Welcome to Tec Raven, the channel that covers all things audio production, video production and photography.
I studied photography in London and ran a commercial photographic studio specialising in product photography, portraiture and fashion. Later I studied screenwriting and video production and ran a video production company for many years. I'm also the founder and ex editor of 'Digital Video User' magazine. I have over 25 years experience as a stills photographer and video producer.
I'm also a musician and music producer. I spent many years hanging around in recording studios playing with loads of gear. I played bass and drums in two bands and I have a degree in classical piano performance. I love writing rock/pop and electronic music and recording tracks in my home recording studio based around Logic Pro X with some outboard kit including a Nord Lead A1 synth, a full-size Roland V-drum kit and the usual bass and electric guitars.
Hey Nigel, I did exactly what you suggested with my kit.. I love it!! thanks for doing this video. I still need to add the extra pad for the cowbell or closed HiHat, since I play double bass and there is not closing clamp for the hats
At 24:38 into the video I say 'Now something else you can do in here...' where I explain it. Simply click the 'Load' button at the top left of any instrument and pick what you want to replace it. So in this instance you select the Hi-Hat and change it for a kick drum - simple.
@@stravvman Yes, that's along the lines I was going to suggest. Agreed, it would be easy for XLN audio to write in some more code to allow it within the software. I think Addictive Drums could do with a makeover in the 'looks' department of the GUI as it does look dated somewhat. Love it though and sounds amazing and works really well and I prefer the simplicity of it compared to Superior Drummer. Though I havn't tried the latter, it looks more complex and takes 'GIGABYTES' of HD space from what I've heard due to the samples.
The one used in the 1970s was actually the 402 model. It was also to solve a problem of bringing back high-end character lost during overdubbing (see Fleetwood Mac’s Rumours). The 104 came out in the 1990s and it introduced the “Big Bottom” feature. Of course, the Vulture Culture actually went to 11 but that’s another story 😉
;) Good point. I could not remember the model of the original, but I know (and mentioned on this video) that the 'later' model had Big Bottom. I think the way I worded it in the video was that the original Aphex Exciter came out in the 70s and the later one introduced Big Bottom circuitry, which they had to as the competition started to add bass stuff so Aphex followed.
Thanks for this information. I am totally new to photography and just got Affinity Photos v2. I've been looking for a way to cull my photos and just downloaded Narrative Select and found out it doesn't export to Affinity. I am definitely using this method to cull and will create shortcuts for tagging to make the process faster. Thank you again for sharing this tip. Cheers!! UPDATE! I just tried this and it worked great. Since I am more focused on the pictures that will go through to Affinity for editing, I re-arranged my colours to have Green (Sure to edit) as CTRL 1, Yellow (Maybe) as CTRL 2. I left Red as CTRL 3 but I most likely won't use it as I'll just not tag that images I am sure won't be edited. Thank you again!!!
Any type of such processing also plays with phase, and definition might suffer. Use it, but use it with caution, one some tracks. In any case, use your ears.
Agreed, I grossly exaggerated the settings for the purposes of the video, in reality it would be very subtle to the point of being barely audible. I’ve always said that if you do A/B switching and it is obvious then there is way too much dialled in.
I had that 104 mark 2 until recently. This confirms that software can replace outboard rack mounts. It's bittersweet, as I loved those 19 inch attacks of fun.
Samuel, I'm not familiar with the BBE Sonic Maximiser, but just Googled it and read a few answers about what it does. One person says 'It re-eqs your signal and does some phase change on some frequencies. Basically it removes mids and emphasizes highs and lows. It's a tool to make your signal sound like car stereo after loudness button. ' So this gives me an idea and if this is accurate then, no, the Bus Exciter 104 works differently. I havn't heard the BBE so can't comment on how similar the final results would be compared to the Exciter.
Thanks for the great review, especially "How to Balance a Camera on a Tilt/Pan Head!" Have u ever used the upgraded version, in the same weight class from Libec, the H15? If so, plz comment. 😎😎
No, not used that. The payload of the H15 is 6.6lb, or there abouts, and it cost about £750 head alone so too much for what it is, in my opinion as there is no 'perfect balance' system on it like what Vinten tripods have. In my experience, Vinten Perfect Balance systems are the only tripod heads in the world that balance properly. Though the Libec TX-X I review here does a decent job, but I suspect that was because the camera/lens combo I had on it was a sweet spot in weight for this tripod. For the money of the H15 I'd rather go for a Vinten Vision Blue all day long.
