To watch your videos is like „eye candy“ for me, you are a perfect craftsman! You gave me a lot of ideas and inspiration for my one projects. I will by a K100 and a R100, in my country Austria they are very cheap.
Great work Scott! I think this process is a bit confusing for alot of people (myself included). You did an awesome job showing the process. Even though its not a crazy drop I think the difference it makes in the stance is perfect!
Thanks Mike. Have to admit I was a little confused how it all worked until I pulled it apart and it all made sense. Hope this vid shows others how easy the process is. Thanks for your help along the way brother 🙏
Cheers mate. Yes the pipe was a lot better option. I probably looked weird walking through the hardware shop with my calipers measuring everything 😅 well worth it though
11 месяцев назад
Great video! 👍 i'm curious though as to how the bike handles after this mod??
Thanks mate 🙏 and to be completely honest I don't notice one bit of difference. This is my weekend cruiser though and not something I'm laying over in the twisties 😉
I see that you have an aftermarket triple clamp as well, I reckon you got some lowering of the front of pushing up the stanchions in the triple clamp as well? With these 2 mods how much of a drop did you get at the front?
@@johnnyholmberg7773 Cheers mate. I honestly can't comment on the before and after as the donor bike was in such bad shape I virtually rode it home with teeth clenched and tore it straight down before it fell apart on its own 😅 but as for now I love it and she rides beautifully. The tiniest bit twitchy compared to my other bikes if I really had to pick something but that's more to do with removing the ugly OEM steering damper and not an issue for me.
Hi Twisted Fate Builds, Great video and guide! I'm doing the same on my BMW R80RT 1987 and wanted to know if you considered not shortening the spring and how that would potentially affect the ride. I'm doing the same 1" spacer and wonders if i should keep the original spring length so it would just act as a 1" preload instead. BR Chris
Thanks Chris 🙏 I did think the same but went with the general consensus on watching a ton of other vids on it. It may be a bit harder to get the top but on? But I'm honestly not sure what the other benefits or drawbacks of doing it that way are. Google may be a bigger help than me on this question sorry buddy 😉
@@twistedfatebuilds Appreciate the input! i think i will try to just install the full length as it is possible by hand and then go for a ride when spring comes to see how it handles. I can always shorten sthe springs but cant go the other way ;) Have a great one mate.
You'll see when I removed it and one spun I used a broom handle with a thread on it jammed down the top of the fork tube to stop it spinning. The same method was used when I reinstalled using an 18v impact driver to get it tight enough to not spin anymore then torque to spec with a torque wrench after.
@@fredrikjacobsson2313 it may do Fredrik, when I used the impact driver it did it up that quick it didn't spin even without having to use anything so I think you'll be fine mate
Hi Fredrick, due to the lower spring there is no way you could compress this enough to get the circlip in. Even with the rod there is a lot of compression resistance before the circlip slot appears
@@twistedfatebuilds Hmm ok but I thought its just the main spring pushing it back from the other side and with that removed nothing should push it back? I just watched another movie with the same forks and he just inserted the damper rod, on with the washer and then the circlip. Check this one from 5 min in: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uncrN3xkPdU.html What am I missing? (I'm preparing to o the same on my R80)
@@fredrikjacobsson2313 could be a different shock set up on the R100RT I have as the bottom spring sits against a ridge in the lower part of the fork tube and there is no way to push that in by hand. I found the rod technique from several different vids 😉 if the vid you mentioned has the same fork as you this is the one to follow buddy 👌
@@fredrikjacobsson2313 If you are talking about the black bushing on the top of the dampening rod you don't actually need to remove these. It is a lot easier to remove the foot of the rod by tapping it of using a wooden drift or even putting it in a vice and pulling the rod out. I found this out after I did the first one.
