I love cars, tinkering is fun cause I like to see how things work, I like to help people out sometimes getting your car fixed can turn into a major cost and it's not always something that really needs to be done alot of the time it's the shop just trying to make money. I am just like all the other DIY people out there that want to save money and have fun doing it. I also feel like I am giving back to others when I can help them out with there vehicles that need worked on and save them big money.I like to learn new things but I learned at a young age to work smarter not harder. I am still learning everyday and there are others out there that are way smarter then me that I love learning from. Thanks for watching my channel and I hope my videos can help you out with something on your awesome project or repair.
@adairjanney7109 if it is not going in well put some grease on the seal on the inside and on the outside of the seal. The use a socket that is big enough and deep enough to go over the crank make sure the socket is the just smaller then the outer lip of the seal. Then lightly tap the socket with a hammer to put the seal in place. The grease will help the seal go in and it will also keep the seal from tearing.
@@allenpreece2100 Yeah ive been trying something similar to that though not so lightly, but not too hard, it just goes on a bit and gets stuck and then I have to pull it back off.... ive cleaned out the old seal which seemed like dry rot it was a pain the ass to clean out, i dont see any remainder in there but maybe I need to clean it more
@adairjanney7109 is there a sleeve in there. The sleeve is an aftermarket repair that some shops put in to make sure the seal stays in place. But it is not required. But the sleeves are made out of very thin tin like metal and the get damaged easily and if that is the case then your new seal won't go in tell you pull the sleeve out.
@@allenpreece2100 I mean I dont see anything that I would think is this sleeve, the gasket came with a new spring in it and the old spring came out when I ripped the gasket out but I mean to ge tthis gasket out took forever, I had to scrap it out and it was not easy, so thats why I thought maybe I need to clean it more, but do you think if by eye and a flashlight I dont see anything it should be good or should I find another way to clean it even more maybe light grinder type thing
@adairjanney7109 I would not grind on it at all. If you damage the housing you can cause a permanent leak. Can you feel wear the seal should go? Does it feel clean and smooth? Are you sure you got the right size seal? Just making sure it is not to big. You should be able to start the seal just by pushing it in slightly with your hands and they tip it in tell it is flush with the housing all the way around.
You saved me!!! I had the same problem and not having a manual for my 99 I had no idea what IOD was. Pulled it after watching you and there it was. Blown! Replaced it and now everything is great! Thanks again...
Thanks. Had same problem. The book calls the part a cam sensor but the parts store call it a coil so that was frustrating going back an forth to the store. I disconnected every sensor one by one until I found the one that was disconnected that made the problem go away. That's the bad sensor which happens to be the coil.😊
cool i thought the waterpump was the larger one but thats for i guess 1.4 turbo,thought i got the wrong part.thank you for this video it helped out with the size difference.
My man! I've been tearing my hair out over this exact issue on the 98 I just picked up, and no owner's manual of course. Soon as I watched this video I ran back out to the truck and checked that fuse and sure enough, she was blown. Swapped it out and now all that stuff works again! Thanks man!
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How are you? Your content is fantastic, but your video optimization section needs some updates. It's currently scoring only 25.4 out of 100, which explains why your videos aren't reaching as many people and why you're not getting many subscribers, views, likes, watch time, and comments. I believe optimizing your RU-vid channel can help make your dreams come true. I'm eagerly awaiting your response.
Appreciate the info 🙏🏼 I was able todo it with just removing the back panel and side panel. The hardest part about this job is definitely the plastic ring. I used a flat head to undo the locks on the plastic ring and then turned it counterclockwise. That loosened it and then just popped it off with the screw driver.
Most of the front crankshaft pulleys or harmonic balancers I've encountered protrude into the engine and have a seal seat on them. So if it still leaks when replaced try putting the item back and check again. Good luck!
ecu fault, purple and white wire to cell phone charger 5v 1 amp to live idle control ,preferrably to a switch. Replace ECU. probably in need of reflow (solder joints). truck will start with power to 5v rail.
JTEC is the company that made the PCM computer module also I had changed that distributor wire named pickup coil sensor but turns out The Pcm computer was bad when I pulled truck to the mechanic shop. I saw another video which advised if there is no check Engine Light and power voltage and ground is ok at the PCM wires it could be bad. I even changed distributor cap, rotor ,ignition coil,Pickup coil sensor. Hope this helps someone.
i need your help, I have the same o2 connector as in your video, 4 wire, 2x whites for elements and black/gray for signal. I been getting 0141 and 0138 which points to the downstream o2, and i replaced it and still getting hi volts b1s2. i checked the voltage on the truck side, as in your video, and im getting 13v for the elements and 4v for the signal. my upstream sensor is working fine and no other CEL codes have returned its always 0138 and/or 0141
@@allenpreece2100 yes both new and old sensor ohm was good 5-6ohms and both created voltage when heated up. the brand is ebay, i know its not scream quality but the upstream is also ebay brand and it works as it should
@@allenpreece2100 i did first i use a volt meter and i got 13v for the elements side and 4v from the signal wire on the truck side of connector . and today i used my power probe and i got ground on 3 wires with key on and 13v with engine running. the only wire i did not get a reading from either off or running was orange w/black it was neither hot or ground that same wire on the sensor side is black wire
Okay. So both codes lead to your o2 sensor one is for the circuit voltage to high 0138. And the other is for the o2 temp reading. I know you know this but we need to figure out why you are getting 13v to that one wire. That seems high. As for the temp code. Do you have a heat gun? If so take the o2 sensor out and heat up the tip of the sensor with the heat gun and as it is heating up check the ohms reading with your meter and see if that changes at all. I will look in my manual to see what circuit that harness comes off of to see if we can pin point the high voltage issue.
