Ford Territory boot lock fail and leaks 

I had this problem, but I couldn't find a replacement actuator for a reasonable price. There is another solution: Actuators on earlier Territories (SX, SY) are proper solenoids that are much more substantial and better sealed, and the window glass actuator is mounted horizontally so water doesn't run down it. The connectors on the actuators themselves are different, but the entire boot wiring loom from an earlier territory can be swapped into an SZ from the connector just below the brake light - the whole loom from an SX with both actuators was 1/3 of the price of an SZ actuator from a Ford wrecker in Melbourne. Water can also get in around the brake light, which has a pretty insubstantial foam seal - dead LEDs in the brake light are a giveaway here.

My 2013 SZ has rusted through the rear floor umder the plastic trim that the tie down points hold down near the tailgate striker. A 6 inch long hole about half an inch tall. And thats just on a year after I treated the whole area with rust converter and painted it all. We habe had copious amounts of rain in soithern NSW.

Great video, thanks for sharing! My 2013 territory has water on the boot floor in winter. I'll BDO your trick of cutting the seal and inserting some off cut from the wreckers.

If you pull up the carpet from the sides after removing the scuff plates, you will also find water that leaks from the windows onto the foam liner inside the door cards, that slowly leaks down onto the door rubber then drips down into the carpet with a good 2 to 3 hour delay. after a month of heavy rain, I discovered the issue. I then removed the interior and vacuumed 70L of water from the floor pan and the thick NVH foam that fills the space between the carpet and the floor pan. unless the design of the doors has changed from SZ to SZ mkii. This was the cause of my issues with the AWD module and the TCM that live under the seat that I commented on one of your videos. The moisture from the leaking doors made 1 of 3 cable crimps (wrapped in thick HD blue tape) in the loom under the passenger seat. the main power feed to all the modules uses a crimp that clamps 4 cables together. The crimp turns green with corrosion and the cables start to lose continuity eventually the crimp and the cables turn to green dust. Cut the black tape back, remove the blue tape (closest to the carpet), strip the cables back, twist them together and solder then joint. Now all good after 2 months of fault finding and scouring the net and factory service manual. I couldn't find any local auto electricians who even knew what the issue was. I got in contact with a guy in Brisbane through the Ford forums, with the same issues and he found a gun Auto sparky who fixed it in 2 minutes. My local dealer has a 3 month wait time for any workshop bookings, so looking at that wait time on top of the 9 weeks the car had been out of action, I purchased a petrol SZ in the meantime and found the fix a week later haha.

I had exactly this problem with the glass and have replaced the solenoid and seal following your video in under an hour!! I don’t usually have much luck repairing cars, Thanks 🙏

Thank you so much! Spent hours thinking about this mystery until this video!!!

Thank you I have this problem and know I can fix it myself

Could you please do a video on the main boot lock ? My boot shut consistently.

How do you remove the lower trim on Territory tailgate to release white clips?

Hey Thomas .. bought an old wear and tear 2005 Territory Tx And ... had some heavy rain the other day leaks come in but my lock is not locking on boot.. wont close can release bt not working the lock to close boot...where abouts is my boot release on the car... i cant even find where it is? Do u have any idea where i can find? in case its the reason why the boot lock is not working properly? or my electrical wiring? or something else. Tried google for any help on boot release button/lever.

How do you open the boot lock after no longer working due to water when the hutch also doesn't work?