I used to have diesel rwd, it used to go into limp mode towing my caravan up hills plus I hated the turbo lag from take off, would never buy another diesel territory.
Hi another thing that goes on then is the thrust bearing on the drive sharft ( behind the centre bearing) mine went at 220000. I’ve had it 5 yrs just normal wear and tear but coming up the fuel pump belt 😒,but cheaper than buying a new one ,love this car.
Hi Guys, I just purchased a 2015 Titanium rear wheel drive diesel territory. It's only done 150k and full service history. I've just had a roadworthy check and apart from a few minor things they have said it has quite a significant oil leak, and they are trying to work out were from. My question is in these landrover 2.7ltr diesel engines where is the common areas for the oil leaks?? Cheers
Great video, just did two valves today, what an effort. Love the party when you said "by now you should understand why a mechanic charges thousands to do this job" 😂😂😂😂 hilarious
@zianazam9689 I expect for push button start, push the start button with foot off the brake. Might have to push a second time to have ignition on and engine off
Yes, some have A and B. If you have A and B, check with engine running and trans at temp - oil should be approaching top of hashed A area (not the dotted B area).
@thomas Wilding Great video mate. My In tank pump on my 2012 SZ TS diesel has gone off and needs to be replaced soon because I also haven’t changed the fuel filter in ages because I know the in tank isn’t working… Any tips or help to look out for when replacing the intank pump I’m also due for a coolant change Can you please make a video on that? Can I flush the system and run it with water for a couple of minutes? Do I also need to bleed the system or does it self bleed itself?? coz I’ve heard there’s a bleed port but don’t know where it is?? Please help me friends or @thomas Wilding Thanks guys
@sohrabissafarzam3058 lift pump is same procedure as petrol. Excellent video here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OxymaRIO-vo.htmlsi=yfrjsHFq-pP8JVWu
I recently purchased a 102,000 klm 2014 example with a check engine warning and after doing a code check my LH rear light was faulty and 3 fuses were blown. I also gave it a full service and had 2 new A/T tyres fitted to the rear and a few bushings all replaced by myself and wow it passed the RWC. A nice buy for $3,000 and have already been offered $10,000 which I'm seriously thinking of accepting.
I’ve had an issue with my 2011 SZ with random loss of acceleration. It goes into high revs. I turn the car off for abit. Start it up again and all good. Know what the issue could be?
Thank you Thomas. I went to work on a friends fg falcon for first time and armed with the workshop manual thought it would be fairly straight forward but nooo. The manual is useless and after some searching found your video to be the most informative. Cheers
Having replaced maybe half a dozen of these actuators over the years, I very much appreciate your ($$$ saving!) tutorial on fixing the dang things instead! In case it's helpful for the next person - after taking one motor apart for cleaning, I opted to try cleaning the other with contact cleaner through the little holes in the motor housing rather than taking it apart. Worked like a charm! Maybe save that PITA step next time around and make for a faster fix. 👍🏼
Hi Thomas, is the problem you had feel like the clutch disengaging and reengaging like feeling with a massive thud, no matter what speed you are travelling. I have put in to Ford dealership $6,500 later still not fixed. They don’t seem to know what the problem is because it doesn’t show up on the computer.
@calvinjames419 I only felt it at lower speeds- about 30-50 km/h. If you disconnect the brown wire going to the transfer case and yhd problem goes away, then you'll know the problem is not your engine or transmission. Disconnecting that wire will also trigger an error on the dash and beeping. Tranction control may disable itself. For testing purposes only.
Thanks for the video, great help for us in que for redoing the pump. Brushes are almost gone, only 4-5 mm left, and i cannot find any info on replacement part. 3 full spoons of dust in magnet housing. Is it enough just to get same size of brush 10,8*26,8*6 or it needs some specific material? Any additional help would be appreciated.
@@monkeytutz2 it is 210.000 km and i would not like to have to do it again if some material decay sooner , confusing part about brushes is in labeling in my area like carbon, graphite, copper and silver carbon ones... original brushes are not available any time soon.
