@@larryschifferdecker8538 , it was parked for about ten years because it became unreliable ( for my wife, it was her daily driver) after the Dealer installed the wrong alternator and it began eating belts and breaking down. I tried fixing everything else water pump harmonic balancer , checking belt alignment etc. finally back to alternator where it was discovered it mismatched pulley 4 vs 5 groove !!! Now it takes time to repair ten years of sitting, it’s a fun car to drive, easy to fix, starts right up after sitting for months, hard to get rid of cause it starts and runs no matter the weather
@@normanpaulife Ive been having some issues with the truck turning off when I leave it go down to the IDLE, as well as when I turn on the air conditioner and I'm stopped, the engine just drop revs until turning off.
The TPS on the truck is on the bottom and completely inaccessible. Many others the TPS is on the top. It has Phillips head screws , “IF” it was possible to remove it with a right angle screwdriver or apex bit, the time it would and risk of stripping the screws would certainly not be worth it. If it was a bet , or a challenge I could probably do it. I was aircraft mechanic for 26 years in the Air Force , replaced much more challenging things because you can’t just remove a Jet Engine to replace a simple component.
I have another video on flushing the brake system (awaiting editing). I would encourage you to drain and flush the system to prevent the contaminants and moisture from breaking down your hard work. Wish you tremendous success! Thank you for your comment
EGR blockage, makes hard starts, poor fuel economy, rough idle, lack of power. You’d also want to check Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor , if the EGR is plugged up or full of carbon the EBPS and tube for blockage it’s closely related and very common. I have a video showing the tools and method to make it much easier.
also side note, there is a little flat plate below the turbo kinda in front of it, has two screws on it but i have no clue what it’s called but it seems to have oil leaking, any help there?
Just bought 86 but the car haven’t run in over 5 years so I’ve had change the fuel pump and fuel filter and new distributor cab and wires and there’s spark when you crank it but won’t start? Any suggesting
Have you checked for spark ? The simplest way is use the coil wire and spare plug if you have one. If you have spark, you might try priming the engine with fuel in the intake. If the car has sat for many years - it’s most likely fuel related , but the ignition module is all completely within reason. The Fiero is very reliable car and I find it easy to fix . I have a long history with them , feel free to ask questions
Thanks for the quick respond! Yes I did checked the spark plugs are new and there’s spark when i firing the engine and also I’ve tried put starter fluid into the throttle I did start for second then cut off
Hey brother I have a 99 and it's hard to find a motor I was told I can only use years 99-2000 4.6 the motor it has now my wife drove with no oil and it locked would any of my parts be good to swap over
If you ( like me ) purchase an engine from a junk yard , you’ll receive a long block, that’s the core engine and heads. You’ll need all the accessories from your engine , for example. Starter, alternator, fuel injection system, ignition system, AC, power steering etc. Don’t throw anything away until the new motor is running reliably! You’d be surprised what you can reuse especially hardware
I just finished replacing the push rod gasket on my old 4.9l and I followed the same procedures as you posted in this video. There was another video where a guy changed the same gasket, except he didnt remove the power steering pump, and I'm REALLY glad I did! It gave me so much more room to work with and let me feel more comfortable doing the work. It was definitely worth the time to remove it. I also suspended the a/c compressor with a ratchet strap hooked into an eyelet of the hood framing/support. Thanks for sharing this video!
Thank you ! I was teaching my young cousin at the time. He had no experience so I was sure it would be a good opportunity to share with others like yourself
No, because I never turned the key ( rotated engine), changed the cam timing. If you have you’ll never to find TDC on compression by turning the engine and covering the spark hole with your thumb ( backyard mechanic method) or I use a remote starter switch with a compression tester to Get it close , but not past top dead center , then use a breaker bar to ease the engine over to TDC look at the piston with a strong light. Very good question by the way !!!!
I saw one of these today at the local farm store. It is a monster. The Qt-54 looked small standing beside the QT-7.5. I have the QT-54 and it has been a great little compressor. I built an aftercooler for it, and it works very well. I also put a mag motor starter on it and an auto-drain and an hour meter. I am surprised that the QT-7.5 didn't have a filter/water separator between the aftercooler and the tank. It might be something to consider keeping any water from going into the tank. I am surprised that you don't have to call and inform the weather station when using your compressor. The big air sucker is bound to change the barometric pressure quite a bit. I enjoyed your video. It was well presented and informative.
I double checked the music is Hyena by Inaequalis and Boston Landing blue dot sessions, both artists are on Spotify. More and similar music is included in my earlier video , Bronco Throttle Position Sensor video and LADY KILLERS, the parkour action comedy I have an updated Fiero brake repair series, in progress with several videos posted, and two in editing. ‘
Double check your signal voltage, from your ECM, I Believe it’s the center pin and most likely 5 volts . If the input is high, you have an ECM ( computer ) problem that needs to be corrected first. Check the wires for opens, shorts to grounds and especially in your case a short to power !
Also some not all TPS have adjustments and be certain it is installed correctly ( the detent is properly engaged) . And the rotation is correct ( original) direction
Another great video Norm. I wish you had done a close up of the second way to fill the bearing with grease. I could not see how you was filling the bearing. Could you do another video or add that close up footage to this video. Be blessed brother.
