This is a how to video that covers the three basic power mods most people perform on their DR-Z 400. Hit me up in the comments if you have questions or concerns. I'd be glad to help any way I can, and I appreciate your feedback.
I just sold an E model with the cams and pumper carb, and picked up an old S model with all these mods done. Honestly there isnt much difference in power, but that FCR carb was finicky. This CV carb never needs adjusting, Im impressed AND its a lot smoother low rpm.
Nice job! Thanks for posting. This was very helpful when doing this today. My impact setting on my cordless made the screws a total non-issue! In fact, I couldn't believe they all came loose so easy. The bike runs very smooth and revs much fast. Just got my SM this week. I'm excited about the many years I'll have riding it. After the last 40 years of riding 1000cc super sports, this will be run new experience.
Impact setting on a cordless drill... I'm definitely taking note of this! I hope you are granted many more years of experiences and adventures on your new SM. The DRZ definitely allows you to look at your riding environment and its possibilities a bit differently than you do on a sport bike, which is incredibly refreshing and exciting in its own way. I'd be interested to know what you think after so many years of 1000cc SS experience.
Thank you for posting this video. I've had my exhaust in my closet for my 19 for 8 months waiting for someone to help me with it. I feel comfortable doing it on my own now.
Glad to hear you’re feeling better about the job; 8 months is too long to have a new exhaust and not be able to enjoy it! If you have any lingering concerns feel free to hit me up. Good luck to you!
SWEET! I have a 2019 DRZ$))SM also and just installed the same MRD exhaust you did and plan on doing the other mods you show here also! Thanks for filming it!
Carter Horman I’m sorry I’m just now seeing your post. The PAIR valve (smog equipment) is located near the exhaust header, but the MRD fits without issue. I didn’t change anything with respect to smog equipment.
So I never knew this but the Phillips screws on most every Japanese bike are JIS standard. I have a DR 650 and did this mod. I bought a 3 set of JIS screwdrivers. They are still tight but the JIS drivers fit better and don’t slide out of the screw. Phillips will. The kit normally has Allen screws in it to put back in place of the original Phillips so you’ll never have another issue.
@@FishStick_ADV hey man great vid I also own a Drz400sm 2020 and dying to do a 3x3 mod do you recommend this 3x3 on all Drz400sm ?cause I’m only using it during summer time
Yes, I would recommend the 3x3 mod with jd jet kit to everyone regardless of season. In fact, the 3x3 may be the most beneficial during the summertime given the ideal gas law, pv=mrt. volume of air increases with temperature, which means you can't fit as much in the combustion chamber, and the effects of chocking the intake will be accentuated.
Subscribed! I like the video man definitely give a better view for the people who don’t know what they’re doing like my self when it comes to breaking down the carb and such. You should do a video of ur bike here recently seen you added a few more things in a past comments.
Thanks Benji! Glad the video is helpful. I could definitely do a video about other mods. I've added quite a number of other parts at this point. Consider it added to the cue!
FYI You may have done this- couldn't tell (no disrespect)---at --11:30-- when you trying to take those screws off- you need to use a JIS tip screwdriver🔧🔧🔧 - those screws are tight and its a different tip that a regular Philips😒, don't know why that not covered in the instructions🙄 because EVERYONE does that Yammynub JakeSnake Etc. You did a better job dealing with it than they did tho 🔨🪓💣🥵 heheh Nice Vid, appreciate the details and talking through it as you did it and not playing music 😁 Hope to see more vids on your DRZ 🤩Tx4V
No worries on disrespect, I’m always open to advise and I’m here to learn with everyone! You’ve actually made a very good point. I know in my follow up video I mentioned the JIS tip, but I didn’t mention it in the install video, and I feel like that’s a large deficiency in the video given the information isn’t present in the instructions from JD... There is a reason I didn’t mention it, though. It’s because I wasn’t being mindful, and I actually have no idea if I used a Phillips or a JIS during the install. You caught me! Lol. That’s such an easy detail to miss and it can make your life miserable. I hope others see this, and don’t make that mistake, so I appreciate you bringing it up. I wish I would have seen it mentioned like this before I started; maybe I would have paid more attention and saved myself some trouble.
That carb is JIS (Japanese industrial standard) screws not Phillips. They Look similar, but Phillips will strip them quick. Great video tho. Lots of help
Was hoping you were going to do a before and after test ride. I just bought a '23. It's my third DR400, but the first one I'm modding. My first two were left stock.
