Anyone know how much it needs? Would putting to much cause stress on the compressors? I've opened one up that had half full and another almost all full. The all full one had trouble venting gallery but I don't know if that's a separate issue.
Thanks for commenting and watching - I always fill mine up and make sure to replace or clean the filter inside too. I have had no issues since this practice so I would assume you could do the same. I am about to change mine again, and will try an experiment and let you know . Drive safely, best regards Rene
Thank you for watching - and commenting - I am so glad you could use the video - mine is still working and running nicely. Dive safely, best regards Rene
Hi there and thanks for watching and commenting. No you don’t have to - but make sure not to destroy the gasket when you place the gasket in its place. The head fits perfectly on the seat and with the dowels in place. You tighten the bolts the way I describe it and in that specific order. If you need the manual I can send it to you. Hope that helps, sail safely, best regards Rene.
Thanks for the quick response sir , I was told by the local mechanics in my area indian head was needed even though it never said so in the manual , I was also told to put Loctite on the head studs/bolts from my understanding all you need is engine oil right? And thank you again sir for the response Working on a VX110 for the first time and your video helps a lot
No you are good - only Oil on studs - no Loctite - Blue nor red - none. - clean the studs - put one droplet of engine oil on the rincles - same oil so you have the right measure measurements for the torch wrench. Hope that helps - best regards Rene
Actually a very good question, there could be numerous reasons, however the most common issues are : when you turn sharp right or left at slow speed you will hear a grinding or clunky noise from the front, this will disappear when you go straight. It’s the ball bearing inside the CV boot which is faulty. Typically happens when the cv boot has been defect and/or the grease inside has left the boot and do not cover and lubricate anymore. Corrosion and debris will over time deteriorate the bearing and will need replacement. If the defective CV boot is discovered in time, you can probably save the cv joint and bearing. The link in the CVjoint can be worn as well creating same sound. Hope that helps a little. I have a video on how to change the CV boot as well, it’s cheaper, however changing the shaft is easier and less dirty. Here is the cv boot change ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-N1pmW1_O2FM.htmlsi=y0-MZIP7-ESK-Ri7 Thanks for watching and Commenting, I hope this will help a little. Drive safely, best regards Rene
I have one of these apart but had to go overseas in a hurry for family reasons and unfortunately no longer have the timing chain marked. Any tips on TDC and realigning that might be different from other engines? its the 2007 MR1 I believe. Excellent video - this will be a huge help. Thank you for sharing
Disconnect battery, pull spark plugs, remove plastic driveshaft cover. Place a wooden stick down into #1 cylinder (FORWARD-most cylinder), grab drive coupling and rotate counterclockwise (when looking from stern to bow) to get #1 piston to top dead center of compression stroke. With that set, feed timing chain onto crank and keep it pulled up snug against crank with bungee cord (or rope,etc)... Set your camshafts in place with timing dots facing up (the camshaft lobes FARTHEST FROM the timing chain, when looking from stern to bow, will face outward from each other at about 10 and 2 o'clock). Gently lift the bow end of each camshaft to slip under/engage chain, ensuring there's no slack in the chain both between the cams, and(!), and the starboard side from EXHAUST cam to crankshaft (the side opposite the tensioner). With cam covers torqued and tensioner installed, rotate engine using the drive coupler (again, counterclockwise) through 2 full revolutions stopping back at #1 piston top dead center, then verify the timing dots are facing up again and the 2 cam lobes are facing away from each other at 10 and 2 again. If they aren't, take tensioner back out, cam covers off and adjust the cam positions (all while #1 is at top dead center). If you encounter any resistance while hand-rotating the engine, STOP, do not force the rotation. Take the cams back off and reset #1 to top dead center of compression stroke (you had probably set top dead center of intake/exhaust stroke by mistake).