The old fashioned way ? Cup you hand scrape the grease with the with the edge of the bearing cage method? Or the table top rub method ? I think all my old bearings have gone to scrap yard. I’ll do you one better, round up some bearings and I’ll teach you first hand , and we can record that !
That’s a trick they use in the aircraft wheel shop for greasing large axle bearings, it works fast and flawlessly! And leaves very little clean up. If you find some bearings before I do we’ll shoot a detailed video of it , when the cameraman isn’t wearing nitrile gloves coated HTR grease that doesn’t like electronic equipment.
The truck belongs to a 17 year old ( at the time) his truck his decisions all the way. But it certainly ran much smoother, now he had more to fix its many ailments.
I think we are both describing the same thing. I haven’t rewatched the video , so I’m not certain what you referring to, but the crankcase breather is a circuit of the PCV ( positive crankcase ventilation) , old cars used to vent to atmosphere, but the PCV system feeds into the air intake through the breather ( filter) and burns the crankcase byproducts. The breather filter as old timers call ( myself included) is sold under the label PCV filter. I’ll bet the average 20 something parts plucker at the auto parts store does not know what a engine breather is …lol
@@normanpaulife PCV is at rear of valve cover with vacuum line going to vacuum port on intake. That's the crankcase breather going to air intake where it's attached to filter element. No worries.
Jack I am considering adding one to my new truck ! It’s a 2024 Expedition Limited Max , but the lines are insulated, not sure how effective it would be .
The best series of compressor that Quincy makes is the QR series QT stands for Quincy Taiwan that’s where that pump was made but the rest of it I’m pretty sure what the exception of maybe the pressure switch was made in the United States
I believe it’s made in USA but some components are outsourced, the pressure for example is I’m certain, because mine was leaking and they sent me replacement and the main tube was loose. When I discussed it with Quincy Tech , they said it’s brought in that way and installed, without checking the QC of the part
Nice video, your work is way better than a rockauto reman. It would be cool if you did a 84 fiero 4 cylinder distributor, that one is known to be a pain, even worse when it get moist out and refuses to work. I updated to the later 86 fiero distrubutor which was more sealed.
I owned an 84 4 cylinder and 85 also but I don’t recall distributor problems. Here’s a simple trick for distributors ( 4 cylinder) with moisture problems. Cut the finger tips off a rubber glove and slip it over the cap and run the wires through the fingers and the coil through the thumb and secure it with cable ties . I had to use than on my wife’s Mazda GLC that was very susceptible to moisture in the distributor. They used to sell wire drier once upon a time for that also. If I had an ( found ) an 84 distributor I would rebuild it.
@normanpaulife I might have one for you to check out, would probably make a nice short informational video. I've had several 84 distributors have this same problem, the one where a chip on a wire is bolted in the distributor. And the ignition module connections are not sealed, and the rotor cap is held down by spring arms. Always thought it was the pickup coil that went bad in those.
Hi Norman, how did you diagnose that the TPS and IAC were bad to begin with? Seems like those same symptoms you listed could also be caused by bad ignition parts, so you probably ruled that stuff out somehow. Could you let me know. I have a rough idle on my 96 and trying to come up with a plan for repair. Thanks.
Rule out the ignition first, by testing or replacing, that engine was a brand new rebuild. I tested the TPS with with a volt meter, the tps is variable resistor, as the throttle is opened and voltage moves linearly. If it drops, flat spots etc it’s bad. The IAC is a choke , If the truck runs rich or stalls after warm up etc it good indication your IAC is sticky. IAC is a motor
@@normanpaulife Is there a schroeder valve where I can plug in a fuel pressure gauge? I just bought this Bronco yesterday so i am still pretty ignorant.
Vibration at highway speed is also attributable to the steering damper, I am sure the tie rods needed replacement but they work in concert with the steering damper to help the car track straight. Small ammounts of bump steer (if not taken care of by the damper) will cause reverberations that are made worse by the play in the tie rods (and ball joints for that matter). Great video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Yes , the steering damper is the first thing to replace , it’s faster, easier and cheaper, most prone to wear. I had changed ( fairly recently) that’s why I reinstalled it. Great points ! The last piece of the puzzle is the steering rack lash adjustment I’m saving that for another video ( someday when it’s warm again).
I purchased a Cardone distributor in. Installed a new acdelco ignition module with computer heat sink Paiste. The original is crap, but you did a good job.
Ok, I’m driving the Fiero , the system I made has been in service on the Fiero since 1988 ! Without issues such as leaks, or crack windshield that is questions I get asked
When they are truly stuck open you find lots of round balls of carbon in the valve and in the bottom of the intake. I start the motor with valve removed to blow all the loose carbon out of the intake or it will likely jam open again soon. Good tip about the brake fluid.
I definitely appreciate it ! I spontaneously did that job to help my young cousin see he had the talents to fix up his dads hand me down truck, and it worked , he’s been fixing it ever since ( sometimes with pointers ) on his own.
I have the same symptoms, but also a frequent at times, mostly occasional engine shutdown. Choke, turn key, fires up. Everytime. Z930M 1600hrs. Ps. Thanks whoever mentioned the compatability of voltage regulators. I very much appreciate that tidbit of small engine info.
First check voltage , then consider cleaning the terminals and the ground, before buying new parts . Also test the battery especially if it’s older than three years