I've had 2 Territorys. An SX and now an SZ TDi. My SX had an issue with the ignition but thankfully it was able to be fixed by cleaning the terminals. According to the auto electrition the SX had to have the whole string colom replaced there was no way to buy the parts separately but later models did. My SZ has now done 220 000k and I'm about to get the transmission oil replaced for the second time. The timing belt was a killer. I think it cost $1300AU to replace. Mechanically it's been rock solid. I mostly do highway driving so I am the perfect diesel driver. I have had a fuel leak in the fuel return line and that was able to be fixed with new rubber washers and my driver's window has broken down. I've also had bad luck with fuel filters having 2 faulty ones.
@@thomaswilding8818 Defective. I had it swapped out at a service and the new one leaked. The mechanic was great. He had a new one rushed out and swapped over in about an hour.
Hey Thomas. Got a 2015 diesel territory. Gets a park Aid fault on warm sunny days only and wont start. Ford have had two goes at it so far with no luck. Any clues?
Good video... I did it same as on video. No problem at all locking unlocking perfectly but when I drove the passenger door locked but drivers not. when I stopped and pulled the handbrake it did not unlock. I dont know if it is because driver doors actuator motors are dead too or something else ? also middle locking button doesnt work. I tried to unlock the passenger door maually and it doesnt work... I dont know what to do
@aim8179 You'll need to pull the door card off again. Check if all the linkages are still attached properly at both ends, plug attached, etc. before opening up the actuator.
@@thomaswilding8818 on the passengers side i did it. everythings okay. but I think computer still thinks that the car is in driving mode so it wont ulock the passenger door
@christinalucas1401 same same. Go to about 3:00 in this video. Notice there are 2 actuators. One actuator opens the glass. The other one opens the boot latch. Same part number, just pulling in different directions.
I just keep a few complete knuckle assemblies on hand to always change over. I'd go through wheel bearings more then the average territory user. Start to finish takes me about 20mins a side. I always use copper anti seize on the CV splines.
@@pgilb70 😂. any ford wouldn’t be your first choice if you value reliability above all else, although I think latest generation Japanese might not be quite as good as previous generations, mainly through added complexity. Having said that, a Territory is a lot of car for not much money, with a few issues, but most cars have a few issues.
Just trying to understand a bit more of the functionality here. When I turn my key to position one (engine not running) my PAS pump runs. I assume it should only run, when the engine is running - is that correct. Someone suggested that my problem, or remedy might be the alternator signal - would happen to know if this is correct (or is it indeed the pump?)...... Thanks.
@edwardgurhy100 Should only work when engine is running and alternator producing volts. If it doesn't run at all, it can be the alternator. Can't see how it would work the other way round.
@@thomaswilding8818 Actually just been and double checked. It is key in second position when the pump runs (not first). So, before cranking the pump runs. If I pull the small 3 wire plug out then it doesn't run. Is there a switch (mosfet?) in the circuitry that could be failed on? Just to be clear - the pump runs in second position with engine not running. Is it worth testing the 3 wires (yellow, green, purple) and see what I am getting on each (in either position)?
I see. That is strange. Does your ignition light turn on in the 2nd position, with engine off? It should be illuminated. If not then the problem isn't your pump. Something wrong with the wiring. If is it lit then something wrong with the pump
@@thomaswilding8818 So.... ignition light is on at 2nd position (then goes off obviously on engine start). ..... reading your note here - it seems to suggest two different scenarios, 1. should be lit 2. if lit - something wrong with pump. I clearly am misunderstanding..... ?
@edwardgurhy100 The yellow wire to the pump also goes to the ignition light on the dash. Same circuit. The signal from the alternator is therefore good. You can check the yellow wire at the pump as well if you like. There could be a brake in the wire close to the pump.
You sound like a Kiwi, me too. Just bought a used R50 and my driver lock failed after three days! That must be some sort of record. I'm going to try your step-by-step to see if I can fix mine.
Have you ever been lucky enough to have a go at glow plug replacement on one of these? I know I need at least one, possibly two, but the reports on replacement are horrible. They have a propensity to snap off when removing. I’m not even going to try until the problem becomes a lot worse. Currently it’s just a lumpy cold start with too much smoke.