Thanks so much Dereck! That’s awesome you are able to start with a dry DRZ. You get to make it 100% your own! I hope you are able to acquire yours very soon. Best of luck to you brother!
Congratulations on catching the DRZ bug. When you feel more confident and power hungry, Look at performing a carb upgrade to an FCR39MX and PAIR removal. Maybe later on a big bore kit install. (Cylinder Works)
Thanks @SW400SM I appreciate the input; good advise! I've owned and ridden many different bikes over the 20 years I've been riding. I purchased the DR-Z on purpose and understood the limitations before doing so. That said, I'm really not planning to build a power house. I'd like better suspension, but the rest suits my purpose well. The parts you mentioned would be awesome, though!
Had a motorcycle mechanic friend help me with this and after i remembered to ask about that oring. He said it wasnt on my carb to begin with and isnt important at all. Got mad at me actually. Then he had fuel air or air fuel that was also a argument lol set to what sheet said and bike wouldnt start right away. He turned my idle up a bit and was fully opening my throttle in choke to crank. After i mentioned my idle was always ok till carb got gunked up so probably needed to have correct idle then dial in air mix screw fine tuning. He got mad again and said these ppl or etc youtube dont know shit lol. Said screw is fine set exact to what paper said and just make adjustments to idle lol. I guess my bike is running without the oring though. Thumpertalk many have said cant tell a difference with or without
Do yourself a favor and buy a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Screw) screwdrivers for working on any import bike or car. They look like a Phillips head but they're subtlety different in how they're cut. You'll stop stripping screws and be able to apply WAY more torque than ever before. You can find them on Amazon- definitely worth the money.
Mike Krueger thanks for the advice, sir! I have picked up a set of JIS screwdrivers. I absolutely used the wrong driver in the video, and I realized I made that mistake after the install. It’s a deficiency in the content and I appreciate you guys chiming in so that this info is available here in the comments.
My man! I believe any time you can afford more parts by NOT doing something, you’ve won. Skip a couple haircuts, and buy those oversized foot pegs you’ve been eyeing instead. You’ve saved time, fuel, wear and tear on your vehicle, and got sweet parts out of the deal! Motorcycles usually attract more dudes than they do chicks anyway, and bros don’t care about your hair, they care about bro things like getting your crashes on film and laughing at your misfortunes. When time comes for that cut, you get whatever looks “good enough” when pulling it out of your helmet after a three hour ride. No frills, we don’t have time to waste in front of a mirror in the morning... we already know we are ugly and there isn’t a fix for it (speaking for myself at least). You, sir, are obviously winning, and I believe in your life philosophy! 🤣🤣
hey dude i live in italy, now jd does worldwide shipping but i cant find the kit for the non mx fcr 39 anywhere online and on the website too. my bike runs just fine (kinda) the only thing that is really annoying me is that i cant open the gas too fast otherwise my bike bogs, engine is like brand new, its all rebuilt, if anyone could help me i would appriciate that thanks in advice. now in my channel i have uploaded some videos 2 of them where the bike runs with these problems the one on and off road to be precise, at a certain point i couldnt bring the bike up because it was bogging a lot and even after new valves the problem is still there.
The electrical box on top of the airbox is your ECU. The screws on on the carburetor cap should never be that tight. Good way to strip them. And yes, you can do the carb mod without taking the carb off. It all disassembles from the top. You worked a ton more than you needed to and you wouldn't have nicked the paint. Sometimes it's good to follow directions. I have a jetting kit off eBay. No need to drill out your jets. Just hone them to the proper diameters. Actually I'm surprised your kit didn't come with the new pilot jet. It should have. When putting on the new headset pipe use anti-seize on the screws. Nice video. Easy, inexpressive mod.
Your comment has some odd points, so I would like to clarify some things. First of all thanks for letting me know about the ECU! That's great to know! The carb was brand new from the OEM. The screws on top were installed by the OEM. The screws were tight because of the OEM. There is nothing I can do about that. You can disassemble the carb while it is on the bike, but you still have to remove the throttle cables and case vent chamber to gain the room necessary to rotate the carb enough to remove the float bowl and access the jets. It's not much more work to just remove the carb, and it's easier to dig around inside the carb on your bench top than it is on the floor. This is a subjective point. You can do it either way. I didn't drill out any jets. You have to remove the lug that covers the fuel mix screw, and that requires some drilling. There is no way around that unless someone else has already messed with the carb. The JD jet kit definitely comes with a #25 pilot jet. I installed it in this video. The anti-seize is a really great tip. I wish I would have used some!
