My name is Mudar, Real Estate Investor, Entrepreneur and I achieved financial freedom at 37 yrs of age. In this channel I will share with you my 20+ years of experience in real estate, so YOU TOO can achieve your goals. The channel will feature videos covering many topics in real estate including: Property Flips, Foreclosures, Auctions, Multi-Family Income Producing Properties, Rentals, Financing, becoming a Landlord, Maintenance and much more.
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PS. I am also an avid DIYer, so I will be sharing some cool projects, tips and hacks I've learned from many years flipping houses!
Like the price , but i'd replace that hitch with a ball-n-socket type to allow for twisting on uneven ground and replace those wheels/tires with something a lot beefier. Enjoyed the informative video, liked and subbed.
How do you square the guide? My saw cuts a good 90 when the Board is long enough to go across the entire back stop. But, if I need to cut a small piece, using only one side of the back stop, the cut is no longer square.
Two completely different products. The sanding sealer should be used on unfinished wood to seal the fibers for a smoother finish. This product looks like wax or vaseline, it fills the grain and becomes solid over time. Hope this helps.
Here is a link to my Pela 150 installation where I show how to measure for the window: Pella- How to install vinyl replacement window Pella 150 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-sDCmXNTiTXw.html
You mean the sashes? Either way is fine. Removing the sashes makes the window lighter, but you have to pay close attention to ensure it’s square and sashes operate smoothly. I’ve also been dealing with back problems, so these days I try to work around heavier loads.
Thank you. They were older wooden windows, some didn’t operate well and others were not lined up right and figured from a resale standpoint point the house will be worth more.
Wow, many videos I watch I get put off by the way the camera is angled and can't see anything. But you also explained it so well step by step that in fact I actually feel like taking all the ropes out of my sash windows and redoing them. Some of them have been painted over, some of them are super grimy. Just now I battled with one of the wheels where the rope came off the wheel and I was fighting up and down with the window in the middle of the night. Thanks ever so much mate.
Great video! This gives me the confidence to try window replacement in my house. Wondering if after your experience with both brands, next time would you choose the Pella or United if they are both available? Pella seems to be about 25% more expensive from what I’m seeing, worth the premium in your opinion?
Thank you. Very gd question. They are comparable, maybe the Pella edges the United, if I had to choose. I felt the Pella were a bit more sturdy. If you’re on a budget, you are fine with the United. Hope this helps.
I wish I had watched your video before I did my cabinet. My cabinet has so many flex on it after spraying it. I did not use the sand prep had no idea about it. I have tried sanding it and repainting with my sprayer and it still comes up with a lot of flex… any suggestions?
I wish I had watched your video before I did my cabinet. My cabinet has so many flex on it after spraying it. I did not use the sand prep had no idea about it. I have tried sanding it and repainting with my sprayer and it still comes up with a lot of flex… any suggestions?
Nice looking doors but if you have high quality painting equipment like Kremlin air mix paint guns and pumps, you’ll only need to sand the wood with with a final sanding with 220 sand paper and one coat of oil based paint if paying a color. If finishing with clear lacquer, you’ll need 220 sanding, one coat of sealer, 220 sanding then one coat of clear lacquer.
I have pella 250 replacement windows would this be the same process. I paid a “contractor” to do it and it’s a complete hack job with gaps and play everywhere because he did not shim and won’t fix his work states he never heard of using shims on a window
Yes, similar installation. Contractors are infamous with not using shims. They usually want to go in/out as quickly as possible. It’s important to have the window level and square. Good luck.
Good review, using wood to line the inside is a great idea. Protects and adds strength. I have a two wheel utility/garden/cart/trailer, not sure the brand, cant remember. Had and used the thing for over 35 years. Best money I've ever spent.
5/8-in x 8-ft Finished PVC Stop www.lowes.com/pd/Metrie-5-8-in-x-5-8-in-x-8-Ft-Unfinished-PVC-Stop/5003699139 These can be cut with a utility knife, so you can jamb it in and shave as necessary. I caulked after installation to seal all lines and gaps.
I only have 3 cabinets to paint, DIY built in shelves, so I'm not sure a sprayer is a reasonable purchase for us for such a small job. Are you able to suggest brush and/or roller to use? I'm sure it won't be as beautiful but trying to do the best work we can. Thanks!!!
Sure. Grab a super soft bristle paint brush for the rails and stiles and use a cabinet roller (the white thin ones) for the flat surfaces. I also recommend cabinet grade paint. I have also used floetrol in the past to extend drying time, which allows the paint to spread more evenly. You may find it necessary to sand b/n coats (220 or finer sand paper). Hope this helps.
Yes. Did you sand between paint applications? Liquid brings up the wood fibers. You may want to sand first (light sanding), apply filler and then paint/poly
I just bought and painted unfinished cabinets and don’t like the way they look after 2 coats. They weren’t sanded or anything. What steps can I take to have a better look after already painting. I wish I would have saw this video beforehand.