Thank you guys - exactly like that a and if you want the manual for the engine sent to you by email I will be happy to provide you with a PDF of that manual. It is well explained in there and there are pretty ok illustrations as well Sail safely and enjoy you jet skis. Best regards Rene
Realized after I wrote my initial post (as I was doing it from memory, my apologies) I errored in which cylinder to reference as #1. Have edited the post with the corrections in CAPS. As a tip, put the exhaust cam in before the intake cam (leave the center cam cap off and the other 2 loose so you can slide it very slightly aft when you go to put the intake cam in). Again, ensure no chain slack between crank and exhaust cam. It's a bit tricky to get the intake cam in to get it's dot lined up. You may find a small amount of slack in the chain between the cams and the dot looks like it's 1 cam tooth off. Before you panic, put all the cam caps on and stick your finger in the tensioner hole and push on the cam guide and see if both the slack between the cams goes away and the dot now lines up (if not, try again with getting the intake cam on the right tooth.
@@patx7720this is awesome. I knew everything in the first post already but my brother in law has had issues getting it to line up (im still overseas)... I'm sure these tips will get us all lined up. Thanks so much.
Thanks for commenting and watching. The module is located in the back of the battery case just like shown on video. It is held right with the plug itself and then some plastic clips that needs to be released. Then you tip the TCM module outward from the top and it should come out easy. The wires might be a little in the way but just take your time and be careful not to break the wires. Hope that helps best regards Rene Drive safely.
Your video is really great Rene, congrats. At first I was wanting to remove my compressor totally to rebuild the piston and swap a new air dryer. I just ordered a new air dryer, still waiting for it. After watching your video, a new idea come to my mind, now I think I can replace the air dryer without the need to remove the compressor, what do you think? I need only to disconnect two air lines on the air dryer cap, unscrew one bolt and rotate the air dryer to remove it, and then install the new one. What do you think? I am driving the car I think for more than a year with the orange light on the dashboard and I wanting to make the swap as soon as it arrives, just to avoid the compressor to burn out. My truck is a 2009 LR3, thanks a lot my friend
Thank you so much for watching and commenting. I am so happy you could use the content of the video. I must say that I am about to change the desiccant again in the near future on mine. It an easy fix and works wonders on the suspension or at least the warning lights associated with this problem, depending on if you are in cold or hot and humid environments. Changing the desiccant is not a complete science but it will save you the money on a compressor at a later stage and could be worth it. It also relatively small amount of time invested and you will enjoy it for some years again. Drive safely, best regards Rene
my 2006 L320 has started with the 'normal ride height only' message - might try this before i consider swapping out the compressor....really good video thanks for uploading - where would i find the kit in the UK?....
Thank you for watching and commenting, I am glad you could use it. And yes your compressor could be suffocating and not be able to lift and produce enough air within the timeframe to rise the car and then it simply times out. I bought the kit easy on Amazon, and I believe you can order it on Amazon UK as well. Less than 20 GBP Drive safely, best regards Rene
I would never have done that grinding with the bracket on the bike. You take it off and use a spindle sander to grind it down. It some out smoother and you don't have potential debris left behind in the primary. That was pretty stupid.
Thanks for watching and commenting. The bracket is needed to be in place since that is, or was the mold that comes with the new transmission. It’s a part of the spare parts when it arrives and referred to in the manual, which also comes with it, so it’s not a good idea to let it out and grind without that bracket. It actually prevents you from destroying your engine block. Yes I could have used a sander instead, but I would have had a lot more and smaller debris in the engine which I would not have been able to get out, and that could have damaged the bearings as well, plus this would have made me still lying on the floor today trying to sand it. It takes too much time. The bike is driving absolutely perfect and have done that for the last 3 years now. I can only recommend baker transmissions for this kit. It has done exactly what I wanted and have not failed at all yet. You are entitled to your opinion, I don’t think it was stupid to do and I actually like the result. I did use a sander initially, but man it was too much time and work. This works fine. Drive safely out there, take care. Best regards Rene
Thank you for commenting and sharing your thoughts and experiences. To answer and help you I would need to have a little more knowledge information about your fault on the vehicle. Do you have a fault code ? Did you check your stoplights as well? If not it might be a good idea to check the TCM module behind the battery for water intrusion, that can cause a huge mess and hard to find. Here is a video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YjsPP70pNXg.htmlsi=73Tg6PytqEN5S3Dl I hope that will help you along, Drive safely, best regards Rene
Good video. I have the exact same ski (down to the exact same aftermarket seat cover!) Have watched SEVERAL videos on changing the oil in this engine and so many of them don't talk about the importance of running the ski before you measure the oil level and before you pump it out. It's good to watch the operation performed by someone who understands it and what the proper steps are. Thanks.