If you're talking about using Analog Lab software with your Keylab you don't need the MiniFuse, just USB Keylab into your computer directly and use the computer's headphone socket - this is the easiest way. Otherwise, with MiniFuse change auto settings on your computer to select the MiniFuse as the audio input and outputs and plug headphones into MiniFuse.
GFX, very distort dynamic exposure color. you will seeing RGB add on top of black or white color. Hasselblad looking great natural and exposure of dynamic base color.
😊 looks great but fiscally not ideal decisions\bang for your buck. For example, modifications to my stand I did myself + did not pay premium price for Roland parts and or headphones, etc And by the way, I'm just a RU-vid/internet Craftsman with logic /understanding. I opted for the atx 150 headphone them, imo Way better. Performance/ price ratio I didn't care about the whole Roland theme. I also had the computer mounted to the stand as well as a apparatus for my phone to snap into and the only external stand I have is for the snare, all with the compact stand that came with the kdx17 [two crashes, one splash, 1 20-in Ride, 12-in? Or maybe it's 10-in China, two 14 crashes with no boom stands or symbol stands]
Move the cymbal directly in front. Put the module between the toms on the top wrung of the cage. If you tip it correctly it will not interfere with the toms. Worked for me.
I am a user who recently purchased the multi12. I was having trouble and was looking for a way to improve it when I came across this video. I watched the video, and it was very helpful as it detailed the advantages and disadvantages. As mentioned in the video, rapid tapping causes audio skipping, so if there are any settings that can improve this I would be grateful if you could let me know. Thank you in advance.
Yup, rapid beats definitely caused skipped hits and there was nothing anywhere in the settings that could fix this. For your info, I've also had the Alesis Strike MultiPad, which is better than this Yamaha and more up-to-date by a long way, so much so that Roland even copied the Alesis design with their new SPD-SX model (only the Roland is £300 more expensive, naturally), and the Alesis misses beats when played too fast also. I suspect it is just a thing with these pads, they can't keep up with hemidemisemiquavers, not even demisemiquavers. I've had 'finger midi pads' from two or three companies and they all do it too. Only fix is to play half the amount of beats and then copy/paste the beats in-between in your DAW, but this won't fix live performances of course.
@@tecraven Thank you for your detailed answer. You compared it with models from other manufacturers, which was very helpful. I'm glad I found this, as I hadn't seen anyone else providing such a calm analysis. It makes sense now. Thank you very much.
Is there a way to put it in the 'live recording/looping' mode that the LM-1/LM-2 had, where you can add/play different sounds each cycle and they get added to the beat when it re-loops? Or is there a setting in Ableton that can enable that? That's what I'm looking for workflow wise.
No way to do that, not sure about Ableton either as I use Logic. Given this is a VST the original hardware sequencer is rendered useless as this is now done in the DAW. I expect, the only way to really do it is to create a sequence of midi on a track in Ableton and then randomise them, or just cut/paste them as you want and just drag them out over 10 minutes...
@@michaell.8938 This is true. Didn't realise what you meant by 'shuffle mode' Dean, but sequencing and patterns etc are done in the DAW. Given this is a VST and is designed to be used in the DAW having the original hardware sequencer is rendered pointless.
Many thanks for this list of upgrades. This will be really helpful when my bank account recovers from that initial outlay! Any advice on pedal positioning for dual beater second pedal please? I find trying to fit it in with the snare and hi-hat stand comes out a choice between ease of use of the hi-hats, or ease of use of the 2nd pedal. Either causes a detrimental ergonomic impact on the other pedal.
You're welcome. Regarding duel-beater double-pedal. When I had one, well, I've had a few, I always positioned the remote pedal between the hi-hat pedal and the snare drum stand, in other words you move your left foot further left to use the hi-hat pedal and then you move your left foot in (to the right) to put on the remote pedal for the double-kick. You might have to turn the snare stand (if you use one, if you rack-mount snare this won't be an issue) to get the feet positioned in such a way that it can fit.
@ 2:05 🤣😂Thanks for the first laugh of the day. “Muffle the low frequencies”😂🤣 So they mean there is a lack of high mid / treble in the bass… The relevant response would be to adjust the volume balance between the sub and the main speakers. “I just had to laugh” JL I think there are two main points concerning placement. One being the phase alignment in the overlapping frequencies. Move it around, trial and error. Be careful to asses the result from your main listening position. The best placement being where it sounds the best (cleanest, phase wise). The other one being the positioning of the sub. If you place it under/inside a “table” you risk creating a second outer enclosure, with its own resonant frequencies / room modes. Subs are free ranging species. They don’t like to be boxed in😉 Proximity to a wall/ walls, will affect the volume level. Anyway, thanks for the well presented info. This one seems like the perfect companion to my Genelec M040’s. And at a nice price.
