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Thanks for the feedback! I actually haven't posted a number of videos because of this. The issue is that the quickjack doesn't lift the car that high, so filming underneath gets cumbersome. Haven't gotten around to finding a good solution for this yet.
Awesome! I have one on my vert, but it's rusty, too. Question: How are you jacking? Did you just drive up on the boards to raise from the front crossmember?
75W-140 is for M variable Lock diffs, which first appeared in E46. Prior to this, BMW specified Castrol 75W-90. I ran this for the last 2k miles with no issues at all.
@@CarGuy1 This is incorrect! For all Z3 and Z3M which have LSD, 75W-140 is required! Please do not provide these false information to other BMW drivers, as you/they will crush their diff with the wrong oil.
Nice. Just did this job on my M roadster last weekend. I also did the fuel filter while I was under there and that thing was NASTY dirty. It was an oem filter so i bet it hadnt been changed since the factory 70k mi ago.
Thanks for pointing that out! It was on the list, but somehow I missed it. I am willing to bet that it has never been replaced on my car either and I'm at 100k.
@@CarGuy1 looking forward to seeing you replace the detents! Mine are going bad too. Same with the clutch line. Apparently switching to a stainless clutch line really changes the feel.
PO had the clutch replaced. It is a bit odd that they didn't do the fluid at the same time. Unfortunately they didn't replace the detents either. Next item on the menu is either the oil pump but and baffle or randy Forbes kit.
have done this job 4 times now on the same caliper, and every time i put a new seal in it it broke while compressing it. So i bought a reman caliper and its leaking from the piston seal as well :')
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At the 2:40 mark, is that a basic 3 arm gear puller you are using? Is there anything to between the end of control arm and the pull to protect the end of the arm at all?
@@dominik1307 Don't panic. LOL. Is your battery charged? Also, try disconnecting the 2 switches (the ones that open/close the screen). I remember mine doing something finnicky.
I don't believe it was just the ribbon. It's obvious that someone opened this thing up before for some reason and they likely damaged the ribbon during disassembly. I don't see how it would fail on it's own. The secondary fail was the gear on the electric motor. It was nowhere to be found.
@@CarGuy1 thank you for the response. I am dealing with a screen which will not power on and trying to determine if it is the screen itself or the nav dvd player. Do you know if there is a way to bench test the screen with a multi meter or aux power supply?
@@michaelgeer9371 You'll need to give it an input signal. Does yours flip up and stays black? Side note - make sure that your battery isn't drained. My car sat for a while. When I put the "refurbished" unit back in, the screen would flip up and remain blank. It almost drove me crazy. I then tried to put the convertible top down and it wouldn't move. That's when I charged the battery and everything came back to life.
@@CarGuy1 no issues with the screen movement and just installed a new battery last weekend, and put the top down with no issue. Found the wiring diagram for the 18 pin plug, it is receiving power and all grounds, and had voltage at the r,g,b pins which leads me to believe the video card in the dvd player is functioning. I got the Sharp video screen uninstalled today. Going to order a screen and hope it is not an issue with the circuit board. As a contingency, did you keep the board from your extra unit and would you be willing to sell it, it that is found to be my issue?
@@michaelgeer9371 I kept the board. let me know if you end up needing it. It's the original board from the E85, since I put in the one from E83 in. They did upgrade the E83 unit. You can readily tell because it doesn't have all of the capacitors that you see on the E85 unit.
Man! Thanks for this video. For me it came a little too late because I bought my 08’ Z4M last year with the same problem. Checked in the forums and everyone said nothing but original won’t. And they are super expensive on eBay. So I ended up putting a CarPlay in the unit, but sacrificing the open/close mechanism
That's one of the main reasons I wanted to keep the original. I don't like that screen being open all the time. I saw another solution which utilized an older 6" garmin unit, but that was AFTER I already completed this project. Eventually, I might just swap out the dash for the one without NAV and install a double DIN unit.
@@CarGuy1 thanks! Eventually at some point I’ll follow your steps. Definitely would like to keep it original. Z4 units are too expensive. Awesome what you did!
If you move your arm out of the way then we can see what you're doing instead of just seeing your arm. The same applies to your back & the back of your head.
Best of luck with the new project. One thing that might be worth looking into is the crack in the bracket where the upper strut brace mounts to the passenger side strut tower.
Thanks. I did catch that. I had it checked out already. It was likely a result of the fender bender on that side. The strut tower itself is in correct position and alignment numbers are well within spec.
Z3's are tough my Z3M been hit by two semis, a 3500 ram and Hyundai car😅. First semi ripped my front bumper off was parked... second one I was in sitting waiting on the light to change second it turned green semi behind me when full send but I had 10 cars in front of me and he was drugged out of his mind, 3500 ram was parking next to me at work and trying to not hit the curb in the monster 3500 4 mega car 4x4 (6x6 if you count the rears as 4 not 2😂) turned his wheel back in a way the front tire turned in the middle on my rear pushing it sideways so hard it taco'ed my sub frame flattening me tire, then the last one popped a hole in my bumper with a toe eye bolt. But 20 years of ownership you have that happen. Few kids at Walmart slamming doors in to it leaving vertical dent lines. It'll be okay they are tough cars
This is incorrect. You're supposed to seat the caliper piston seal on the piston in the proper final position prior to inserting the piston into the caliper. You should also lube the internal seal so the piston slides in effortlessly. And third, you should not lube the outside of the piston seal as all it will do is attract dust and grime which could lead to premature wear and failure of the seal.
So there wasn't a check engine light to begin with. The car took exceedingly long time to warm up. I hooked it up to ISTA and saw the issues with thermostat.
Good way to rip apart your chassis. Look at the contact patch from the seat rail. Now you have a contact area of a few mm, plus you have created a leaver with that extension as the chassis as the fulcrum. Not to mention what grade bolts are those extensions? So much wrong here on a component that is integral to your safety in the event of a crash.
CarGuy, I need some help. Is this a vinyl or cloth top? Video is too dark to tell. I recently bought a z4 for a project. Top is in good condition structurally, but has stains on drive side. Baseball size and elongated. Previous owner stated he thinks its from hydraulic fluid from when the top motor was removed. But I've tried cleaning it with dawn, a brush, water, and even a carpet shampooer. It's still there. Beginning to think it's not hydraulic fluid. Has more of a glue consistency. It's dry, hard, but in there good. What can I do?
Feels nice and planted. If you haven't noticed - this video is sped up. I had it out on a proper road course (that is considered one of the fastest tracks in US - Nelson Ledges) and had no issues. In fact, I logged similar lap times as in my E90 M3. I'm running RT660 rubber and H&R lowering springs.
Thanks for the video! Besides removing the plenum and intake components, this job was straightforward and simple. I pumped out the coolant from the reservoir only (maybe 1 to 1.25 gallon?), placed a thick towel under the three connecting tubes, and disconnected them from reservoir tube to middle large tube to right most large tube in the order while positioning the two large tubes upward to prevent any further spilling. There was maybe half cup of coolant spilled on to the towel. After everything was put back, I refilled the reservoir with a new coolant and distilled water mix about 1 to 1.25 gallon. Did the engine on with heat on process twice, drove around for 15 to 20 minutes. Once the engine cooled down, rechecked the coolant level, refilled another half cup or so of coolant. No leak and all is well. Btw, the pumped coolant was clean blue color.
