Long time rider first time builder having a crack at the cafe scene. What could go wrong 😂 BMW K1100 cafe racer build BMW R100 bobber build linktr.ee/twistedfate_builds
Brotha, it’s been about 3 years now, you’ve also lowered the front now. Since you’ve ridden it and had a chance to take it all in with low rear front, if you had an opportunity to do it again, is 270mm from the center of the swing arm pivot to the center of the shock mount hole the golden spot? Or would you change the mounting hole higher or lower given that 255 - 285 mm range we see on bobber builds?
@@BIGGZ46 Hi mate, time flies hey 😁 I'm still really happy with the set up and wouldn't change a thing. It's a comfortable height for me and she handles well.
@@thehardwoodflooringshopltd9771 Thanks brother 🙏 I'd have to say pretty much the same apart from a more sports bike lean over the bars due to the dropped seat position and clip ons and more wind in the face due to no screen. She's not as comfortable as OEM but that's the price you pay for looks 😉 my R100 build is a lot more comfortable for longer rides that's for sure but this is a lot more nimble for a quick blast in the hills
None at all from the CAI but have had one a while back from the pedal commander (pedal under voltage) which I cleared with a scanner and it has never come back.
Thank you 🙏 I sand the part with various grades of paper down to as fine as I can get it without blemishes then a bench grinder with a combination of loose and stitched cotton wheels and cutting compounds. It is a tedious job but well worth it.
@@johncooney9332 Ohhhh Butt Hurt Johnny got me! Answer: Carb Synch, very little and why I am watching. Why: because I am an American Patriot that loves my Freedom and exercising it. Now I have to go act like a liberal and cry cause Johnny hurt my feelings.
Back in 1995 I was quoted $100 for a accelerator cable for my BMW 318, I made one for $2, it lasted till I disposed of the car in2010. I bet you saved a few $$$$
I’m having a lot of trouble getting the Motoscope pro to read speed properly with my 93 K1100 oem speed sensor. Using your settings I’m getting close but speed jumps around to 3 numbers almost like it’s getting 3 signals. Any help would be very appreciated :)
Hi Mike, I have had the same issues sporadically. Sometimes it can jump from 60 to 120 😅 I feel it may be induced magnetic interference from other cables or electronic equipment close to the OEM signal cable where the digital Speedo is quick enough to pick it up and the old electronic dial wasn't? I have had it in my mind for a while that next time I have her apart I was going to try a shielded cable from close to the paralever all the way up to the Speedo connection point to see if this eliminates the issue. I will post a vid once I do it with the results.
That would be amazing, I get 3 different speeds(one of them being correctly matched with my gps). I have seen products such a signal boosters from Axel Joost(lunchbox remover) but if a simple shielded cable can fix it I would prefer it. Looking forward to the next video. Thank you
@@mikebarnett9415 It may be a little while Mike .and its only a hunch as the pickup in the final drive uses magnets that pass it to sense the rotation I think it's magnetic interference from other parts of the electrical system that my be giving these results. If your in a hurry you could google suppressors for this or run a length of shielded cable temporarily and ground the shield to the frame and see what you get. Otherwise I will be trying it soon over our winter here in Aus when I get some free time. 😉
Please try to apply some with a paint brush or a sponge brush and see what that finish looks like. That would be interesting because if the results are halfway descent, you won’t have to use a spray gun.
Hi there, you wouldn't have much luck with the methods you have mentioned. It's viscosity is very thin like automotive paint so you could possibly touch up small chips with an artist brush but that's about it. I have also used a small air brush to paint smaller items which only needs a mini compressor but that restricts you to very small items.
Armor black sucks’ I had my glock slide cerakoted in armorer black and it has shiny spots where I wiped it clean after shooting. You can see the shiny spots on your test piece where you wiped it too.
How's the solderless nipple holding up? I'm in the same boat, I'd need to dip and solder with the cable on the bike. Screw type just seems more sensible...
Thanks buddy, no issues whatsoever. The only time I've had anything was when I put a throttle controller in and it and a check engine light and code which was low pedal voltage when I checked with my scanner. Cleared it and it's never came back
Great work I would like yo cerakote or powdercoat parts myself but I imagine you need quite a big set up oven to bake down the coating. How do you do that?
Depends on the part mate. I have used a 900 conventional oven for a lot of the parts, my lidded BBQ for taller parts (just have to adjust the burners continuously to keep the temp correct) and for the larger items like the wheels and frame I used C series which is ambient cure, no oven bake needed
Thanks for that I didn't know cerakote has these products@@twistedfatebuilds . I hear that many times cerakote flacks off. Whats your experience with using it on rims etc? Does it flake off etc ?
@@motorsonny 100% not true mate. If you follow their preparation and application guide you'll have no issues. It would be those that cut corners saying that if I was to guess. My wheels are now 2 years on and not even a scratch. that's also with 2 tyre changes (due to leaking valves not wear) I have done other vids testing the chemical and scratch resistance which I was super impressed with
i was looking at a greddy axleback exhaust for my rc350 but honestly, i think this might sound just as good if not better than the greddy, and its half the price. build quality is my only concern. i dont like that it has clamps
I would honestly spend the extra now buddy. These things sound ok but as you say it's the little things like stainless grade, clamps etc that may not do as well down the track.
