Cerakote C series chemical and scratch resistance testing 

Cheers Sijard, pretty happy with the results I must say 💪

Cheers Ben. It's pretty reassuring knowing your hard work isn't going to go bad with any spills 💪

Cheers Forrest, It totally withstood everything I threw at it so I'm thinking you'll be pretty safe mate. Love to hear your thoughts on it once you've had a try 😉

Cheers mate, glad it helped 😉

That's the 3rd liquid I put on at the 5 minute mark. You must have been bored and switched off by then 😂

Thanks Duane, I order from SLR Coatings in QLD buddy. They are the only stockists in Aus 😉

@@twistedfatebuilds Awsome! Thanks Heaps, I'll check em out.👊🍻

Thanks Chris, I did mate. The only difference to Cerakotes instructions is I didn't soak them in acetone after instead I just gave them a good spray and wipe with it instead until I was happy they were nice and clean. I feel there's a lot less chance of any oils running not having to do the bake with the C series and it worked perfectly 😉

Yeah the brake fluid I wasn't too concerned with to be honest. I've had some sit on my duplicolor and do nothing whereas fuel made the paint peel straight away as did acetone. If you want to sit and watch some let me know how it goes 😉

Cerakote is a ceramic coating you can let the chemical soak for weeks and it won’t do nothing lol

Not according to any info you read. I have always sand blasted the parts, acetone bathed then painted as per their instructions. I have had success with painting cerakote over freshly cerakoted items when I have found a blemish

Absolutely mate, I wonder if it's possible with the low pressure required for spraying 🤔

@@twistedfatebuilds IIRC, C Series doesn't require a catalyst. Even more possible.

@@livedeliciously 100%

I used armour black here buddy, I did start with small bottles but quickly realised it was worth going the largest as it's a disaster if you run out without completing a part! The only time I took notice and remembered to write down use for parts was the top and bottom yoke of my motorcycle took about 25ml, the carbs took about 40ml and the front guard brace which is about the size of a small dinner plate I guess also took around 40ml. Hope that helps

@@twistedfatebuilds Great - Thank you for replying. I've been calculating cost for my new product line i created 'smaller tube parts. Seems bigger the bottle, cheaper the price reducing the over all unit rate cost per item. Just placed my first order. Fingers crossed i dont stuff it up lol - Thanks mate.

@@brett2908 nice work mate, the stuff is very forgiving even for me after not picking up a spray gun for years. Watch the cera how to guides they are super handy dialing in for it. I also found I had to lower the psi a touch for C series over my base settings for H

Perfectly mate, the C series is a high temperature coating that I used on my BMW R100 airhead build you'll see in the other vids. I used armor black on the exhaust headers and other components and it's held up awesome after nearly two years. The different colours have different heat ratings but armor black was rated at 1200° F Heads up if you use it, she really smokes on first burn in for about 20 minutes so best to be outside.

Yes mate, as far as I know they are the only Aus distributor.

Thanks Merv, I'm getting it from SLR coatings in QLD buddy

@@twistedfatebuilds Cheers for that, I've been planning to take a swing at the H line for ages, but never got around to cobbling together an oven. With single part, spray and dry. I'm fresh out of excuses. :)

@@M3rVsT4H 😅 yes it's a lot easier without having to bake or mix catalyst and even the clean up etc. I'll still go H for small parts I can fit in the oven for the extra durability but more than happy with the C for everything else 😁

Hi there, you wouldn't have much luck with the methods you have mentioned. It's viscosity is very thin like automotive paint so you could possibly touch up small chips with an artist brush but that's about it. I have also used a small air brush to paint smaller items which only needs a mini compressor but that restricts you to very small items.

@@twistedfatebuilds ; I understand, and thank you for that, it helps a lot.

HI Sam, yes mate I had a brain fart and typed H instead of C. I've already done the H test vid a while back this is for the air cure 1 part C series :) The R is coming along slowly due to Covid, I have the engine almost complete, with the forks swingarm and final drive. I am now at the stage of getting the frame and wheels sandblasted so I can cerakote them and then it's time to start the reassembly. I'll do a video update of all the finished parts in the next few days 👌 Thanks heaps for the comments and following 🙏

So which do you recommend or prefer?

Great job..how did you prep the part? I have work I need done. Any advice? For that matter any chance you are interested in some work?

Cheers mate, with most parts as per cerakotes instructions I sandblast the part, then soak in acetone bath to eliminate any contaminants then hang, blast with air and usually I'll give them another quick spray with acetone in a pump bottle and once that dries up its time to spray. Unfortunately I don't have the time to do customer work due to other commitments sorry. If you look on the Cerakote website they usually have applicator companies in your area.

So sorry mate, only just seen this I would have to say I prefer H as I feel the bake gives it a little more strength against chemicals and scratches plus the added bonus that you can tool the part straight after it cools from the bake.

I have buddy, I did the Bing carbs for my R100 build in E series titanium. Not sure if this will work but here's the IG link. It sprayed exactly the same to me, I just liked the colour so I tried it :) instagram.com/p/CPfMZp7hdsT/?

😅 They are my retired ones 😉

Hi Alex, not sure buddy. I did give it it's full cure time to be fair when testing. Would be interesting to see how it goes with less. Next time I'm spraying something I might give it a try 😉

@@twistedfatebuilds Thanks a lot

It is testing C series buddy as per description. I brain faded when making the video and put H in the opener!

@@twistedfatebuilds Might need to cut down on the pot. Less brain fade.

Would be great to see if anyone has had issue with UV and fade. I dont see any effects as yet but the bikes are always garaged so no real tester there but maybe I'll try and find the tester piece and throw it outside seeing we are in summer here in Australia 👍

C series is also highly UV resistant so shouldn't have any issues with UV. H-series and E-series on the other hand are not quite as UV resistant so you may see fading if exposed to sunlight for long periods of time.

All good mate, open to all suggestions :) I was more concerned with fluids the bike will be around more often but happy to have a go with brake parts cleaner next time I spray something and can do a test piece with it. The acetone would be the closest to this which I had on hand and that had no effect so I'm pretty confident I will see the same result. I'll leave a comment when I get around to it 😉

Twisted Fate Builds yea it would be very interesting to see. I would like to cerakote my Aston Martin subframe and control arms, but would like to avoid building big oven.

@@zeomarmob You had me at Aston Martin 😅 The cera C series is ambient cure buddy. No baking required and full cure in 5 days. I used this on the frame and wheels of the R100 and it tested up well

Most brake cleaner in aus is just naptha, almost as weak as acetone. Heptane brake cleaner is cancer in a bottle, they clean new phones with it while assembling. Within 4 years every worker develops cancer and they are wearing full chemical suits/respirators. There's nothing automotive related that requires brake cleaner, nothing

Hi mate, your in luck! It just so happens I purchased some 100% isopropyl alcohol yesterday ;) I don't have a freshly painted test piece but have one from a month or so ago and just tried it with the same results. Pretty much rubbed as hard as I could which broke through the cloth and there is the absolute slightest bit of colour (almost nothing) on it but it did clean the part up nicely as it's been hanging in the workshop all that time. Having said that I have sprayed other things so this may be un baked overspray? Conclusion is she's still good with rubbing alcohol

If acetone doesn't react, alcohol definitely won't.