Thank you for watching and commenting. I am glad you find this video helpful, and very happy for your feedback. Thanks again. Sail safely, best regards Rene
Thank you for watching and commenting. To answer your question I have never had the PO170, but I have had something similar that could relate in similar direction (PO171) Most likely your engine is running too rich or too lean on the mixture of air/fuel ration for combustion. The computer meters this mixture as a result of inputs from several sensors, where one of them is the MAF sensor. The maf sensor when you disconnect it wil show an immediate result of the engine running rough and then stall completely after a few seconds. This means it works. Quick test. I don’t know how many miles you have on the car and don’t know which engine setup we are talking about, however judging by the year you informed me about I would be more drawn towards the O2 sensors- they should be changed every 75000 miles approximately. They live a hard life, and when they get slow in absorbing temperature differences they will send a misleading message to you computer, which in turn will give you a wrong air/fuel ratio. Here is a video on O2 sensor change on my Landy. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6YJnHv3kSSM.htmlsi=xle3adjCuM9BtJJG May I ask if you have the check engine light on ? It could have been a temporary fault as well. A good idea is to clean the throttle body downstream from the MAF sensor. It’s relatively easy done. You can buy auto throttle body cleaner at the nearest auto parts store for 5-10$ and then clean it. Remember not to use the same cleaner for the MAF sensor since they will get damaged by the operation. For the MAF sensor you buy MAF sensor cleaning spray - two different cleaners for two different jobs. I hope this will get you on the right track to get the car back in normal condition again. Drive safely, best regards Rene
@@techtips101 Thank you for the information you provided. I currently have 51000 miles on this Range Rover. The check engine light came on as me an my family were driving to Arizona from Texas. The vehicle ran well with no issues, no delay in acceleration, no rough starts. Vehicle runs well other than the check engine light. I will clean the throttle body and clean the MAF Sensor and see if the code comes back up. Thank you and keep up the great videos. John
You are more than welcome. 🙏 be aware a faulty fuel injector could also be the culprit in this case. But I would try the others first. Good luck 👍 and let us hear how things went. Drive safely, best regards Rene
I’ve heard cheap aftermarket axles and cvs are a huge gamble. How is this holding up? Quiet at high speeds? What brand exactly did you buy? Thanks! This makes my axle job seem less complicated
Thank you for watching and commenting. Yes the car runs and drive smoothly and silent - also at high speeds. It been doing quite well with no issues. However the it’s the rubber cv boot that’s the weak point on all of these axels. I drive a lot of off road in water and when I rupture a boot, the deterioration goes quickly and the bearings inside basically destroys themselves as the grease disappears. This axle has been doing the job since I replaced it and is still driving strong, do not know if it is a coincidence, however it does. I bought it on Amazon and will include the link for you here : Bodeman - Front Left/Driver Side... www.amazon.com/dp/B07VJ9L38V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share It says it is currently unavailable, but there is so many other ones on Amazon. This was 72$. When you remove the axle from the differential it will need a firm quick pull in order to release itself, other than that it’s a straight forward operation that only requires some elbow grease. Hope that helps - have fun and drive safely. Best regards Rene.
Thank you - and thanks for commenting - no I actually haven’t checked that, but it sounds very much like it could be - or at least in the process of being bad and needs replacement - when I come back next time I will have a look at it and probably make a video on the subject 👍👍☀️☀️ thanks 🙏 Drive safely Best regards Rene
Super - if you clean the throttle body as well then you will increase your gas mileage as well. Normally when the MAF is dirty the throttle body will be covered in oil grease as well. Drive safely, best regards Rene.