I just bought unfinished cabinets from lowes and immediately painted them. Do you think I need to go back and put on the sanding sealer or I can just go ahead and seal them with the poly?
Great. now I want to install a drawer inside the cabinet. but these inset hinges are making the door block the channels to come out. Any other type of hinge that is used for inset doot but also opens the door flush with carcus?
@@TrueGritDevelopment Thanks for the Reply. I found it when I searched. But the hinge I'm looking for is for Inset type door and this one says overlay type. I don't think they make such concealed hinges.
@@TrueGritDevelopment this does say inset on the product title but reviewers say it's for half overlay and not for inset door. So once installed using a spacer to act as inset, it does not clear the space for the drawer movement. I think I'll have to give up on it.
You are correct about the S strap. This was a replacement, no new plumbing was installed. In this case there was a vent pipe stack connected to the drain that went to roof.
Also wondering about your opinion on whether to take down the cabinet itself to strip paint or if you'd somehow leave them up to strip them while still on the wall
Glad you found the video helpful. I would leave the cabinets on the wall and strip them that way. I have to say I’ve had bad experiences with stripping paint so I’d be curious to know how yours turn out.
I’ve had mixed experiences with primer and found out that if you’re using good paint and the cabinets are sanded/unfinished, you will be fine without primer. It’s all about the prep work. It will take you hours to prep and a fraction of the time to actually paint, so be patient. There is no harm in using primer, if you feel the surfaces are not rough enough to accept the paint. As for the grain filler, I also have mixed feelings about it. Like I said, 3 coats would be better. I am experimenting with joint compound as a grain filler and I will be making a video on that too. My plan is to dilute the compound, so it self levels and fills all the grain. It will have to be painted right away of course. Good luck
installing new sliding doors is always good, but I want to share with you my experience, I live in Orlando Florida, I contacted the Masterslide company with the problem of my sliding doors (if you ask, I will share the contacts) they replaced the rollers, installed a track cover and a new handle with a lock. Now my door is like new and I'm as happy as a child! And most importantly, I thought that I saved more than two thousand dollars! Just because repairs are cheaper!))) so think before ordering new ones. This is not advertising, this is my case.
Totally agree with you. In this case the grids were falling apart between the glass. I got a quote to replace the two slides for over 3k and it would take 3-4 weeks! Good point you make though, always check for replacement and repairs. Thanks for watching 👊🏼
So, it’s optional. The idea is to hide any exterior gaps between the top of the window and the wall framing. You will find it’s very difficult to fit the window with the skirt because usually the gap is too small. What I ended up doing for some windows is cut out the one side of the trim, so you end up with an L shaped trim. With that, once the window is installed, you can fit one side and tilt in the other. I hope this isn’t too confusing. I do plan to make another video explaining that trim piece at some point.
Thanks. Anither question? Why aren't the sides of the frame original 2x frame? I am reducing the size of original window with 2x's should i go with another style windo, like new construction? I miss old hardware stores where you could talk in person over a sketch. The are so many variables. Appreciate your time.
Not sure I follow. You mean the window jamb is smaller than the framing? Usually the replacement window will detail whether it’s appropriate for 2x4 framing.
@TrueGritDevelopment it's a weird situation. All the windows are nice. The one in the kitchen looks like it came out of a 1970 trailer. I planned to add 2x4 to the bottom of the rough opening. There is no trim it will be like rough opening. 2x.
I dont know the proper terms. It will be a rectangular square opening. All flat and square. 2x4 rectangle. Im a skilled woodworker, machinist, and mechanical design engineer. But i am baffled on how to replace my crap window. Such an odd situation. I wish i could post pictures
Odd camera angles and quick camera movements made me too dizzy to watch past 8:00. I will look elsewhere for an instruction video that doesn't give me vertigo.
You need to block out your videos with a story board and at least the outline of a script. Better to show different camera angles with editing than physically jumping around and rapidly moving the camera and turning it on it's side.
That’s awesome. No issues at all with mine. The protective finish is key to extend the durability. These are unfinished cabinets, so the paint sticks better than previously finished cabinets. If you’re refinishing old cabinets, make sure you prime them good before applying paint for better adhesion. I did not think the paint. Good luck 👍🏼
@@TrueGritDevelopment thanks for the info! We are doing the unfinished stock cabinets from Home Depot. I’ve used that polycrylic on other stuff and it seems to work well.
It’s going to look great! BTW I’ve recently used the emerald paint from SW and it’s amazing, but soo expensive. Worth it since you’re saving on labor. Goes on super smooth.
I can only get at my GE back vent by removing the screw holding the back vent in place. The is no additional steel assembly surrounding the back vent hole to give me extra room to work. If I knock out the right side vent cap(the side I want to vent from), it may give me extra working space. How do I remove the right side knock out? Do I simply use a hammer and some sort of chisel and knock it in, or is there more to it?
This model was discontinued around 2021 for a cost reduced model. The fence bracket is proud of the table top. To lubricate, only use PTFE. Saw dust will not stick to it and it doesn't stick to wood, which would mess up any finish.
