Hey there, we're Michael and Wendy Erb and welcome to our channel The Erb Stead. This channel was created to document and share our experiences with raising 4 kids to be good human beings, while running our business, learning how to garden, making things in our workshop and other diy projects. Wendy has been home full time since 2014 and Michael has since 2019 and together we've been building a pretty cool life. It's our hope to inspire and help others to realize they're able to build the life they desire too.
Also, you can find us on the Socials via the links below.
This video is not truthful. Just downright deceitful. You show yourself unboxing a new compressor and then show a heavily used old generation compressor. That you probably bought second hand and got burned on. How do I know. Well I have both an old and a new and they work fine. The one that you show that has a cover and has a grey oil tank is the old unit. New ones don’t have the cover and the oil tank is black. The new ones come with an oil catch can. This machine is and old unit that has been not maintained. Oil in the air tank is from not changing the moisture filter and not checking the oil levels. So if you’re going to be deceitful and lie at least do your homework. And I don’t think anyone will believe that the compressor that you show is new. Crazy!
Install an automatic bottom drain. Some of your complaints are not realistic. I’ve ran, installed, and maintained a number of different brands, types and sizes of compressors. They all produce water in the air. They all need to be drained, they all require regular maintenance. Even that Quincy you want will require weekly maintenance.
A year later mine still works like a charm. My pressure switch would not shut off, but i found that it was just set too high for the cut-off pressure. A little adjustment is all it took. Add an automatic drain valve to the bottom of the tank; electronic or pneumatic controlled and you never have to drain the tank. Make sure to run the compressor long enough to let the oil heat up; so that the moisture can evaporate and move to the air tank. If you are only running it for 5 minutes to fill up your tires; you will have issues.
Is all the water in that tub from just this draining?! Holy crap! Just buy the smallest screw without a tank. I finally bought my dream compressor, a QRS10 with a refrigerator dryer.
Yeah, so any thought I had of buying one of these just flew out the window. What a PITA and what a mess. No way this thing is going to last a decade or more like any decent piston compressor will.
I've had mine for 10 months and it is pretty much dead. I called Eastwood and it took them 3 days to call back and they said they would have to send it to engineering to figure out. They mentioned a replacement unit. I had to go buy a couple of different air compressors to keep my shop running. I'll be looking for a different solution than Eastwood.
I initially loved this compressor because of how quiet it was but now I have major buyers remorse after the water/oil mixing issues ive had with it. My power switch broke too. Will never buy an eastwood compressor again honestly what a piece of shit.
How often did you drain the water from your old compressor? That needs to be done regularly, too. Many people put automatically operating drain valves on the bottom of their tanks. Too bad they're not standard equipment.
I’ve heard people having having the same experiences you had . I personally have owned one of these for almost 2 years now. The only thing I’ve ever replaced is the switch, and they actually sent me a new one with the machine and recommended that I swap them out. As far as the water collection goes, you were talking about I have almost no water in my oil whatsoever. I do run my air compressor a lot I’m thinking, maybe the heat burns most of the water vapor off although I can’t be sure, I’ve had no oil coming out near the pressure switch. One thing I do put on all of my compressors and maybe this helps I put an automatic drain assembly on all of my air compressors that will actually drain any water condensate out of the bottom every 45min to an hour. Maybe that’s one of the key factors that’s helping me have a good experience anyway, I wish you guys the best. Hope you have good luck too.
That duty cycle you’ve got is definitely the right one for this machine. Rotary units have a 100% duty cycle. His old I/R recip is a 60% duty cycle machine. This makes a difference in how they’re applied.
Buy a vane compressor. Hydrovane. They run 1800 rpm not 5000-6000 like a screw compressor. Quiet, won't fill your shop with smoke and fire like this POS
Thanks for the review. A suggestion: replace the bag with a five gallon bucket and Gamma Seal lid. The lid allows the bucket to be screwed on and off easily. The PatriotDIY channel on RU-vid has a video showing how to do this, Stumpy Nubs has at least two or three. If a five gallon bucket seems too small, I’m sure you could work out how to use something larger, perhaps seven gal or ten - pretty sure they use the same size lids - or go to something even larger. Best wishes!
