@@JustGoofinRound this was probably a few months ago. I’ve been considering a trip to check out hurricane damage. Airspace is tricky around Tampa but there is usually good flying conditions following storms if you can find a dry place to take off. Definitely doable.
The OEM headlight is dreadful. On the road where all other autos are using HID and LED technology, this might as well be an oil lantern. On the trail, you can see farther by feeling whats in front of you with your hands.
I swear I jump down on the forks then jump back up while shifting my weight back while the shocks are decompression giving her full throttle in second and it’s super hard to get her all the way up to balance point, bikes a 2022 with 10k miles think it’s just a skill issue or maybe something causing the bike to not get the full amount of torque it should be getting? I had a crf450 and could wheelie it like cake for miles my drz not so much…
@@Astropr0ject oh man a crf450 just doesn’t care. They make so much torque you just twist the throttle. Super fun. The drz400 is a turd in comparison, and it took me a while to get the timing and engine speed combinations refined enough to pull it off every time without it feeling forced or difficult. It sounds stupid, but I think you’ll start feeling it if you keep working with it. I don’t think it’s a bike specific thing, but for comparison mine is a 2019 non CA model and the only modification is a 3x3, jet kit, and exhaust. Got some Continental 50/50 tires on it. Stock otherwise with 7,500 miles.
“Gosh I look like such a goofball with this thing hanging off here” 😂😂 cool video! I bet you get some great shots though when you’re up in the air. Cool video!
Man I get self conscious. Those are my insecurities coming out. lol. That's 100% true. The video I get paramotoring is mind blowing. I haven't used a gopro while flying since I bought the insta 360.
JIS or JSI bit whatever, I don't know what that is. Just got a 2024 DRZ400S about a month and a half ago still breaking it in. But I will be interested in performing these mods in the future after I've got the bike fully broken in.
JIS just stands for Japanese Industrial Standard. They look almost identical to a phillips driver, but the angles are sharper and they "bite" better. You can make a phillips driver work, but it's not ideal. They cam out and strip the screw heads more easily.
This is a pre-GPS Dual Sport odometer and hits its functional stride when used in combination with a roll chart. (yes, there are actual sanctioned DS competitive events) and it is not entirely unique to Suzuki.
You put a lot of effort into into setting up the test accurately and consistently - and even bought a Db meter. Well done! You seem almost like a fellow engineer :) Have you put the meter on the stock exhaust? I have considered both of these pipes...but I ride in some areas where I don't want to announce my presence and have wondered how these compare to the stock exhaust.
I wish I would have had the foresight to put a meter on the stock exhaust, but the whole idea of this video didn’t come about until after I had become discouraged by how loud the MRD exhaust was and wanted to try and help others make more well informed decisions. I didn’t go back and put the stock exhaust on. I’d also really like that information just to know. I totally understand the desire for a quiet setup. It’s got its advantages! Too funny, you called it, I’m an electronics engineer. How about yourself?
Need help with my zzr600 06.. just got the black taillights. Do i need an adapter to hook them up or will it work? Do I need to take off the rear fender?
@@NoName-c4y7h man I feel that. The Tenere and MT09 seem like extremely good machines. The DRZ400 will never make it 100,000 miles reliably. Honestly for 100,000 reliable miles you might be looking for a goldwing. 🤣
Great video! Even the manual is a serious head scratcher... At the top of pg. 3-9 it says "push the MODE-TRIP button" when it means MODE-TIME (makes this mistake twice). Also the adjustment procedure on pg. 3-11 seems to vary slightly from my m/c.
That’s 120.8 decibels without a load on the engine. I’d be willing to bet that’s not the end of the story. It’s so loud. I appreciate you for recognizing how obnoxious that number really is.
I got 96 but on decline. Got a 39t rear sprocket I'm going try since I don't live in the city. Fcr39 carb just installed. Hoping to cruise 80mph at a decent RPM.
That’s very interesting. I’d take my machine on much farther rides if I could cruise at speed without feeling like I’m abusing the machine. I’d be curious to know how the 39t rear treats you. Especially if you’re also beating me topped out. 🤣
Paragliders and VFR planes are not allowed to pass directly through a cloud, and above G there are standoff requirements for this reason. The lowest an IFR flight could be in this area is 1430ft, which is above ppg ceiling here. We also have some tools that help maintain awareness. This is certainly something that is respected to all possible extents.
@@FishStick_ADV oswald was the lone gunman the jab is safe and effective the gulf of tonkin happened 911 was cuz some cavemen hated our freedom, jet fuel melts steel, sirhan sirhan wasnt a mk ultra patsy, the cia doesnt smuggle drugs to fund black ops, the boiler explosion on the main was actually a spanish bomb, covid came from bats But theres no point int wasting reason on the unreasonable. Take your shots and always buy what the govt tells you cuz govts dont ever lie never.
Alright dang it. I bought one. Installed it. Tried the first too settings and it's showing I'm idling at 2400 rpm. What settings did you use. I wired mine different, like the directions said. But honestly yours sounds closer too being right than mine.
I didn't have to mess with any settings on the unit for it to work properly in my case. I can't say this will be the case for everyone, but a proper idle RPM is about 1800 RPM. 2400 RPM is only 600 RPM off from there. It could just be the idle setting is too high on your bike. There's an idle adjust hanging off the carburetor. It's a black plastic knob on the left side of the bike near the carburetor. Turning the knob counter clockwise lowers the RPM and turning it clockwise raises the RPM. It's a bit finicky, but if your carb has been worked on previously, or if other factors have changed, it's entirely possible the setting is just slightly too high. Otherwise there are settings in the tachometer to change it from four stroke to two stroke or multi cylinder machines. It could be a setting in the tach. If the reading is pretty consistent on every refresh cycle and not scattered all over the place then I would think the install is good.
I just got this exact tach off amazon. I also have a DRZ. There is a sentence in the tach instructions: "Under normal conditions, if the RPM is a little low, you can increase the winding turns, if the RPM is a little high, you can reduce the winding turns. For example, wrap 6-10 turns, if the RPM is a little high you can reduce the winding turns. For example wrap 2-4 turns, if the RPM is a little low, you can increase the winding turns." So the instructions are saying the the amount of turns around the plug wire will affect how many RPM are shown. That seems strange. It's seems like an induction tachometer shouldn't need to be adjusted. If I knew the RPM's, I wouldn't have installed a tachometer. ALSO. The tach instructions indicate that for 4 stroke engines the wire should be wrapped around the head of the coil, not the spark plug wire. (I geuss that should have been my first sentence!) I have thought about using a igniton tiiming gun/light that gives rpm to check the accuracy of the tachometer.