@@orangecream2870 It's really personal choice mate. I did go this due to the price but compared to the quality of the tenabe I had on my IS350 with welds, stainless and sound (the most) I think I would spend the extra. Not sure if you've seen in the previous comments but I have moved the system on now as my wife didn't like how loud it was and the slight drone as she always drove in auto. To negate this and keep it sounding good I found you had to drive in manual to keep it in the sweet spot which I never had with the likes of the tanabe medallion
So far so good mate, a couple of years in and no real marks or scratches. I did a video testing it against common chemicals etc and it held up well and only slightly less scratch resistance to H series baked. Having said that I have had two sets of tyres fitted to the C series R100 wheels I did and even the removal and installation twice hasn't left a mark whatsoever
@@broom6958 Couldn't say for sure mate as I've only done my tests on Cera. If you can find the abrasion resistance levels for the 2k your thinking I have seen that the cerakote website does specify the levels for each series and colour which may give you more of an idea
Thanks mate, as for this over the F sport I think you'd be fine with either as I had the F sport CAI on my previous IS350 Fsport and it looked and sounded exactly the same. I guess it just comes down to availability and price but you won't regret either.
Tried wrinkle painting some parts but some areas was not wrinkle after coming out of the oven. I’m thinking I need more paint in those area. Do you know if I can just add more paint and use a heat gun over the already cured paint? Hope I don’t have to strip it down to bare aluminum.
I had the same issues buddy. I just dusted the spots and hit them with a heat gun which seemed to work. Be careful it's not too wet at the edges of the spit patch or those parts seemed to go a bit shiny.
Great. Thanks for the tip. So glad I don’t have to strip it down. For your engine block did you just use the heat gun or was your grill large enough to fit it? I’m trying to attempt the same look you have with the engine.
Not too sure mate apart from contacting all the BMW motorcycle mechanics. Motorworks UK have a lot of 2nd hand parts and are reasonably priced but it depends on the size and weight as shipping may be a killer
Thanks mate 🙏 and to be completely honest I don't notice one bit of difference. This is my weekend cruiser though and not something I'm laying over in the twisties 😉
Hey mate, these are cheap hotdogs I got from Ali express. I broke them down and re packed them with better matting and trimmed the silencer then coated them in some Cerakote C series armor black. I have a small post on it at my insta instagram.com/reel/CSQlWP4Bkrt/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
This is exactly what's happening with my TV. I had no idea what was wrong with the TV until watching your video. This is super upsetting. Thank you so much for posting this video and saving me the headache and time of trying to figure it out.
Hi there, as per the vid I mocked her up on a stand to determine the standard height of the frame as per similar OEM bikes and then allowed the swingarm to drop a little which would even out when weight was added. It is a little bit of a guessing game but the shocks do have adjustment in them. I have the exact measurements I used you'll see in my reply to comments on my insta post here if your interested instagram.com/p/CEfke6IBXwS/?igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==
We just got a new 55" Frame last week and the motion sensor worked for the first few days, but now the TV does not turn off in Art mode. I set the Night mode to off, and set the sleep timer to 5 min, still no luck. Contacting SAMSUNG, but little hope given the comments here.
I'm curious if you were able to find a fix. I came across someone on RU-vid stating that you can pull the sensor down by pulling on a tab. This would give the sensor more visibility into the room
hi scott I’ve got signal when turn on power only , but it gone when turn on fuel pump, i think it is because I group up the ground with fuel pump, should I ground the sender individual or what? am i thinking too complicated or just feed the sensor wire to Box B FUEL plug? much thanks again scott!
Hi buddy, I'm pretty sure the pump shares the ground so not sure that is the problem. I ran mine through a BEP 3.0 so was easy to just go from that's output to the breakout box of the motoscope pro. Are you using the yellow wire from the sender as this is the one that reads the resistance? The white is a low level light for the OEM cluster.
@@twistedfatebuilds Got it Scott, I think it must be the ground shared, so I feel the yellow wire in BEP3.0 pin 7 and BAR output to BOX B FUEL, still didnt get any signals, where/how is your pump ground to?
@@cmleung8133 I haven't done anything extra with the pump ground from the OEM wiring harnesses if your already using BEP 3.0 it should be taken care of already. Another thing to check is the BEP has a small dipswitch to change from BAR level reading to led Indicator it's the bottom of the 3 slots. Make sure this is switched to level indicator. I'll try and send a pic of it as another builder I know found his was set to led indicate. Hit me up on insta or FB buddy and I'll send you a pic. Can't send through here :)
I see that you have an aftermarket triple clamp as well, I reckon you got some lowering of the front of pushing up the stanchions in the triple clamp as well? With these 2 mods how much of a drop did you get at the front?
@@johnnyholmberg7773 Cheers mate. I honestly can't comment on the before and after as the donor bike was in such bad shape I virtually rode it home with teeth clenched and tore it straight down before it fell apart on its own 😅 but as for now I love it and she rides beautifully. The tiniest bit twitchy compared to my other bikes if I really had to pick something but that's more to do with removing the ugly OEM steering damper and not an issue for me.
Perfectly mate, the C series is a high temperature coating that I used on my BMW R100 airhead build you'll see in the other vids. I used armor black on the exhaust headers and other components and it's held up awesome after nearly two years. The different colours have different heat ratings but armor black was rated at 1200° F Heads up if you use it, she really smokes on first burn in for about 20 minutes so best to be outside.
I also have a frame tv. Same issue with night mode. My solution is the automatic timer. I turn night mode of so the issue of light doesn’t even matter. When walking into a room the motion catches and artwork turns on. If no motion is detected for set amount of time (5, 15, 30 min) the artwork goes off. Regardless of light in the room. This seems to work for me. Is there a feature you are after that this would not be a good result for? Thanks!
Nice work mate, this is definitely a good work around. I'm not sure how but ours seems to be working pretty well now even without the mirror. No reason I couldn't go that way if it resurfaces. I do like that it turns off about 20-30 seconds after we hit the lights though.
I honestly couldn't tell you sorry mate, I just turned tthe solder pot up to the point that all the solder was fully melted but not smoking. From memory it was about 3/4 to high but that probably doesn't mean much unfortunately.