@Tec Raven, thanks great ideas. Do you know where could I find the drum rack parts, in particular that cover plug from cymbal stand on which the drum module would be mounted on? Seems impossible to find this essential part.
I contacted Roland spares department to get a few extra bits and I cut some parts off a spare frame I had. Roland Drum Racks come up used on eBay all the time and they often go for as little as £95, which could be cheaper than buying a few new parts from Roland.
Thank you for the pedal review. The store doesn't have all the pedals in stock, and ordering them only to return them later (disassembling and repacking) is not very appealing. Therefore, such reviews are excellent. One clarification regarding Dave Weckl. He plays the DFP9500C model, not the DFP8500C (he only uses beaters from the 8-series). At least, that’s the information on his website, and Weckl mentioned in his interview that he plays the 9500C. A question for you: your shoe size is 10.5 - which type of shoes is this size for? For instance, a size 10.5 in Adidas sneakers and a 10.5 in dress shoes are completely different (with a difference of about 2.5 sizes). If your shoe size were 7 (dress shoes), wouldn’t the board of the Yamaha 9500C be too short? Thank you.
Hi, Bagi0. Ok, Dave Weckl plays the 9500C, but he takes the chain off and puts a strap on instead. Not sure if you know, but the 8500C has a longer footboard than the 9500C, even though the latter is more expensive as you can adjust the beater angle and pedal board height independently so what I did was I bought both and I swapped the bottom sections over so I ended up with an 8500C longer board on the 9500C mechanism. Then I sold those two pedals and bought the Tama Dana-Sync instead, which is smoother than any Yamaha pedal I've ever played and has a footboard that is about an inch longer than the 8500C. I'm size 11 UK shoe size and in the UK 11 is 11, be it trainers or dress shoe, and I have both ;) The Dana-Sync is the longest board in the world on any pedal, nothing out there is as long.
Ok, the typing stand, I kind of modified it. It is a regular 'Laptop' stand, but I took an hacksaw and cut the front section off as it was too deep. This is it this (notice two front parts that I cut off with hacksaw): amzn.to/4bT72yV The songmics stand I have here is this one, but, again, I took a small saw and cut the feet shorter and then stuck little rubber feet on four corners to stop it scratching my desk, but they don't do it anymore: amzn.to/4dOI3id But, here is one that they still make, though a little different: amzn.to/3wQsplw And here is something similar: amzn.to/3wMizRP If you go onto Amazon and type in 'Computer desk stand' you'll see lots of similar ones too. I cut my computer desk stand down as I found tilting my neck up, even a little, gave me neck ache. Remember, your eyes are supposed to be level with 1/3rd of the way down the screen from the top with your head an neck straight, as I am in this video. Hope this post helps you out.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this in more depth than a lot of others appear to want to do. I dont understand them and although i have just purchased the package i tend to use it in designer more so. Now i have to work it all out as to how i export to others so they can use it on their websites.
I have another Affinity Photo video that will help with your exporting of images. 25:26 into this video I explain exporting and settings ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-of2LBuwHiTo.htmlsi=C5AWDsgfYxHcrSjT
Great video, but I need help please. When I use the QR Code the popup for the address doesn't show up. I can draw the QR Code but I can't assign an address to it. Please help I know it's some small setting somewhere but can't figure out where
I’m not 100% sure I understand what you mean, I explain quite clearly how to assign a URL address to the QR code in Affinity Photo 2 at 3:18 into the video.
So sorry. I bought them at the same time that I did this review about two years ago and there is no brand on them. I am sure I bought them from Argos in the UK.
Great review! For someone on a budget, these are excellent tbh. I bought the Eris 4.5BT speakers initially, on their own. Even on their own they are half decent speakers with decent bass response, and for the price, fantastic. I just added the sub woofer last week, really excellent sound from the whole system now, punchy bass and elevates the entire setup as expected. Mainly use them for music listening this last week, but going to try them for some home music production any day now. I'm really impressed with their performance, for what are essentially cheap speakers/sub. If you're on a tight budget (like me) you could do much, much worse.