nice approach, I've seen this done but no one ever shows them taking everything off from the plastics on out.... there's much in all that & it's good actually seeing what you're talking about. So you bought the "SM" model.... I've seen a number of people convert the dual sport or other bikes into a Super Moto. I think they look cool but IDKnow the actual difference between the SRz400 Dual Sport & the Super Moto models? I assume they've got some differences but I've not looked very close yet? I'll be looking as this SRz400 is one of my top choices for a bike. peace
Thank you for the kind comments! You can certainly convert the bikes back and fourth from SM to S model or S to SM. Here is a list of the differences: Swing arm, forks, handle bars, triple clamps, speedometer drive gear, wheels, tires, front brake rotor, and kick stand. When converting from an S to an SM you really only need to worry about the wheels and tires (and kick stand). the wide street tire may be tight on an S model given the S model swing arm is more narrow than the SM model. The SM uses an RM-Z swing arm while the S model does not. Some people run into interference issues with the drive chain and tire when opting for wider tire options. Stock SM rear tire is only a 140 so you just have to be mindful there. other than that you’d have to swap the speedometer drive gear to get the correct readout on your dashboard, but you can get around that with GPS. You can run whatever front rotor you want on an S model. If you go with the larger SM rotor you’ll need a caliper relocation bracket. The SM model will only accept the large SM rotor. There are perks to both models and switching back and fourth has only slight nuances depending on which one you start with. If you have any more questions feel free to reach out!
Wow, thank you for your time ! I'm still trying to define what type of riding I'll be doing? Up until about a month ago I thought that to have a SM Bike you'd buy the Dual Sport & convert it. I though it b/c I saw 1-2 videos where they did just that & they were comparing it to the Yamaha WR 250 >> so I'm getting together as much knowledge as possible to make an informed decision. I appreciate your time & the video. peace
@@user-dv7hb2sc9m oh I understand! As far as Japanese light dual sports are concerned there are only two factory supermoto options that I’m aware of. The Suzuki DRZ400, and the Kawasaki KLX300. The older KLX250 was also offered in SM trim for a while. Outside of that everything is converted to super moto. To be honest, there is no wrong way to do it. Some of the dual sport only options like the WR450F offer greater potential after conversion than purchasing a production DRZ400 super moto. You’ll just have to dial in your “must haves” and do quite a bit of digging through your options… but you already know that! Lol. Best of luck to you! 🤜🤛
Yeah, I got the KLX300 on my scope as well but given the chance(money wise?), I'd go ahead & do the WF450 but for now I'm learning all I can about all my choices... who knows, as it opens up to me I might find a decent used bike w/ someone who really needs the cash - that's my FAV choice & I do know all the things to look at in buying a used bike. Without the money right now I spend my time researching so I'll be ready. And really, I'd prefer a bike that's got no computer chips or junk in them. I drive an old truck for those same reasons - it's all been redone .new everything. Thanks again & I'll be back to watch your stuff
Hey man so I’m watching your video because I’m about to jet my bike. So I’m in Florida, what main jet am I suppose to use ? The instructions say I’m suppose to use the 165.. since I’m running a full exhaust system and the 3x3 box... but they didn’t provide a 165. Only 170, 160, 155, 150, 145.. so are the instructions wrong ? I’m suppose to use the 170 main jet, 25 pilot, blue needle, position 4... correct?
How strange! It’s almost like they gave you the right kit with wrong instructions. According to the instructions that came in my kit, you are correct. 170 main, 25 pilot, clip 4, and 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw if you’re going with a 3x3 and full exhaust. Ironically, I just moved to Florida about 6 weeks ago. My bike seems to run just as well here as it did in Indiana, but that’s what I expected given it was only a few hundred feet different in elevation. I tend to think a guy could probably get away with using the 160 main jet. Especially here given it’s hot and humid most of the year. I’m considering switching my 170 main out with the 160 just to see how it runs, but have not gotten around to it. The instructions do suggest using the 170, though. That’s the safe way to go! Lol
Awesome vid!! Do you have a link to this exact jet kit ? And will the kit bring everything that’s needed to do this install? Anything else I should buy ? Thanks in advance
Neil Rodas I should’ve ordered one also but didn’t realize that the kit didn’t come with it. Maybe I’ll order one. Can I install it after I rejet and remount the Carb or does it have to be installed when the Carb is out of the bike?
Neil, I find it difficult to express how right you are about that! I installed one on my last bike. I thought I could live without it on this one... It's really not worth saving $20 over. Lesson learned.