Thank for commenting and watching, no I am unable to do that unfortunately, but that could be a good idea for the next Video. Thank you for asking. Drive safely Best regards Rene
@@techtips101 duno how far have you gone with this cars,but im having a issue i have disco 2 with sai. Secondary air injection,so as remedy i want to install a none sai ecu,but i see a vin number so my question its if the VIN ints on the ecm or the bcu,whats are the pressure when your swap ecu`s.
Oh I am sorry that I wouldn’t happen to know - I guess it’s always worth a try, however it could be an expensive experience to play with. Drive safely, best regards Rene
Thanks for commenting and watching. Did you check the brake pads, there is an electric sensor installed on front left brake pads and rear right brake pads- if they are worn it throws the brake light immediately. You can removed it to see if the light goes away then you know you need to change brake pads. The warning lights can also be in connection with wrong or faulty brake lights - make sure you replace them all with the correct amperage since the car is sensitive to that. I think this will get you lands back with no faults. Drive safely, best regards Rene
Thanks for watching and commenting. Yes however depending on your production year it will look differently in the engine compartment, but it should sit on the side of the oilsump. However and this is important many of the never ones don’t have a thermostat - mine for instance do not have one. So don’t look too much after it since it might not be there. Sail safely, best regards Rene
Hi there and thanks for commenting and watching the video. I bought both on Amazon and here is the link and brand for the bearings: Detroit Axle - 2 Front Wheel Bearing Hubs for 05-16 Land Rover LR3 LR4, 06-13 Range Rover Sport, 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013, 2 Wheel Bearing Hubs Assembly Replacement Visit the Detroit Axle Store www.amazon.com/dp/B00HHGSWO6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details here is the description and link to disc: Callahan Front Brake Kit For Land Rover LR3 Range Rover Drilled and Slotted Brake Rotors and Ceramic Brake Pads. link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PMP1CK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I hope that helps :) drive safely best regards Rene
Thank you for watching and commenting. To reset the computer, you will have to disconnect. the battery, and when disconnected, you will have to short circuit the two wires, to get rid of any lead current in the system. Then wait for 30 seconds before connection the lead wires to the battery again. this will cause the computer to reset, and you will see the fuel used per gallon will be starting up as new, and after a couple of days with normal driving fast and slow, the computer will have reset your driving patterns and reflect a new set of parameters. I might actually make a video for you on that the coming week. drive safely best regards Rene
All your car repair videos are so relaxed and orderly. Thanks for making it all so clear and understandable, Rene. I really enjoy watching them. Cheers.
Thank you so much - i am trying to make them easily understandable, but sometimes the challenges you face can be hard to visualize on a video. Thank you for commenting and drive safely out there. Best regards Rene
Thank you for watching and commenting. Yes it isn’t much, however I did adjust the cable and it would work approximately 4-6 mths. And after a while, it get annoying to adjust it all the time - so this fix was the solution. It’s now been 3 years, with this and it still runs perfectly and cut off the auto throttle easily- so for that simple reason I will let it drive like that. Hope someone out there will have the benefit of this little trick. Drive safely, best regards Rene
This is a 2.7 LR3 but If you have a 3.0 LR4 they are known for a sticky Compressor valve. There is a replacement kit for it "Compressor Repair Valve - LR061463"
Hello I have a 2006 lr3 when I drive it it won’t let me go over 30/35 mph then it seem like it loses power. When I let off gas it picks but up power but as it gets to the 30/35 mph it does it again. The only light come on is the triangle but goes off as I let off gas. Please help.