Well it's a pain, but for $2k, if that's all you can afford... Seems tolerable. There isn't anything new available for $3-5k. Everything decent seems to be $8k minimum nowadays.
That's why I assemble (a lot) cyclones sideways or even upside down. I'm not saying it's easy it's still pretty difficult but it keeps you from going nuts.
Oh God not a half hour a month! How would I live with myself. I might have to give up watching random RU-vid videos for 30 min in exchange for a super quiet compressor.
I was gonna buy one but after reading all the negative reviews on this I just can't. I'll get a standard 60 gallon 2 stage 5 hp single phase. I was looking at the DeWalt at my Fleet Farm. Model DXCMV5076055 for $1699.99. Anyone have any personal use on this model they want to share? Also I'm 60 years old, have been a mechanic all my life, was a radar technician in the Air Force and am currently an Electro-Mechanical Technician. I have always called these "cherry pickers" as well as most everyone I know. We call them engine hoists too! But thanks for this video. People need to see this. I have just written Eastwood to see if they have fixed these issues as well.
Not good for medium to high humidity areas. Maybe Arizona would be good. I drain once a month, depending on usage. Oil refill topoffs adds to cost of operation. Like the quiet operation.
I don’t plan on using a lot of air all the time. I think the smartest thing to do is to buy the quietest 30 gallon compressor. I’m going to start with two units and hook them up in parallel pneumatically, and maybe go with three units if I need a lot of cfm. I can replace, move, and multiply if need be. I was thinking about purchasing this scroll compressor, but reliability is the most important factor in my purchase.
So the supposed fix for the switch issue is a drain bottle, lol. I would just attach a longer tube and let it drain into a milk jug. Then cap and recycle as needed. As for draining, it can be VERY easy. 1. Get an auto drain valve for the bottom Mechanical or electrical, your choice. Run the tube into your pan or an old milk jug. 2. For the oil, just get a longer drain tube that runs into the pail itself. 3. Topping off the oil, OMG at the procedure. People got lazy with the regular compressor changing their oil once every 5-10 years.
Originally from New Jersey here and instinctively refer to it as a cherry picker but will adjust the term to engine hoist depending on who I'm talking to. I keep hearing negative things about the QST 30/60 and probably will go with a standard 60 gallon compressor that is louder and much cheaper but more maintenance-free and less worries. Thanks for sharing this info! 👍
I’ve always drained my tanks daily. I don’t see how that process takes 30 minutes but then again it did take you a long time to jab that Tupperware in there. Find a better fitting drain pan for the bottom and extend that clear hose to reach it and this job would take less than a minute.
if i remember right that compressor runs hot i think if you upgrade your cooling fan, or mount a water cooled heat sink on the cooling radiator it will stop the condensation issue and it will last longer to.
Awesome! The marketing folks at eastwood are good. I was tempted to buy one, but the abundance of paid promos made me suspect. You confirmed my suspicions. Im running a 1959 (model year) Gardner Denver that runs like a dream. Thanks for the vid. Cheers
In our shop we 3D printed a new lip so we wouldnt have the issue of the bag falling off we work with alot of nylon powder for 3d printing and the bag would fall off and powder would go everywhere shutting down our department. but after our fix no more issues.
There is NO problem with this compressor. This is how scrolls with oil tanks work. You must DRAIN everyday before turning on. If your high humidity location, It will have more water then low humidity location. If it does not get nice and very hot just like a car engine, it will have water. This is one of the best for size price and sound your going to find. They need to put in the intrusions to drain daily. If not spend $$$ and get one that take the oil out of the water for you. There are some great ones for $6K.
I read all eastwood instructions prior to buying it and they never discussed removing the cap and draining any water. Only like all compressors drain water from the airtank itself. The amount of oil this compressor spits out in the airtank, pressure reliefs is ridiculous and really not what I would call acceptable. Even for a 2500 usd machine.
@@kwakernaak78 I know what you mean. In my case we have low humidity, but scroll compressors are notorious for moisture. The only way to solve it is you drain or you can also install as you probably won’t know the water separator. It’s expensive but it will remove the moisture. You would need to jump to about $5000 or more for the next level of compressor that would alleviate this problem so what they’re offering here is half the price if you’re willing to drain.