@@thomaswilding8818 not sure if you watch LR Time? Same 2.7 in an LR Disco 3. Christian is seriously next level technically and even he had a major battle, with heads off. I’ll live with it for a lot longer I think! Great info though, thanks for sharing!
The Ford/PSA 2.7 diesel was a turd of an engine. Many smoke like the Marlboro man. The later version (3 litre) fixed many of the faults but still, hardly the best oiler ever made.
And worse still because of our outdated emissions standards we only got the old euro 5 version without a DPF. As a result they are highly polluting and they stink to get stuck behind in traffic - literally. Was a petty disgusting and cynical cash grad by Ford so they could make more money on an engine that was illegal to sell in Europe…
@@68404 I think all (most) of the 3 litres in the land rovers would also have a DPF as they are later models. So maybe they smoke just as much but you don’t see it
Great video mate! Glad I know you now!!! I’m in Melbourne far from you 😢 Just bought a 2012 Territory SZ TS Diesel RWD today under 10k. It’s in immaculate condition interior and exterior… It’s done 190k. The cam and high pressure belt has been changed at 150K and serviced every 15k. Even tho I saw your vid; I’ve never had a diesel or territory but always worked on my cars and always will. Any suggestions on what I should do now to prevent from costly headaches??? From now onwards? Thanks mate 🙏🏼
@sohrabissafarzam3058 Nice one! Keep up the regular service. Otherwise, work your way through those 10 year service items. Id probably start with trans service.
@@thomaswilding8818 thanks heaps 🙏🏼 I’ve planned to do it this weekend… What are the 10 year maintenances I should do?? as I will start to tick them off I just don’t know as the car doesn’t come with books or any history Thanks Thomas
I bought a 2014 SZ in 2018 with 135,000kms. It’s on 213,000kms now, with no major issues. It has been regularly serviced both before I got it and since. I had the timing belt done on time at 165,000 and the IRS bushes and rear shocks at 185,000. I was actually looking for a Subaru Outback at the auctions, but this thing was too new and too cheap to ignore, so I took a gamble on it. It’s an ex-fleet car, base spec but AWD which I wanted for ski trips. I’ve really grown to love it! It drives well, quiet on long trips and reasonable on fuel (8.8 ish ave). Sure it’s got some issues, or character depending on how you look at it but that just makes it more interesting!
Hi! I removed my power steering pump and when I test it direct with the battery it runs super slow then it gets a bit more velocity and then shuts off. My question is, after replace everything you replaced, my power steering wil work again?
@Aleks2G For a guarantee, buy a new pump from mini. These videos give you a starting point if you want to have a go yourself. If you can work out what's wrong with your old pump, and repair what's broken, then it'll work again.
@Aleks2G It’s a big motor. Perhaps check your voltage. The motor would run a small battery flat very quickly. Which is probably why they designed it to not run if alternator isn't charging.
after clearing codes, it does take a few start stop cycles to flag an egr problem and go into limp mode. I don't know if it takes a few cycles to register a working egr is connected. So my need to clear codes either way??
Every time that my 2016 Ford Territory (105,000 km) changes up a gear it is very thumpy, as if I am driving a manual and drop the clutch. Fault has developed during last 1000 km and is getting worse. Local Ford agent “swapped leader frame and reinstalled, cleaned pan and reinstalled with new gasket, filled with fluid”. No improvement !! I am unsure that the agent got to the real cause of the problem. Do you have view as to what is the real cause of the problem ??
@DavidJohns-n8m tyres. I did another video that explains how tyre size can cause harsh shifting. I don't know if that's your problem, but a good place to start. See "why tyre size matters..."
Ive got the same engine in a vt calais im about to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets i just got the workshop manual i have no idea what I'm doing but ill try my best
The axle fastener is a one time use fastener. You need to use a new fastener rather than using the old fastener again. Otherwise this is a good instructional video.
With those 3 handles removed, it's a case of popping the panel off by hand - pull straight out. Always the risk of breaking something with interior panels, especially when you can't see what's holding it in till after you have it off. Notice in the picture with the panel off that the clips are all pointing 90 degrees to the panel - so pull straight out. Suggest starting at the bottom and working along the edge.