Thank you for watching and commenting - your car is going into limb mode and the reason could be many. I had mine doing that due to a partially clogged fuel injector. A bad spark plug can cause the same issue plus a hole lot of other possibilities. I could also be your MAF sensor, however that normally will cause the engine to run rough and stop. You can test that by unplugging it. Does it change gears ? Or only stay in up til 3 speed ? It could also be your brake switch or stop light bulbs. In other words the car is trying to tell you that it needs service but can limb you home. Here are a few videos that might clear this for you. It is adviceable to put on an OBD reader at any auto store to see if the computer has some stored error codes that would lead you to the right fault. Like P0174 or 172. Theee can be numerous. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FTOrs-VGJn4.htmlsi=TQV8iekJvUhnQut9 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1LgTKDXbD2Y.htmlsi=JcVXvBNBzCt8HV6M ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5LU1GAfsjJo.htmlsi=Q5-nwHfP6mTh6GRF ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5LU1GAfsjJo.htmlsi=Q5-nwHfP6mTh6GRF ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eDvd2oZLPK4.htmlsi=Uc0bdZbyXwohiUwJ ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-occgGZOo7wQ.htmlsi=KQx_nI_z20z7CV8e ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ewiYlW5bPAk.htmlsi=17FMsRJPG4Idyrm0 I hope this will get you on your track to solve the problem. Drive safely - best regards Rene
If the car starts and runs but then cuts out and after waiting 10-20 mins starts and runs then dies, The fault is crank position sensor once it is changed the car will run fine. Sensor has a wire inside that is broken and after use it heats up and connection is broken. I had that issue on my 2000 Disco 2 and cost a lot, with tow, mechanics etc.
Thanks a lot - great heads up. I might even make a video on that subject and part. A lot of people out there can find this very useful and utilize the experience. Drive safely, best regards Rene
I just had to replace an injector and I had to get a used one (long story!) So I'm thinking this may have to be replaced in the not too distant future. After watching this, I'm thinking that I can probably do this myself. But the keyword is "probably." I think I will go ahead and get a couple of new injectors just to have on hand. Thank you for doing this video!!!
Thank you - and thanks for watching and commenting. Yes you can do this yourself easily. I have made a different video only on the fuel injector cleaning which may make it easier to see. The tools you can buy on Amazon for less than 15$. And then you just have to make sure you don’t destroy the orings. If you do make sure you get the real ones to replace them since they have to withstand the fuel and not disintegrate, so normal orings won’t work they get eaten up by the fuel. Here is the link to the video : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eDvd2oZLPK4.htmlsi=vFo1_XuZRo8ZLjOn Drive carefully, best regards Rene
Thanks ao much, mine is having the exact same issues as yours. I bought it a few years ago from my brother, he had a similar issue and removed the head, it worked fine for a while and now it's happening to me. I think I'll try what you did first. Thanks for the very informative video!
Thank you for watching and commenting. If you are lucky this will take care of your problem. However if it is worse then it might be necessary to change the cylinder head to solve the problem. You can also back flush it to see if there is an ingestion problem from a seashell in the tubing. I have a very recent video on cylinder head assembly with the same issue here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WfFiVE-oODw.htmlsi=p2i2TkUvg7kPZg7g I hope this will get you on the right path to success. Sail safely, best regards Rene.
Mine has those electrical symptoms sometimes but only when I put a obd reader but I turn truck off and turn back on it’s back to normal I wonder if that’s my problem, thanks for content very helpful
Thank you for watching. and commenting - yes that could very easily be your problem. You could eventually try to disconnect the switch and see if this has any effect on the problem or change to the problem and it will give you the answer. have a look at your stoplights as well since the combination could confuse the circuits a bit, make sure you have the correct amperage on all your stoplights. I hope that helps, the switch is about 35 use on amazon so its worth changing. drive safely, best regards Rene
Hi Rene, I just had my mechanic in Melbourne Fl. install the Ultima 6 speed on my 2006 Softail Deluxe and I also have the 4th gear neutral light issue. He’s aware of your fix and is working on the spare shift drum he has to grind it down as you did. I also had him install the Koso HD-05 tank gage and I had some questions about it I was hoping you could answer. If I replace the battery will the gage lose all the info besides the time? My gage also does not show 1st.gear nor the N for neutral. Does yours? .My bike now will do 70mph @2500rpm Thank you for the awesome video, hope to hear back from you soon.