That hose is vacuum supply to the PAIR valve as part of the secondary air injection system. It ultimately connects to the intake between the carb and engine... More emission controls, one reason not to love 2019 and newer US models.
Quick question, I have a k&n air filter and FMF full exhaust system , and I’m getting a lot of backfire when I let off the throttle while decelerating , is this cuz I don’t have the carb jetted or another problem? Thanks in advance , great informative video 👍🏼
You're right, if you have not jetted the carb and have installed a full exhaust and K&N filter on the bike, it will run lean. One sign of lean condition is backfiring during deceleration. There are other things that can cause it to backfire. If the vacuum line that runs from the petcock to the carburetor is unhooked, it will backfire like crazy. If you have a clogged jet in the carb or a vacuum leak in one of your carb boots, it could cause backfiring. If the bike ran well before and if other issues seem unlikely to you, a jet kit is probably your answer. Let me know if you have issues, I'm happy to help if I can.
Cody Woods wassup Cody I’m back again , I just finished jetting the carb bike runs great just a little bit/ very small back fire when letting off the throttle, is that normal?? Thanks again
@@ANIZZY517 This could be normal as the bike has a PAIR Valve which adds air into the Exhaust system for enviromental reasons. This can cause Rumble/poping on deccel.
Anizzy, my bike actually has a small backfire every now and then when I pull the clutch to shift up. I have written it off as a function of the PAIR valve as Tobias has mentioned. My bike literally just gives one little pop between shifts every now and then. That's the only ill mannered thing it does. Is yours similar? If you have a lot of popping on deceleration, it could be an air leak at one of your carb boots. Double check things and make sure you are not getting any unmetered air in the intake. Also make sure that the vacuum line is connected to your petcock. If you've accidentally left that unhooked she'll backfire like crazy. Basically any backfiring is going to be caused either by lean condition (air leak somewhere on the intake track or perhaps an incorrect carb setting, which is unlikely given you've re-jetted) or a function of the secondary air injection system/PAIR valve.
Could you possibly try to find me a good link for the jet kit you did and ur full exhaust system!? I’ll look my self try to find it but if you find a good link lmk!!
Yes sir that no problem, I purchased the JD Jet Kit from Rocky Mountain ATC/MC; here is their link: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/jd-jetting-jet-kit-p I purchased the MRD Z-Pro Shorty directly from MRD Racing; here is their link: www.mrd-racing.com/page04.html
Hey Trido1986! Are you using a jet kit or are you are you jetting from scratch? The JD jet kit has you use the 160 main if you are using a slip on with a 3x3 airbox mod between 0 - 4000 feet of elevation or a 155 main between 4k and 8k feet. That’s assuming you’re using the JD needle that came in the kit, so if you plan to use a different needle or a different kit, those values may not hold true.
Hey Domonick! have no idea how much more power I’m seeing personally, but I do know that SRMoto has some dyno charts posted on their website that suggests about 4 horsepower to the rear wheel is what a guy should expect with a full exhaust and 3x3 with proper jetting.
As of now, I don’t plan to delete it. I don’t know if you’ve seen it, but I do have a follow up video that shows it running and riding. The only weird thing it does, is every now and then it’ll produce a single pop backfire during an up shift. It’s literally one pop, and it doesn’t happen during every shift, just every now and then. I’ve never experienced that with other four stroke dirt bikes I’ve had in the past, so I’m assuming that’s just a function of that air injection system burning off residual fuel in the exhaust. Other than that hiccup it runs flawlessly, and I’m very happy with it. If the PAIR valve helps emissions, and doesn’t effect performance as they claim, then I have no reason to remove it. That said, I also won’t think twice about removing it the minute it causes problems.
The engine will just run a little leaner than it did with factory exhaust. You may have some popping when decelerating and it will likely accentuate “dead spots” if any were present in the stock torque curve. You won’t reach full potential of the exhaust without jetting. Nothing wrong with adding only exhaust outside of that lean condition causing it to make less power than it could. Max power is typically made when running slightly richer than stoichiometric air fuel ratio. If you run an engine too lean, it can cause other problems, but I believe you’ll have to do more than an exhaust swap to cause issues.
I don't have this issue myself, but I might know why it's happening. Can you list all of the engine performance modifications you have done to the bike?
