We are a small little hobby shop in rural Nova Scotia, Canada. Building hot rods, one at a time, usually starting with very little. Watch along as we fabricate, and build some really special projects. We usually have a few project on the go at one time so check back often.
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Are you in love with our 1929 Hot Rod as much as we are? We love it soooo much we had t-shirts made. They are double sided sizes m to 4XL (limited supply). If you are interested, email Derek at coldstreamrodshop@gmail.com and make arrangements with him. You can pick them up or we can ship. T-shirts $30 CAD (plus shipping).
Camera lady's roadster coming along nicely Derek. The gentleman who purchased the Sedan sounds like a fellow Resto - Rod fan, like I myself was. My ears picked up when he mentioned Knoxville Tennessee, I sold my Resto Rod '34 Model Y to a guy who had been in the UK working for the U.S. military in the early 1980's. It was his last trip here and he spent two years trying to talk me into selling the car. It arrived in the States in 1985, along with my friends Ford Pop ( often referred to as a '48 Anglia). I lost touch with him several years ago sadly. Anyways, thanks for another enjoyable video, see you on the next update. Geof 👍🇬🇧
@@pamdunn8454 Greg is interested, we just need to know how to connect. Would you send me your contact info by email to derekfraser64@gmail.com or by DM on Instagram?
Nice progress. Do you have patterns in mind for the floors or just something nice and simple. Pleased for you that the steering shaft cleared and didn’t cause to many problems. Sounds like the sedan body has gone to a good home. Take care both best wishes.
At the moment I don't know specifics but as it's few projects out for this customer. I think he's staying with the halibrand QC with buggy spring and wishbones in the back. In the front it will be an I beam and split wishbones as well. That's about all I know at this stage.
Good to see the camera lady's roadster being worked on Derek. My Brookville roadster came pre-assembled but I have reinforced inner frame work including a dash shelf . It's handy for putting stuff on as I don't have door pockets. Also to the consternation of some, mine runs a High Performance Chevy 350 & a B&M transmission that hasn't "blown up" ........yet . Regards from the UK 🇬🇧👍
@@geofo60 there's probably more 32 Fords powered by small block Chevy's than any other engine. I'm sure the first one went in 1955 the first year they came out. I like my Fords but it's a lot easier to put a SBC in a 32 than a Ford.
@@coldstreamrodshop it's hard to believe there's still some people either keeping the Ford or putting in a Ford because 90 percent are putting those quick to BLOW cheap to build Chevy's 👎👎👎🗑️🗑️🎯
I would think the camera lady is over the moon that her roadster is getting some attention. I’ve never heard of anyone welding the fire wall in place until you mentioned it. Got to have a cowl vent. Nice job. Take care both, best wishes.
Does Jerry have a website, or RU-vid Channel Derek? Also, once you weld up the firewall to the Cowl, I assume you will never be able to replace that firewall to cowl seal?
@@martyscncgarage5275 No sorry he doesn't. I'm hoping he'll stay in touch and keep me updated with his project. It would be nice to see it on the road.
@@coldstreamrodshop would have been nice to see what he did to his firewall as you described. I'd often thought of welding the firewall to the cowl. Still not sure why Ford did this.
@@martyscncgarage5275 only in 1932. I think it was a new spin on the assembly line. I don't think Ford expected us to be driving them 70-80+ mph either. Sorry for the confusion with Jerry, it's Kugelkomponents on Instagram. They built a 32 roadster that went to the AMBR show last year. He welded and reinforced the cowl on it. Not sure if they have a RU-vid channel.
@@coldstreamrodshop Im very new to the 32 Ford. I understand there is adjustability to help align doors etc. I've still got to get back on my Roadster, Brookville body on a modified original 32 frame. I fought it a lot during mock up to align new Rootlieb butterfly hood sides, grill shell and cowl, along with what I considered to be excessive space between the body and fuel tank. (We've chatted about this before. I'll be getting back to it after my COE is done
@@martyscncgarage5275 I only welded my firewall in once I had door alignment on my frame. Yes that's right the firewall to cowl gasket is in for good once the firewall is welded in. I think you can still make some door adjustments with shims if needed.
Hi Derek I‘m going through the same humidity and rust issue with my 32 5w. I cleaned the rust using a sponge soaked in Phosphor Acid, it works perfectly and removes all the surface rust. Just make sure to wipe off the acid with a humid cloth and dry immediately. I hope this info saves you a lot of time!
Did you try moving the left exhaust manafold to the right side and do the right manifold to the left side of the engine. I remember seeing a caddy flat head engine in a model a that way many years ago.
if your making headers with the collector at the front of the engine - ( can you put the stock cast iron manifolds on the engine backwards) reversed - that would put the exhaust at the front "where you need it"
@@pamdunn8454 Thanks for the suggestion. Someone also else suggested it. I thought it was a good idea so I went out and tried it an hour ago. It will work however the manifold outlets stick out too far on the sides and I won't be able to close the hood. If I weren't running a full hood with sides it would work.
@@pamdunn8454 Thanks for the suggestion. Someone also else suggested it. I thought it was a good idea so I went out and tried it an hour ago. It will work however the manifold outlets stick out too far on the sides and I won't be able to close the hood. If I weren't running a full hood with sides it would work.
