 1/3 of the Yamaha solution, gives me more space than I rightly need and when the boxes are off (80% of the time) it doesn’t look like I work for a window company. Love it.
Brill on mine they are slightly wider than the mirrors and handle bars so I'm conscious about that when filtering. But I agree the frames are Brill and the main reason I bought them 👍 with the panniers off they still look OK 😀
Many thanks for the video. My NC750X has problems with the battery...it drains the battery and I don't know exactly what's the problem it's a relatively new bike. Maybe it's a battery problem... don't really know...
It's hard to be certain what the cause is without doing some tests. How often do you use the bike? If the bike is being used regularly then the alarm and other system will draw on the battery and over time it will lose charge. You could try a trickle charger to maintain the battery. If your using it regularly, then check the charging system, with the bike running check the voltage across the battery terminals, from memory it should be circa 14.5v but look it up to be sure. I also think the NC750 shows the voltage on the dash. If the charging voltage is ok and your using it regularly then it may be time for a new battery. Other causes will require deeper investigation although you could try these, clean all the connectors they can corrode, check connectors are tight, if you've fitted aftermarket accessories temporarily disconnect them, they may be the issue. Other than that you'll need a multimeter to do some checks for a short circuit. If you can't find anything get it to the shop, to check whether, alternator, voltage regulator is ok. That's probably enough for now, but my advice is replace the battery first, they are relatively cheap and a DIY fix, plus a new battery will eliminate that as a problem. Hope this helps.
If you have a tracker or alarm fitted you need to put battery on a trickle charger, when the bike isn't being used regularly. I personally think the battery isn't up to the job. Mine always seems a bit tired. 21 reg Nc750.
hey Terry, I've had an issue with frunk access (lock latch issue) and wondered if you've though about fitting an emergency access cable in case there's a frunk problem? Would be great if you could fit one and show us (me) how to go about it. cheers...