My bike seems to run well using the 170 main jet. I'm not sure what altitude you are at, and what other modifications you have done, but the way the JD instructions read if you are at 0 - 4000 feet altitude and have a full exhaust system with the 3x3 airbox mod they recommend the blue needle, clip position 4, 25 pilot, and 170 main. It appears that they recommend the 160 main if you have full exhaust, 3x3, and are at 4000 - 8000 feet altitude. They also recommend the 160 main if you have a slip on with 3x3 and are at 0 - 4000 feet altitude (but in combination with the red needle, clip position 3, and 25 pilot)... Clearly you have a full system so this doesn't apply. I think if you are between 0 and 4000 feet altitude, you will be fine with the 170, but if it runs well and isn't too lean using the 160, I doubt you'll see much, if any, difference using the 170. The only way to know for sure would be to try, though!
No worries @boblai0405! Providing a decent answer is the least I can do. I've actually installed (since making this video) an Acerbis 3.7 gallon tank, IMS wide foot pegs, CFC case savers, and purchased (but not yet installed) Continental TKC80 tires. I plan to toss on a rear rack, bash plate, and radiator guards in the coming month. I also plan to upgrade the handlebars, and update the front turn signals. I'll also address the suspension soon. I'm wanting to do some adventure rides with my brother who has a 400s model, so depending on how the TKC80s perform I may end up with a dedicated dirt wheel setup sometime down the road. Sorry for another long comment! How about you? what are your plans?
I’m honestly not sure. I did mine within the one year warranty. The DRZ400 just works, and these mods are well documented by the community as a whole. If you’ve got some miles on your machine and everything seems fine after break in, there is a low likelihood you’ll find an issue in a years time anyway, and these mods don’t do enough to add excessive stress. What’s 4 horsepower really going to hurt, when the bike was designed around E model power output? It’s always a game of odds, but the statistics rule heavily in your favor. I would have to guess that Suzuki would likely void your warranty should the engine grenade, but again it’s only a year, and the odds are extremely good. That’s just my guess and thoughts. I don’t actually know.
If you buy the JD jet kit, it will come with instructions and jets to set the carb up for different configurations, but to answer the question itself, yes if you buy a jd jet kit and set your machine up like mine it should run great as long as you are not at a high geographical elevation. If you are at a high elevation the kit has instructions for that. You don’t even need to 3x3 if you don’t want to; it sounds like you just need a carb tune to remedy a lean condition. You might also check and make sure there isn’t an air leak somewhere. Make sure all of your vacuum lines are connected and in good shape. Check that the carb boots are seated well and in good shape. This is also a common issue that causes very lean conditions and the running issues you described.
I'm not sure if I also need to replace needle or if it can remain stock? What else should I change? I'm planning to do 3x3 mod , due to 140m height above sea level I'm thinking about 160 main jet, 25 pilot jet without extended fuel screw. I've got leovince x3 slip-on without db killer. Does only main jet and pilot jet will be ok? What's your opinion?
Based on what you’ve said I’m assuming you plan to buy individual jets and you will not be using a kit. Is that a correct assumption? I’ve never jetted a carb from scratch, but I can tell you the stock needle only has one clip position. I used a JD jet kit and it came with a new needle that has 5 clip position and gives you a lot of adjustability. I’m assuming you’d want to purchase a new needle, but I’m really not sure. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. The JD kit does suggest a 160 main jet for your altitude with a 3x3 and slip on, but that’s in combination with the needle they provided and I’m unsure if the needle profile is identical to the stock needle. There is uncertainty there and I’d hate to tell you one way or the other because of that. The 25 pilot jet is pretty much a sure thing, though. I’d definitely use that.
@@FishStick_ADV that's right. My plan is to buy only main and pilot jet without needle (it's barely available) . I've read somewhere on the internet that without changing the needle , I should use bigger main jet. So I assume that 165 MJ + 25 PJ should be perfect. Thanks for your reply Cody, it helps me a lot :) Next week we'll see if my predictions will work to my DRZ.
You do not have to use a full exhaust system. If you want to use a slip on with stock header, you can absolutely do that. The JD jet kit comes with all the jets and instructions necessary for every exhaust configuration whether you’re using stock exhaust, a slip on, or a full system. Just follow the instructions and use the hardware they recommend for your exhaust configuration and you’ll be set. If you want to add a header later, you’ll already have the jets and instructions for that too.
That diaphragm is a little bit weird, but I'm surprised you're having this much trouble. Did you get it sorted? If you did, could you mention your solution? I'd love to have your thoughts it in the comments for others to see.
The 3x3 mod removes the original snorkel, and increases the area of the opening in the top of the air box for less restricted airflow on the intake side of the engine. It’s derived from the E model DRZ400 which comes in this configuration from the manufacturer. Many people will also opt into adding other E model parts like cams and FCR carb. It’s basically a de-restriction protocol - removing what the OEM did to meet emissions requirements for street operation. That’s the idea anyway.