Thank you for watching and commenting, and I am sorry for the rather late reply. Since I only have Neutral as indication on my bike I don't have the indications you are writing about. The switch itself is just a contractor and on 4th speed it will generate contact indicating it's in neutral, but actually in 4th. That was the fix I basically grinded away on the video. your gear indicator must have a counter to either lightbulb where it has to make the contact, it could be a little more extravagant and skill required exercise. If you take the battery off it should not loose all info, you should be ok. if you are in doubt you can replace (parallel mount a small batt even a 9volt pocket one will hold you info on the computer) but you should be fine. Be aware you need to do a new calibration of your speedometer since it most likely will misread, since it is calibrated to a 5 speed with fewer teeth than the 6 speed. (32 to 39 teeth). A kit can solve this easily, and I have made a video for you on that too. It is basically plug and play. video link: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Q5WGmvipb5Q.html I hope that will help you and get you driving, I really enjoy mine and it runs very well. drive safely, best regards Rene
Ja det er det samme i Danmark, der må de heller ikke anvende Xbow, men kun almindelig bue, mon ikke det ændrer sig i fremtiden. god fornøjelse og god jakt, stor jakthilsen fra Rene
Hi bro thanks for your videos, bro i had lr3 make missfire in morning in cylinder 6 and 3 i check it out in scanner live data counter missfire it missfire for 1 minutes, iam thinking to clean this spark and check the gap how much in mm should be this gap what's the best gap clearance you recommend, thanks
Thank you for watching and commenting, I use a lower gap than usual, but 0.35 should work fine. The coils can play you a puzzle in this respect as well as the fuel injectors. there are two videos on this subject too. Beware of the coils, NO china products they are not good for this vehicle, will include the vids here for you : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FTOrs-VGJn4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-5LU1GAfsjJo.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eDvd2oZLPK4.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ujUhk7UaVLk.html I hope this will get you in the right direction and fix your problem. have a wonderful, day and drive safely, best regards Rene buymeacoffee.com/?via=ReneClausen
My '06 is now running great. I've shot the parts cannon at the arms, half-shafts, rear drive shaft, a used rear differential, all new brakes rotors, etc.etc. Did have some stubborn electrical faults, my alternator (original ,134K mi.) was putting out average of 13.9 amps, which everyone kept telling me was fine. But I installed a new aftermarket alternator and the faults went away! Now I'm getting 14.2 amps or so). So these systems really are as sensitive as others claim. There is one other issue; On every start up, I get a transmission fault that goes away immediately. My Gap tool shows an ignition solenoid fault. One way to know this is real is by being able to remove the key while still in drive. Was talking to my son about it and he read me a notice from LR about this and a recall...Wonder if they will still honor that recall. It's worth a phone call to find out. But must admit to some concern about letting a dealer open her up. There are a lot of monkeys out there calling themselves mechanics and I've had some bad experiences with dealers before. Also, took a chance on one of those plastic/vinyl dash covers. Bought it from some place in Texas for around $100. It fits and looks great. My dash was as bad as yours. Just follow the directions for prep and gluing...The provided silicone really did work! Looks like your clear coat has failed like mine as well on the hood and roof. Got the materials to redo it but ran out of good weather. All in all, I'm into this rig for about $4k in parts and $3k in the purchase last May. If I can get another 50 k miles without anything major it will have been a win. These 4.4L engines are a perfect match for this system in my opinion. We just got a foot of snow up here in MA. and after a long drive I noticed the LR does best in the standard paved road setting. The icy road setting seems to almost have too much traction, at least it seems this way for me. Anyway, still learning how to properly drive her. Take care Rene' hope you had good holidays.
Thank you soo much for sharing your experiences, I am happy to help where I can. I will try this vinyl dash cover and see if I can improve the dash. Happy holidays, drive safely up there and best regards Rene
