Hell yeah dude. man what a good video!! top work. ya have a good clear voice and i like that ya skipped the bull sh*t pulling clips etc but left enough time to not miss what your actually doing. 10 out of 10 from me.
Top video, followed the same steps myself last year after watching a guy in the uk do it on a discovery. Thanks for your effort to make this. Lots of territory owners will appreciate.
Great video, great tips and good pace Tim. Gave me a lot of confidence I can do this successfully on an SZ Terry even though Ive changed a few timing belts before on other vehicles over the years.
Hey mate, thank you heaps for your great video. Referenced it heavily doing the timing belt and water pump on my father’s 2012 SZ. Good step by step and lots info including torque settings etc. Cheers 👍
Great video, wish I saw this few weeks earlier saving myself disconnecting few extra coolant hoses. Managed to do the HP belt only with engine cover off, no need to touch the fuel line (maybe I have small hands).
The coolant does need replacing sooner than the cambelt, so no loss there. The perfect build for doing the pump belt would be arms about 5 feet long and tiny hands. haha
This is what ive been looking for, thankyou for a great vid Thomas. What sort of timeframe did you do this in? Did you only replace 1x pulley for cam belt ? Did you use the origianl bolt ? or does the pulley come with new one? ohh i see the pulleys are new
@roderad Replaced 2 pulleys plus tensioner. I could not find a kit that included bolts. Timeframe - long time with all the extra cross checks and video light repositioning I do.
@@thomaswilding8818 would 2 days like over a weekend be enough you think ? Was it fairly easy to acces the rear of engine for the fuel pump belt and cutting it?
Awesome work and thanks for doing the video. One question. In most of the videos they removed the starter motor to lock up the crankshaft. Your way of marking the camshaft is much easier. If the camshaft does move and no longer aligns, can it be simly realigned ?
@nunika1975 Reallign - I expect so. Complication would be if you accidentally undid the crank bolt when trying to re time it. If you don't pin the cams, guaranteed the cams will move on their own simply under valve spring tension. Not so with the crankshaft - must not be on a compression stroke.
Turn it back. The big concern would be if built up compression turned the motor. Doesn't seem to be the case. Valve springs I'm sure WOULD move the cam angle if you released belt tensioner without first pinning it in place.
I did this same job and followed all the same steps. I told myself before I started if I wasn't confident that the timing was the same after the belt replacement I would order the flywheel tool and lock in timing for top and bottom to be safe before starting the engine again. Marking the crank with some nail polish was the way to go and after two rotations timing was still spot on as the pins slipped in and the mark matched up no worries so good to go.