I’m guessing you’re trying to decide if you want to run the 160 or the 170, right? I have not tried the 160, but I can’t say I’m unhappy with the 170. My bike runs well with the 170 and to me it doesn’t seem too rich, but I have not pulled the plug to check for it’s consensus. It pulls hard up top and feels like it pulls deeper into the revs than it did prior, so I’m happy with it. It doesn’t pop on deceleration or anything (which isn’t a concern of the main jet anyway). The only hiccup is likely due to the PAIR valve - every now and then it pops once when I pull the clutch to upshift. That’s the only odd mannered thing my bike does with this setup and I’m not really sure if opting for a smaller main would alleviate that. Overall I’m very happy with how it’s running on the 170. I have a vlog style video of “thoughts after installing” on the channel if you’re interested. I’m at about 500ft elevation also; I’m not that far from sea level.
Cody Woods ended up just going with the recommendations and went with the 170 main. Think I got the bike running pretty good, small bit of backfire on decel or when I let off the throttle but I don’t think it’s anything to worry about, do you get any back fire or anything?
It feels like makes a few more horses by the seat of the pants, but without a before and after dyno run, anything I say would just be a guess. What I notice most is much (but not all) of the twitchy response from throttle inputs when lugging have become smoother, so lugging is easier and less physically taxing. The bike also pulls longer through the rev range up top. The bike is a bit quicker, and it does feel like it produces a few more ponies, but I believe the real benefit is the improved performance across the spectrum; not just peak power.
Damien Bailey, I worked on it over the course of three evenings. I started Saturday evening and finished on Monday evening. I probably had 6 hours in it, but I don’t usually get in a big hurry on projects like this and it was terribly hot so I took breaks. It could easily be done faster.
These bikes are so well documented (aka old) there is quite a bit of data online regarding these mods. From what I could pull from dyno charts available on the internet, it seems like this is worth a bit north of four horsepower at the wheel. I don't have any information of my own.
@@FishStick_ADV thanks, I plan on buying a good used one when I get back on my feet. Definitely going to do mods so I definitely need to watch more vids.
I bought a brand new 2019. Does the 3x3 actually help power/torque? I've heard it's hard to tell the difference.... other than the sound of air forced into the air box.
It’s a bit hard to tell what you’re planning to do based off your question, but I’ll say this. Air isn’t forced into the air box, air is drawn into the air box by vacuum produced by intake cycles. The larger opening only allows air to pass more easily. The 3x3 mod will only hurt you if you don’t make carburetor adjustments. If you make alterations to air flow, you’ll have to make alterations to fuel flow. If you’re looking at doing a 3x3 mod only, I wouldn’t advise it. It’ll run very lean. If you’re going to do the 3x3 with jetting, then yes I’d do it. It does make a difference if you support the mod with jetting adjustments. Is it night and day like a lot of people suggest? I’d have to disagree. Will you gain a few horses, yes. It will also smooth out the pilot circuit. So Does it help? Sure. Will you notice? Absolutely. I believe the SR Moto website and yoshimura website both have dynamometer info. Check it out if you can. I’m also just some random dude on the Internet. Keep researching and make your own decision. If you love it as is, don’t sweat it, Just ride it! If you want to play with it a bit, I don’t think you’ll be unhappy that direction either.
@@jmfaria450 I installed the 3x3 a couple weeks ago. Certainly an improvement down low and mids. No choke required in the morn. Start & GO!!! Yep, Helped the dizzer.
I appreciate that information. Phillips were designed to cam to prevent over torquing and that’s why everyone has trouble. Wrong tool. Lessons learned. Tools purchased. Ready for next time. Thanks Richard!
You’re not wrong! I’d certainly like to try other carb options, but from everything I’ve seen, I’m not quite convinced the gains are enough to warrant the steep price on an otherwise stock engine. What I’m wanting to avoid is chasing more performance to the point where I’ve invested “should have just bought the EXC 500” kind of money. That said, it probably wouldn’t take much to convince me. Have you used a Lectron? If so, what are your thoughts?
It’s really not that bad. Just take your time and churn through it. It’s definitely worth it given how relatively easy it is. There are much harder projects out there!
First off who the hell gave you that haircut?? And how did you not end up in jail after you allow this to happen to yourself?? And lastly I like your bike dude keep up the good work but get a fucking haircut