We normally only get a few days of 30 plus degrees and 90-100 % humidity. It started at the end of June and just finally let up 2 days ago. We're definitely thinking about an AC or heat pump now.
I use a 8K, 115 volt window unit, on DRY setting which keeps moisture low enough. It doesn't keep up with Florida heat but adds $20-$30 a month to the bill. I didn't feel it justified the cost of a mini-split.@coldstreamrodshop
why don't you put the kind of steering in there that comes out the side of the body panel on the driver's side and drops down and and the steering rod runs along the outside of the body I don't know what that steering's called but that would work.
Looks like you need several sets of hands. As jackpledger says backwards would work for the headers save a lot of time as well. Lots of smashing projects and I’ve said it before your shops are superb. Take care both.
@@erniehoffer1784 That was my first choice. I had a set of the ram horns however I can't use them as I designed the engine mounts on the side where the dump straight down. Additionally they stick out too far on the side and I can't use hood sides without putting a bubble in the side of the hood.
Well done on another project. You must get a warm satisfied feeling when they leave your workplace. Looking forwards to more from yourselves. Take care both. Nights are drawing in already around 2200. Cheers Tim.
@@timferriss905 sounds like you're a little further north than us. Sunset is around 2100 now, usually dark around 2130. It's one hot and humid summer here.
Awesome work on getting this one ready. Great to see you doing this. It would be neat to see you do more in depth work on your videos. Keep going looking forward to more on the roadsters
@@keithkrause3386 Hi, we'll get back to more in depth detail in our videos in September like we use to do. It takes a lot of time to do and we wanted to take a break this summer. We're still working but just doing updates on the work for now. There's lots more to come.
I was looking for this on Thursday night. Glad I’ve found it now. If you had centred the wheels in the fenders first then it’s a snow ball effect with prop shaft and other things like mounting brackets. And like you sat Derek it might be easier or better to re shape the fenders. It’s looking good all the same. I think it deserves shiny paint though. Cheers Tim.
@@timferriss905 Hi Tim, sorry we couldn't get it out on Thursday night. I think re shaping the fenders is the best option. After talking to a few friends this is quite a common issue for a lot of cars from the 40s and 50s when putting larger wheels than stock. In a lot of cases they have to unhook the lower shock mounts, drop the rear, put the wheels on, raise the rear end and attach the lower shocks. I asked them what happens if you have a flat, they said that's what you have AAA or CAA towing for!
The only thing wrong with this car is that it"s not headed to my garage. I had a really nice 41 Plymouth coupe that I sold over 50 years ago and i still kick myself in the butt for selling it,
@@andreamills5852 yes it is, that's what I use to move them around in the garage. Not for highway use. The owner has a set of steel rims small hubcaps and wide whitewalls he's putting on.
I'm about half way through the video today and it occurs to me how much work you have done on this car from start to finish. What a tremendous amount of time and effort to get this car to this stage. Not sure what you charge for your time but I bet you have over two month's working on this car. Not sure what is next but I am sure that the owner should be proud and happy with the effort. This car was not a typical ford or chevy and I really like that aspect. Even though I have Ford and Chevy's. Anyway great job and thanks for the video's.
@@joegarage6132 thanks for the kind words. Yes many hours into. If it were a Ford it most likely would be less hours as so much has been done by others and information shared. Lots of aftermarket stuff for Fords and Chevs. A lot less for Mopars so there's more to figure out.
@@richardhoutman5261these are very tall cars. It looks a little higher than it is. Right now we have about 5" ground clearance. It has lowered spindles in the front but the springs that came with it seem very stiff so he may have to change those out later. It's one of those things that you have to try and then adjust once all the weight is on the car. If this were a 32-34 Ford I'd get it right first time. Unfortunately most people don't build several 40 Plymouth's so it's a bit of trial and changes.
@@marknelson1712 on the 32 there's a nut on the side of the A pillar and there's several nuts inside the windshield frame holding it together. I think on the 33-34s it's tack welded on the side of A pillar. You would have to break the tack welds on the A pillar but otherwise it unbolts.
We haven't really thought of it. We just put what we can on RU-vid. There's lots there. Check out Lazze Metal shaping and Make it Kustom on RU-vid too. They have great metal shaping videos.
One question, i have the same tranny t5 from a camaro with 3.8 engine but i dont know if this tranny can bear a 350 engine, i want to intall on thd tranny a 350 or a lt1 engine but searching those engind have yo much torque, what do you know about that ??
@@ricardojimenez9628 this transmission can only handle around 250 HP maybe a little more. The crate motor we have is rated at 385 HP so we won't ever be able to put full throttle.
I have a 1940 Stinson aircraft and I'm looking forward to the day I get to do a photo shoot with a 1940 auto. There is a guy on our airport with a 1940 Chrysler hot rod that may get together with me someday.
@@timferriss905 I'll get some pictures of two of them and add it to an upcoming video. One of the 32 coupes and a 32 roadster pickup have made progress as well as one of the 34 chassis which has a sedan body on it now
